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Motronic posted:Lithium grease in a spray can. Spray them and close/open the door a few times to work it in. If it's still groaning, apply more and repeat. Yep. Not like the 70's with 20 foot doors where you had door pins and bushings that would wear out due to weight of those monsters.
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Nov 25, 2019 16:41
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C-Bangin' it 
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Motronic posted:Again. Hmm, I don't think we had damage to that part before. The previous claim was just for the front bumper. I'll have to go back through my old pics and check though.
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Nov 25, 2019 17:25
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Coworker's vehicle. 2002 F-150, 4.6 Triton, 135k. Hard to start. Starter works fine, engine spins fine, new battery, when it finally does start it'll run for about 5 seconds before dying. Takes a couple more tries to get it to keep running, then it's fine until it sits awhile. No codes, no CEL. He said it usually takes 5-10 tries to get it to keep running. Also mentioned the fuel pump is noisy, but sounds "different" when the truck is refusing to start, so I'm assuming it has an aftermarket one (I know the OEM pump can't be heard inside the truck with it running). I'm assuming fuel pump. Any other guesses, since there's no codes or anything to give any hints? I suggested he rent a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up after it's been sitting overnight. If it is the pump, is it easier to pull the bed, or drop the tank? It also has a flaky oil pressure "gauge" (which most of us know are just a glorified dummy light on these), it often drops to 0 while driving, or it'll flick back and forth between nothing and normal. No knocking or unusual sounds from the motor, oil is at the proper level. Safe to assume the sending unit? I want to say I remember reading in these here forums that the sender is a common issue on Ferds, and that it takes very little pressure for it to hit normal?
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Nov 25, 2019 17:26
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:It’s on a body line, it’s going to be impossible for a beginner to recreate that line. Yeah, I've been watching Bondo videos and this might be a little tough for me. Maybe I'll take some of the other advice and just get a quote and see.
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Nov 25, 2019 17:27
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unnoticed posted:Hmm, I don't think we had damage to that part before. The previous claim was just for the front bumper. I'll have to go back through my old pics and check though. Whether it was discussed/disclosed or not, it very obviously happened. There is obvious body filler on the panel (the gray/green stuff between the paint and the panel) . That's not something that happens from the factory.
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Nov 25, 2019 18:09
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Motronic posted:Whether it was discussed/disclosed or not, it very obviously happened. There is obvious body filler on the panel (the gray/green stuff between the paint and the panel) . That's not something that happens from the factory. Yeah I see what you guys mean. Thinking back on it, it's possible that was scratched in the last incident and repaired, but I don't remember it being nearly that big of an area. Maybe they just had to sand out a lot more to fix it?
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Nov 25, 2019 18:18
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STR posted:Coworker's vehicle. 2002 F-150, 4.6 Triton, 135k. Eh, try this first after verifying fuel pressure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3b8gEtw1t7U
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Nov 25, 2019 18:24
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Motronic posted:Again. Seconded, that green stuff is body filler. Autoexec.bat posted:I own a 2018 ioniq, they were released in 2017 and didn't sell in great numbers so finding a painted panel is unlikely. ... That may explain the use of body filler.
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Nov 25, 2019 20:41
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STR posted:Coworker's vehicle. 2002 F-150, 4.6 Triton, 135k. Could be the pump, could be a clogged filter. As for the oil gauge dropping to zero, it could be sensor or it could be the electrical connector. I had a worn out push-on connector that fit on my F150's sensor, but that was a much older F150, a 1988.
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Nov 25, 2019 21:06
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I want to get some high-temp wire and 2-conductor cable to go in the engine bay, where is a good place to buy that where I can be sure I won't get some knockoff crap?
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Nov 25, 2019 21:12
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taqueso posted:I want to get some high-temp wire and 2-conductor cable to go in the engine bay, where is a good place to buy that where I can be sure I won't get some knockoff crap? I just got a promotion from wiring depot.com and if I recall it was good stuff.
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Nov 25, 2019 22:01
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Works for me, thanks.
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Nov 25, 2019 22:53
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2011 ford escape My girlfriend wanted me to do some homework on remote start options for the above vehicle. I have never owned a car with remote starters but know a ton of aftermarket kits exist with varying levels of install complexity. Can anyone give me the low down on whether or not it's an easy addition to a car without a factory remote start system? Any decent manufacturers to check out and what I should be on the lookout for?
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Nov 26, 2019 01:34
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Basically, can be done aftermarket but only if you're OK with the idea of disabling the immobilizer/passive anti-theft system, which is a transponder buried in the key fob that tells the car "OK to start" and makes it impossible to hotwire the car without the key. Most aftermarket remote starts get around PATS by zip-tying an uncut but programmed key inside the steering column. Alternatively, if remote start was a factory option the dealership may be able to add the OEM equipment, but this would be  expensive.
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Nov 26, 2019 01:38
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Then there's adding remote start to a manual transmission...
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Nov 26, 2019 05:35
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That model year escape has a plug and play system https://www.12volt.solutions/products/copy-of-2007-2012-ford-escape-remote-start-plug-and-play-kit The install looks pretty easy
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Nov 26, 2019 13:40
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Beach Bum posted:As someone who learned everything he knows through experience, old greybeards, and the internet, I too would be interested in something like this. Would be interesting to see how many false concepts I've taken for granted over the years. Check your PMs
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Nov 26, 2019 18:37
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kid sinister posted:Then there's adding remote start to a manual transmission... Hits button, car lurches forward into back wall of garage.
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Nov 26, 2019 18:54
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If only there was a way to detect if the car was in gear 
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Nov 26, 2019 19:01
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taqueso posted:If only there was a way to detect if the car was in gear Yeah but then you have to leave it in neutral and rely solely on the handbrake, which you shouldn’t. 
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Nov 26, 2019 19:04
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cr0y posted:2011 ford escape Here's the official system: https://accessories.ford.com/catalog/product/view/id/8834/s/series-100-one-button-remote-start-system-for-use-with/category/285/ And it is installed on my Wife's same year escape. Works a treat. Interesting note that it requires the dome lights to be in door mode, not off or on, to work. I assume it relies on that for anti theft because when you open a door it turns the vehicle off.
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Nov 26, 2019 19:20
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If only they could rely on the door switches.  (I keep my dome light off, but cargo light in auto... there's puddle lights on my car that come on regardless though)
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Nov 26, 2019 19:29
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STR posted:If only they could rely on the door switches. Yeah but then it'd have to be a two contact door switch rather than just grounding it out. They saved pennies on this! Also what are you doing with your dope scope off all the time, I thought only cops did that. I went out of my way adding a door switch to my IH after driving it in December and hating starting it in the dark twice a day. Also the cab I got fenders and a hood from had factory door switches which seems drat fancy, and mine was the deluxe trim. I felt cheated.
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Nov 26, 2019 19:43
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My car has a light around the ignition switch, and pretty much every control is illuminated in some way (except for turn signals, wiper switches, mirror switches, and power lock switches; even the driver's power window switch lights up - basically stuff you know by muscle memory isn't illuminated). I also tend to eat my lunch in the car at work (30 min break - want to get outside, but sit on a comfy seat - generally do so with the door open, very occasionally with the engine on if I want heat or AC). If I want more light, I turn on a map light (which is much brighter, or at least, more focused, than the dome light). The dome light is seriously dim on this car - it's quite a bit brighter with the doors open, but once you close them, it cuts down to ~50% brightness (so basically a candle), then quickly fades out. I also generally just don't like people seeing what I'm doing in the car. If I get pulled over I immediately turn on the dome light and map lights, but otherwise I don't like lights on in the car (I keep the dash on the dimmest, not quite dark, setting, for example). The cargo light is even worse; I really need to find an LED panel that'll fit in the housing, because I can barely make out the cargo cover with the hatch open randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Nov 26, 2019 |
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Nov 26, 2019 20:47
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I added a few LED strip lights inside the top of my Jeep so that the Mexican Federales can find my weed as quickly as possible and let me be on my way.
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Nov 26, 2019 22:37
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I got some C5W festoon LED replacement bulbs. They work OK in the footwells, but the dome lights are PWM controlled and these have some flashing going on that isn't visible with incandescent. And when the car is running but the lamps are turned off, these are shining very dimly. I'm guessing the Off PWM state actually has a very small duty cycle like 0.5%. Oddly, no flashing when that's happening. Can someone recommend another brand to try? This car needs a bunch of these bulbs so inexpensive is appreciated but if I know they'll work I'd spring for OSRAM or something.
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Nov 26, 2019 22:50
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I have the same problem with Super Bright LEDs.com. In one car I have two festoon bulbs on the dome and I left one incandescent, and that seemed to kill the glowing problem (it was actually very bright). In my Mazda, the glow is miniscule and behind my head instead of in front of it, so I ignore it. It does change when I lock the doors and stuff. Edit: I don't know what to do about the PWM. It happens as I open or close the door, so I ignore it. Edit 2: are you sensitive to PWM flicker or is it just really bad? If you don't notice car taillights and phone backlights the superbrightleds might not bother you. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Nov 27, 2019 |
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Nov 26, 2019 23:58
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I like Sylvania's ZEVO line for anything LED/automotive; but I'm not finding a C5W. Is there another name those go by?
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Nov 27, 2019 00:06
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Looking at cross-references, check for 64xx - like 6411, 6418 or 34xx - 3423, 3425, etc. Alternatively, any festoon bulb that measures within a mm of the one you currently have should work. e: https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-Festoon-Interior-Lighting-Contains/dp/B01A77TM0Y/
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Nov 27, 2019 00:19
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Krakkles posted:I like Sylvania's ZEVO line for anything LED/automotive; but I'm not finding a C5W. Is there another name those go by? SYLVANIA - DE3175 31mm ZEVO LED Festoon White Bulb - Bright LED Bulb, Ideal for Interior Lighting - Map, Dome, Trunk, Cargo and License Plate (Contains 1 Bulb) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BDWHXI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3hC3DbG7KKHV8 It’s this or something close to it. I found it by looking up the dimensions of the C5W (31mm length) and working from there.
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Nov 27, 2019 01:26
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2006 xB I noticed there is no belt on the a/c compressor. Did PO buy the wrong belt or do people unbelt them when they don't want to pay for fixing their a/c? Guess I should have someone check for vacuum before spinning a system I know zero history of. Will move to A/C thread if I don't get to it before summer.
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Nov 27, 2019 14:39
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The latter - the compressor and clutch probably locked up solid and rather than fix it, they bypassed the belt.
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Nov 27, 2019 14:46
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Looks I've got another part for my shopping list after I confirm. Thanks
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Nov 27, 2019 14:59
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2007 Detroit 60 ooooh ok my Dad's semi broke down. Loud bang, oil which was just changed is now a thick chocolatey texture. He and the shop say it's a blown head gasket. That's turbofucked right? Not even the best headgasket sealer in the world is going to have much chance of stopping coolant from entering the oil right? Junkyard offering him $2000
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Nov 28, 2019 03:52
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Chunjee posted:Junkyard offering him $2000 For the motor only? Take it. For the rig.....what is it? A city cab fifth wheel is a lot different than an aluminum body triaxle.
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Nov 28, 2019 06:53
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For the whole rig, there is no trailer. I don't know much about the cab. Freightliner fiberglass. There is an upper and lower bunkbed. It's red. If it costs less than $1000 to tow it back to the city I'm recommending that. Junkyard wants the title which hints to me they aren't really going to part it out. Chunjee fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Nov 28, 2019 |
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Nov 28, 2019 14:06
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Chunjee posted:For the whole rig, there is no trailer. I don't know much about the cab. Freightliner fiberglass. There is an upper and lower bunkbed. It's red. They need the title to keep it legal, otherwise they'd be flooded with stolen y2k Honda civics.
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Nov 28, 2019 14:39
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Yeah why would a junkyard take a car without a title? You can’t (legally) sell parts off a car you don’t legally own.
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Nov 28, 2019 14:44
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Chunjee posted:2007 Detroit 60 I mean... a head gasket job isn't the end of the world on a big truck - even a full engine rebuild is something you often do without pulling the engine out. How many miles on the motor since the last rebuild? If this is his living, it's probably worth fixing the motor so long as it hasn't had a failure beyond a head gasket and the truck is in otherwise good shape (though an 07 would probably be way up there in miles). If trucking isn't his main source of income, then yeah, junk it. But this sounds like an over the road truck, not a city cab, since you mentioned it has a sleeper. Headgasket sealer in a bottle is, for the most part, snake oil. Some of the expensive stuff will sometimes limp it along a bit longer, but if it's already got significant oil/coolant mixing, it's not gonna do anything except clog up the radiator and heater core. Junkyards don't take complete vehicles without a title. They also submit the title info to the state showing that the vehicle has been junked, unless the junkyard thinks they can fix it or flip it. Pick n Pull (and I'm sure other yards) will sometimes put cars that run fine on their "builder" lot - they usually need interior work and maybe minor body work, but mechanically they're typically something that'll get you to work and back (they're also dirt cheap, and sold as-is - generally they're cars that aren't worth much more than scrap even in driving condition). I doubt a lot that takes a big truck would do that. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Nov 28, 2019 |
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Nov 28, 2019 17:26
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900,000 miles. He doesn't know when the last major rebuild was. I just arrived on site. Oil doesn't look as bad as I imagined. Think he's going with the deal on the table though.
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Nov 28, 2019 18:00
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