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BJA posted:Just wondering if someone has a suggestion or idea. 2007 Mercury Mountaineer V8. My wife drives it in the winter, we haven't driven it since May or so, I figured the battery would be dead since health issues prevented me from running it over the summer, but when I tried to jump it with my truck it cranked no problem, but I had to crank it 5 or 6 times until it started. I let it run a few minutes, then shut it off and restarted it. No problem. This was Saturday. I decided to start it again today, dead battery, so I jumped it again, and again I had to crank it 5-6 times and then it finally kicked over. I think the battery is new last year, but it could still be bad, but any idea why it is taking so many cranks to start. It ran great all winter, no starting problems, turning right over, etc. the only thing that changed was letting it sit for the summer. Well the battery is probably hosed from being flat for a long time, but I think you need to either try charging the existing battery fully and then seeing how it runs, or replace the battery and also then charge that battery and see what happens. Standard automotive batteries do not handle being fully discharged well. Edit: also you're dealing with old gas, figure out the battery poo poo, drive it to a gas station and fill up, and then go take a nice ride around the countryside for a few hours. I bet things will be ok after that. `Nemesis fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Oct 19, 2019 |
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Oct 19, 2019 03:29
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Ghostpilot posted:I've just replaced my fuel pump assembly in my 2003 Ford Taurus (SES / FFV, VIN: 1FAFP552X3G138465 ) and performance has substantially improved. However, I do have some rough idling that I had before and a very small trace of it at speed. You need a new PCV hose. It probably cracked due to age. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2003,taurus,3.0l+v6+dohc,1415203,exhaust+&+emission,pcv+(positive+crankcase+ventilation)+hose,11784 Double check if you have the OHV or DOHC engine. VIN doesn't show which it is. edit: forum mangled the URL.
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Oct 19, 2019 03:33
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zharmad posted:You need a new PCV hose. It probably cracked due to age. Thanks! And it seems that I have an OHV engine (FFV Vulcan 3.0 OHV). Thank goodness it's a cheap & easy fix. Ghostpilot fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Oct 19, 2019 |
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Oct 19, 2019 03:45
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CornHolio posted:I am pretty sure I know the answer to this but I want a second opinion anyway. I went to check out my brother's 2006 Trailblazer with 201k miles because he's pretty sure it's not long for this world. He just bought a truck to replace it. Depends on how handy you are with engine swaps. It sounds like it can't even maintain an idle anymore, so it's pretty close to locking up. Those are reasonably nice smallish SUVs for that era of GM, and comfy... if it's in good shape and you have the tools, go ahead and slam a junkyard motor in. Otherwise send it to the yard.
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Oct 19, 2019 16:33
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I'll try to be short & sweet yet accurate while I bombard the internet with this question in the hope of quickly isolating the issue. My wife's got a '94 Lexus ES300 (that's been basically a complete headache since we picked it up, but she needed transportation, and most of the problems have been general wear issues). Awhile back, check engine light and O/D Off light started popping, intermittently at first, before the car completely shut down on her way to work one day. Had it towed back, checked it on the OBD II--P0753, shift solenoid A. Complete teardown and overhaul of the valve body ensued; replaced solenoids A and B, cleaned and replaced all the valve body gaskets, seals and O-rings, and replaced the transmission fluid--this is only important because other corners of the internet have suggested that dirty transmission fluid or an issue with the linkage could be at fault. Rust may also be an issue preventing a wire grounding out properly. Her daily commute is thirty miles, give or take. Ran perfectly fine first time taking it to work on Friday, but the lights came back on the return trip twice; first time she noticed they'd gone off after a stop, but they were back on by the time she got back home, and the car wouldn't go into low gear, which was the same issue as before. Check the code and it's popping P0753 again. Friend of mine (who did the work, I should mention) with a background in race garages (Comp Coupe Vipers, Miata Spec, others) and electrical engineering thinks it could be an issue with a harness or a ground somewhere that's making it throw the code. Since we've got the internet at our disposal, it makes sense to check and see if anyone else has run into the problem before he gets into full gremlin-hunting mode--especially since he's also working on an engine swap for a project of his and I'm not trying to eat all of his free time. Gambit from the X-Men fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Oct 19, 2019 |
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Oct 19, 2019 18:11
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What do you guys think of using a cheap mini VCI cable with possibly risky custom tech stream software on my 2016 Highlander? I want to see if I can change the security settings, ie alarm on/off, so I can possibly send to my sister so she can turn on the VIP security system on her 2016 Rav4. I was going to get a cheap 2 in 1 to keep it isolated in case of malware but wanted to know what you guys think. Is this a bad idea? EDIT: it'd cost over $200 to have a tech setup the alarm and it would be nice to have a dedicated computer to get access to my car's settings so it's not just for the alarm setup if it works. inkblottime fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Oct 19, 2019 |
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Oct 19, 2019 21:20
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STR posted:You should have Toyota long life coolant in it (pink or red normally), not Dexcool. Motronic posted:The sooner the better. So, if on the advice of a mechanic shop that probably didn't recognize my error in assuming my radiator fluid was dexcool, I drained the radiator and filled it and the reservoir with dexcool compatible fluid and have driven it about four hours since, what is there to be done now to rectify the situation? I have not noticed any symptoms of coolant issues up to this point EvenWorseOpinions fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Oct 19, 2019 |
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Oct 19, 2019 21:42
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In the continuing misadventures of my 2003 Ford Taurus 2003 Ford Taurus (SES / FFV / OHV, VIN: 1FAFP552X3G138465 ) Yesterday I replaced the fuel pump, and today I replaced the PCV valve elbow. Previously, on my old fuel pump, I'd get OHD2 code about a low fuel pressure rail, which made sense considering it was an original fuel pump that had a strainer filter full of sediment and a cracked PCV elbow. However now, I am experiencing high fuel pressure and am wondering how I should proceed from here.
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Oct 20, 2019 01:18
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I got a real stupid question for you all. I have a Toyota Corolla that I put studded snow tires on for heavy winter driving. This winter though (mid December) I have to make a drive from New Halpshire to Orlando Florida. I’m wondering if I could / should keep my studded winter tires on for this trip or keep my summer tires on and hope it’s not too bad of a winter until I hit Virginia?thanks all.
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Oct 20, 2019 01:45
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EvenWorseOpinions posted:So, if on the advice of a mechanic shop that probably didn't recognize my error in assuming my radiator fluid was dexcool, I drained the radiator and filled it and the reservoir with dexcool compatible fluid and have driven it about four hours since, what is there to be done now to rectify the situation? I have not noticed any symptoms of coolant issues up to this point To be conservative you flush it properly and refill with the correct coolant at the correct dilution. "properly" could heavily depend on what things look like coming out. If it's clean you may be fine, just flush with water a few times. If there are chunks we're into different level of advice.
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Oct 20, 2019 03:03
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Empress Brosephine posted:I got a real stupid question for you all. It's very likely that your studded tires are illegal in several states based on the month as you move south, and then totally not acceptable if they even thought to ever put laws on the books as you get further south. Running winter compound in florida temps isn't going to be very nice to those either. I'd put your summers back on.
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Oct 20, 2019 03:06
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Motronic posted:It's very likely that your studded tires are illegal in several states based on the month as you move south, and then totally not acceptable if they even thought to ever put laws on the books as you get further south. Get some chains though.
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Oct 20, 2019 03:20
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The NC Miata has a fan resistor that's notoriously hard to get to, on the back side of the heater/cabin fan housing right inside the firewall. Mine seems to have died and I can't get to it. One Miata.net member found where to drill through the firewall in the engine bay to get to it from that side and I might end up doing that. Thread here: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=670680 Can someone help me understand the consequences of punching a new hole on the firewall? Will the cabin be hotter and noisier? Do I need to worry about water or fumes? Can I use my regular cordless hand drill? Do I need a special bit? I assume I'd cut from there with a knockoff Dremel.
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Oct 20, 2019 03:46
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Ghostpilot posted:In the continuing misadventures of my 2003 Ford Taurus 2003 Ford Taurus (SES / FFV / OHV, VIN: 1FAFP552X3G138465 ) Try disconnecting your negative battery terminal for about 20 minutes and see if it clears. The ECU may be expecting lower fuel pressure from the failing pump and hasn't learned the average output of the new pump yet. Pulling the terminal will reset the ECU to factory defaults.
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Oct 20, 2019 04:21
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Where is a good place to start looking for a nonfunctioning horn in a '96 Starlet (think Paseo, Tercel)? I have checked the fuse with a multimeter and it is fine. I also removed the fuse entirely and started the car just to check - this also killed the hazards, which are on the same fuse, so I know it's not the fuse/box. I've had the dash apart to replace the factory speakers ages ago, but AFAIK this is a relatively new issue.
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Oct 20, 2019 04:31
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Is there a better company or way to sell a car quickly than something like Carvana or CarMax or WeBuyAnyCar? A relative is trying to sell a car before they have to pay another year of registration and they don't want to deal with hoping they can sell it quickly on craigslist or whatever. The car in question is a 2012 Prius so all three of the above sites seem interested in the 7500-8k range which is less than a private sale but they're just looking to make the car go fast.
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Oct 20, 2019 04:34
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Empress Brosephine posted:I got a real stupid question for you all. You should change your tires before you go south.
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Oct 20, 2019 05:04
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Beach Bum posted:You should change your tires before you go south. Yeah, studs are illegal in most of the states, and winter tires are made of a very soft compound that will wear quite quickly in warm weather. Drive south on the summers. Whether or not you can make it to mid-December in NH with them is another matter. You may need to make two swaps.
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Oct 20, 2019 05:11
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Rexxed posted:Is there a better company or way to sell a car quickly than something like Carvana or CarMax or WeBuyAnyCar? A relative is trying to sell a car before they have to pay another year of registration and they don't want to deal with hoping they can sell it quickly on craigslist or whatever. The car in question is a 2012 Prius so all three of the above sites seem interested in the 7500-8k range which is less than a private sale but they're just looking to make the car go fast. I totally understand the appeal of a low-hassle sale, but does your relative live near a state border, or is the registration non-transferable or something? My assumption is the remaining value of registration is to a large extent going to be baked in to a car's value.
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Oct 20, 2019 05:12
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I totally understand the appeal of a low-hassle sale, but does your relative live near a state border, or is the registration non-transferable or something? My assumption is the remaining value of registration is to a large extent going to be baked in to a car's value. He's just not wanting to pay for the next quarter of insurance and registration at the DMV. He should've sold it two years ago when the original owner died but just didn't and doesn't want to spend any more on it.
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Oct 20, 2019 05:18
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I totally understand the appeal of a low-hassle sale, but does your relative live near a state border, or is the registration non-transferable or something? My assumption is the remaining value of registration is to a large extent going to be baked in to a car's value. There are states where the registration is transferred? I assumed it was a lost cost.
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Oct 20, 2019 05:35
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EvenWorseOpinions posted:So, if on the advice of a mechanic shop that probably didn't recognize my error in assuming my radiator fluid was dexcool, I drained the radiator and filled it and the reservoir with dexcool compatible fluid and have driven it about four hours since, what is there to be done now to rectify the situation? I have not noticed any symptoms of coolant issues up to this point Not drain, flush the system entirely (you can flush it with water, the important thing is to get whatever mix you have in there completely out). And at this point you have no idea what's in there. You'll need to disconnect the lower radiator hose at the radiator to get a decent chance of draining the engine. Dexcool does not play nice with any amount of other coolant types; it's its own special snowflake when it comes to long life coolants.
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Oct 20, 2019 09:49
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Thanks for the advice all I appreciate it. I might just do the two swaps although I like that idea about the chains.
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Oct 20, 2019 11:18
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Where is a good place to start looking for a nonfunctioning horn in a '96 Starlet (think Paseo, Tercel)? The horn? The main horn? They're usually located up around the radiator support somewhere. You should see it when you open the hood, hanging in front of the radiator.
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Oct 20, 2019 14:48
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Ghostpilot posted:However now, I am experiencing high fuel pressure and am wondering how I should proceed from here. What code is it setting? Does it have a vacuum-referenced fuel pressure regulator? If you somehow disconnected it while repairing the PCV leak, it would default to its highest setting in the absence of manifold vacuum. blk posted:Can someone help me understand the consequences of punching a new hole on the firewall? Will the cabin be hotter and noisier? Do I need to worry about water or fumes? Yes, you can use a regular cordless drill, just make sure you have a decently sharp bit in it. If it's got a selectable gearbox use the slow speed. You can get rubber grommets to plug up holes like that, though I'd try to keep the hole as close to circular as you can manage. StormDrain posted:There are states where the registration is transferred? I assumed it was a lost cost. Same. Plates stay with the car in some states but I don't think the registration time does in most areas. Here in AZ the seller can get a refund for the unused time. STR posted:Not drain, flush the system entirely (you can flush it with water, the important thing is to get whatever mix you have in there completely out). And at this point you have no idea what's in there. You'll need to disconnect the lower radiator hose at the radiator to get a decent chance of draining the engine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s--5ft5YiHg PainterofCrap posted:The horn? The main horn? Yeah they're usually kind of obvious. I'd start at the relay, personally - unplug it and jumper the appropriate ports and see what happens. If it honks then you know the horn itself and the high current wiring is all good, so the issue would either be in the relay, the horn switch, or the wiring between the two.
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Oct 20, 2019 18:09
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Motronic posted:To be conservative you flush it properly and refill with the correct coolant at the correct dilution. STR posted:Not drain, flush the system entirely (you can flush it with water, the important thing is to get whatever mix you have in there completely out). And at this point you have no idea what's in there. You'll need to disconnect the lower radiator hose at the radiator to get a decent chance of draining the engine. I didn't use brand name dexcool, but when we're talking about 'dexcool compatible' coolants I'm assuming those are dexcool for all intents and purposes? Also, if the coolant circuit becomes gummed up, are temp probes usually in a location in the system where they're accurately going to show that the engine is getting hot or is there the possibility that it'll just be showing temp of stagnant coolant somewhere? I am going to flush it at some point, it's a question of if it can be deferred until I can do it myself in a few weeks or if it is a big enough concern that I should pay for a shop to do it in the near future. If I can wait to do it myself that would be preferred, but it would mean a couple weeks' wait and driving two hours at highway speeds to get to a garage, and I really don't want to risk my engine. Consensus is probably just to get it in and get it flushed?
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Oct 20, 2019 19:28
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EvenWorseOpinions posted:I didn't use brand name dexcool, but when we're talking about 'dexcool compatible' coolants I'm assuming those are dexcool for all intents and purposes? Also, if the coolant circuit becomes gummed up, are temp probes usually in a location in the system where they're accurately going to show that the engine is getting hot or is there the possibility that it'll just be showing temp of stagnant coolant somewhere? We can't answer any of these questions without being in front of your car with the exact bottle of coolant you used. If you want to make sure your don't ruin your car get the work done now.
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Oct 20, 2019 20:02
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Looking at a 2000 Tundra 4x4 tomorrow that I saw on the side of the road. 136k on it, auto. Beyond that I know nothing. Anything in particular I Really need to focus on when checking this one out? I knew a little of what to check for in the similar era tacomas but hadn't looked at Tundras until this one was parked near me at a pretty reasonable price.
DeesGrandpa fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Oct 21, 2019 |
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Oct 21, 2019 04:35
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Motronic posted:We can't answer any of these questions without being in front of your car with the exact bottle of coolant you used. Well I can give you the exact bottle of coolant. It does not specifically list compatibility with Toyota, so I'll just call a shop tomorrow
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Oct 21, 2019 06:48
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Yeah that's essentially DexCool for the purposes of this discussion. You can get a DIY flushing kit where you splice in a hose tee and just hook up a garden hose (assuming you're somewhere that you can use an outside hose), but you need to fill it with distilled water and coolant afterwards. Otherwise it's probably easiest to get a shop to do it. So long as there's coolant in the system and the coolant is moving, the gauge should work fine. It's not going to gel up immediately (especially if you drive it every day), but you want to change it as soon as reasonably possible. If you DIY, I'd suggest using Zerex Asian Formula (red, not blue). If you want to spend the extra money, get genuine Toyota long life coolant, but the Zerex stuff is fine. You just need to get that DexShit out. If a shop does it, just ask them what coolant is going in, so you can make sure to use the proper coolant for topoffs later (not all universal coolant is really universal....).
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Oct 21, 2019 07:04
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DeesGrandpa posted:Looking at a 2000 Tundra 4x4 tomorrow that I saw on the side of the road. 136k on it, auto. Beyond that I know nothing. Anything in particular I Really need to focus on when checking this one out? I knew a little of what to check for in the similar era tacomas but hadn't looked at Tundras until this one was parked near me at a pretty reasonable price. My sister impulse-bought an '02 4Runner. Similar chassis. I had fun going through it. The underside looked like hell, especially the underslung spare. Rust. Check the underbody thoroughly. Bring a hammer & see if the seller will let you tap for deep rot. Some surface rust (everywhere!) is not a problem. The deepest, nastiest rust may be on the brush guards/plates, which can be replaced (or discarded, if you're staying on pavement). Pay close attention to the spring and arm (control & stabilizer) perches. The 4Runner of that generation had a known issue with the rear axle seals; they leak when worn, causing gunk to congeal in the drum brakes, making them stick. It manifests itself as an apparent transmission issue: in colder weather, when moving from a stopped position, the truck'll stick, requiring a more-than-normal application of throttle before it breaks loose. Replacing the rear seals is a PITA, but do-able in an afternoon.
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Oct 21, 2019 13:29
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Empress Brosephine posted:Thanks for the advice all I appreciate it. I might just do the two swaps although I like that idea about the chains. This looks like a decent resource to check any chain-specific regulations in states you're going through.
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Oct 21, 2019 13:53
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PainterofCrap posted:My sister impulse-bought an '02 4Runner. Similar chassis. I had fun going through it. The underside looked like hell, especially the underslung spare. Were those era Toyotas not also the ones that had severe frame rust issues? THough, I suppose if one survived this long, it either didn't have the problem, or had a new frame installed.
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Oct 21, 2019 22:10
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wesleywillis posted:Were those era Toyotas not also the ones that had severe frame rust issues? The very same. She got lucky; the frame is still sound, though it was fun wire-wheeling & treating as much as possible with rust inhibitor, without removing the chassis from the frame. She spent most of the summer trekking it around the country - from Philadelphia to Seattle, and all points in between - without any issues.
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Oct 21, 2019 22:45
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Oct 22, 2019 01:01
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Got the tundra. Frame is good, everything else seems good, and the price was very right. Pickups are drat fun.
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Oct 22, 2019 01:18
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DeesGrandpa posted:Got the tundra. Frame is good, everything else seems good, and the price was very right. Pickups are drat fun. Hey, you want pick something up for me? I’m moving next week too if you’re not busy.
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Oct 22, 2019 02:43
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nitsuga posted:Hey, you want pick something up for me? I’m moving next week too if you’re not busy. Sorry buddy my mother's cousin's brother-in-law is moving then and I already said i'd help, otherwise I'd be right there, honest
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Oct 22, 2019 08:55
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Hopefully someone here can help me diagnose a problem. I have a 2010 Kia Forte that has been an absolute trooper. 140k miles. Temperatures here havent between below 70 degree in months. This morning (it's 55 degrees out) I start the car up. Ignition is fine but then the engine keeps jumping up and down between 500-2000 rpm. Eventually the engine dies. I start it up again, and same thing. If I immediately shift to "drive" I can get going until I take my foot off the accelerator, idle RPM drops again and engine dies. I decide to see if it may be a fuel pump issue so I floor the accelerator in neutral. RPM tops out at about 4000. Go through this a few times and finally the car starts working normally, engine is hitting 6000+ RPM possible. Drive it for 20 miles with no additional issues. Another weird thing is that the clock got reset, which only happens if the battery dies. But the battery is fine, and only a few months old. Suspect it might be the idle air control valve, but the associated electrical issue is where I'm stumped. Thoughts?
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Oct 22, 2019 15:04
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oxsnard posted:Hopefully someone here can help me diagnose a problem. I have a 2010 Kia Forte that has been an absolute trooper. 140k miles. Temperatures here havent between below 70 degree in months. This morning (it's 55 degrees out) I start the car up. Ignition is fine but then the engine keeps jumping up and down between 500-2000 rpm. Eventually the engine dies. I start it up again, and same thing. If I immediately shift to "drive" I can get going until I take my foot off the accelerator, idle RPM drops again and engine dies. I decide to see if it may be a fuel pump issue so I floor the accelerator in neutral. RPM tops out at about 4000. Go through this a few times and finally the car starts working normally, engine is hitting 6000+ RPM possible. Drive it for 20 miles with no additional issues. Electrical issue probably not related. Look for Idle Air control Valve. My focus had a vac tube for the cold idle control that was known to crack, when it cracked it had lots of issues with staying running when it was cold.. I had to keep on gas a little while braking until I repaired the tube.
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Oct 22, 2019 15:35
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