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I'm embarking on a big dumb project of which a component is effectively a box of unreasonable dimensions-- 10' x 21" x 5" the "lid" of this box is going to be an entire roll of aluminum flashing, so I can punch a few hundred holes in it and then glue LEDs in to make a sort of video wall  My thought for that front panel right now is to just do a traditional rail+stile cabinet door sorta thing, with that piece of aluminum flashing replacing the normal 1/4" panel. However, because the flashing is like, 1/32" thick, I'm not sure how to make that work-- I suppose I could cut some small strips of 1/8" plywood and wedge them into some slightly oversized panel slots? This is also maybe not the way to do this at all. Realistically I should be doing this with metal but both my welding knowledge and welding equipment are non-existent so I don't think that's going to happen Anyone got suggestions?
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Nov 3, 2019 03:35
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 08:47 |
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I'm thinking you could nail or glue the long edges of the flashing down to a pair of rail boards. By a similar token, if there's space behind the aluminum for it, you should consider putting in the occasional vertical piece. It doesn't have to be full thickness; it's mostly to connect the two rails together. Combined with the rails and a plywood backing, you'd have a one-faced torsion box.That might require the box to be wider than your listed dimensions...but given the unreasonable length of the box, anything you can do to increase rigidity is probably worth considering.
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Nov 3, 2019 03:50
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I've got about 1" of space between the LEDs, so I was thinking about just putting some steel bar running vertically across the rails in the back to keep it stiff-ish. Ideally I'd make the whole thing into a torsion box, but unfortunately, the wires for the LEDs take up about 2" of space behind that panel--  So I can't really do that  I'm also planning hinging it so I can get at the guts without actually disassembling it, but this hopefully illustrates the box concept a bit better, with the power and brains mounted to the back panel, and then I'd be mounting it to the posts with some carriage bolts This really is just a job for a steel frame, isn't it?
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Nov 3, 2019 04:29
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   Christmas present #1 done.
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Nov 3, 2019 15:25
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After staining something what are some alternate finishes i can use to poly/acrylic/shellac as the weather's gone too cold to get any evaporation/cure going outside, and i don't have a safe enough space to do inside without getting high as gently caress. Can i just do mineral oil and or beeswax or because I've stained it i need to finish with an actual finish? These are just some poplar I've stained darker to be wall rails for hooks for a pan rack.
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Nov 4, 2019 23:33
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toplitzin posted:After staining something what are some alternate finishes i can use to poly/acrylic/shellac as the weather's gone too cold to get any evaporation/cure going outside, and i don't have a safe enough space to do inside without getting high as gently caress. I use water-based poly indoors with no ill effects, if that helps at all.
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Nov 4, 2019 23:37
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Spray poly outside bring inside to dry. Repeat 3-20 times. Also bar top resin doesn't put off fumes, you can do that inside all day long (I do)
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Nov 4, 2019 23:39
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toplitzin posted:After staining something what are some alternate finishes i can use to poly/acrylic/shellac as the weather's gone too cold to get any evaporation/cure going outside, and i don't have a safe enough space to do inside without getting high as gently caress.
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Nov 5, 2019 01:07
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Mineral oil/beeswax is kind of okay, but it offers basically no protection and it never dries so it always feels kind of greasy. Something like boiled linseed oil or danish oil is better and shouldn't stink up the house too badly. They both actually dry and cure and form a bit more of a hard finish. The solvent in shellac is just alcohol, so while it doesn't smell great it isn't going to hurt you much worse than regular booze. Beeswax over any of the above once they're dry/cured is good. I've got a jug of BLO around here somewhere.
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Nov 5, 2019 01:23
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:The solvent in shellac is just alcohol, so while it doesn't smell great it isn't going to hurt you much worse than regular booze. Shellac is my go to finish, and this is one of the reasons.
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Nov 5, 2019 02:18
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Jaded Burnout posted:I use water-based poly indoors with no ill effects, if that helps at all. The water based finishes are the most benign, and they've improved by leaps and bounds over the past few decades. But, they are absolutely (or were, last I checked) very temperature sensitive, so typical room temp is good. Humidity will factor with just about any finish, to my experience, but I've not tried the alcohol based ones so....
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Nov 5, 2019 03:10
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Mr. Mambold posted:The water based finishes are the most benign, and they've improved by leaps and bounds over the past few decades. But, they are absolutely (or were, last I checked) very temperature sensitive, so typical room temp is good. Humidity will factor with just about any finish, to my experience, but I've not tried the alcohol based ones so.... Poly is much slower drying anyway, so it may not be as big a difference between water and oil based poly as it is between water and solvent base lacquer. Drying aside, I do think the water based stuff is absolutely the equal of older stuff as far as durability/toughness. They have come a very long way in a very short time in that regard, mostly due to European/  regulations.
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Nov 5, 2019 04:16
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How would y'all feel about a gang tag contest? Is that something that would spark some interest?
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Nov 5, 2019 12:05
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Jaded Burnout posted:How would y'all feel about a gang tag contest? Is that something that would spark some interest? Slatflippin' Crew, obviously
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Nov 5, 2019 14:33
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Tablesaw First crew
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Nov 5, 2019 14:34
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Nine finger crew
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Nov 5, 2019 14:44
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Slatflippin' Crew, obviously This, with half a thumbs up Vvvvv those are great as well Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 15:38 on Nov 5, 2019 |
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Nov 5, 2019 15:14
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Slatflippin' Crew, obviously I was thinking "Slatflippers" and "Bench Dogs", but sounds like we have suggestions. I'll see how the other threads check in and then start something up.
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Nov 5, 2019 15:26
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Bench dogs is good why didn’t I think of that. Nine-fingered slat-flippin bench dogs
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Nov 5, 2019 15:52
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Bench dogs is good why didn’t I think of that. lmao. Swamp-ash haulin, Padauk-dook-dook of Earl nailers. NAILERZ!
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Nov 5, 2019 18:29
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Gang tag contest! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3903115
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Nov 5, 2019 18:40
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Slatflippin' Crew, obviously His Divine Shadow posted:Nine finger crew These and Benchdogs are good drat...
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Nov 5, 2019 18:46
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Slatflippin' Crew, obviously The obvious choice that will raise the most eyebrows.
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Nov 5, 2019 19:20
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Jaded Burnout posted:I was thinking "Slatflippers" and "Bench Dogs", but sounds like we have suggestions. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Slatflippin' Crew, obviously Either one of these.
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Nov 5, 2019 20:32
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I'm having trouble coming up with a design I think I'll like for a project. This is using some live-edge Japanese Maple I milled from a tree that died on my parents' property. The basic plan is "small/short table that can be brought out to put drinks/snacks on for movie night". This is the main board that will serve as the tabletop:  It's a bit over an inch thick. Here's the other material I have to work with, with the tabletop piece at the top of the photo:  The two pieces in front are about 15" long and 1" and 1.5" thick respectively. They have a bit over 2" of thickness before hitting wane. I figure they're my best bet for legs. The piece of crotch wood second from the top is 7/8" thick. I want the tabletop to be about 7-8" off the ground. I could simply cut some square stock from the "leg" pieces, and mortise&tenon them into the tabletop. It'd work and be strong, but I feel like the rectilinearity would look bad with the live-edge top. I'm drawing a blank on what would work well though. Any suggestions?
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Nov 6, 2019 17:54
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I'd consider using a different wood for the legs, and just let the beautiful maple slabs all be used for the top surface of things. You could make a table, plus maybe a small serving tray, and then another thing or two?
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Nov 6, 2019 19:48
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Out of a 2"-wide board? The thinner piece of crotchwood could probably be used for something, but even if I resawed the pieces I'd intended for legs and then edge-jointed them, they're awfully narrow for any purpose I can think of. In any case, that doesn't answer the "what style of legs should I use for a live-edge top" question.
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Nov 6, 2019 20:23
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Oh no I was assuming you'd combine some pieces to make a serving tray or something. My problem with using any of that for legs is the 1" thickness, which I assume you'll have to work down somewhat to finish it. You can totally make a table with 3/4" thick legs, but I think they'll look spindly. Of course, you could laminate some pieces together to get thickness, etc.. I may be misunderstanding your dimensions, because this was a little confusing: TooMuchAbstraction posted:The two pieces in front are about 15" long and 1" and 1.5" thick respectively. They have a bit over 2" of thickness before hitting wane Are they 1" thick and 1.5" thick, or 2" thick? If you've got enough thickness in your other bits to make well-proportioned legs then I withdraw my suggestion!
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Nov 6, 2019 21:18
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Oh whoops, sorry! One of them is just over 1" thick, and has 2 3/8" of usable width before I run into wane. The other is just over 1.5" thick, and about 2 1/4" wide. They're both 15" long. All of the boards are S2S1E at this point (except for the crotch wood, which is just S2S). So I should be able to preserve all of that thickness, and I'm pretty sure I'll need to because you're right, they'd look spindly if they got much thinner. I guess I could make legs from non-square stock, e.g. 1x1.5". That might look okay if the legs were splayed outwards, to keep things looking basically symmetrical. The compound angles required for that would be a pain to set up though, and would eat into how long I can make each leg. I don't have a ton of wood to spare here unfortunately.
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Nov 6, 2019 21:25
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I was gonna say make kind of a trestle base with the other boards and keep the live edge on them but did not realize they were so narrow. Glue your two widest pieces together with a gap down the middle and make your own Vagina TableTM? You might think about a different material for the legs or even painted wood since your stock of that stuff is pretty small, and/or use the skinny stuff for aprons. I think contrasting apron/legs of a darker wood (walnut? Sapele scraps?) would look nice too. Keep them kind of minimal and in the background so it’s mostly about the top? The only real live edge table I’ve ever made had a base made of copper pipe and I think it worked out okay? Definitely would not put lacquer on a live edge again though.  7-8” off the ground seems comically low for a table unless you sit on the floor and maybe even then, but maybe I am not really understanding how you intend to use it.
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Nov 6, 2019 21:45
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Yeah, this is basically just meant to be a "keeps your drinks off the floor" kind of thing. My mom's been using a step stool for that purpose for decades, and I figured it'd be nice to give her a replacement / upgrade, which could also come in handy on movie group nights for people sitting on the couch. There's only one end table in the room, and no coffee table, so flat surfaces are a bit hard to come by. I'll give the apron / legs idea some thought; contrasting with a darker wood does sound like it could look nice, and an apron would simplify the joinery some. Thanks.
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Nov 7, 2019 00:54
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Sacrilegious comedy option: eBay some cheap hairpin legs.
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Nov 9, 2019 17:58
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cakesmith handyman posted:Sacrilegious comedy option: eBay some cheap hairpin legs. You know, something that short might not look bad with hair pins.
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Nov 9, 2019 18:51
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cakesmith handyman posted:Sacrilegious comedy option: eBay some cheap hairpin legs. Why not just use some flipped slats at that point?
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Nov 9, 2019 18:56
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 Nothing too fancy, just some Lowe's poplar stained and shellacked and now holding pots and pans.
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Nov 9, 2019 19:55
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That looks real nice, but you are gonna have dents and chips on your wall in short order unless you put up something behind those pots and pans for them to bang and clang against. In other news, I made a bottle opener for my stepdad for his birthday. Decided to do it last week and his party was this saturday so I had about 6 days to do it in basically, and that included a couple nights I knew I wouldn't have any time, so I'd say this worked out to about a 10 hour project. Sliced up some walnut and some red oak and hand planed to get them flat and then made a sandwich, then cut it into a block using the table saw and the band saw, and then hand planed the sides to get them smooth.  Hole saw to make a rounded spot and then router to extend it to the edge. Not shown, chiseling out the rest of this, and then using a dremel to try and sand away the chunky bits because I only have flat chisels, and then sanding by hand, and not really getting it right anyway.  Mild steel 1" by I think 1/4" stock, cut and ground and filed to shape  Filed in a lip to grip the bottle caps.  Fitting. Took five or ten passes with fine chisel and then sandpaper, and then filing the edges of the steel a bit, to get a nice snug fit.  Back to the bandsaw for some rough shaping. I pretty much improvised the shape, trying to find something that would feel good in the hand. Really you don't need most of this wood, a normal bottle opener is tiny by comparison, so it's partly just wanting to show off the walnut as well.    Then the spokeshave. This is the first real project I've gotten to use it for. I got it wicked sharp and it worked really well, as long as I paid attention to grain direction.    Sanding down, starting with 60 grit, then 180, and finally 220. I had to make a little stick with some sand paper to get the inside edge of the bottlecap, uh, gap.   Two coats of tung oil.  What, I should put tools away? What a weird idea! Came out looking darker than I was expecting but the oak is a nice contrast to the walnut and brings out a little of the walnut's redness. I just wish the walnut's nice grain was a little more visible.  Dropped in a 1/2" hole to fit a stack of neodymium magnets behind the metal bit.  Also drilled a little into the metal bit so the magnets would be closer to the surface of the steel. Even doing this, it's not quite magnetic enough to stick to the fridge and hold its own weight, but the steel will gradually get more magnetic over time due to contact with the magnets so I'm hopeful it works out.  Showing off my mistakes.   Some steel filings maybe stained the wood a bit at one end, and there's a chip, and when I used a normal drill bit to try and countersink for the screws I didn't notice the profile of the bit end was kind of terraced, so they're not very nice countersinks. And I should have spent more time sanding out the cut marks in that second photo but I was out of time so I just figured hell, the bottle caps will scar that area up over time anyway, right? Still think it looks pretty OK for a 1-week project!     
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Nov 11, 2019 08:38
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IDK if this is the ideal thread for my question but im putting some maple plywood shelving up in my laundry room and i'm wondering what the ideal type of primer to use. shellac? it will be topcoated with latex paint.
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Nov 11, 2019 17:43
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Just standard primer like you can buy by the gallon should be fine.
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Nov 11, 2019 18:00
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I wouldn't even bother. Just paint it.
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Nov 11, 2019 18:01
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 08:47 |
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Yeah bare wood doesn't really need primer, unless the topcoat paint is really thin and translucent or something. Latex paint should cover nicely.
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Nov 11, 2019 19:07
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