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Colostomy Bag posted:Well your post is kind of confusing because you are saying fluid is spraying everywhere. Where is it coming from? Oh, that was a one time thing: I pumped the brakes when my drum brake cover was off and my shoes were not on the brake cylinder, so brake fluid sprayed out of the boot on the cylinder. Motronic posted:Then why were you bleeding anything? It's reasonable to crack the bleeders when retracting calipers, but not something I'd suggest to a first time home gamer, but it's not even clear if that's what you have done. Well, when the front brakes were done they let some fluid escape, and I was told "whelp we need to bleed the front brakes now because air has gotten in there." This was done. When the sponginess went up after bleeding, I assumed it was because the bleeding had been done improperly and there was still air in the lines. In the fix for the rear drums, that sponginess went up again, so I figured more air had gotten into the system via the brake cylinder, and its time leaking fluid because a boot had been removed. I'd also managed to remove the left rear brake bleeder screw, and that had remained off while I cleaned the screw up, and went to the shop for the right replacement screws (as I'd been to the shop already and had been given the wrong ones.) So in my mind, I thought I was dealing with lots of air in the brake lines. In retrospect, improper adjustment on the rear drum that I'd replaced could have been a thing, as I think one of the tension springs was improperly hooked up.
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Sep 23, 2019 15:07
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Hang on HANG ON......let's put the beginning and end of your post together:Nebakenezzer posted:Oh, that was a one time thing: I pumped the brakes when my drum brake cover was off and my shoes were not on the brake cylinder, so brake fluid sprayed out of the boot on the cylinder. You very well may need to replace the cylinders in the drums. But you ABSOLUTELY need to bleed them properly at a minimum. Then they probably need to be adjusted as well. As for the fronts, they also need to be bled. I feel like you're in a blind leading the blind situation here. Is bringing this to a shop for a bleed + check possible? Because I'd really, really suggest that based on how this story has developed. We're talking about your brakes here.
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Sep 23, 2019 15:21
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Yeah, I'm starting to get that feeling myself. I jumped headfirst into this because the front fix went well and I wanted to learn (I figure even if the civic is ultimately on its way out, I can at least learn a little more car fixin' stuff) but now there are several things in the mix that I only have a cursory understanding of.
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Sep 23, 2019 15:45
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Nebakenezzer posted:Oh, that was a one time thing: I pumped the brakes when my drum brake cover was off and my shoes were not on the brake cylinder, so brake fluid sprayed out of the boot on the cylinder. The piston got pushed out of the cylinder.
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Sep 23, 2019 15:49
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Basically this. Spongy brakes are of course no good but brakes are the main thing that will save your life and others around you in a panic stop. The wheel cylinder is probably shot since it sounds like it over-extended. In our land it looks like replacements are in the $10+ range a piece. When doing drums, take a pic before repair because all the spring locations get nuts. Then, like said, proper adjustment. And bleeding brakes isn't quite as easy as it looks. Buy twice the amount the brake fluid you think, and know the order.
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Sep 23, 2019 15:59
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:And bleeding brakes isn't quite as easy as it looks. Buy twice the amount the brake fluid you think, and know the order. lol, yes, I can tell you thread this is good advice Actually, here's a quick stupid question: there seems to be disagreement on the order? Some people start closest to the master brake cylinder then work out, other start the furthest away then work in. Does it matter? Colostomy Bag posted:Basically this. Spongy brakes are of course no good but brakes are the main thing that will save your life and others around you in a panic stop. Also wisdom, though I'm fortunate that the other drum is yet untouched, save for that bleeder screw. It makes for a good reference
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Sep 23, 2019 16:40
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Nebakenezzer posted:Actually, here's a quick stupid question: there seems to be disagreement on the order? Some people start closest to the master brake cylinder then work out, other start the furthest away then work in. Does it matter? Yes, it matters. Longest line first, always. Note: I didn't say furthest away. I said LONGEST LINE. This doesn't always mean the wheel the furthest away from the master. You need to actually know the line routing. Example, my retarded 80s german car routed both back lines from the master to the passenger side under the hood, then went to the back from there and then to each rear wheel. Making the overwhelmingly common (in correct hand drive cars) right rear being the longest line to making the left rear the longest.
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Sep 23, 2019 16:46
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Motronic posted:
The power of german engineering. Yeah, it's one of those "that depends" moments. But in most cases (excluding the above) right rear, left rear, right front, left front is for a lot of cases the standard. Pedal not to the floor, place a small block something underneath the pedal so it doesn't bottom out. Pump pump pump, hold, look for bubbles, rinse repeat.
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Sep 23, 2019 17:07
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Have not seen this mentioned that if you got brake fluid on the friction material for longer than just a little bit you will need to replace your shoes again.
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Sep 23, 2019 18:14
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Brake fluid is hella corrosive
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Sep 23, 2019 18:36
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Motronic posted:Note: I didn't say furthest away. I said LONGEST LINE. This doesn't always mean the wheel the furthest away from the master. You need to actually know the line routing. I did notice that! (nublet mechanic, pretty good at listening)  Thanks guys, I think I have an idea of what to do now, at least to get stuff capable of rolling to a mechanic.
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Sep 23, 2019 19:57
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2011 Ford Escape. The left rear turn signal and stop bulb is burning out quickly. It's a dual filiment bulb and only the bright one goes out. The bulb also looks scorched on the base near the bulb glass. I've replaced it like three times in 18 months. I haven't found any common complaints online for this car but did see a post suggesting a flasher is bad and giving it too much juice or blinking rapidly. I don't know about that, seems like it should use full power or nothing, how would the flasher overload it? Any other ideas or diagnostics to reccomend? I think I'll at least switch brands for next time and see if that works. These were Sylvania long lifes. I edited the brand I was certain they were Sylvania but honestly I can't remember. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Sep 25, 2019 |
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Sep 25, 2019 20:30
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Does it have replaceable sockets in the housing?
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Sep 25, 2019 20:55
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Colostomy Bag posted:Does it have replaceable sockets in the housing? It does. Anything I can do to test it first?
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Sep 25, 2019 21:23
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StormDrain posted:It does. Anything I can do to test it first? You will know it is shot when it is more brown than a Thanksgiving turkey.
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Sep 25, 2019 21:45
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Just want to apologize for my response. I deal with the random stuff and well....there you go.
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Sep 25, 2019 22:04
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StormDrain posted:2011 Ford Escape. The left rear turn signal and stop bulb is burning out quickly. It's a dual filiment bulb and only the bright one goes out. The bulb also looks scorched on the base near the bulb glass. I've replaced it like three times in 18 months. I haven't found any common complaints online for this car but did see a post suggesting a flasher is bad and giving it too much juice or blinking rapidly. I don't know about that, seems like it should use full power or nothing, how would the flasher overload it? Socket isn't making good contact. Sand the contacts and bend them inward a bit, or replace the socket. Sylvania LL generally lives up to their name; the OEM bulbs on last 3 cars were all Sylvania, and I pulled the original headlight bulbs (10+ years old) out of each of them, still working fine, to replace just because they were so old. Same with the taillight and turn signal bulbs. My current car still has front turn signals with a Sylvania LL part number and a date from 2005...
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Sep 25, 2019 22:36
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Thanks both of you. I'll take a look at the contacts sometime and see. It was bizzare to me that the old bulb looked burned and didn't work, the filament looks fine though. The new bulb went in tight and worked perfectly. I could see maybe it's arcing though and eventually burns the contact in the bulb.
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Sep 25, 2019 23:00
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StormDrain posted:Thanks both of you. I'll take a look at the contacts sometime and see. It was bizzare to me that the old bulb looked burned and didn't work, the filament looks fine though. The new bulb went in tight and worked perfectly. I could see maybe it's arcing though and eventually burns the contact in the bulb. Yeah, looks like new sockets are around $5-6 bucks from rock auto. And a disclaimer I'm not up on Ford Escape stuff. Some vehicles are grounded differently, through the housing, a harness, etc. At the end of the day we all want you to be safe, and not get a ticket.
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Sep 26, 2019 00:01
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And never mind. After hours of loving with it I finally destroyed the threads enough that I could yank it off. Elysium fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Sep 26, 2019 |
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Sep 26, 2019 00:44
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Elysium posted:So I tried to take one of my wheels off and somehow the interior threading stripped on the nut and or the lug. The lug itself is not spinning, the nut is about halfway off and spins but no longer moves forward or backward. The threads are just a circle holding it on now instead of letting it spiral off. How the gently caress do I get this thing off? Ive basically destroyed half the nut at this point but I cant seem to destroy it enough to get it off... Probably a nut splitter if its already damaged enough that you won't reuse it.
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Sep 26, 2019 00:53
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yeah, looks like new sockets are around $5-6 bucks from rock auto. And a disclaimer I'm not up on Ford Escape stuff. Some vehicles are grounded differently, through the housing, a harness, etc. Yes it's really putting a kink in my "only break one law at a time" rule.
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Sep 26, 2019 04:25
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    I have this Toyota Corolla II, a Japan-only version of the second generation Tercel. It has a 3A-SU engine, a dual-carburetor version of the 3A we got here in the states. I want to swap in a 4A-GE instead, which would give more power, get rid of carburator situation, and just be better to live with. However, the first and second generation Tercels are odd in that they have longitudinally mounted engines but are still FWD. 4AGEs were in FWD cars, but horizontally opposed. Longitudinally mounted ones were in RWD cars (besides the AW11 I guess). Anyone have any information or know where I could find it on if this swap has ever been done? A series engines are A series engines, and this Corolla II is cool as hell aesthetically. I want to keep it stock looking and am not interested in trying to make some sort of track monster, I really just want to toss the dual carbs and have a little power bump.
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Sep 26, 2019 10:09
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nitsuga posted:M18 x 2.5. Id be all over a freebie. Sorry to leave you hanging on this. I could only find one of them- I must have put them somewhere "safe" during the move last year. Unfortunately for you the only one I have seems to be m14x1.5, which is decidedly NOT the thread you're looking for.
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Sep 26, 2019 17:51
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My 2010 Mazda 3 with 2.0 and 5 spd, which hasn't given me any cause for alarm in the few weeks I've owned it, died at idle 3 times in the 5 mile drive from the dealership after having the dash replaced under a recall. From checking online it seems it may be caused by the battery being unplugged and losing the ECU settings and I should just calm down and maybe drive it hard on the way home?
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Sep 26, 2019 20:38
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glyph posted:Sorry to leave you hanging on this. I could only find one of them- I must have put them somewhere "safe" during the move last year. Unfortunately for you the only one I have seems to be m14x1.5, which is decidedly NOT the thread you're looking for. No worries. I picked up one from the dealership and it wasnt too steep.
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Sep 26, 2019 22:44
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KakerMix posted:I have this Toyota Corolla II, a Japan-only version of the second generation Tercel. It has a 3A-SU engine, a dual-carburetor version of the 3A we got here in the states. I can't speak for this specific swap but I have done 2 swaps on cars from that era. From a quick search, it looks like it should fit but make sure the lengths aren't too different first, might have to fab some mounts if the old ones don't mount to the new block. Also ensure that the old trans will mount to the new engine physically. You'll likely need a new exhaust manifold/downpipe as well. Unfortunately to convert to FI you may need a donor car as you'll need the ECU, harness, sensors, TB, distributor, possibly the cluster and fusebox, all the fuel parts, etc. Some cars of this era have their FI controller in the cluster so it would be worth finding out how the newer FI is set up. The complexity of the wiring varies from car to car, so getting a wiring diagram for a donor car and your car would help figure out how realistic this is. You may have to piggyback a donor fusebox over your existing one to handle FI related stuff as the original won't have room for the appropriate relays unless the box was also used for FI cars. Also make sure that the new FI system doesn't require a transmission input (applies only if the donor ECU came off a car with an electronic transmission) as yours is almost certainly a mechanically driven speedometer. It seems that even people converting carbs to FI within the 4A family don't recommend this swap due to difficulty. Maybe look to see if anyone has made a TBI conversion kit, those tend to be a lot easier to manage. I may be able to help with some general questions if you have any, either way it's a neat car. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Sep 26, 2019 |
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Sep 26, 2019 23:01
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Jack B Nimble posted:My 2010 Mazda 3 with 2.0 and 5 spd, which hasn't given me any cause for alarm in the few weeks I've owned it, died at idle 3 times in the 5 mile drive from the dealership after having the dash replaced under a recall. Call the dealer and get on record that this happened ASAP, make them fix it. You really should have just turned around after the second time and gone straight back to raise hell.
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Sep 26, 2019 23:06
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`Nemesis posted:Call the dealer and get on record that this happened ASAP, make them fix it. You really should have just turned around after the second time and gone straight back to raise hell. Ugh, you're exactly right. They're closed now but I called and left a voice mail, thank you. I'm driving it home now and it's not stalling, but there's a noticeable bottoming out of revs coming to a stop.
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Sep 27, 2019 00:36
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Long post but basically I don't know poo poo about poo poo with cars and I'm not sure if this is an easy fix (like a fuse) or not worth dealing with for a car that we hope to get rid of soon (like a new motors). I can usually figure things out with google but this one is tough. My wife's 2004 Toyota Camry's windows are all hosed up. The back right one won't roll up but that has been the case for 7+ years, but for the last year or two the other windows will get stuck rolling back up seemingly at random. It happens to both front windows and the back left window (since the other one won't roll down at all). Doesn't matter how long the car has been running, and it only happens maybe 10% of the time. Today, she rolled down her window for a drive-through and then it got stuck about halfway; it could still go down (but very slowly), but not up. She says today was the first time it happened to the driver window. Turning off the car and starting the car again has worked, but not usually. Typically we just have to wait awhile and maybe the window will go up a few inches, or all the way. Also I should note that the car battery just got tested a few months ago and is fine (allegedly).
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Sep 27, 2019 01:00
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Jack B Nimble posted:My 2010 Mazda 3 with 2.0 and 5 spd, which hasn't given me any cause for alarm in the few weeks I've owned it, died at idle 3 times in the 5 mile drive from the dealership after having the dash replaced under a recall. Unplugging the battery wouldn't do that.
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Sep 27, 2019 07:13
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Charles posted:Unplugging the battery wouldn't do that. It could if the throttle body is really, really dirty, and the ECU is having to re-learn it. My '06 Saturn has a funky idle for a bit anytime the battery gets disconnected (low idle with it bouncing a bit). Usually figures itself out after a few miles, though. Friend posted:My wife's 2004 Toyota Camry's windows are all hosed up. The back right one won't roll up but that has been the case for 7+ years, but for the last year or two the other windows will get stuck rolling back up seemingly at random. It happens to both front windows and the back left window (since the other one won't roll down at all). Doesn't matter how long the car has been running, and it only happens maybe 10% of the time. Today, she rolled down her window for a drive-through and then it got stuck about halfway; it could still go down (but very slowly), but not up. She says today was the first time it happened to the driver window. Has she tried a new master switch (the one in the driver's door)? I'd hit a junkyard and grab a used window switch for both the driver's door and the back right door. EVERYTHING runs back through the main switch before it goes out to the window motor. Though if they're moving slowly (consistently), that points more at the window regulator or motor.
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Sep 27, 2019 16:37
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Update on my idle problem, just in case anyone hated an unanswered car mystery. It seems that it was basically that: 1) the ecu did indeed have to relearn the idle and 2) the air idle control was quite dirty. But then 1) and 2) combined to 3) suck in quite a big piece of crud that caused the real problem. They're cleaning out the aic now; hopefully they're not just full of poo poo but honestly the guy seems nice and doesn't sound like he's incompetent. Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Sep 27, 2019 |
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Sep 27, 2019 20:11
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I've been having trouble with my Lancia's Solex PHH 35 carbs. The car starts and idles fine, but when getting on the throttle it floods pretty badly to the point where it's easy to stall. I took the airbox off and looking into the intakes, noticed that when I give it throttle, the rear of the two carbs shoots fuel vapour into the venturi, but the front one shoots an actual stream of liquid petrol in. I know very little about carbs but I'm pretty sure that's not right? What should I be looking at to fix this? I took the top off and inspected the floats, which seem fine, and that's about the extent of my carb-fixing abilities.
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Sep 27, 2019 20:55
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Jack B Nimble posted:Update on my idle problem, just in case anyone hated an unanswered car mystery. It seems that it was basically that: My CRV did this for weeks until I discovered I hadn't cinched down a clamp on the intake-to- throttle body connection. Boy did I feel dumb.
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Sep 28, 2019 02:37
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Beach Bum posted:My CRV did this for weeks until I discovered I hadn't cinched down a clamp on the intake-to- throttle body connection. Boy did I feel dumb. Amazes me this didn't trigger a MIL and a lean code.
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Sep 28, 2019 12:03
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Colostomy Bag posted:Amazes me this didn't trigger a MIL and a lean code. If it's an older CRV that didn't use a mass airflow sensor (B series engine instead of K series), it takes a LOT to trigger a lean code - it takes serious effort, even a disconnected brake booster hose won't trip a lean code most of the time. Instead they tend to get a bouncing idle when there's a lot of extra air, but the ECU is able to compensate pretty well. The bouncing is because the ECU won't let it idle above 1500 when warm (it's basically an idle rev limiter). If it's a K series, no idea - haven't owned or worked on a Honda new enough to have one.
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Sep 28, 2019 15:36
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Car: 2011 BMW 520d F11 I bought an OBD2 code scanner (AL539). I had a burnt out dipped light, and the cars board computer displayed the associated error message, yet an OBD2 scan showed no error codes (all live engine data displayed correctly, though). Am I misunderstanding what codes an OBD2 scanner shows, or should it have shown up?
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Sep 28, 2019 19:33
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You'd need a scanner that can pull OEM data for that. A generic OBD scanner won't see those codes.
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Sep 28, 2019 19:40
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Friend posted:Long post but basically I don't know poo poo about poo poo with cars and I'm not sure if this is an easy fix (like a fuse) or not worth dealing with for a car that we hope to get rid of soon (like a new motors). I can usually figure things out with google but this one is tough. lovely contacts with corrosion on them inside the switch perhaps? Isopropol alcohol or acetone and a Q-tip would be the first thing I'd try, but STR probably has a better idea in checking the master switch simplefish fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Sep 28, 2019 |
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Sep 28, 2019 21:20
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