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"Easily" may not be the right word but yes, it's DIY-able. If you're just going with stock replacements, at least for the control arm bushings, I'd recommend just replacing the whole arm and save yourself the effort of having to press those bushings out/in. You'll still have at least two bushings to replace in the axle housing itself, and in my experience the fastest way to get them out is a combination of cutting the outer sleeve and hitting it with an air hammer. If you don't have enough compressor to run an air hammer, a BFH and a chisel will also work. I was able to get it done with a ~5 gallon compressor since as far as air hammer jobs go, this is a light-ish one. You'll need to rent a ball joint press for the ball joints, and also to press the new bushings into the axle. You'll also want to use something as a spacer on the passenger axle bushing since the ear it presses into is easily bent without one. Tie rod ends are straightforward, can rent a pickle fork or even just buy one for cheap. Ball joints, you'll probably also need the "4x4 adapter set" if wherever you rent the press from doesn't include that with the main press tool now. None of it is difficult in the sense of requiring any particular finesse or specialized skill - it's just hard work. Breaker bars and impact wrenches will be your friends. Last note - when you do the final torque on all the bushings you need the Jeep to be on its wheels. I haven't done this job on my TJ yet but on my WJ the hardest part about it was trying to generate enough torque without a whole lot of room to do so. There's definitely a lot more access on my TJ so that's probably not as much of a pain.
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Nov 21, 2019 22:35
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I would like to install a trailer hitch on my Honda Odyssey to I saw this video on install and it doesn't appear difficult, definitely within my mechanical skill level. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mCze7z-feuo I have no idea where to even buy a trailer hitch. Where should I buy it, and what should I get?
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Nov 21, 2019 23:16
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canyoneer posted:I would like to install a trailer hitch on my Honda Odyssey to https://www.etrailer.com/fitguide.htm Same place you found the video. I've bought a lot off of them.
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Nov 21, 2019 23:20
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Regarding my EPB issue I filled out the service survey the other day indicating how pissed off I am and got a call about it just now offering me a loaner until they can figure out the issue on my car so that’s cool. I am a super wuss and hate raising a stink about things but these surveys seem super effective when they stress anything less than 9s or 10s are regarded as a fail.
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Nov 21, 2019 23:23
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My girlfriend's red car (2009 Toyota Matrix S 2.4L 4AT FWD) has a wheel bearing going out. I haven't yet figured out which one it is, but it sounds like it's in the back. It looks to me like the hub and bearing are sold as a single unit that just bolts on to the beam axle out back rather than something I'd need to press on or otherwise use special tools with, but I'm having trouble finding any DIY guides online for this generation, I can only find the previous ones that use drum brakes and I don't know how similar it may be otherwise. Assuming it is in fact the rear bearing though, am I correct that this should be a pretty easy garage job not requiring any more tools than doing the brakes? I don't have access to a press or anything along those lines so if it's a front bearing I'm just going to have her take it to a shop.
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Nov 21, 2019 23:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:"Easily" may not be the right word but yes, it's DIY-able. If you're just going with stock replacements, at least for the control arm bushings, I'd recommend just replacing the whole arm and save yourself the effort of having to press those bushings out/in. You'll still have at least two bushings to replace in the axle housing itself, and in my experience the fastest way to get them out is a combination of cutting the outer sleeve and hitting it with an air hammer. If you don't have enough compressor to run an air hammer, a BFH and a chisel will also work. I was able to get it done with a ~5 gallon compressor since as far as air hammer jobs go, this is a light-ish one. Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. Unfortunately, I don't have a compressor or easy access to one, or many of the tools you mentioned. If I take it to a shop, is there any order I should have then replace parts, cheap to expensive? Or should I just replace all the bushings and assume it will be worth it at this point in the trucks life?
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Nov 21, 2019 23:48
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FWIW, the special tools he mentioned are rentable for free* from most auto parts chains. (* For a deposit of the cost of the tool)
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Nov 22, 2019 00:03
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Nyyen posted:If I take it to a shop, is there any order I should have then replace parts You should not be using a shop to replace parts. You should be using a shop to FIX THE ISSUE. Do not go in with your "internet knowledge" telling them what to do. Tell them what is happening. Let them figure it out, sanity check their diagnosis based on what you've read here. If you go in telling them what parts to replace you'll get exactly that and if it's the wrong thing you're out of luck.
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Nov 22, 2019 00:11
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TheBananaKing posted:FWIW, the special tools he mentioned are rentable for free* from most auto parts chains. Yep - use a credit card and they just refund the charge and you're effectively out nothing during the time period. I think O'Reilly has a fairly strict timeframe but Autozone is much more lax. With that said: Motronic posted:You should not be using a shop to replace parts. You should be using a shop to FIX THE ISSUE. 100% agreed. I would also slightly recommend finding a shop that is well liked in your local offroad community - they'll have dealt with this problem drat near every week and will likely be better able to resolve it without shotgunning the entire front suspension at it. I also forgot to mention the track bar bushings as a possible culprit. I don't think the OE track bar (assuming yours is stock) has replaceable bushings, and depending on parts cost it may make sense to upgrade.
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Nov 22, 2019 00:50
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IOwnCalculus posted:I would also slightly recommend finding a shop that is well liked in your local offroad community - they'll have dealt with this problem drat near every week and will likely be better able to resolve it without shotgunning the entire front suspension at it. Absolutely if there is a shop or shops like this around. They're the most likely to be familiar with death wobble and know what's up.
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Nov 22, 2019 00:53
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2015 Mazda 6. I've got reason to believe I have a dead ABS wheel sensor. I'd like to do a little testing before I just start shotgunning parts at this thing. If a visual inspection checks out on all corners, what's my next step? I figure there's gotta be a way to check with a multimeter but I wanted to ask you guys before venturing into the wilds of the internet.
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Nov 22, 2019 02:00
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:2015 Mazda 6. I've got reason to believe I have a dead ABS wheel sensor. I'd like to do a little testing before I just start shotgunning parts at this thing. If a visual inspection checks out on all corners, what's my next step? I figure there's gotta be a way to check with a multimeter but I wanted to ask you guys before venturing into the wilds of the internet. Toss the part at it.
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Nov 22, 2019 02:17
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C-Bangin' it 
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:2015 Mazda 6. I've got reason to believe I have a dead ABS wheel sensor. I'd like to do a little testing before I just start shotgunning parts at this thing. If a visual inspection checks out on all corners, what's my next step? I figure there's gotta be a way to check with a multimeter but I wanted to ask you guys before venturing into the wilds of the internet. South Main Auto has some videos on ABS sensors. Should at least be good for seeing a pro tier diagnostics process. A multimeter won't tell you if the sensor output is any good, but you can use it to verify pretty much everything else.
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Nov 22, 2019 05:36
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I just bought a used 2006 Prius and after a day the only available "smart key" fob stopped working (not just a battery issue.) Any suggestions on possible solutions before I plop down the money on a locksmith or towing to the dealer (or whatever I have to do)?
Drink-Mix Man fucked around with this message at 07:51 on Nov 22, 2019 |
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Nov 22, 2019 07:40
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Any ideas what this destroyed suv in DRC could be? I assume Chinese but I don't know.
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Nov 22, 2019 12:37
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Is there a good place for tyre reviews? Most of the places I'm looking at, the bad reviews are mixed in with a lot of "tyre fitter was late/rude/foreign so I'm giving one star" rather than how the tyre was. On the off chance someone can recommend some, I'm looking for 235/45 r17, previously had kumho ecsta le sport and they lasted about 25K and I kinda liked em but want to see what else is around
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Nov 22, 2019 12:53
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Tire rack and discount tire.com Though since you spell it "tyre" you might be from across the pond. The tires available here might differ slightly from over there.
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Nov 22, 2019 12:58
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DesperateDan posted:Is there a good place for tyre reviews? Most of the places I'm looking at, the bad reviews are mixed in with a lot of "tyre fitter was late/rude/foreign so I'm giving one star" rather than how the tyre was. I am absolutely in love with my Continental Extreme Contacts, but if lifespan is your prime concern they might not be the tire for you. The wet traction is amazing though (as well as the dry traction but you can get that in any performance summer tire).
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Nov 22, 2019 14:43
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Motronic posted:You should not be using a shop to replace parts. You should be using a shop to FIX THE ISSUE. IOwnCalculus posted:100% agreed. I would also slightly recommend finding a shop that is well liked in your local offroad community - they'll have dealt with this problem drat near every week and will likely be better able to resolve it without shotgunning the entire front suspension at it. Motronic posted:Absolutely if there is a shop or shops like this around. They're the most likely to be familiar with death wobble and know what's up. Ok, thanks for the advice. I'll see if I can narrow it down and if so try to do it myself. If not I'l hand it off to a shop and stay out from underfoot.
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Nov 22, 2019 15:35
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Dejan Bimble posted:Any ideas what this destroyed suv in DRC could be? I assume Chinese but I don't know. A Landwind? Idk hard to tell.
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Nov 22, 2019 16:57
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wolrah posted:My girlfriend's red car (2009 Toyota Matrix S 2.4L 4AT FWD) has a wheel bearing going out. I haven't yet figured out which one it is, but it sounds like it's in the back. It's dead simple. 4 bolts, don't even need to disassemble the rear brakes beyond removing the drum. The hard part is popping the drum off if it's been a long time since it's been off, but it should have two threaded holes to screw bolts into to force it off. IIRC they're M8 1.25 bolts that you can grab at Lowe's or Home Depot (they'll be in the metric bolt drawers). Make sure the parking brake is NOT on when you do this, and obviously use jackstands to support the car. Use a torque wrench when reinstalling (Harbor Freight often has them cheap, and you can always google for a 20% off coupon). Start to finish can be done in <30 minutes if the drum doesn't fight you much. Looks like the bolts for the hub should be torqued to about 45 ft/lbs. May want to use a dab of blue loctite on them (and I mean a tiny dab), but IIRC I don't think they came with any from the factory. The bolts take a 12mm socket; if the car has any rust it might fight you a little on removal. If it doesn't have rust, they pop loose pretty easy. Just make sure you don't whack the brake line. (I had to do the same job on my GF's Matrix... also red). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Nov 22, 2019 |
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Nov 22, 2019 17:01
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Ok, death wobble questions continued, but now with video evidence, maybe. I don't really know how much/little play to look for but these all seemed to have at least some movement. These are the tie rod connections on passenger, then driver side. These both seemed to have a little wiggle to them, around a mm or less. https://i.imgur.com/REjylIP.mp4 https://i.imgur.com/ICyhtJG.mp4 This is the drag bar and pitman arm connection. There is a tiny bit of shifting up and down as it moves, maybe a mm or less. https://i.imgur.com/sjxf3Wf.mp4 And this is the track bar on the drive then passenger sides. The passenger side seemed to be moving slightly and I wonder if this is the ovalling I keep hearing about. https://i.imgur.com/rw0TCAu.mp4 https://i.imgur.com/txAfMgr.mp4 Edit: Duh. Thanks V Nyyen fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Nov 22, 2019 |
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Nov 22, 2019 21:11
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Don't put [img] or [timg] tags on videos E: Edited to save bandwidth for everyone Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Nov 22, 2019 |
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Nov 22, 2019 21:19
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 I can tell I'm going to learn something in the next few postsbeautiful gifs btw
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Nov 22, 2019 21:29
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Nyyen posted:Ok, death wobble questions continued, but now with video evidence, maybe. I don't really know how much/little play to look for but these all seemed to have at least some movement. Also, this is a great diagnostic tool. I dunno if you did this via Live Photo, but drat, that's a whole new use for them, I like it.
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Nov 22, 2019 21:34
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Yeah, all of those have significant wear. It doesn't take much slop to allow death wobble to start setting in.
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Nov 22, 2019 21:37
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Dejan Bimble posted:Any ideas what this destroyed suv in DRC could be? I assume Chinese but I don't know. Do you have another angle or a better quality photo?
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Nov 22, 2019 22:40
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Found it https://www.cars-directory.net/pics/toyota/corolla_wagon/1992/toyota_corolla_wagon_2745824.jpg 1992 Toyota Corolla Why did you want to know? And why did you think it was Chinese? simplefish fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Nov 22, 2019 |
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Nov 22, 2019 23:04
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Krakkles posted:These two definitely have movement they shouldn't. I'm not saying the others are GOOD, but these are BAD. Ok, thanks. I was thinking these might have been the ones. They were just videos I ran through Imgur's video to gif tool. As for parts, does anyone have any recommendations for where online or offline to get them, and any particular brands if I was mostly interested in getting basic parts, without ending up with chinesium crap? Stock parts would be fine. Here's a hacked together picture showing the bad bushings. From what I see here I will need at least a drag link end, driver's and passenger's side tie rod ends, and track bar. Did I miss anything?  Edit: And will any of those components shift if I have it on jack stands. As in would I need anything beyond some muscle to remove these parts and put new ones on, and not another person to hold them while I was getting stuff lined up and bolted on. Nyyen fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Nov 22, 2019 |
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Nov 22, 2019 23:21
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This is definitely a rabbit hole, but I'd always at least look at RockAuto. Moog, Spicer, ACDelco, Mopar (OEM) are all good bets. It looks like they even carry energy suspension, which is getting into non-stock, but good stuff. It's usually worth a gander at amazon or ebay once you've got a part number from RockAuto - usually, Rock will be cheap(est-ish), sometimes, the other two may well have lower prices.
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Nov 22, 2019 23:57
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Oh and looking at all these parts. Are they all cross compatible with the stock stuff? If I get ACDelco tie rod ends can I keep the stock tensioning tube or do I need to replace that as well? And sorry for all the questions. I think this is the list of parts that would need to be replaced. ACDELCO Track Bar ACDELCO Pitman Arm Tie Rod End ACDELCO Right Inner Tie Rod End ACDELCO Left Outer Tie Rod End ACDELCO Right OuterTie Rod End These would be if I couldn't use the stock ones. ACDELCO Adjusting Sleeve (34.69" Length) ACDELCO Adjusting Sleeve (5") Nyyen fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Nov 23, 2019 |
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Nov 23, 2019 00:27
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STR posted:It's dead simple. 4 bolts, don't even need to disassemble the rear brakes beyond removing the drum. Well that's the reason I wasn't sure about what I've seen so far in DIYs, her car is a second-gen Matrix which has discs in the back, but all the DIYs have been for first-gen Matrix/Vibe or similar Corollas with drums. It doesn't look like it should be significantly different aside from the obvious, but it's cold out so I want to be as prepared as I can be if I choose to take this on.
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Nov 23, 2019 00:37
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Here's series of dumb questions, what did BMW call its wagons for the US markets, or did we ever even get them? How dumb is it to buy a E38 BMW, ideally a V12, but the V8 also? Do those round 20 pin to OBDII adapters actually work with Torque, or is there special BMW software that I'd need?
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Nov 23, 2019 02:28
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Nyyen posted:Oh and looking at all these parts. Are they all cross compatible with the stock stuff? If I get ACDelco tie rod ends can I keep the stock tensioning tube or do I need to replace that as well? Yes, all of those are meant to be stock replacements that would work fine with your stock adjuster sleeves. As a bonus since none of those need to be pressed in, you can do all of that with a good socket set, a breaker bar and/or impact wrench, and a pickle fork and/or big hammer to unseat all the tapers on the ball joints. And a torque wrench to get everything snugged up. Nyyen posted:Edit: And will any of those components shift if I have it on jack stands. As in would I need anything beyond some muscle to remove these parts and put new ones on, and not another person to hold them while I was getting stuff lined up and bolted on. The tie rod ends can easily be done solo. You'll want to look up doing a tape measure alignment after you replace them - yes, you can just take it to an alignment shop as well, but literally the only major adjustment on a TJ front suspension is toe angle. The track bar can also be done solo but it will be at least a *little* more finicky since the Jeep will probably shift a bit. Having done that job on my WJ by myself, you can actually pull things into alignment yourself (assuming your tie rods are all hooked back up!) by just cranking the steering wheel until things get close enough. Should be somewhat easier on yours assuming your suspension is still stock.
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Nov 23, 2019 03:42
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yes, all of those are meant to be stock replacements that would work fine with your stock adjuster sleeves. As a bonus since none of those need to be pressed in, you can do all of that with a good socket set, a breaker bar and/or impact wrench, and a pickle fork and/or big hammer to unseat all the tapers on the ball joints. And a torque wrench to get everything snugged up. Awesome. Thanks for the info. I'll get them on order. It is even many hundreds of dollars less than I was expecting. Hopefully I'll be done with this by next weekend. Or I'll be dead, crushed by the pumpkin. Either way, kick rear end.
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Nov 23, 2019 07:05
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The Door Frame posted:Here's series of dumb questions, what did BMW call its wagons for the US markets, or did we ever even get them? How dumb is it to buy a E38 BMW, ideally a V12, but the V8 also? Do those round 20 pin to OBDII adapters actually work with Torque, or is there special BMW software that I'd need? My E91 was called a Touring. The model was 325xit. x for xdrive (AWD), i for fuel injection?, t for touring.
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Nov 23, 2019 07:30
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Nyyen posted:Awesome. Thanks for the info. I'll get them on order. It is even many hundreds of dollars less than I was expecting. Hopefully I'll be done with this by next weekend. Or I'll be dead, crushed by the pumpkin. Either way, kick rear end. I must re-emphasize something posted to you earlier. Don't tighten things too much while in the air. Get everything snug and then torque all the poo poo to spec when the wheels are sitting on the ground and its all flat and level. Some stuff will be a pain in the rear end, but its better for bushings etc, which means all that stuff will last longer. Also, it might not be that necessary, but I'd also suggest re-torquing stuff a week or two later. Or after like a couple hundred miles.
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Nov 23, 2019 17:16
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The Door Frame posted:Here's series of dumb questions, what did BMW call its wagons for the US markets, or did we ever even get them? My 2016 3-series is called a 328i xDrive Sports Wagon. It's an F31 versus the couple F30. They came in 328i and 328d (diesel) varieties. I'm not sure if we got the 335 wagon. I don't think the new 3 series wagon is coming here.
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Nov 23, 2019 17:45
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Nyyen posted:Awesome. Thanks for the info. I'll get them on order. It is even many hundreds of dollars less than I was expecting. Hopefully I'll be done with this by next weekend. Or I'll be dead, crushed by the pumpkin. Either way, kick rear end. Leave the ball joints alone until you know for sure they're a part of the problem. If you're going to replace them you should ONLY use Spicer parts. If you must use aftermarket balljoints then ONLY use one without a splined body or you'll wipe out the bores in the inner C like I did. My guess is that the track bar at the axle side was causing your DW issues - that plus new tie rods oughta make your jeep drive quite a bit better.
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Nov 23, 2019 18:27
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Astonishing Wang posted:Leave the ball joints alone until you know for sure they're a part of the problem. If you're going to replace them you should ONLY use Spicer parts. If you must use aftermarket balljoints then ONLY use one without a splined body or you'll wipe out the bores in the inner C like I did. Thankfully they didn't have any visible play in them so I think I'm in the clear there. I figure with the track bar and all the steering tie rod ends being replaced I should get the main issue and any up and coming ones at the same time. Not even that expensive to my surprise. wesleywillis posted:I must re-emphasize something posted to you earlier. Don't tighten things too much while in the air. Get everything snug and then torque all the poo poo to spec when the wheels are sitting on the ground and its all flat and level. Some stuff will be a pain in the rear end, but its better for bushings etc, which means all that stuff will last longer. Thanks for this. I'll make sure to do this. I honestly had missed when you said it before so would have done it wrong.
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Nov 23, 2019 18:35
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