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Any suggestions for my second pair of shoes? I tried on and climbed in a pair of Vapor V's that fit pretty well but the heel was pretty farty due to being a bit loose, which surprised me, and I returned them. I have a fairly wide foot in general. Am I really having to balance downturned shoes for overhangy bouldery problems and a shoe good for vertical problems?
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Sep 16, 2019 22:21
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ShaneB posted:Any suggestions for my second pair of shoes? I tried on and climbed in a pair of Vapor V's that fit pretty well but the heel was pretty farty due to being a bit loose, which surprised me, and I returned them. I have a fairly wide foot in general. Am I really having to balance downturned shoes for overhangy bouldery problems and a shoe good for vertical problems? Butora Acros are great
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Sep 16, 2019 23:34
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Hot Diggity! posted:Butora Acros are great I was just about to suggest that. Solutions also seem like a common wide foot shoe
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Sep 17, 2019 03:51
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Reviews mention the wide heel which concerns me, because that was my fit issue with the Vapor V. I'll try them on!
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Sep 17, 2019 04:19
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ShaneB posted:Any suggestions for my second pair of shoes? I tried on and climbed in a pair of Vapor V's that fit pretty well but the heel was pretty farty due to being a bit loose, which surprised me, and I returned them. I have a fairly wide foot in general. Am I really having to balance downturned shoes for overhangy bouldery problems and a shoe good for vertical problems? I tried vapor v's and thought the murias were a better fit. A bit pricey but fit my foot better including the heel.
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Sep 17, 2019 07:14
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I wear EE or EEE width and have been really happy with the Scarpa Instinct VS. I tried the Vapor V and didn’t like the toe box fit as much; now that the Intincts are breaking in they are great, although I do take them off between routes.
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Sep 17, 2019 07:38
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ShaneB posted:Reviews mention the wide heel which concerns me, because that was my fit issue with the Vapor V. I'll try them on! Solution owner - I have a very wide foot and narrow heel. I’m not sure where the complaint about the heel comes from; sure, you don’t have any feeling, but compared to Skwamas, my shoe of choice, the heel is great. My biggest complaint about Solutions is that they never seem to break in. I size down about three sizes normally; with Solutions, 2.5. I think it’s because of all of the rubber. For edging and small holds, you’re never going to find a better toe than Solutions. They are the absolute worst slab shoe I’ve ever tried, however. I’d say try Skwamas - better all-around/gym shoe.
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Sep 17, 2019 16:12
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Been using the Futura lately and while the no-edge is a bit of an adjustment I like the shoes a lot
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Sep 17, 2019 16:18
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Scarpa furia/drago all day - makes solutions feel like rocks (not taking giant feet into account)
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Sep 17, 2019 21:06
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Ubiquitus posted:Scarpa furia/drago all day - makes solutions feel like rocks (not taking giant feet into account) I absolutely love my dragos, but I'm not sure they're the ideal second shoe. You can destroy a pair of dragos in like a couple of months if you're bad about dragging your toes on poo poo/slamming your foot into holds. Nothing beats them for sensitivity though, amazing shoes. I really want to try the Furia Air. ShaneB posted:Reviews mention the wide heel which concerns me, because that was my fit issue with the Vapor V. I'll try them on! For your second pair I'd just be aiming to find something that fits well that's maybe a little aggressive and not worry about much else. I don't have wide feet or anything but I really liked the narrow Butora Acros (the blue ones) and I think the orange ones are good for wider feet, some of the most comfortable aggressive shoes I've had. I think the reason a lot of people complain about the solution heel is it tends to be a lot of people's first aggressive shoe, and they just don't size it right, so the shoes stretch a bit/their foot gets used to curling into the shape and suddenly the heel is loose.
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Sep 17, 2019 21:26
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I mean I'd say a pair of shoes every 3-4 months assuming 3-4 sessions per week is pretty standard. I'd definitely try Dragos if anywhere locally carried them
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Sep 18, 2019 07:00
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I love my orange Butora Acros. Everyone's fit is different but they are real comfortable for me. I think I owned four pairs.
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Sep 18, 2019 16:52
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I had similar fit issues to what you mentioned with vapor vs and also liked the fit of tenaya ras as far as slightly-more-aggressive-but-not-really shoes with a wider toe just go try a bunch of stuff on tonight/this afternoon
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Sep 18, 2019 17:44
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I might need some shoe advice too. Been climbing around 2 months and I'm getting through about half of the V3s in my gym after a few attempts. I tried on the Scarpa Instinct VS tonight. I wear a 13 in my evolv defys but they feel a bit loose after climbing in them 3-4 times. The Scarpas were juuuuust comfortable enough to stand in without any pain and I felt like they encompassed my whole foot much better. I did get that shoe farting sound thing though. Do they stretch much at all? I was trying a 46 but I'm wondering if ordering a 45.5 might be worth it. The reason I'm even considering new shoes this early on is that I just do not trust the defys. I had a few guys from my gym watch my footwork and they said everything was fine (Mostly people climbing around V6 and above) but man I just feel like I can't get a good hold with the defys at all.
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Sep 18, 2019 23:53
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It’s possible it’s placebo; but even if it is, it sounds like you’re in a position to do something about it. If you feel like different shoes will help you climb better then they will. Discomfort, so long as we’re not talking severe, is a terrible metric to base a shoe purchase on. Most shoes over a certain price point will form to your foot over time - I size down like 3 sizes and they’re painful for awhile but you acclimate. Of course, like anything, your definition of severe discomfort is yours to make
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Sep 19, 2019 18:24
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I watched two dudes leading 11's last night, and one of them was wearing a fresh pair of my $100 newbie Scarpas. A reminder I don't need to go aggressive to somehow improve. My issues are in my endurance and technique!
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Sep 19, 2019 18:58
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I'm getting into top roping outside and have most of the gear I need except locking carabiners. I'd like to have around 10 of them. The best option I can figure right now is buying 3-4 packs of http://tinyurl.com/y5n9whd2 which would come out to around 100-120$ CAD. Is there a better deal available somewhere online? Thanks.
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Sep 19, 2019 19:06
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ShaneB posted:I watched two dudes leading 11's last night, and one of them was wearing a fresh pair of my $100 newbie Scarpas. A reminder I don't need to go aggressive to somehow improve. My issues are in my endurance and technique! Yeah man. Broken collar bone aside and hardly climbing this year. I usually lead 11+/12- in the gym in tenaya tanta's. Not exactly the most aggressive shoe in the world. Plus buying them at ET is like $85.
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Sep 19, 2019 21:28
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Colonel J posted:I'm getting into top roping outside and have most of the gear I need except locking carabiners. I'd like to have around 10 of them. The best option I can figure right now is buying 3-4 packs of http://tinyurl.com/y5n9whd2 which would come out to around 100-120$ CAD. Are you building anchors off rocks and trees?
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Sep 19, 2019 21:29
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On Terra Firma posted:I might need some shoe advice too. Been climbing around 2 months and I'm getting through about half of the V3s in my gym after a few attempts. I tried on the Scarpa Instinct VS tonight. I wear a 13 in my evolv defys but they feel a bit loose after climbing in them 3-4 times. The Scarpas were juuuuust comfortable enough to stand in without any pain and I felt like they encompassed my whole foot much better. I did get that shoe farting sound thing though. Do they stretch much at all? I was trying a 46 but I'm wondering if ordering a 45.5 might be worth it. Aggressive shoes should not be comfortable to stand in and a half size down for any climbing shoe is probably too large nevermind an aggressive shoe. Instincts do stretch so I'd try a 44 and a 44.5 It sounds like your trying to avoid fixing the actual issue though which is not trusting your feet. I find it hard to believe that the defy is not an adequate shoe for climbing in the V3 range.
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Sep 19, 2019 22:52
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asur posted:Aggressive shoes should not be comfortable to stand in and a half size down for any climbing shoe is probably too large nevermind an aggressive shoe. Counterpoint: wear shoes that fit and don't hurt.
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Sep 19, 2019 23:35
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Slimy Hog posted:Counterpoint: wear shoes that fit and don't hurt. Counterpoint: this is only good for a certain level of climbing, so you may as well condition yourself to wearing uncomfortable shoes if you can stomach it
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Sep 19, 2019 23:45
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spwrozek posted:Are you building anchors off rocks and trees? Yes.
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Sep 19, 2019 23:46
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Colonel J posted:Yes. Those should work then, it seems like $10 per locker is what they are starting to cost. You might look for a sale but also you want to climb. I would just pull the trigger. Not sure you need 10, 3 anchor points assuming webbing or cams, and two for the rope attachment over the lip of the rock on your cord. With trees you sometimes can anchor to them without any carabineers expert for below the master point for the rope. But if you have the cash better to be prepared I suppose. Where you climbing at? E: you might consider two steel carabineers for your rope connection. They will not wear fast and keep your rope in better shape. V: I don't think $10 BD lockers are being cheap. (What he linked) spwrozek fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Sep 20, 2019 |
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Sep 20, 2019 00:27
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I haven’t made it climbing outside but I do a lot of canyoneering, and I don’t cheap out on carabiners. Protective gear is not where you want to cut corners on material quality, fabrication or cost. Your life literally depends on it.
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Sep 20, 2019 00:28
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Slimy Hog posted:Counterpoint: wear shoes that fit and don't hurt. I am more in this mind for 90% of my climbing. My tanta's are the same as my shoe size... But I do have muira vs's that are tight as hell when I want to try hard and need precision.
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Sep 20, 2019 00:29
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spwrozek posted:Those should work then, it seems like $10 per locker is what they are starting to cost. You might look for a sale but also you want to climb. I would just pull the trigger. Not sure you need 10, 3 anchor points assuming webbing or cams, and two for the rope attachment over the lip of the rock on your cord. With trees you sometimes can anchor to them without any carabineers expert for below the master point for the rope. But if you have the cash better to be prepared I suppose. Sounds good, thanks. I'm in Montreal, so far I've made it to two places around here (Orford and Foret Ouareau). My friends have gear but I don't wanna depend on them. Also yeah, I'd rather have more just to be prepared.
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Sep 20, 2019 00:38
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Ubiquitus posted:Counterpoint: this is only good for a certain level of climbing, so you may as well condition yourself to wearing uncomfortable shoes if you can stomach it That makes sense. Personally I'd rather be comfy in my shoes and deal with discomfort later if need be. My current pair is pretty comfy but I need to take them off after ~45-60 mins. I'm also climbing at max v4-5 and I'm not really chasing grades right now
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Sep 20, 2019 02:59
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asur posted:Aggressive shoes should not be comfortable to stand in and a half size down for any climbing shoe is probably too large nevermind an aggressive shoe. Instincts do stretch so I'd try a 44 and a 44.5 I'd say the bit about not trusting my feet is fair. I'll try and do some drills next week and see where I'm at. Probably not easing myself in enough.
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Sep 20, 2019 03:43
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It can be hard to find slab problems in some gyms, but those are pretty good at brute forcing some footwork out of you.
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Sep 20, 2019 03:54
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Slimy Hog posted:Counterpoint: wear shoes that fit and don't hurt. I'd argue that the perfect fit for rock climbing is going to be uncomfortable in aggressive shoes, but it probably doesn't matter to most people. The bigger issue is that a lot of shoes stretch a huge amount such that you need to size down to something uncomfortable to get a decent fit post stretch.
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Sep 20, 2019 05:06
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Hot Diggity! posted:Been using the Futura lately and while the no-edge is a bit of an adjustment I like the shoes a lot I love the no-edge and feel like they're soft enough that you can size down to get a very snug fit. No-edge really gives confidence on tiny little chips and on smears, there's a much better sense of whether you're going to stick it or not versus a shoe like the Miura. I wear a size 42.5 in Futuras and most other La Sportiva shoes I've owned (Miura lace, Cobra Mythos). My street size is an 11.5 US. I have kind of low-volume feet, and a longer second toe with a narrow heel and I like the fit comfort a lot given the performance aspects. My next shoe will definitely be the Speedster or other no-edge.
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Sep 20, 2019 07:46
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My gym has been in the process of stripping ALL of the boulder walls in preparation for a competition they're hosting this Saturday. I haven't climbed since last Saturday because there's nothing up; this is the longest I've gone without climbing since I got into the sport back in April and it's killing me. On the bright side, 50 new problems to explore tomorrow! Suffering any sort of injury where you can't climb for weeks or even months sounds like the worst thing in the world to me now 
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Sep 20, 2019 16:19
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Sab669 posted:My gym has been in the process of stripping ALL of the boulder walls in preparation for a competition they're hosting this Saturday. I haven't climbed since last Saturday because there's nothing up; this is the longest I've gone without climbing since I got into the sport back in April and it's killing me. On the bright side, 50 new problems to explore tomorrow! Yeah man. I more or less lost the entire year so far. 5 months off for broken clavicle. Then just mountain biking/travel/life/work got in the way. Climbed in the gym maybe 15 times this year (for a cool $440....) and 2 days outside (for free!). Just had surgery to pull hardware out of the clavicle yesterday so realistically I will get back climbing October 1. Hopefully have the motivation to go to the gym. ET Golden/Englewood goons make me go to the gym!
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Sep 20, 2019 16:32
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That is so lovely dude. How'd you break it? I'm afraid that if something like that happens to me I'll lose interest entirely by the time I'm able to climb again. ADHD is lovely like that. Good luck 
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Sep 20, 2019 16:37
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Pretty much the same thing here, I've been bouldering steadily for a few weeks and had to take the week off because I rubbed a patch of skin completely raw on my heel doing a long hike with new shoes. I don't want to lose my callouses
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Sep 20, 2019 16:39
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Sab669 posted:That is so lovely dude. How'd you break it? I'm afraid that if something like that happens to me I'll lose interest entirely by the time I'm able to climb again. ADHD is lovely like that. Snowboarding. It is all good, had a good summer biking, went skiing in Argentina, still climbed a little. I think I will be back cranking this winter!
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Sep 20, 2019 16:41
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I've missed most of the summer due to nagging injuries, which sucks. But taking a lot of time off at least hopefully means everything is fully healed up.
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Sep 20, 2019 16:42
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I first started climbing in Feb. Wife wanted me to come play volleyball at an open gym. Broke my ankle fifteen minutes in and am still working on physical therapy. They have me the green light to climb again though so that's something at least.
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Sep 20, 2019 20:22
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*clears voice peremptorily* Yeah? Well I lost a month and a half due to the worst injury of all - declining mental health. But luckily, I fully availed myself of the ensuing manic upswing and return to tolerable depression/normalcy to lose the 20 pounds of candy-related fat I'd accumulated, and am down another 5 in preparation for bouldering season  I can feel some poo poo coming apart in my shoulder girdle and have since started to try and manage it with band-pull aparts. Don't think it's working. Anyone have a decent recovery protocol? rest his guts fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Sep 21, 2019 |
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Sep 21, 2019 00:21
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