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wolrah posted:Well that's the reason I wasn't sure about what I've seen so far in DIYs, her car is a second-gen Matrix which has discs in the back, but all the DIYs have been for first-gen Matrix/Vibe or similar Corollas with drums. In that case, you'll need to remove the caliper and caliper bracket first, but still not set the parking brake (it'll be a drum-in-hat setup). Otherwise it should be pretty similar. Hopefully you can wiggle the hub/bearing out without disassembling the parking brake. It'll still have the threaded holes to pop the disc off.
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Nov 23, 2019 18:59
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Nyyen posted:Thanks for this. I'll make sure to do this. I honestly had missed when you said it before so would have done it wrong. With your setup and the parts you are replacing so far, the only one this is critical for is the axle side track bar bushing. Everything else you are replacing, including the other end of the track bar, is a tapered fit ball joint, so no worries about binding those up.
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Nov 23, 2019 19:05
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STR posted:In that case, you'll need to remove the caliper and caliper bracket first, but still not set the parking brake (it'll be a drum-in-hat setup). Otherwise it should be pretty similar. Hopefully you can wiggle the hub/bearing out without disassembling the parking brake. It'll still have the threaded holes to pop the disc off. Anyways being an automatic the parking brake has basically never been used other than when I was recalibrating it after replacing the rear pads, so remembering not to set it shouldn't be an issue either way.
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Nov 23, 2019 19:47
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Ah, gotcha. I'm used to most Toyotas using the drum in hat setup. The setup you have isn't bad, it's just annoying having to twist the piston back in when you do a brake job. That said, I have an automatic, and still use the parking brake every time. I think more because I've driven manual for most of my life. I also drive GF's Matrix occasionally, which is manual (it's the super base model, the only options are floor mats and a cargo net.. it doesn't even have a rear wiper), so I try to stay in the habit of using it.
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Nov 23, 2019 19:53
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STR posted:That said, I have an automatic, and still use the parking brake every time. I think more because I've driven manual for most of my life. I also drive GF's Matrix occasionally, which is manual (it's the super base model, the only options are floor mats and a cargo net.. it doesn't even have a rear wiper), so I try to stay in the habit of using it.
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Nov 23, 2019 20:23
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Doesn't really go in any other thread, but  happened here? Both bulbs replaced a few weeks ago (one was burned out when I got the car). Both still light up, but for obvious reasons, one is super dim now. They're both Sylvania 194LL from the same blister pack.There's a bit of corrosion on the plug for the bulb that silvered itself, but I don't think the corrosion could have heated the bulb up enough to do THAT (especially since the socket didn't melt). I threw in some old 194 LEDs I had sitting around, and had trouble getting the one in that socket to light reliably until I took a file to the contacts in the plug.  Getting reaaaaaaaaal tired of being pulled over for lights out on this car. First it was a plate light, then it was a combination brake/parking light (which seems to have fixed itself after I reseated the bulb  ), then it was the same loving plate light again (too dim to actually emit light unless you looked right at the housing). Note: the car has 2 plate lights, TX requires one, but the cops in my suburb are bored.
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Nov 23, 2019 21:00
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wolrah posted:It is actually the caliper-based parking brake requiring that hateful loving twist tool, so good and bad. I have definitely wrecked a drum-in-hat setup once before when I forgot to release the parking brake before hammering the rotor off... I've taken to grabbing the master brake kit from Advance when doing those. Proper tools make that job so much easier. If any of my cars had them I might buy one.
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Nov 23, 2019 21:18
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2008 Saturn vue with 130k miles has a problem with its rear brake light. I noticed a week ago that the drivers side brake light was out. I bought a pair of replacement lights, one for each side, and replaced them both, figuring that if the drivers side was out, it wouldn’t be long until the passenger side went. Today someone pulled up to me and side the drivers side was still out. Note: I didn’t bother checking when I replaced the bulb to see if it worked-whoops. Now, could this be a fuse problem? The way I’m reading online is that the fuse usually controls both lights, so I’m wondering if it’s a wiring issue or something else.
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Nov 23, 2019 22:33
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If it uses a 3175 (dual filament combination tail/brake/signal bulb) its possible you have the base inserted backwards. While the base will engage in both directions, sometimes the contacts in the socket don't line up unless you insert the bulb one way instead of the other.
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Nov 23, 2019 23:10
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Geoj posted:If it uses a 3175 (dual filament combination tail/brake/signal bulb) its possible you have the base inserted backwards. It uses 3157LL
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Nov 23, 2019 23:25
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Flipping the bulb around 180* is worth a shot. If that doesn't fix it, get a volt meter and see if you're getting 12-14v at the socket. Its also possible you got a defective bulb.
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Nov 23, 2019 23:28
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Couple of dumb questions: Is a dashboard something you can snag at a Pick n' Pull? And is replacing a dashboard within the realm of a beginner's job? My folks have a 2011 Sonata with a dashboard that has terrible cracking (seems common for the model). I'd like to try and replace it over the holidays if possible, and replace their blown out speakers at the same time.
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Nov 24, 2019 04:54
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Torque says 134 HP @ ~4500 rpm, specs say 209 HP @ 5000 rpm 0-60mph = 11.5s, specs 8.6s I forgot to add in ~200 lbs of driver plus random stuff, thats about 5% Google says automatic transmission is 86% on the low end 134 * 1.05 / .86 = 163 HP which seems pretty low I haven't used torque is awhile and I haven't do any kind of calibration beyond entering vehicle stats. Am I thinking about this right? How do I go about finding where the power leaked out? e: I think the weight I used also doesn't include 3rd row seating, premium sound, nav, and a few other things that probably add up to a 100-200 lbs taqueso fucked around with this message at 11:15 on Nov 24, 2019 |
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Nov 24, 2019 11:01
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Hughmoris posted:Couple of dumb questions: Yanking a dash is about one of the most worst car jobs ever. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Nov 24, 2019 |
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Nov 24, 2019 14:17
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C-Bangin' it 
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Hughmoris posted:Couple of dumb questions: Colostomy Bag posted:Yanking a dash is about one of the most car jobs ever. Seconding. Here's a video for a 2012 Sonata: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWrIT-TVXgQ If your parent's crash pad is cracked, chances are, most of the ones you will find at a pick & pull will also be, or will wait until you get the thing practically out before it decides to crack. It's worth a look, even so, since replacements from Hyundai run about $1200.00 It's a long job, labor-intensive; you may wish to write down the order of removal so that you don't miss anything on reassembly. I've done it to replace a heater core. I learned after that experience that the heater core/HVAC system seems to be the very first element installed on the assembly line. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Nov 24, 2019 |
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Nov 24, 2019 16:56
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nwin posted:2008 Saturn vue with 130k miles has a problem with its rear brake light. Not a fuse. Swap the bulbs side to side (after trying flipping it around 180 degrees) and have a helper watch the bulbs when you step on the brakes (or have it backed up near something where you can tell if the light is working). Also check to see if they come on with the parking lights. And this may not be something you'd think of, but try the brake light both with the parking lights off and the parking lights on. If the socket (or bulb) has lost a ground, then one or the other will work (slightly dimmer than normal), but go off completely when you step on the brake with the lights on. If you get a parking light working, with a bulb that goes completely off when you step on the brakes, and a working brake light if the parking lights are off, you've lost the ground to that socket. If the parking light only works, period, then you got a bad bulb (this is why you try swapping side to side) or you've lost a connection to the brighter filament in that socket. It's most likely the bulb or the socket; you can usually clean up the contacts in the socket with a little sandpaper, and bend then closed a little with needle nose pliers. If that doesn't work, use a multimeter in DC mode to check the socket for power with someone sitting on the brake, also check while parking lights on are (both on the side that the bulb goes into, and on the back side where the wires enter - you'll see the crimped on connectors). You have 3 wires - 1 is ground, 1 is parking, 1 is brake.
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Nov 24, 2019 17:39
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I've got a 95 Buick Roadmaster sedan. Body on frame, RWD, pretty classic GM suspension. It has the soft stock suspension. If I install stiffer springs and shocks in the rear is this going to have an adverse effect on handling? I'm planning on rebuilding the front suspension as well, but the rear is relatively simple and I could get that done now while I'm getting things together for the front.
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Nov 24, 2019 18:02
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I'd try to do the front and rear at the same time, that way the handling is a lot more predictable. Also, you only have to get it aligned once that way. Expect it to be firmer and a bit more bouncy, even if you were going with stock suspension. Going with new suspension always makes you realize just how worn out your existing springs and shocks/struts were. If you go ahead and do the rear first anyway, I'd expect the back to try to skip over bumps when you're going around curves or turns a bit easier, but probably feel a bit more planted so long as you're not going with super stiff springs. I plan to do the rear first on my car as well (but more because it's dragging its got saggy rear end bad enough to affect rear wheel camber), though I plan to go with the cheapest poo poo possible just to restore ride height and (hopefully) get rid of it bottoming out on speed bumps.
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Nov 24, 2019 18:13
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PainterofCrap posted:Seconding. Holy canoli, that looks busy. They might have to just deal with the cosmetic eyesore.
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Nov 24, 2019 18:22
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Hughmoris posted:Holy canoli, that looks busy. They might have to just deal with the cosmetic eyesore. Yeah, we aren't joking. Usually step one on getting a random dash out is one line. It will say: 1) Remove most of frontal interior.
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Nov 24, 2019 18:29
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I thought it was more "Step 1: remove car from dash"
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Nov 24, 2019 19:05
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I have a stinger GT2 , AWD The tires are different from the front to the rear, size wise. Does rotating them left to right do anything. Is it worth it ?
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Nov 24, 2019 20:46
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I would, yes. Assuming they're not directional, of course.
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Nov 24, 2019 20:55
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Most of the extended life you get out of tire rotation is moving tires back and forth from the driven wheels. Won't hurt, but assuming your alignment is good its not going to massively extend the life of the tires. One of the drawbacks of running wider tires on the rear wheels.
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Nov 24, 2019 21:16
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Related to my last post, can anyone recommend a good general book about ICE design, performance, and tuning? I'm thinking something engine agnostic that I can read to get some base knowledge on everything, maybe a textbook.
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Nov 24, 2019 23:12
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taqueso posted:Related to my last post, can anyone recommend a good general book about ICE design, performance, and tuning? I'm thinking something engine agnostic that I can read to get some base knowledge on everything, maybe a textbook. As someone who learned everything he knows through experience, old greybeards, and the internet, I too would be interested in something like this. Would be interesting to see how many false concepts I've taken for granted over the years.
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Nov 24, 2019 23:15
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Gouged a chunk off one of the panels of my 2018 Hyundai Ioniq.  Can see some exposed metal there. I assume there was a layer of plastic or fiberglass under the paint that got chipped away Was trying to avoid filing a claim as we already had one within the last year and I'm thinking about fixing it myself. I was looking at the various dent repair kits in Autozone and watching the videos for them and it doesn't seem too crazy... Is this doable or is it just going to be a huge mess? Is there any specific product that would be best for this type of thing?
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Nov 25, 2019 06:15
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Ouch that looks pretty nasty. What's the diameter of the area missing paint? I can't imagine being right on top of that corner is going to make it any easier.
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Nov 25, 2019 06:50
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That widest point is maybe 1.5 to 2 inches. Yeah... I'm thinking if I do it it'll definitely not look like new, but maybe just getting it to not super noticeable would be good
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Nov 25, 2019 06:54
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That's gonna have to get filled in with Bondo, sanded down and repainted.
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Nov 25, 2019 07:41
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spankmeister posted:That's gonna have to get filled in with Bondo, sanded down and repainted. It’s on a body line, it’s going to be impossible for a beginner to recreate that line. op: that’s either replace it if you’re doing it yourself, or an insurance claim. They may even replace it too depending on the cost of a replacement fender.
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Nov 25, 2019 12:14
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unnoticed posted:Gouged a chunk off one of the panels of my 2018 Hyundai Ioniq. Don't forget you can just go to a body shop and get a quote from them and pay out of pocket. Avoids a claim, but likely to be more expensive than your deductible.
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Nov 25, 2019 15:33
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StormDrain posted:Don't forget you can just go to a body shop and get a quote from them and pay out of pocket. Avoids a claim, but likely to be more expensive than your deductible. Yeah, I did that once when I was a dumbass and backed into something and broke a taillight.
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Nov 25, 2019 15:42
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unnoticed posted:2018 Hyundai Ioniq.] I don’t know the car all that well, is that a fender or a quarter panel? If it’s a fender, there are sellers on eBay and elsewhere that sell painted body panels. It’s likely that won’t match 100% in direct sunlight at some angles, but everything bolts up. Just make sure you do a little research and figure out which plastic clips and poo poo you’ll need, because there’s basically zero chance you won’t break at least a few of them. If it’s a quarter, and part of the unibody, then definitely don’t take this lightly- it might be worth farming out to get it done well enough that you won’t have premature corrosion issues down the road. Did you buy the car used? That looks suspiciously like bondo under the paint. E: I’m not sure how DIY you’re feeling about this, adjust accordingly.
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Nov 25, 2019 15:56
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glyph posted:I don’t know the car all that well, is that a fender or a quarter panel? It's definitely the fender. The amber turn signal in the corner was my tip-off. Really would be curious to know why there's body filler on that fender.
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Nov 25, 2019 16:02
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07 Crown Vic, door hinges groan pretty bad lately. Are they at all replaceable, or is that a whole-door swap kinda job? e: or maybe they just need greasing with something?
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Nov 25, 2019 16:12
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spankmeister posted:That's gonna have to get filled in with Bondo, sanded down and repainted. Again. It was obviously already hit and repaired in the past.
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Nov 25, 2019 16:15
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Fender Anarchist posted:07 Crown Vic, door hinges groan pretty bad lately. Are they at all replaceable, or is that a whole-door swap kinda job? e: or maybe they just need greasing with something? Lithium grease in a spray can. Spray them and close/open the door a few times to work it in. If it's still groaning, apply more and repeat.
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Nov 25, 2019 16:16
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I own a 2018 ioniq, they were released in 2017 and didn't sell in great numbers so finding a painted panel is unlikely. Getting a quote from a body shop may be worth doing though.
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Nov 25, 2019 16:24
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Autoexec.bat posted:I own a 2018 ioniq, they were released in 2017 and didn't sell in great numbers so finding a painted panel is unlikely. Getting a quote from a body shop may be worth doing though. I meant that there are vendors that will paint an aftermarket fender.
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Nov 25, 2019 16:40
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