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Colostomy Bag posted:As for the mounts, pop the hood. Rev the engine, see it you the top of it rock. Also clunking on gear changes. Less noticeable on automatics.
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Nov 17, 2019 22:24
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Krakkles posted:Where do you live? I'm up in Buffalo, so they definitely get mileage. I'm used to paying $20/set, so $50 a set isn't that big a leap, especially if they work well and hold up. I assume aquapel is similar to rainx? I always have a coat of that on my windshield, but it doesn't do a lot against snow and ice.
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Nov 18, 2019 15:09
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Colostomy Bag posted:A lot of times when CV joints go is you'll get a clicking sound when going around a corner. It depends. If it's the outer joint, yeah, you'll definitely hear it on turns. If it's the inner, you get shaking instead of clicking (until it's about to let go, then it'll start making noise), but no noise on turns (since that inner joint really doesn't move for turns). The inners don't go bad very often on most cars, but when they do, it can eventually become a paint shaker under throttle. Also, on AWD cars, you won't really know you have a bad one in the back until it either starts popping or shaking. Or the grease hits the exhaust. You'll definitely know then. Beach Bum posted:Also clunking on gear changes. Less noticeable on automatics. This. My Altima's exhaust would slam into the bottom of the car with a very loud CLANG if I did an aggressive downshift when a mount let go.
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Nov 18, 2019 17:08
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I'm up in Buffalo, so they definitely get mileage. I'm used to paying $20/set, so $50 a set isn't that big a leap, especially if they work well and hold up. Here in ultra-monsoon Florida I apply Aquapel once a year, and run just distilled water in my washer fluid reservoir. It's the same as RainX but like a hyper version. I don't have any suggestion for how it is with snow and ice but for rain it's great. Also on shower doors!
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Nov 18, 2019 17:14
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KakerMix posted:Here in ultra-monsoon Florida I apply Aquapel once a year, and run just distilled water in my washer fluid reservoir. It's the same as RainX but like a hyper version. Next big news headline: "Florida Man Applies Aquapel on Shower Door then Lights it on Fire" All in good jest my friend.
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Nov 18, 2019 17:54
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C-Bangin' it 
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What do I do about weather stripping or whatever this is falling off of windows? Car is a 2007-ish lexus gx. Will bad things happen if I just cut it? 
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Nov 18, 2019 20:52
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You can, but you're probably better off getting some trim adhesive and using a small amount to glue it back up there so it stops running. (3M FasTack or similar - any auto parts store should have something)
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Nov 18, 2019 21:16
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I've got an 05 Ford Ranger, absolute base model 2wd, standard cab, etc. which needs new tires. It's got a set of 225/70R15s on it now. Discount Tire has a good price on some Goodyear Wranger Radials in 235/75R15. I see that other trim levels of the 2005 Ranger came with 235/75s stock. I drive it in town for errands, but I also take it on crappy New Mexico dirt roads for hunting and such. Is going to a slightly larger tire a bad idea for me, or will I get away with it?
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Nov 18, 2019 23:07
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Pham Nuwen posted:I've got an 05 Ford Ranger, absolute base model 2wd, standard cab, etc. which needs new tires. It's got a set of 225/70R15s on it now. Discount Tire has a good price on some Goodyear Wranger Radials in 235/75R15. I see that other trim levels of the 2005 Ranger came with 235/75s stock. I drive it in town for errands, but I also take it on crappy New Mexico dirt roads for hunting and such. Is going to a slightly larger tire a bad idea for me, or will I get away with it? That size was on the 4wd, so no sure how big a difference that makes? It's a 5.4% speedometer error.
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Nov 19, 2019 00:57
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Pham Nuwen posted:I've got an 05 Ford Ranger, absolute base model 2wd, standard cab, etc. which needs new tires. It's got a set of 225/70R15s on it now. Discount Tire has a good price on some Goodyear Wranger Radials in 235/75R15. I see that other trim levels of the 2005 Ranger came with 235/75s stock. I drive it in town for errands, but I also take it on crappy New Mexico dirt roads for hunting and such. Is going to a slightly larger tire a bad idea for me, or will I get away with it? Thar depends on how many runs you're doing for Heisenberg. Get your proper size.
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Nov 19, 2019 06:03
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Pham Nuwen posted:I've got an 05 Ford Ranger, absolute base model 2wd, standard cab, etc. which needs new tires. It's got a set of 225/70R15s on it now. Discount Tire has a good price on some Goodyear Wranger Radials in 235/75R15. I see that other trim levels of the 2005 Ranger came with 235/75s stock. I drive it in town for errands, but I also take it on crappy New Mexico dirt roads for hunting and such. Is going to a slightly larger tire a bad idea for me, or will I get away with it? Do it. That's a very reasonable up size.
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Nov 19, 2019 06:14
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StormDrain posted:Do it. That's a very reasonable up size. I did it. With the tires installed, any concerns about clearance have gone away. It looks good, too:  Uh followup since I'm in the thread already: a few months back some dickhole used a screwdriver on the driver's side lock. I got a locksmith to fix it so I could get in and out, but the sheet metal around the keyhole looks like poo poo. Is this something that can usually be fixed, or do I just need to look for a junkyard door? If it's worth fixing, what kind of shop do I want to look for and what should I expect to pay? Pham Nuwen fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Nov 19, 2019 |
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Nov 19, 2019 20:50
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Junkyard door is totally the way to go. Just shop around until you find one that's the right color. Fixing sheet metal that needs to support a lock mechanism is gonna be time consuming, and it will absolutely need to be painted after that. E: looks good sitting on those tires.
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Nov 19, 2019 21:01
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Motronic posted:Junkyard door is totally the way to go. Just shop around until you find one that's the right color. drat, I had envisioned something like a thin washer that goes under the lip of the lock, like, gets epoxied down over the hosed-up sheet metal. I'll check the pick-and-pull; luckily tan Rangers are one of the most common vehicles in Albuquerque.
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Nov 19, 2019 21:09
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I mean if you just want it to be good enough and not "looks like factory", spend some time with a hammer and some pliers and see if you can flatten things out a bit. But I would wager that it would be less effort and not a lot more money to swap for a junkyard door.
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Nov 19, 2019 21:52
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Pham Nuwen posted:drat, I had envisioned something like a thin washer that goes under the lip of the lock, like, gets epoxied down over the hosed-up sheet metal. I'll check the pick-and-pull; luckily tan Rangers are one of the most common vehicles in Albuquerque. I think it comes down to your skill. I did that work on a metal pedestrian door for my garage and got it knocked out in a day, Bondo smooth and primed in another day. Of course you'll have to strip the door down all the way to do it. So by then... Maybe just replace the door? Of course you'll need help to get it lined up right and have to paint it if it doesn't match. Which do you have more of, skill and time, or money?
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Nov 19, 2019 23:09
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2005 Accord Chinese motor mount trip report: They seem fine but also kinda lovely. Thanks much to all who gave advice about the mounts and the CVs. The shaking was pretty pronounced with wheels on, on jackstands, just letting it spin a bit and then hitting the brakes. It moved quite a bit when changing from P to N to R but that's kind of normal, I think? It doesn't seem overly violent, anyways, but given the harshness when stopping I thought it couldn't hurt to change the mounts. The OEM Honda's have these nice little extra tapered ends on the transmission mounts that would have saved me a lot of confusion, panic, getting the tap and dye set out because clearly the loving thing is stripped...finally un-tetrising the bastard to immediately find that no, the threads are lovely but the nut goes on fine. The tight space inside the crossmembers and these lovely knock-off bolts makes it so you either need to have Gumby hands or you need to get it started with a really small socket... Anyways, after much time wasted I managed to get 4/6 mounts installed. Tragically, one of the little side motor mount's 17mm bolts was stripped to loving Oblivion, and I'm not quite sure what to do about that yet. The other remaining is the upper transmission mount but I ran way out of time to get anything more done tonight. Even more unbudgeted time was spent fishing for bolts after they refused to go back in to the rear motor mount...  With only 4/6 of the new mounts in the car feels... Less shakey overall to a large degree (it no longer feels like it's about to implode if I try to maintain 50+mph) I swear it sounds like its running a bit more harshly and it's still shaking an unacceptable amount. STR posted:If the axle had bad CV joints, it would shake noticeably under acceleration (and a bit while cruising if they're really bad), increasing in frequency with car speed, not engine speed (though as it upshifts into higher gears, the shaking would become less pronounced, as the joints won't be seeing as much torque). If it's mounts, the shaking would be tied to engine speed. I might be super daft this evening but I'm finding it hard to decide whether my shaking is aligning more with the engine rpms, or if it's simply increasing with speed but diminishing on gear changes... If I keep it in a lower gear it seems tied to my RPMs yet at the same time its not as bad once I get up to speed. I wonder what it feels like when both the mounts are shot and the CV is failing? I have axles for both sides that I hope to put in tomorrow. They were a decent price from Napa. Speaking of which- they only had a remanufactured axle for the driver's side and new for the passenger when I went in. I went ahead and bought them because I just didn't care at the time but would it be worth the extra $20 (either way) to go back and make sure they are either both reman or both new? TheBananaKing fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Nov 21, 2019 |
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Nov 20, 2019 07:06
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The rear mount on an automatic is the one that's going to be stressed the most, and usually cause the most shaking when in a forward gear. Random, are you a AAA member? It looks like Napa is giving a 20% discount (through the end of the month) on all parts if you are, which brings a lot of their stuff down to Advance Auto's online order prices (Advance always has at least a 20% coupon available, sometimes better.. I got 25% off on the axle I got). Normal AAA discount is 10%. I prefer Napa for electrical stuff, and stuff that's a pain in the rear end (like axles), but usually use Advance for everything else if I can't wait for it to be shipped from Rockauto (or if it's something I'm likely going to use the warranty on). Reman axles are always a crapshoot. I've had them last a couple of years, and I've had them last a week before snapping a joint with little warning (a couple of pops making a u-turn earlier in the day). If you only plan to drive the car for a year or two, and don't mind doing the job again if you have to, stick with the reman. As for bad mounts AND bad CVs, I know exactly how that feels (you just described my car) - it's like driving a paint shaker. 
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Nov 20, 2019 07:37
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So how bad of an idea is it to swap rotors and reuse existing brake pads? They look pretty much brand new (and the Carfax shows it got a brake job at a local brake chain about 7k miles ago), but the rotors are "warped" (yeah, I know they don't actually warp usually, but the car turns into a paint shaker anytime I brake). I'm on a shoestring budget at the moment and just want the shaking to stop. If this is an even worse idea than I thought, then I'll just order Rockauto's cheapest rotor and pad combo, instead of ordering rotors from Amazon.
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Nov 20, 2019 08:01
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I've done it before. No problems to speak of. I usually just sand a oval office hair off the pads before putting them back in.
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Nov 20, 2019 12:08
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Never had a problem re-using pads.
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Nov 20, 2019 14:36
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PainterofCrap posted:Never had a problem re-using pads. I briefly forgot what thread I clicked on and thought this was about menstrual products. This is my contribution to the conversation. You're welcome.
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Nov 20, 2019 14:43
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Thanks for the advance auto tip. Don't know why but I never buy car parts through the websites. I've been paying 20% more like a chump all this time. I was able to get a 25% coupon by putting the axles in my cart and letting them sit there overnight. These Napa ones are headed back!
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Nov 20, 2019 16:26
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Yep, %20 is easy to come by. Even works on batteries.
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Nov 20, 2019 16:36
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PS20 pretty much always works (20% off). COUPON25 works now and then for 25% off. If you google Advance Auto Coupons, retailmenot will usually have the active ones listed. Some of them used to stack, I don't think many do anymore.
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Nov 20, 2019 22:57
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STR posted:PS20 pretty much always works (20% off). COUPON25 works now and then for 25% off. Is that the only remaining working coupon at retailmenot? I haven't found a valid coupon there that was an actual coupon code in years, discounting ones that were loudly advertised on the main website that I was shopping at anyways.
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Nov 21, 2019 04:01
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It depends on the company you're ordering from. Some coupons are always up to date (rockauto, advance auto), some are always laughably out of date.
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Nov 21, 2019 05:54
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If PS20 doesn't work, just hammer the site with tabs until it goes "offline" and see what code is running for the 20%. I think they have some super-sensitive DoS protection or something, because opening in an incog window works just fine after getting the offline page. I used to order most everything online for instore pickup because of PS20, but after today the staff at my local branch has been instructed by the manager to just give me 20% and my Speedperks whenever I come in since I'm in there so often [shadetree]. That way the staff gets the sale instead of the website. I was coming in to get a 36mm axle nut socket, and the manager was wondering why I was outside on my phone instead of bringing it to the counter, so I told him about my methods. Maybe I'm an old fashioned curmudgeon but I like my brick-and-mortar auto parts stores with the real folks in them, and I don't want that to go away. Some of their prices are fuckoff insane, yeah, but my local store folks understand that and don't hold a grudge. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 10:51 on Nov 21, 2019 |
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Nov 21, 2019 10:48
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My coworker has a 2013 Ford Fusion with a dead instrument cluster display. It looks like I would need to use the Ford IDS system to reprogram a used cluster to match her car / keys. I bought this hardware for my Volvo: I see I can buy the same thing but with "Ford IDS" on the label instead of "powered for vida". It looks like the same thing but with a different DVD included. If I can acquire the Ford software, will this hardware work?
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Nov 21, 2019 19:27
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Hi all, I have a question: Make: Kia Model: Sorento SX V6 Year: 2016 (bought october 2015) Mileage: 28k km (pretty low) Problem: When parking on an incline nose down (not even that steep) the EPB (electronic parking brake) light comes on after starting up and it refuses to disengage. I have had the car towed to the dealership where they say they can’t find any fault with it, and to monitor it. Well, it happened again a couple times only this time I just drove it around a corner (with the emerg brake engaged, not good I know) to a flat area where I can then disengage it. Now I try to never park on a downward incline but sometimes it kicks in at angles less steep than I would have expected. I took it into the dealership again as part of a regular oil/winter tire swap and told them it was still doing it but again they shrugged and said they couldn’t find any sign because there were no “codes” on the system. It’s pretty annoying and in the space of just a couple months turned me from really enjoying the car and being pretty pro on Kia to souring me both on the systems and their service. Mostly I’d like to know if there is anything I could tell the service dept to check or suggest fixes (I have heard this is controlled by a “body control module” from some googling and swapping that out can resolve it. This was in hyundai genesis but I imagine the systems are fairly similar across the sister korean brands and models. Anyway any advice or ideas on how to deal with it would be great.
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Nov 21, 2019 19:58
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You could try escalating things to Kia of America. It looks like they respond to tweets to @kia. At 28k miles I would be pissed and they should be bending over backwards to help you IMO.
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Nov 21, 2019 20:03
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Email/call the dealership manager. If you don't get an outstanding answer do the same thing with Kia corporate. Consider using a different dealership if there is one close. This is more a legal/warranty/consumer advocacy question than a car question.
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Nov 21, 2019 20:04
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Good points thanks! Also if anyone had similar issues with EPBs it would be interesting to hear how they got solved..
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Nov 21, 2019 20:05
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priznat posted:Hi all, I have a question: Is the parking brake light the same as your regular brake warning light? If so, check your brake fluid level.
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Nov 21, 2019 20:11
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Are you using the auto-hold feature when you are shutting the car off? Guessing you've seen this one? It has some ideas on getting it to release: https://www.kia-forums.com/threads/2016-sorento-sx-electronic-parking-brake-wont-release.338752/
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Nov 21, 2019 20:12
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Charles posted:Is the parking brake light the same as your regular brake warning light? If so, check your brake fluid level. Parking brake light is different, it has the usual red indicator with the (( )) around it when engaged. When the issue crops up the “EPB” amber light comes on along with the “AUTO HOLD” notification. The first time I took it into the dealership they made sure the brake fluid was topped up, they thought maybe it was exposing a sensor when at an angle. taqueso posted:Are you using the auto-hold feature when you are shutting the car off? I just use the parking brake engage switch, I don’t usually use auto hold at all. However as mentioned above it does light up the AH indicator when the problem pops up. I had seen that thread as well, it didn’t really have a satisfactory conclusion I thought. Don’t really want to have to disconnect the battery or pull fuses if it gets stuck!
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Nov 21, 2019 20:27
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Troubleshooting question. 2004 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon ~100k miles When driving on any road, specifically from around 50-60 mph, the front right wheel will build up vibrations until it is vibrating violently if I let it. It does seem to cause some small side to side in the steering but it will keep tracking strait while it is happening. It doesn't happen ever above or below that speed range. It can begin while on mostly smooth pavement or after a bump or pavement transition. I also had a situation where the entire jeep seemed to be bouncing/rocking forwards and backwards at a similar speed, but this has happened only once and I assume it was being caused by the main issue. I've removed and remounted all the wheels, visually inspected the springs, shocks, dampers, and other steering and suspension bits and nothing obvious is leaping out at me. The wheel has no wheel weights and I wonder it if might be a balance issue but it doesn't get worse as I speed up, just sticks to that specific range. My brother and I got it up on jacks and tried to move the wheels around to see if there was any play but it seemed fine, and there is no extra play in the steering. I'm guessing the issue might be worn bushings and the wheel being unbalanced. Maybe a blown damper? Any thoughts?
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Nov 21, 2019 20:34
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taqueso posted:My coworker has a 2013 Ford Fusion with a dead instrument cluster display. It looks like I would need to use the Ford IDS system to reprogram a used cluster to match her car / keys. I bought this hardware for my Volvo: J2534 is the SAE standard for generic diagnostic interfaces to be used with official OEM software, so as long as your adapter has the right physical interfaces for the car it should work fine with the Ford software.
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Nov 21, 2019 20:37
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Nyyen posted:Troubleshooting question. Congratulations, it's probably death wobble. Your diagnosis of worn bushings is likely accurate, with the added fun of it can be caused by a combination of pretty much any bushing, ball joint, or tie rod end in your front suspension.
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Nov 21, 2019 21:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:Congratulations, it's probably death wobble. Your diagnosis of worn bushings is likely accurate, with the added fun of it can be caused by a combination of pretty much any bushing, ball joint, or tie rod end in your front suspension. Could I easily replace the bushings, ball joints, and tie rods with just a couple jack stands and a floor jack? If not, what would be an average cost estimate for a shop to do something like that?
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Nov 21, 2019 22:08
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