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rest his guts posted:I mean if you just went for it you’d get it. You’re nowhere near full extension I cheated and did this  Happy to get it, but I wanna do it 'properly' - I'm just not sure how long I have until it resets.Brought both feet up, dropped the left knee and just topped out. Sharks Eat Bear posted:Overall it looks like you still need to work on generating movement from your lower body/hips. You climb pretty square, which isn’t bad in itself, but on this climb it looks like there are a lot of opportunities to turn your hip into the wall and flag your opposite foot out. This will generate movement, extend your reach, and reduce load on you arms/fingers. I know I've definitely got a ton of room to improve, although I don't fully understand what is meant when people say "square" in this context? And while I haven't really tried flagging much on this problem, it doesn't really feel like one that 'needs' it. I'll have to experiment on it more 
Sab669 fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Sep 1, 2019 |
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Sep 1, 2019 02:03
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Sab669 posted:I know I've definitely got a ton of room to improve, although I don't fully understand what is meant when people say "square" in this context? And while I haven't really tried flagging much on this problem, it doesn't really feel like one that 'needs' it. I'll have to experiment on it more IMO there isn’t a problem in the world that doesn’t benefit from a little flagging. As you develop the technique I think you’ll be surprised at how often it’s applicable Re: hip position — this video gives a very brief example, on a very steep wall. First one is climbing square (but still with good movement initiation in the hips). I think you could find a lot more video and discussion if you google “climbing hips square” or something like that. https://youtu.be/QF0OxJk1xs4
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Sep 1, 2019 14:58
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Sab669 posted:I cheated and did this Have some Neil Gresham's masterclass: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4TnitXGxkM Flagging is really helpful with this technique because you can use your flagged leg to generate the rotation you need.
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Sep 1, 2019 20:29
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I have watched the series before and I do use the technique on other problems, guess I just wasn't necessarily aware of how 'universal' it is. But yea I also watched it only like a month after I started climbing; maybe I should watch it again.
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Sep 1, 2019 21:19
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Anyone ever used a methenamine liquid solution before? I'm in a country where I haven't been able to find rhino skin or antihydral, but sweaty hands been getting to me. I can get methenamine liquid solutions easily though, but no creams. Would it still work as well like that?
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Sep 3, 2019 15:35
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BrainDance posted:Anyone ever used a methenamine liquid solution before? I'm in a country where I haven't been able to find rhino skin or antihydral, but sweaty hands been getting to me. I can get methenamine liquid solutions easily though, but no creams. Would it still work as well like that? I haven't tried it, but from podcasts and talking to people I'd be careful with it, it's easy to make your skin too dry and end up with splits or pretty messed up skin. They also typically apply the creams with a toothpick or something so it only gets on the tips and not into the creases, which are already likely to split. Here's a podcast with the rhino skin guy where they talk a bunch about it: https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/justin-brown/
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Sep 3, 2019 17:21
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Way to go! Totally crushing. I am currently in a two week break, but I am skiing and did some 4th class rock/ice scrambling on Sunday.
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Sep 4, 2019 00:18
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M. Night Skymall posted:I haven't tried it, but from podcasts and talking to people I'd be careful with it, it's easy to make your skin too dry and end up with splits or pretty messed up skin. They also typically apply the creams with a toothpick or something so it only gets on the tips and not into the creases, which are already likely to split. Here's a podcast with the rhino skin guy where they talk a bunch about it: https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/justin-brown/ Yeah, that's why I'm a little worried about using this weird liquid with it instead of a cream that's got a reputation. But it's the only thing available here, and my hands sweat enough that it's causing injuries on its own. So, gotta try something I guess. All the stuff I can get is around 40% methenamine too, which seems high. But maybe it's different when it's a liquid?
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Sep 4, 2019 04:46
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BrainDance posted:Yeah, that's why I'm a little worried about using this weird liquid with it instead of a cream that's got a reputation. But it's the only thing available here, and my hands sweat enough that it's causing injuries on its own. So, gotta try something I guess. All the stuff I can get is around 40% methenamine too, which seems high. But maybe it's different when it's a liquid? I uh, don't think it's different in a liquid. I'd definitely try to dilute it and then mix it with a hand cream or something. Start small it's not like using too little at first is going to hurt you.
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Sep 4, 2019 18:14
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Some of the rhino products are sprayed or roller-applied liquids, I don't think the form is as important as the concentration. Start small and keep it out of your creases the first couple times you try it.
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Sep 5, 2019 02:51
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My climbing ability has gone downhill these past few weeks being so busy I can only climb once a week rather than a few times. Also I sort of burned out and felt stressed during my last outdoor climb in August. Had to be reminded of some basic techniques. Taking a breather I guess. Must be nice being a college or high school kid basically living next to a rockwall!
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Sep 7, 2019 19:43
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Mokelumne Trekka posted:Must be nice being a college or high school kid basically living next to a rockwall! This was definitely a huge part of it for me. I used to climb 4-5x a week because of my proximity to a gym and outdoor climbing. I’m lucky to get out once in a week now. poo poo sucks and my SO and I are starting to seriously look into moving almost exclusively for better climbing opportunities.
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Sep 8, 2019 00:21
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I got to do my first outdoor bouldering session with a friend today and holy poo poo it's so much more fun than going alone. Sent my first outdoor V2 which I was pleased to do, although it wasn't very hard at all. Someone there suggested I try this V4 (not me) and it was really really hard, but also felt very doable. Looking forward to going more, but it's very time consuming to do it more than once a month unfortunately :/
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Sep 8, 2019 20:21
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Methenamine stuff worked, I had dry hands and my fingers didn't fall off yet. Got some climbing done at Wanxian mountain in Henan, China.     Best climbing buddy ever  Nothing really hard or cool, but I was glad to finally get out again and start climbing outside after taking a long time off.
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Sep 10, 2019 02:15
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BrainDance posted:
I don't think you understand the definition of cool. That looks cool as hell
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Sep 10, 2019 02:23
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Yeah looks totally A+, would climb.
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Sep 10, 2019 03:10
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BrainDance posted:Methenamine stuff worked, I had dry hands and my fingers didn't fall off yet. That is awesome looking rock
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Sep 11, 2019 18:22
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Does anybody have any advice on climbing footwork-intensive dynos? I'm extremely bad at them. Particularly when one is forced to run on or jump off a foothold that is pushing one away from the direction one wants to go, such as this. And even more particularly when it's a low-texture surface. If the angle is bad, it feels like I have to angle my foot so that I'm hitting the surface with as much surface area as possible in order to gain enough traction to really push off with, but this forces my body in a direction that I don't want it to go. Hopefully I'm being clear.
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Sep 12, 2019 06:56
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Kasumeat posted:Does anybody have any advice on climbing footwork-intensive dynos? I'm extremely bad at them. Particularly when one is forced to run on or jump off a foothold that is pushing one away from the direction one wants to go, such as this. And even more particularly when it's a low-texture surface. If the angle is bad, it feels like I have to angle my foot so that I'm hitting the surface with as much surface area as possible in order to gain enough traction to really push off with, but this forces my body in a direction that I don't want it to go. Hopefully I'm being clear. That's not really climbing though it's parkour at best, the guy has running shoes on and doesn't even use his hands for anything. That aside, I guess if you want to get good at standing on angled bullshit you could do slab, but it probably won't actually improve your ability to do whatever that guy's doing. Honestly practicing parkour is going to give you more improvement for time than trying to practice it in a climbing gym unless your gym just sets endless problems like that, it's probably like climbing where the biggest improvement is practicing doing similar moves on a variety of different surfaces/angles until you've done so much different stuff that a "novel" move is similar enough to one you've practiced that you can just do it. Also probably going to get a lot better at jumping doing parkour than climbing. Even world cup boulders rarely get more than like two steps in a row before you have to do some swinging around with your hands, so I'm not sure why you want to be able to do it for climbing. The skill to run along volumes like that and the skill to say, plant on the first of those volumes and jump into a coordination dyno are pretty different in my opinion, because I can do (relatively easy) coordination dynos, but can't run on volumes for poo poo. If you want to learn to plant on an angled volume and jump I recommend doing it over..and over..and over.. It's nice because it doesn't take much out of you per attempt compared to most climbing, and it doesn't wear your hands out much typically so you can do it while you're resting for actual climbs.
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Sep 12, 2019 14:50
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I personally avoid running-start problems. I know some people like them but IMO they are gimmicky bullshit you will basically never do on actual rock; they don’t teach you good technique and the risk of injury when doing them is much higher.
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Sep 12, 2019 15:20
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Kasumeat posted:Does anybody have any advice on climbing footwork-intensive dynos? I'm extremely bad at them. Particularly when one is forced to run on or jump off a foothold that is pushing one away from the direction one wants to go, such as this. And even more particularly when it's a low-texture surface. If the angle is bad, it feels like I have to angle my foot so that I'm hitting the surface with as much surface area as possible in order to gain enough traction to really push off with, but this forces my body in a direction that I don't want it to go. Hopefully I'm being clear. often for problems like this your approach vector should be pretty hard directly into the wall so your momentum + the force you use to push up and off these volumes is approximately towards your target. if you approach it like you're just running across a bunch of flat platforms you're gonna push yourself off the wall M. Night Skymall posted:That's not really climbing though it's parkour at best, the guy has running shoes on and doesn't even use his hands for anything. That aside, I guess if you want to get good at standing on angled bullshit you could do slab, but it probably won't actually improve your ability to do whatever that guy's doing. Honestly practicing parkour is going to give you more improvement for time than trying to practice it in a climbing gym unless your gym just sets endless problems like that the video is explicitly "we a bunch of parkour dudes set parkour routes in a climbing gym" and im guessing theres no real gym that sets like six of those in a row
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Sep 12, 2019 21:38
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enraged_camel posted:I personally avoid running-start problems. I know some people like them but IMO they are gimmicky bullshit you will basically never do on actual rock; they don’t teach you good technique and the risk of injury when doing them is much higher. There's a V3 in Joshua Tree, where the only way to reach the start holds correctly is to do a running jump off a nearby rock going straight at it. So those kinds of problems do exist! I don't recommend them.
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Sep 12, 2019 22:13
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Verviticus posted:the video is explicitly "we a bunch of parkour dudes set parkour routes in a climbing gym" and im guessing theres no real gym that sets like six of those in a row I admit I didn't read the description of the video which says just that, I clicked on it planning to defend new school movement as something worth working on for indoor climbing, but yeah that's parkour guys doing parkour. We definitely get run on volume style problems set pretty often, not as much lately since they're obsessed with paddle dynos or some poo poo right now. But they recently set this one: https://www.instagram.com/p/B2CundMjNT-/
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Sep 12, 2019 22:17
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they’re fun as poo poo (at least in well set gyms) and look really cool
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Sep 12, 2019 22:17
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M. Night Skymall posted:I admit I didn't read the description of the video which says just that, I clicked on it planning to defend new school movement as something worth working on for indoor climbing, but yeah that's parkour guys doing parkour. We definitely get run on volume style problems set pretty often, not as much lately since they're obsessed with paddle dynos or some poo poo right now. But they recently set this one: https://www.instagram.com/p/B2CundMjNT-/ that one is cool as hell. i love problems where the solution is to literally fling yourself around by the arms directly into the wall
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Sep 12, 2019 22:19
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The guy in that clip at that timestamp that you're talking about is Jake Mason. He's a setter in my city, and he's very much a climber. That video is definitely them messing around in a gym, but he's certainly not a parkour guy. His instagram is here: https://www.instagram.com/jakesleepsnclimbs/ If you wanna see him do actual climbing. The other guys are parkour guys. I imagine they're the same ones that filmed this piece at my local gym: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrzAIFQ46Ws Tears In A Vial fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Sep 12, 2019 |
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Sep 12, 2019 22:39
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To be clear, I was using that video as an example of the type of movement I was struggling with. I haven't seen anything that absurd in a climbing gym. The example posted recently is a better example of something more typical of real setting, especially because it includes that element of changing from horizontal to vertical movement while running across badly angled footholds.Verviticus posted:often for problems like this your approach vector should be pretty hard directly into the wall so your momentum + the force you use to push up and off these volumes is approximately towards your target. if you approach it like you're just running across a bunch of flat platforms you're gonna push yourself off the wall So what you're saying is that it's not just a matter of getting your feet down at the right angle, but also "over"compensating by moving your body weight more towards the wall than might feel natural? That makes sense, I'll give that a try. That should also help give a little bit more hold when trying to jump off of low-friction surfaces. But how do you change your vector like that when you're already moving, such as you'd have to do in the example above?
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Sep 13, 2019 04:16
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yeah you're on the right track. i tend to think of it like, if my foot wasnt going to push me away from it, i'd probably just slam into the wall looney tunes style. and then the movement vector change comes from pushing off the holds with your legs. in all honesty, i dont really think too much about how my feet are situated when im running across triangle volumes any more than i need to just to make them stick its more dramatic and obvious with running starts than it is with the swinging hand starts but its the same principle either way Verviticus fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Sep 13, 2019 |
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Sep 13, 2019 07:14
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Coordination hand moves are so loving hard. Coordination in general, but there's something about having to retain independent control of one hand while flipping your other hand around to catch and latch simultaneously that will forever allude me I don't know why people get to uptight about parkour. Like sure, I avoid that poo poo too - but who cares if it isn't real climbing? It's pretty cool rest his guts fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Sep 13, 2019 |
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Sep 13, 2019 18:39
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rest his guts posted:Coordination hand moves are so loving hard. Coordination in general, but there's something about having to retain independent control of one hand while flipping your other hand around to catch and latch simultaneously that will forever allude me Think it depends on the gym. I would be pissed if they set up problems like that at my gym, where good setting is hard to come by, wall space is pretty limited, and resets don't happen as often as they should.
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Sep 13, 2019 19:13
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you might have good reasons to not want it set in your gym but there are still countless elitist snobs whining about it everywhere
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Sep 13, 2019 22:27
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Kasumeat posted:To be clear, I was using that video as an example of the type of movement I was struggling with. I haven't seen anything that absurd in a climbing gym. The example posted recently is a better example of something more typical of real setting, especially because it includes that element of changing from horizontal to vertical movement while running across badly angled footholds. If you think about the angle of your legs and push direction relative to the ground, on a flat surface you just have a straight right angle, but as you tilt the surface and close that angle, you have to compensate with your ankles (and foot direction) to keep your legs pushing straight up rather than away from the wall. And I guess one more thing if you haven’t thought about it is foot placement. Farther away from the wall is better otherwise your base will be too close in while your upper body is falling away from the wall. It’s something I suck with on balance-y climbs cause I tend to hug the wall, and I’m pretty wide so turning sideways forces me out a little more than the skinnier folks. rest his guts posted:Coordination hand moves are so loving hard. Coordination in general, but there's something about having to retain independent control of one hand while flipping your other hand around to catch and latch simultaneously that will forever allude me There’s one at my gym right now (triangle volumes of course) where you balance on two, lean over and reach to grab the edge of another with your right hand statically, jump up to grab a hold with your left, and as you swing/barn door around, stop yourself with your right hand on another volume to the right. I’ve only gotten as far as...attempting the jump and touching the hold like once
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Sep 13, 2019 22:59
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Verviticus posted:you might have good reasons to not want it set in your gym but there are still countless elitist snobs whining about it everywhere That seems loving crazy to me, my biggest problem with parkour is that I'd really like to try it out (in a controlled setting, not the classic "just throw yourself off walls" poo poo) and I don't know anywhere local. Feels like it would teach me at least some skills that I lack when it comes to climbing plus it looks really fun.
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Sep 13, 2019 23:48
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RabidWeasel posted:That seems loving crazy to me, my biggest problem with parkour is that I'd really like to try it out (in a controlled setting, not the classic "just throw yourself off walls" poo poo) and I don't know anywhere local. Feels like it would teach me at least some skills that I lack when it comes to climbing plus it looks really fun. Look at gymnastics gyms, there is usually a fair bit of overlap with parkour. Same if your area has a circus training center.
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Sep 14, 2019 19:50
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My harness is falling apart and I'm on the hunt for a new one, mostly for trad. Pref: * large square gear loops, pref a 5th in the back for "end of pitch"-stuff. * light & packable. i have a well padded harness already for route development * fixed leg loops and speed buckle waist * comfy for falling in Tried a few and liked the BD Solution Guide. You got any other suggestions?
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Sep 15, 2019 15:17
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If you can still find one, I really like the Petzl Calidris for trad climbing/bolting/lots of gear
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Sep 15, 2019 15:46
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tortilla_chip posted:If you can still find one, I really like the Petzl Calidris for trad climbing/bolting/lots of gear Thanks - That looks like quite the trad dad harness tho. I'm looking for something lighter!
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Sep 15, 2019 21:40
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I have a Solution Guide. It's good but I'm not sure it's $30 better than the regular Solution unless you are climbing outdoors a TON and really putting wear on your harness. People putting in two seasons a year at Indian Creek or something will appreciate the extra durability, it's not an issue for my weekend warrior level. I was excited for the 5th gear loop for multipitch trad but I find myself using it less than I expected. It is comfortable but so is the regular Solution.
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Sep 16, 2019 00:17
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gohuskies posted:I was excited for the 5th gear loop for multipitch trad but I find myself using it less than I expected. What about single pitch trad? My gear loops are crammed as is with a regular double rack with nuts and some micro pro. Would be great for me to get rid of the belay device, nut tool, prusik, anchor kit and other crap from the main loops and just leave those for pro. Two worries regarding a 5th loop for me are that I'll have a bunch of steel sitting right at my tail bone. Any ground fall will be a potential tail bone fracture. Second worry is that I normally clip my chalk bag to the tag line haul loop and that'd make it sit on top of all the anchor kit crap and might be harder to reach....
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Sep 16, 2019 11:21
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Sigmund Fraud posted:What about single pitch trad? My gear loops are crammed as is with a regular double rack with nuts and some micro pro. Would be great for me to get rid of the belay device, nut tool, prusik, anchor kit and other crap from the main loops and just leave those for pro. I can fit a double rack of .3-3 cams plus nuts on just the front two loops, and my slings and other stuff on the back two loops. It can be a tight fit and it might be a problem if I tried to bring double 4s or a 5 or 6, but it works. When I have climbed wide routes we usually make the follower carry the big cam under the one or two pitches where they are needed and then we shuffle around the rack to make it work. I'm not sure if the gear loops are wider than the regular Solution - they might be but I haven't seen that specifically mentioned anywhere.
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Sep 16, 2019 17:07
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