|
You may want to expound on how you injured it, post a picture of the spot, and how long you've rested it/and or tried to rehab since the injury, and what type/intensity of pain you're in, as well as what movement hurts it.
Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Sep 21, 2019 |
#
?
Sep 21, 2019 00:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 18, 2024 10:08 |
|
|
Fair. I’ve been sort of breaking into a new grade, lots of limit bouldering involving very spanny,, lateral moves into smallish holds that, because they’re at my limit, I don’t contact with the most stabilized core or girdle. It feels like some stuff might be loose at the ‘acromion process of the scapula’ (??) / posterior delt. I’ve been pushing session length a little too long, and have not tried to rest it. Pain isn’t too severe, not even when I do the moves without proper tension, so I suppose I’m more in the market for prehab
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2019 01:10
|
|
|
I'm in a bit of a downturn as well. Got an A2 injury on my right hand back in July that's just now healing. Would probably have healed faster if I had taken a several week break but I kept climbing because of the few local meetups I run. My gym has a competition next month so I'm hoping to be at peak performance by then.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2019 03:25
|
|
|
Tried to do some bouldering tonight, made it about half an hour before my finger and hip hurt too much  Injuries suck! I am sorry for all y'all and your respective pains.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2019 04:38
|
|
|
Climbing is rough, I know a guy that's climbed like 2 months in the past two years. Play it safe and hang board anytime you get finger injuries  goons
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2019 05:55
|
|
|
spwrozek posted:Yeah man. I more or less lost the entire year so far. 5 months off for broken clavicle. Then just mountain biking/travel/life/work got in the way. Climbed in the gym maybe 15 times this year (for a cool $440....) and 2 days outside (for free!). Just had surgery to pull hardware out of the clavicle yesterday so realistically I will get back climbing October 1. Hopefully have the motivation to go to the gym. I’m out of town right now but work travel sucks and I really need to get back into a routine. Feel free to hit me up or I can let you know when we’ve got a plan.
|
|
#
?
Sep 21, 2019 06:43
|
|
|
i've been bouldering for three years now and i really need to start hangboarding or campus board training or something - my fingers are the weakest point of my climbing by a mile. i don't know where to begin. i currently have to travel a good 20 minutes each way to my gym, so going in on off-days is a real pain in the rear end. i climb 3-4 days a week for 2-3 hours a time; i'd say i average about 9-10 hours a week of climbing total am i going to get the best results by buying a fingerboard and using it on my off-days? should i replace 30 minutes a night with a program? add 30 mins a night of a program? i have literally no context or way to approach this and i do not know anyone that i'd trust to give me a good rigorous answer my general upper body strength and fitness are pretty good, my core strength is middling because of an injury. my pinch strength is fine, and my ability to hold crimps is comparatively zero
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2019 08:32
|
|
|
Fix your core strength and you won’t have so much weight on your fingers. Those muscles can take the beating lots more than your little finger muscles (and pulleys).
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2019 14:45
|
|
|
I do core 4-5 times a week. You don’t need to do much, but the intensity should be high. I do 3 sets of quarter levers to failure, 3 sets of toe-to-barx10, and one-arm lock offs at a fixed joint angle of 90-140 degrees (where you end up in that range is incidental) for 3 sets for 3-5 seconds no more than twice per week. You’d be surprised how much core stability is involved in that short window. Because they are so high-intensity, you cannot train them as often without risking injury. As for hanging for bouldering, I’ve gotten a lot of use out of weighted hangs on the 20mm edge. The benefit of weight is that you are training your stabilizers to take some of the load off of your fingers. I do 6 sets of 7-10 seconds (I favor 7) working up to max weight and train half-crimp exclusively. I’m a large man and would say that my finger strength is one of my strengths and I haven’t been climbing for very long; however, I have child-sized fingers. Starting to see 7s go, and 6s are going pretty consistently, so the holds are getting pretty small. A lot of the granite out here involves thin edges and I hold up well there, too. A typical session would go something like this: +40, +50, +60, 3x+70. I never exceed two per week. I’d hangboard the same day you climb for maximal recovery. If you have the means, buy a hangboard for home and use an old harness to hang weight off. Whether you do it before or after you climb has been shown to be pretty irrelevant - I prefer after. Alternatively, cut a limit bouldering day a little short (20 minutes or so) and hop onto the gym’s board. Ideally you’re not exceeding 2 hours of wall time on those high intensity days anyhow, but I’m guilty of overclimbing every session so idk. I find that squeezing in one core exercise in that three minute rear window to be an efficient use of rest time. Lastly, you should start projecting crimp climbs that are at your limit. Take 20-30 minutes of 4-15 attempts (the longer you go, the more rest. Ideally a minute rest per move) and try as hard as you can. Quality over quantity. e: Paul Corsaro from The Power Company gave me this hangboard protocol, and Tyler Nelson from C4HP uses a nearly identical one. I’ve spent a lot of time learning about this stuff, and would argue that these two, along with Will Anglin from Tension and Steve Bechtel are the best climbing-specific trainers in the business. FWIW, for bouldering specifically, all adhere to the ‘keep it short and simple’ principle. rest his guts fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Sep 22, 2019 |
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2019 16:48
|
|
|
rest his guts posted:Fair. I’ve been sort of breaking into a new grade, lots of limit bouldering involving very spanny,, lateral moves into smallish holds that, because they’re at my limit, I don’t contact with the most stabilized core or girdle. It feels like some stuff might be loose at the ‘acromion process of the scapula’ (??) / posterior delt. These are a couple good articles on training healthy shoulders: http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/experience-story?cid=esther-smith-the-knowledge-quest http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/experience-story?cid=esther-smith-the-knowledge-quest-lesson-2-4
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2019 22:26
|
|
|
Have been top-roping for a few years (with the occasional injury break) but never had anyone who was potentially interested in leading and went regularly until a few months ago. With a new climbing partner who wanted to learn to lead, I finally got around to taking the local lead climbing class this weekend. I was a little skeptical, but it was awesome. It's surprisingly different from top rope, and the part I was the most worried about, lead falls, were basically non-issues. Finding good clipping stances and softening up my catches (my fat rear end is generally the heavier climber) are two things to work on pretty much right away, but wow is that fun. Went ahead and invested in a gym-oriented lead climbing rope, and can't wait to go again.
|
|
#
?
Sep 22, 2019 22:46
|
|
|
Your best bet is either find a local coach/trainer to get you started, or start reading a ton of training literature and devise your own plan once you’re familiar with the principles and options. Most people go the latter route, which is good if you can filter out the bad info re climbing training out there. I’d start with the books Rock Climbers Training Manual by the Anderson brothers, Training for Climbing by Hörst, and Logical Progression by Bechtel. Good breadth of approaches and should give you enough understanding to decide how you want to start. Other resources like Eva Lopez, Tyler Nelson, Barrows/Lattice, and others are good too, but imo better suited to more experienced hangboarders. I’ve tried protocols from basically all of the above and my take on general principles are: - hangboarding is a long game. Make decisions that will set you up for success on a time horizon in years, not weeks - when in doubt, err on the side of conservatism/less intensity/lower loads. Gains may be slower but better to avoid injuries at all costs. Easier said than done, it’s so tempting to chase PBs - similar to above, be your own strictest coach re: form. Finger and shoulder position often slumps before you let go. Your rep is done when your form gives, not when you let go. No matter what - don’t worry too much about the little differences btw protocols. Find a program that you can stick with (ie fits into your schedule, doesn’t bore you to death), do it a few times a week and after 3-6 months if you feel like you want to try something else, go ahead. If it feels like it’s working, stick with it! - don’t hangboard after an intense climbing workout. Do it while fresh and warmed up. A short HB sesh can be a great way to get you fingers fully warm before hard bouldering - listen to your body. If you’re exhausted and feel like a HB workout could push you over the edge but feel obligated to stick to your schedule, skip it Happy to post more or help with questions. Reddit r/climbharder is a good community too
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2019 15:00
|
|
|
 Grande Rouge (13a) at the Shoshone Lava Tubes
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2019 16:10
|
|
|
Way to be man. Very awesome
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2019 16:55
|
|
|
Sharks Eat Bear posted:- don’t hangboard after an intense climbing workout. Do it while fresh and warmed up. A short HB sesh can be a great way to get you fingers fully warm before hard bouldering Agreed with everything but this, potentially. What's the worry? From everything I've read, the current thinking is that before or after is fine. My coach also thinks that it's irrelevant. tortilla_chip posted:
Well done, man! Looks sick SwashedBuckles posted:These are a couple good articles on training healthy shoulders: Dope, thanks dude rest his guts fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Sep 23, 2019 |
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2019 16:56
|
|
|
Spent a week in Tuolumne Meadows and did the Matthes Crest Traverse (among a few things).   That bit of rock is really unbelievable.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2019 17:52
|
|
|
That is absolutely gorgeous
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2019 18:01
|
|
|
George H.W. oval office posted:That is absolutely gorgeous Thanks, I have a bunch more pics, I can add some later.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2019 18:11
|
|
|
rest his guts posted:Agreed with everything but this, potentially. What's the worry? From everything I've read, the current thinking is that before or after is fine. My coach also thinks that it's irrelevant. Generally speaking, if you have a high intensity climbing session followed by a high intensity hangboard session, it’s a risk of too much high intensity loads on the fingers. YMMV, maybe you are intentionally doing high intensity climbing and low intensity HB, or vice versa. But until you’re pretty seasoned on the HB (or training with a coach’ s guidance) it’s probably a good bet 80%+ of the time to save hangboarding for when you’re warm but fresh. As an addendum, I’m currently on an extended vacation that hasn’t had a climbing focus for about a month but will shift to a 3 week long sport climbing trip in Catalonia soon. I brought a portable Tension HB with me and have been experimenting with Tyler Nelson’s density hangs and recruitment pulls as described in his recent “Simplest” protocol article on TrainingBeta. I’ve only completed a few sessions but qualitatively it feels great, and hoping that the extra finger strength may offset the cumulative wine and food bloat from the last month of travel. I don’t have a link handy, but the article is a good read with a somewhat clickbaity and ironic title IMO. While I do think the exercises he described are excellently simple and could become my preferred HB routine if effective, the article itself is somewhat dense and could be hard to apply for a new HBer. Sharks Eat Bear fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Sep 23, 2019 |
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2019 21:34
|
|
|
Back to climbing after being away for 1.5 months moving my life 1000 miles across the country. I'm super weak and my technique is kinda sloppy but I'm happy to be back in the gym.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2019 22:53
|
|
|
Hell yeah. I had about a five year gap between several injuries (not climbing related) and the first time reaching for chalk reminded me of the scenes picking up dirt in Gladiator, even if I'm climbing v5/6 at my strongest.
|
|
#
?
Sep 23, 2019 23:34
|
|
|
Okay, some more pics from my recent trip in Tuolumne Meadows. There aren't really any climbing pics, because it was just me and my buddy either simul-climbing or soloing the whole time. But have some vistas!            
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2019 14:30
|
|
|
Looks fun man.
|
|
#
?
Sep 24, 2019 16:04
|
|
|
Following up on that discussion earlier about methenamine, I tried rhino skin's performance cream which is only about 4% methenamine and the results were not awesome for me. I don't really sweat a lot on my hands, but it's only 4% so I thought it might help a little without being overwhelming. Had one of my worst skin days ever, basically felt dry/tight and mildly painful the whole time I was climbing, and I had 2 tiny splits open although they healed over night fortunately so no serious harm done. Definitely never trying it on my hands again though, probably going to try it on my feet eventually but going to start slow. To be fair this was the 3rd time I'd tried it over the course of 2 weeks and the first two times were fine, so maybe I could manage it once a week, but it doesn't seem worth the risk unless you actually have particularly sweaty hands. Also it's impossible to find a pair of Dragos for less than MSRP, and then it's a special order if they even have my size, and no where local I can find to try the Furia Airs, blah. Spoiled by having unusually small feet so I can usually still find my size on close out shoes. I got a pair of Butora Acros and Eolv Shamans for 50% off, but it's so hard to go back to a stiffer shoe now.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2019 17:27
|
|
|
armorer posted:Okay, some more pics from my recent trip in Tuolumne Meadows. There aren't really any climbing pics, because it was just me and my buddy either simul-climbing or soloing the whole time. But have some vistas! That looks all kinds of awesome. Crest is best!
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2019 20:16
|
|
|
Endjinneer posted:That looks all kinds of awesome. Crest is best! That traverse was the main reason I booked the trip, and it didn't disappoint! We solo'd the first half, then roped up for the second half. If I were to do it again though, I'd go a lot lighter and probably solo everything past the wave, then bail. After that point the crest just isn't that tall anymore and it loses a lot of the magic.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2019 20:45
|
|
|
M. Night Skymall posted:Following up on that discussion earlier about methenamine, I tried rhino skin's performance cream which is only about 4% methenamine and the results were not awesome for me. I don't really sweat a lot on my hands, but it's only 4% so I thought it might help a little without being overwhelming. Had one of my worst skin days ever, basically felt dry/tight and mildly painful the whole time I was climbing, and I had 2 tiny splits open although they healed over night fortunately so no serious harm done. Definitely never trying it on my hands again though, probably going to try it on my feet eventually but going to start slow. To be fair this was the 3rd time I'd tried it over the course of 2 weeks and the first two times were fine, so maybe I could manage it once a week, but it doesn't seem worth the risk unless you actually have particularly sweaty hands. i apply it once every few days and its made a huge difference. if i apply it more than that, my hands get a little stiff feeling, but i havent had any skin damage come from it. if anything, its less painful to climb. it has like a 1-2 week lifespan so just apply it twice a week instead of three times i can actually grab a volume or a sloper without losing 100% of the chalk on my hands its great
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2019 22:04
|
|
|
Anyone at horseshoe hell this year? My brother in law is there at 24 hour again this year.
|
|
#
?
Sep 25, 2019 22:59
|
|
|
Quick nutrition question. I've been using rock climbing in addition to lifting weights 3 days a week (so basically one day of climbing then one of lifting) and I feel like I'm just dragging in my recovery between sessions. I know I need to up my calorie intake in order to compensate for the additional activity but I wasn't sure if there was a better way of doing that. I'm concerned that if I'm eating too much I'm going to wipe out whatever good I'm doing and if I'm eating too little I'm going to injure myself from not being able to properly recover. I'm 6"2, 205 lbs, and I had my body fat measured around 12-13% for reference. Any good pre-climbing snacks/meals someone would recommend? Usually drinking a protein shake after with some strawberries or bananas.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 20:42
|
|
|
On Terra Firma posted:Quick nutrition question. I've been using rock climbing in addition to lifting weights 3 days a week (so basically one day of climbing then one of lifting) and I feel like I'm just dragging in my recovery between sessions. I know I need to up my calorie intake in order to compensate for the additional activity but I wasn't sure if there was a better way of doing that. I'm concerned that if I'm eating too much I'm going to wipe out whatever good I'm doing and if I'm eating too little I'm going to injure myself from not being able to properly recover. Climbing/Lifting/Climbing/etc for the whole week? You might need extra calories but you also just need a few recovery days broski
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 22:33
|
|
|
On Terra Firma posted:Quick nutrition question. I've been using rock climbing in addition to lifting weights 3 days a week (so basically one day of climbing then one of lifting) and I feel like I'm just dragging in my recovery between sessions. I know I need to up my calorie intake in order to compensate for the additional activity but I wasn't sure if there was a better way of doing that. I'm concerned that if I'm eating too much I'm going to wipe out whatever good I'm doing and if I'm eating too little I'm going to injure myself from not being able to properly recover. You need to take actual rest days, or else you're going to get injured. Training makes you weak. Resting makes you strong.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2019 22:40
|
|
|
interrodactyl posted:You need to take actual rest days, or else you're going to get injured. Today was most definitely a rest day. When I got home last night I told my wife "Do not under any circumstances let me do anything tomorrow."
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2019 00:15
|
|
|
Idk how anyone can possibly answer that question unless you provide some goals.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2019 00:39
|
|
|
Ubiquitus posted:Idk how anyone can possibly answer that question unless you provide some goals. Just thought someone might have gone from lifting to climbing and would have some advice on how their nutrition needs changed. I used to bike a lot but the sustained energy to do that is nothing like climbing so I don't have a good frame of reference, especially considering my size and build compared to most climbers. Not looking for body transformation tips or anything.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2019 00:54
|
|
|
Local bouldering gym has a partnership with an adjacent brewery, and they offer limited free beer tickets for people who can on-sight a new "challenge" problem each time the wall is reset. Woohoo I won the last one!
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2019 06:35
|
|
|
Alpine climbing is 50% hiking 5 miles miles with trad gear, then staring wistfully at your project as the weather betrays you, then hiking back out. At least I got some altitude training in? 
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2019 02:05
|
|
|
remote control carnivore posted:Alpine climbing is 50% hiking 5 miles miles with trad gear, then staring wistfully at your project as the weather betrays you, then hiking back out. This, but the percentage is higher, and when you do climb you have to bring the pack up with you. Also, you're always thirsty because gently caress man, water is heavy.
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2019 03:00
|
|
|
Anyone here use kettlebells as a supplement? Could anyone post a climbing specific kettlebell sequence, w/ sets and reps?
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2019 18:52
|
|
|
remote control carnivore posted:Alpine climbing is 50% hiking 5 miles miles with trad gear, then staring wistfully at your project as the weather betrays you, then hiking back out. Finding satisfaction in alpine climbing is all about "alternative successes". "At least I got some altitude training in" is a good one. My favourites are: - It's good to find out that [gear item] works/didn't work - Now we know the walk-in we'll be a lot quicker next time - At least we weren't in the middle of it when that storm hit - It's reassuring to know we can still sort of do crevasse rescue - I've really learned a lot from today - There's some sort of cosmic balance of success and failure, so today actually makes our future chances much stronger - At least we understand how much more prepared we need to be next time
|
|
#
?
Sep 29, 2019 21:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 18, 2024 10:08 |
|
|
Endjinneer posted:Finding satisfaction in alpine climbing is all about "alternative successes". "At least I got some altitude training in" is a good one. My favourites are: "I had no idea I could rappel 2000 ft in solid white fog over the course of 48 hours with no food or water and still make safe, intelligent decisions despite my hands not working from the cramps."
|
|
#
?
Sep 30, 2019 00:54
|
|