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Boxman posted:But yeah absolutely just go sit in the car. Find a Carmax or a Carvana or an Enterprise Car Sale or some other no-pressure place for all these test drives, then if you don't feel like paying the premium associated with them, go buy elsewhere. That's a good tip, thanks. I don't like dealing with super chatty or pressing sales people at the dealerships. I'll check out carmax and carvana.
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# ? Nov 7, 2019 06:04 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 11:42 |
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My 2000 Toyota Celica may actually be on its final fumes. Nearing 300k miles. We'll see how much more I can get out of it. Going to drive it into the ground as planned, BUT i'd like to start preparing for the replacement. I'm 6'3" and looking mostly for safety, fuel economy, and space (hatchbacks preferred, but ok with regular sedans). Last time I checked in this thread, a used Prius for ~10k was the go-to answer. I'm not so hot on Toyota anymore since they have sided with the Trump administration's vehicle standards over CA's standards. I'm not entirely opposed if this is still the best option though, since I'm buying used. I don't want to spend more than 15k. I'm looking at ~2016 Honda Fits and Ford Foci. What else should I be considering? Proposed Budget: 15k New or Used: Used Body Style: 4-door - hatchback preferred - I'm 6'3" so interior room is important How will you be using the car?: Short commute. Sometimes going camping. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos? Not really What aspects are most important to you? Safety, fuel economy, space, reliability Location: CA
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# ? Nov 7, 2019 18:13 |
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we JUST had the whole "make sure you sit in the cars to see what you are comfortable in" conversation can we change the thread title to something about that
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# ? Nov 8, 2019 00:43 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:we JUST had the whole "make sure you sit in the cars to see what you are comfortable in" conversation
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# ? Nov 8, 2019 03:20 |
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The E150 is like the hatchback of trucks. So get that and you get all the room. No reason to look around. (Taking a group of friends shooting and camping in the sand dunes in a couple weeks in mine it’s also my road warrior exclusive vehicle)
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# ? Nov 8, 2019 04:17 |
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khysanth posted:My 2000 Toyota Celica may actually be on its final fumes. Nearing 300k miles. We'll see how much more I can get out of it. Going to drive it into the ground as planned, BUT i'd like to start preparing for the replacement. Ugly and boring but cheap https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for...ickType=listing boring,undersized but with factory warranty and honda name (and price premium)... https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for...ickType=listing looks good? https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for...ickType=listing cheapest to run https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for...clickType=alpha Honestly, asking for a hatchback in TYOOL 2019 really,really limits your options. Today is the golden era of a midsize and compact cars. Accord/Camry/Fusion etc have duked it out for 20 years and now all of them are pretty great, with a fuckload of features at a low used price (because no one wants a sedan in 2019). What I would probably buy... https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for...kType=spotlight or https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for...ickType=listing or https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for...ickType=listing
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# ? Nov 8, 2019 05:33 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:we JUST had the whole "make sure you sit in the cars to see what you are comfortable in" conversation I’m 6’4”. Sitting in a car is the only way. For example, minivans: on paper the Odyssey (at the time) was the clear winner. Except for the fact that the drivers seat (well, none of them) was height adjustable. And I would have needed at least an inch and a half, maybe two, to sit in that car without literally tilting my head to the side. In many cars, the proper driving position is contraindicated by the height of the windshield, assuming I want to see things like traffic lights and signs.
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# ? Nov 8, 2019 05:36 |
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Toyota doesn't really care or benefit if you buy a used prius.
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# ? Nov 8, 2019 07:22 |
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the aversion people have to leaving the house and physically sitting in and driving a car is absurd then again: goons
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# ? Nov 8, 2019 12:55 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:the aversion people have to leaving the house and physically sitting in and driving a car is absurd Honestly, if a person hasn't been to one of the no-pressure dealerships, it's understandable. The imagined (and somewhat typical) car buying experience involves fairly pushy sales tactics, and every time you get into a car there's someone to ask what it would take to get you to take that car home. I know I paid more for that car than I would have if i had shopped around even slightly aggressively, but I really appreciated that business model and was fine supporting it.
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# ? Nov 8, 2019 13:37 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:the aversion people have to leaving the house and physically sitting in and driving a car is absurd New business model: Screeching Autism Auto LLC We drive the car to your house, you watch through the curtains until we leave. We leave the car unlocked and depart for 2 hours while you sit in the car, a soothing soundtrack of whale noises plays from a Bluetooth speaker because we’d never trust you with the keys. You make zoom zoom sounds despite it being a 2.0 4 cylinder auto CUV. You ask us if you can use PayPal or crypto to pay for your monthly installments, we sigh.
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# ? Nov 8, 2019 13:40 |
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Motronic posted:Hybrids don't "count" the same for oil change mileage specs as the ICE doesn't really have the same usage profile. 7,500-10,000 is common for regular Accords also. The point is saying "modern dino is at best good for 5k" is directly contradicting at least some auto manufacturers. bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Nov 8, 2019 |
# ? Nov 8, 2019 15:34 |
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The manufacturers who give long oil change intervals on dino oil usually have an exception for "severe conditions," that includes things like regularly driving less than ten miles per trip, driving when it's too hot, driving when it's too cold, driving in stop and go traffic, and driving with a significant load. The super long intervals only apply if you're doing nothing but steady, low-stress highway driving. Oh, and for TCO calculations. Funny how that works.
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# ? Nov 8, 2019 16:46 |
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bird with big dick posted:7,500-10,000 is common for regular Accords also. The honda accord requires 5w-20 which is a synthetic only weight.
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# ? Nov 8, 2019 16:50 |
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nm posted:The honda accord requires 5w-20 which is a synthetic only weight. Guess again: https://smile.amazon.com/Havoline-223393474-5W-20-Motor-Oil/dp/B00M1Y2DJO https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/prod...0-Motor-Oil.pdf https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/daily-protection-conventional-motor-oil There are conventional 5w20 oils. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Nov 8, 2019 |
# ? Nov 8, 2019 16:57 |
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They use 0w20 not 5w20. The main argument I see is whether you want to consider a synthetic blend to be a conventional or a synthetic or neither. But the owners manual does NOT specifically require a synthetic plus specifically states "You may ALSO use synthetic motor oil if it blah blah blah."
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# ? Nov 8, 2019 22:44 |
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Where does everyone sell their 10-15 year old enthusiast cars these days? Craigslist seems pretty dry now.
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# ? Nov 10, 2019 14:24 |
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BlackMK4 posted:Where does everyone sell their 10-15 year old enthusiast cars these days? Craigslist seems pretty dry now. model specific forums
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# ? Nov 10, 2019 15:36 |
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Facebook marketplace
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# ? Nov 10, 2019 16:11 |
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1. Autotrader/Cars.com full ad with carfax paid for 2. Craigslist also with link to 1. 3. Dropbox with documents, 50+ full size pics of every part of the car with every ding and scratch noted, , startup and driving videos, links to the dropbox folder in 1, 2. 4. Also include a listing on the enthusiast forums for your car, with links to 1, 2, 3. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Nov 10, 2019 |
# ? Nov 10, 2019 16:13 |
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I don’t know if this is enthusiast enough but I sold my mazdaspeed Miata with standalone EMS that needed more tuning on Craigslist for what I had it listed for. The guy drove 8 hours to pick it up with a trailer even. It took a while for someone to bite though. Edit: I guess my main tip here is a lot of patience. I did have a huge album with detailed photos ready to go to anyone interested. powderific fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Nov 10, 2019 |
# ? Nov 10, 2019 17:03 |
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BlackMK4 posted:Where does everyone sell their 10-15 year old enthusiast cars these days? Craigslist seems pretty dry now. BAT if extremely clean and/or sought after, model specific forums otherwise.
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# ? Nov 10, 2019 19:39 |
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hemmings is doing auctions but that's more for 25+ years old
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# ? Nov 10, 2019 23:46 |
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khysanth posted:I don't want to spend more than 15k. I'm looking at ~2016 Honda Fits and Ford Foci. What else should I be considering? Unless you are getting a manual I'd avoid the Ford Focus.
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# ? Nov 12, 2019 02:27 |
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Thanks to mostly lurking here, asking a couple stupid questions, and doing some research this thread guided me to, I bought a 2015 Mazda 3 with 58K miles on it this week. It's the base level trim package but that's fine since for right now my commute is really short. If I get the promotion I'm shooting for long-term I'll have to do some highway driving from time to time, but for now I'm just thrilled to have something I'm not terrified to drive on the interstate for fear of it exploding. My next concern is what to do with my 2000 Cavalier which is no longer street legal because the dashboard has crumbled so badly that the wiring is falling apart and it has no working instrument panel, turn signals or 2/3 brake lights (thanks to the kindly deputy who just gave me a warning for that the other day). I'm thinking no used car lot will touch this thing and my best bet is calling a "we buy junk cars for salvage" place to get $200-300 for it, c/d? I think you could buy a dash for it for like $150 and someone handier than me could install it and re-attach the wiring harnesses and still maybe get a year or two out of it since it's only around 62K miles, but I just want rid of the drat thing at this point and don't feel like haggling with craiglisters over a $20 difference around $500.
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# ? Nov 16, 2019 08:13 |
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A functional car that can get somebody to work tomorrow is always worth at least a thousand on Craigslist/Marketplace. If it's not taking up your only parking space, list it and see what happens?
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# ? Nov 16, 2019 14:48 |
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skaboomizzy posted:Thanks to mostly lurking here, asking a couple stupid questions, and doing some research this thread guided me to, I bought a 2015 Mazda 3 with 58K miles on it this week. It's the base level trim package but that's fine since for right now my commute is really short. If I get the promotion I'm shooting for long-term I'll have to do some highway driving from time to time, but for now I'm just thrilled to have something I'm not terrified to drive on the interstate for fear of it exploding. My son has a 2006 PT Cruiser he is selling. It's got a fair amount of body damage, the front bumper cover is torn off, and the grille is gone. Bare radiator and metal bumper up front, in other words. The rear seat won't latch when folded up and the hatch won't stay open. In other words, a classic beater. He was contemplating junking it because it's so awful. He just wanted to get rid of it, so he listed it for $500 just on NextDoor. Not even really an ad, just a post that the car was for sale. People are leaping out of the woodwork to get a chance to look at it. He's got three or four people scheduled today to come by. He could easily have listed and probably sold it for $750. The point is, it's not what it's worth to you. It's what it's worth to somebody else, and you never know that until you put it on the market. Give it a try at a price you think is ridiculous, like $750 or $1000, being fully willing to take much less if it's cash on the barrel. Don't try very hard or spend much to sell it. Take what you can get and if no one is interested, then go for the salvage place. It's always there.
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# ? Nov 16, 2019 16:39 |
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Agreed. My high school car was a tired old Mercury Topaz. Posted it for 1200 on Craigslist just for the hell of it and it got snapped up pretty quick. If it runs and it's not a total death trap, someone will grab it as a winter beater or super cheap desperate commuter.
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# ? Nov 16, 2019 16:50 |
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I used to buy and drive those cheap disposable cars for years. Sure, they had problems, and things occasionally broke. But it was still much cheaper than fighting a depreciation curve on something newer and financed at double digit interest rate. The trick to not be left stranded, is to have more than one disposable car
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# ? Nov 16, 2019 17:01 |
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I posted it on NextDoor for $800, I'll give it through Thanksgiving weekend to see if maybe some college kid home for the holiday wants it. I'll be ecstatic if I get that.
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# ? Nov 16, 2019 21:17 |
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Is that better than Facebook/Craigslist?
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# ? Nov 17, 2019 01:38 |
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Nitrox posted:Is that better than Facebook/Craigslist? It's limited in scope to the neighborhood you live in. I have no idea how it compares to the others. It was free and the car sold for full asking price within two days is all I know.
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# ? Nov 17, 2019 01:42 |
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XRoja posted:That's the plan. But if enough people say a Prius is absolute poo poo for a 6' person I'm going to leave that off the test drive itinerary. Ok, went out over the weekend and drove a bunch of cars. I've landed on a 2017 Prius Prime Premium. Here's the listing I'm thinking of going for: https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=532920790 It seemed pretty comfortable and the MPG is really good, those were my two big criteria. The price seems ok. Is it bad to buy this non-certified from a non-Toyota dealer? I can't find a certified car in this color and in the area that's at a price I can stomach.
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# ? Nov 19, 2019 05:55 |
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Certified is nothing but an extended warranty sold with the car. You can probably find a Toyota dealer that will sell you the warranty if you want it. A used car is a used car, doesn’t matter who sells it.
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# ? Nov 19, 2019 06:25 |
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i fail to understand why people want CPO reliable japanese cars. if it's like, a range rover, i can see value in having a manufacturer warranty and a look-over from a dealer. like dude you are buying a prius, it's the most reliable car on God's green earth. why do you need it to be "certified" by a toyota dealer who briefly looks it over and then charges you an extra two grand because it has a short warranty? you should be getting a PPI anyway, so that covers the look-over part. please do not buy an extended warranty on a prius.
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# ? Nov 19, 2019 15:23 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:please do not buy an extended warranty on a prius. I have a friend who has literally the worst automotive luck I've ever seen, which isn't helped by the fact that his reaction to nearly any repair is "replace the car". Somehow he had a Matrix that snapped a coil spring without a lick of rust anywhere on the car. Then he got a low mileage Prius with an extended warranty... and it had the HV battery poo poo itself. For whatever reason he had the warranty brochure on hand when he was discussing this and showed it to me, so I took a look at it. The salesperson had even been so bold as to circle the part where said warranty did not cover the HV battery. Luckily it was still barely (on the order of weeks remaining) within the original emissions warranty so Toyota replaced the HV battery, not the warranty company.
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# ? Nov 19, 2019 17:27 |
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skipdogg posted:Certified is nothing but an extended warranty sold with the car. You can probably find a Toyota dealer that will sell you the warranty if you want it. Makes sense to me, thanks. I know these are probably stupid questions but I haven't bought a used car in many many years. Applying for financing with the local credit union and then we're off to the lot to talk with the salesperson who is a cartoon characterization of what you would think a used car salesman is.
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# ? Nov 19, 2019 18:10 |
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Does his gold tooth make the "ting" sound when exposed to the sun?
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# ? Nov 19, 2019 18:43 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:which isn't helped by the fact that his reaction to nearly any repair is "replace the car". This is my mom. Granted, her last car was a lemon and well worth getting rid of. I convinced her to get a Honda CR-V for the reliability. She's had it for one year, zero problems (though was mad she had to pay for an oil change as it should be part of the warranty???). She recently told me that she wants to get rid of it once the warranty is up and get a Kia with a ten year warranty. Wtf? Worse is she will not buy a used car (bad experience in the 80's). I honestly think she'd be ideal to lease.
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# ? Nov 19, 2019 18:50 |
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# ? Apr 25, 2024 11:42 |
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Uthor posted:I convinced her to get a Honda CR-V for the reliability. She's had it for one year, zero problems (though was mad she had to pay for an oil change as it should be part of the warranty???). She recently told me that she wants to get rid of it once the warranty is up and get a Kia with a ten year warranty. Wtf? I mean, new Kias and Hyundais are nice, but... that's a major WTF. My '13 CR-V made it to just shy of 164k before I had to have someone else actually repair it, and that's only because I was an idiot who got into a crash. I have reasons to want to replace it but the continued insane reliability of that car is one of the reasons I haven't already. Not having a car payment covers a lot of repair budget, way more than that Honda will ever need.
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# ? Nov 19, 2019 19:26 |