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Stormgale posted:1) That is the SE version of the D15, it was a special edition containing the AM4 mounting hardware (For when AM4 was new and the base D15 didn't yet). I can't remember if the SE has for the Z390 but a regular D15 will. #1 - Thanks. As MaxxBot listed above as as well, I will get the standard Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler. #2 - Got it, thank you for confirming.
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Nov 30, 2019 00:50
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PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($252.97 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus GRYPHON Z97 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($135.08 @ Amazon) Storage: Intel 730 Series 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($570.00 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB Video Card ($635.00 @ Amazon) Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($149.99 @ B&H) Power Supply: SeaSonic 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($128.45 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($139.99 @ Amazon) Total: $2036.47 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-29 18:54 EST-0500 I live in the United States and use the computer for gaming and photo editing. I have had the above system for about 5 years and it has served me pretty well but feel it is time for an upgrade. I am hoping to spend about 600 dollars to at least get a more recent processor, ram, and PCIe SSD for fast photo editing and boot up times. I also would like to be able to play death stranding, Cyberpunk when it comes out on very high or ultra settings, I primarily game on 4k but am okay with lowering the resolution to 1440p if needed. I also own an Oculus rift and do enjoy VR gaming from time to time. I wonder if I should just get a PCIE SSD and an adapter and hold off for a while, but my CPU generation is fairly old and upgrading to Ryzen may get me a lot snappier performance. I think it would be very nice to have USB compatibility on the mobo and case if able as I use apple for everything else but can't justify the price of their desktops. lollybo fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Nov 30, 2019 |
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Nov 30, 2019 00:52
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Once again considering doing a build for VR since the Oculus Rift S is on sale. Is there a sweet midrange spot for building a whole new machine for gaming without monitor, keyboard, mouse etc? requirements: - I would probably want a machine that would obsolete more slowly on the processing end, so maybe a CPU+MB closer to the high end, but definitely looking at the mid-range sweet spot for a GPU so I can upgrade in a couple of years. Maybe better than the 1070 I have in my current machine, but If the GPU cost ends up being more than $500 without significant improvements over a 1070, I might as well just reuse the 1070 and upgrade GPU in a year or so. It should be able to run Overwatch at 144hz on high settings, and stuff like modded Skyrim, The Witcher 3, etc on max or close to max settings at 60 FPS at 1440 or 1080 if that is too unreasonable. And of course, not struggle with VR games. My refresh rate is 1x144hz@1440p and 1x60hz@1080p right now. - pref 1x 1tb SSD and 1 larger multimedia storage drive. My current machine has something like 10 TB worth of storage, but some of those drives are 5+ years old, so i'll prob get an 8tb external and backup a lot of the files, then just have less multimedia as a whole on my actual internals. - Efficient and sufficient but not overly complicated cooling. I've never done anything like water cooling. - If I reuse my 1070, I will also reuse my PSU (fairly new), otherwise, I need a new PSU. - Good memory sticks (16gb is still sufficient, I think) - I'm not too savvy on overclocking stuff, but if the machine does so effortlessly without any risk, that's always a plus. Budget should be $1k - 1.5k
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Nov 30, 2019 00:52
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Stickman posted:If you're running at 1440p with settings maxed, the 9900k vs 3700x is something like a 0-8% performance boost even with a 2080 ti (a 3700x performs similarly to a 3900x in games). A 3700x + Asus TUF X570 would save you ~$250 even over MaxxBot's tweaks ($200 if you opt for a non-essential Scythe Mugen 5 over the stock cooler). My reasoning is that 9900k may be a bit stronger in a short term when coupled with 2080 TI specifically, while also lasting for a while with the next 1-2 gen of Nvidia cards, so I can ride it out for a few (couple?) of years. I'll do a bit more reading in the next couple of days.
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Nov 30, 2019 00:57
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What (Nvidia) Card would best match the AMD Ryzen 5 3600X? I think I figured out all the others parts. 
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Nov 30, 2019 01:01
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Zedd posted:What (Nvidia) Card would best match the AMD Ryzen 5 3600X? I think I figured out all the others parts. 1440p or 1080p?
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Nov 30, 2019 01:07
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ItBreathes posted:1440p or 1080p?
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Nov 30, 2019 01:20
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black.lion posted:Hey friends! Looking to update my system over the next few months, my HD + SSD + PSU + Case + RAM situation are fine but the mobo/CPU/GPU could use an update, and it's been awhile since I was keeping up with PC parts so not sure what to get. Plz halp ill spend more on parts idc
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Nov 30, 2019 02:58
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Okay, so I just realized I will need a wifi card. Are there any recommendations on that front?
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Nov 30, 2019 03:50
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Zedd posted:1440 for mostly "slower" games. probs putting ingame resolution to 1080p when using my 4K TV as screen. 2070S for 1440p >60fps, 2060S for being the only step down that doesn't cost $500. On the AMD front the 5700 is basically a 2060S but cheaper, and the 5700XT is 7-10% slower than the 2070S but much cheaper. If you're OK with upscaling from 1080p the 1660S is a solid choice, but it'll have trouble doing higher resolutions natively. Fantastic Foreskin fucked around with this message at 04:39 on Nov 30, 2019 |
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Nov 30, 2019 04:24
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black.lion posted:Plz halp ill spend more on parts idc You're screwed over by the gsync monitors. On the GPU front, 2070S for 1440p >60fps, 2060S for being the only step down that doesn't cost $500. On the CPU side, a 3600. Some people think that 6/12 CPUs won't last long because the next gen of consoles are 8 core and are buying 3700. Personally, I'd rather have the money in my pocket now and buy a newer, faster CPU if/when that comes to pass, but if you're really opposed to the idea of opening your computer in the next 5 years a 3700 might last longer. And a MSI Tomahawk MAX to go with either. If your PSU is as old as the rest of your build you should probably replace it too. If it had a >6 year warranty maybe keep it until it runs out, but it would be a bummer to see new parts go when an old PSU fails.
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Nov 30, 2019 04:43
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Tallgeese posted:Okay, so I just realized I will need a wifi card. C-c-c-combo post. Getting recommendations on WiFi cards ITT is hard, most people don't have them and they don't get reviewed like other parts. Just get a card from one of the major players (TP-Link, ASUS, Linksys, etc) that supports the latest WiFi standards (or just whatever your router supports) and you'll be fine. If powerline ethernet is an option I can personally vouch it works a lot better than Wifi.
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Nov 30, 2019 04:47
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Tallgeese posted:Okay, so I just realized I will need a wifi card. What's motherboard are you buying (or have already bought)? Some have dedicated M.2 "E key" slots for mini wireless cards that you can pair with an antenna kit. Otherwise, Asus makes good PCIe cards. If you regularly use bluetooth you might want to spend a little extra for a bluetooth 5.0 card (this will also ensure you're buying a newer model). f you haven't bought a motherboard yet, you might be able to save a bit by buying one with built-in wifi.
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Nov 30, 2019 04:52
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PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($114.99 @ Walmart) Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5 g Thermal Paste ($6.15 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B450M GAMING PLUS Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($69.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($145.62 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($79.98 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Walmart) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($94.99 @ Best Buy) Case Fan: Fractal Design X2 GP-12 (Black) 52.3 CFM 120 mm Fan ($13.99 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Fractal Design X2 GP-12 (Black) 52.3 CFM 120 mm Fan ($13.99 @ Amazon) Total: $869.68 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-29 22:58 EST-0500 How's that look? I'll probably get a cheaper (used) GPU, but otherwise, opinions? Do I need to buy anything else, like a CPU cooler? (I have keyboard/mouse/monitor, but nothing else) logis fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Nov 30, 2019 |
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Nov 30, 2019 04:59
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ItBreathes posted:If powerline ethernet is an option I can personally vouch it works a lot better than Wifi. Do you mind elaborating on this a little more? My current condo is laid out kind of weird and running cable from the router which is at one end of the house to the other isn't really an option. Right now I have a small Wifi repeater acting as an extension WAP on the opposite side of the place but most weekday evenings and weekends it starts making GBS threads itself as everyone in the building comes home from work and well... Wifi everything.
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Nov 30, 2019 05:03
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I've decided that 2020 will be the year of building a new PC. My current PC is old af, and I'll probably be buying the parts over an extended period of time. Decided to ask now in case there's a chance I can pick up something a little cheaper during holiday sales. In general I just want to modernize my gaming PC. "Very acceptable for 1440p @ 120+hz" is what I'm looking for, but I can be swayed toward stronger or weaker machines if the price is right. Country: USA What system for: Gaming, browsing, some image editing but nothing crazy. I want to get it reasonably modernized. Budget: $1000-1500, which includes me getting a 1440p 144+hz monitor. If it costs more, that's fine, I'll just take more time in building the PC. Monitor: Currently my main is a cheap 1080p 75hz I bought back in 2016, looking to replace it with something nice. I've liked the high-hz, 27" 1440p monitors I've seen, but I don't have my eyes set on any particular one. Current PC: The case is a nightmare, the mobo makes me want to pull my hair out, the CPU is ancient by this point (i5-2500K@3.3Gz), The PSU has probably seen 5+ years of use, My SSD is fine but I want more space so I might as well grab one of them fancy NVMe M.2s anyway. Current video card is a GTX 1060 6GB, I'm looking for something that'll run a high-hz 1440p monitor "well enough." It doesn't have to be max settings max framerate for 2021's most unoptimized game of the year, and I'm perfectly fine with running things on lower settings or bumping the framerate down to 60 or so. With that said, if I can bump myself up into a higher tier of power for not-that-much-more money, I'll gladly consider. Gonna turn my current SSD into a secondary for a shiny new 1TB M.2. Don't need wifi for my mobo. Plenty of USB ports is good, and enough slots for whatever my PC needs. On-board sound. Plenty of video connections. I honestly don't know what else I should be thinking about. I'm fine with 16GB of RAM unless there's some incredible reason for more that I don't know about. Currently using DDR3, I'm guessing most modern mobos only want DDR4. Oh, and one thing is that I have a lot of monitors, and wouldn't mind having more. My current ones are all old and crappy and of different resolutions, but I don't mind that too much. Basically I've never seen more screenspace that I didn't like. Just thought I'd mention in case that still makes a difference for performance. Thanks, goons!
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Nov 30, 2019 05:08
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ItBreathes posted:C-c-c-combo post. Interesting. If I decide to go this route, what adapter would you recommend if I have a gigabit connection and want two Ethernet slots? Tallgeese fucked around with this message at 09:28 on Nov 30, 2019 |
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Nov 30, 2019 05:51
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Fabulousity posted:Do you mind elaborating on this a little more? My current condo is laid out kind of weird and running cable from the router which is at one end of the house to the other isn't really an option. Right now I have a small Wifi repeater acting as an extension WAP on the opposite side of the place but most weekday evenings and weekends it starts making GBS threads itself as everyone in the building comes home from work and well... Wifi everything. They're little modules you plug into a power outlet and then plug an ethernet cable into, letting you use the copper in your walls as an extension of your ethernet. Its not as fast as a direct ethernet connection, but its faster than WiFi (and you won't have to deal with your neighbors interference). They do need plugged directly into a socket (no powerstrips) and in old buildings with janky wiring they may have trouble. Theseamajigs. E:^^^^^ I have no recommendations on specific adapters, I just got a pair from one of Newegg's daily deals a couple years ago. They're pretty up-front about the specs of them, so I'd do some reading on what to actually expect and pick one from a major networking brand that fits your needs. EE: Stickman's right, the modules need linked so outsiders using your system is even less of a concern. It's been long enough since I set it up I forgot about it. Fantastic Foreskin fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Nov 30, 2019 |
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Nov 30, 2019 05:59
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If this works I will probably sing your praises to high heaven for weeks. It is absolutely ridiculous that I can't get more than something like 80mbps over AC wireless. If not: eh, easy return. Tallgeese fucked around with this message at 09:27 on Nov 30, 2019 |
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Nov 30, 2019 06:29
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Quick question: Are there any decent-looking motherboards out there, or is the whole industry moving to this hideous "EXTREEEME GAMERRRR!!!11!!!11!!" aesthetic and I'm just going to have to put up with it? I really don't give a drat about LED lighting effects; do any of these drat things have the option to turn them off?
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Nov 30, 2019 07:01
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My Asus Strix B450-I came with rgb lights and you can just turn them off in the BIOS. I don't think most motherboards come with lights at all.
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Nov 30, 2019 07:19
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ItBreathes posted:They're little modules you plug into a power outlet and then plug an ethernet cable into, letting you use the copper in your walls as an extension of your ethernet. Its not as fast as a direct ethernet connection, but its faster than WiFi (and you won't have to deal with your neighbors interference). They do need plugged directly into a socket (no powerstrips) and in old buildings with janky wiring they may have trouble. If you share wiring with your neighbors they could also use your internet by plugging a module in, but I wouldn't call that likely to happen. Cool, thanks for the added info. If I go this route I'd imagine I can deal with the neighbors by doing MAC address white listing at the router.
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Nov 30, 2019 07:26
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Neighbors on the same power network aren't a problem with powerline adapters because you have to sync the modules by pressing a physical button on each one. If your neighbors plug in powerline adapters on the same network they'll only sync to their own network, not yours (though you'll probably have packet interference). If that wasn't the case they'd be a serious security risk if your outdoor sockets are on the same network! But yeah, MAC whitelisting will secure you in the off-chance they somehow manage to sync. Stickman fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Nov 30, 2019 |
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Nov 30, 2019 07:36
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Meaty Ore posted:Quick question: Are there any decent-looking motherboards out there, or is the whole industry moving to this hideous "EXTREEEME GAMERRRR!!!11!!!11!!" aesthetic and I'm just going to have to put up with it? I really don't give a drat about LED lighting effects; do any of these drat things have the option to turn them off? I just bought an MSI MEG Unify partly because it doesn't have any of that gaudy poo poo. In fact, not a single part of my PC has LEDs except for the post code and the power button. It's marvelous.
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Nov 30, 2019 07:47
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KillHour posted:I just bought an MSI MEG Unify partly because it doesn't have any of that gaudy poo poo. In fact, not a single part of my PC has LEDs except for the post code and the power button. It's marvelous. MSI has just upped the retard factor on their RGB. There's no way to disable them on their Turing GPUs without having their RGB bloatware installed and running in the background. I can't even begin to describe just how dumb this is. At least with my previous Zotac 1070 I could just install the RGB software, disable all the lights, and then uninstall it for good. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Nov 30, 2019 08:29
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KillHour posted:I just bought an MSI MEG Unify partly because it doesn't have any of that gaudy poo poo. In fact, not a single part of my PC has LEDs except for the post code and the power button. It's marvelous. ^5 unify buddy, it looks like such a nice board
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Nov 30, 2019 12:03
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There is always a way to disable RGB on GPUs without installing software: find the RGB header under the shroud and physically disconnect it. Unfortunately motherboards often have the RGB soldered directly to the board so that isn't an option for them, but I haven't encountered one yet that couldn't be turned off in BIOS.
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Nov 30, 2019 13:25
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So I splurged and picked up a refurb Dell/Alienware RTX 2080 Ti for significantly under retail. It is a blower card but with some power management the noise is bearable. But now I think the rest of my PC is holding it back. I'm in Canada. I'm currently running: Intel i5 6600K OC'd to 4.4 GHz 16gb DDR4 @ 2700 MHz ASRock Pro4s motherboard 1440p/144hz monitor I see that the recommended build is a 3600, but from what I can tell the 3600 isn't an amazing upgrade from the 6600K. I mostly do gaming, some image editing on my machine. Right now with all the Black Friday/Cyber Monday crap I've been eyeing a new setup. I'm looking at a Ryzen 3700x, Tomahawk MAX motherboard, and 16GB of 3600 RAM for about $700 CAD. I could probably recoup about $300 from selling my current CPU/mobo/RAM. Would this be a substantial upgrade or am I better off along a different path?
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Nov 30, 2019 14:50
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Faded Mars posted:So I splurged and picked up a refurb Dell/Alienware RTX 2080 Ti for significantly under retail. It is a blower card but with some power management the noise is bearable. But now I think the rest of my PC is holding it back. If you do a lot of photoshop and you want that 2080ti to really stretch its legs at 144hz I think Intel might actually make more sense for you - photoshop is one of the very few productivity workloads where Intel has an advantage these days. Unfortunately the 9900K is really the only choice that makes sense in that case. Still, a 3700X is by no means a bad buy, but since the single thread performance is barely better than on the 3600, it's not all that much better in many games. You'll still get well over 100fps though, so if you have freesync/g-sync on your monitor it doesn't really matter that much if you're getting 120fps or 140. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Nov 30, 2019 |
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Nov 30, 2019 15:20
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ItBreathes posted:You're screwed over by the gsync monitors. On the GPU front, 2070S for 1440p >60fps, 2060S for being the only step down that doesn't cost $500. Thanks dude! 2070S should be doable budget-wise and I've had this i5 for 6 years so I'm sure I can make a 3600 work for awhile, Tomahawk looks neat but with that and teh 3600 I'm getting this warning on PCPartsPicker: PCPartsPicker posted:Warning! Some AMD B450 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Matisse CPUs. Upgrading the BIOS may require a different CPU that is supported by older BIOS revisions. Updating BIOS is something I'd really like to avoid, should I just ignore this warning and assume it's all going to be fine? Also got a warning about my RAM wanting a dif voltage than my CPU, so I guess I need new RAM? I do currently have DDR3 so I guess this is a good moment to upgrade... is 32gb still overkill? Bc I sorta want to just load up the memory while I'm doing it My PSU is only a year old so that should be good for awhile longer Here's my list (even tho I'm only buying the mobo/cpu/gpu/ram I threw my psu in and a random case bc I can't figure out which case I actually own rn) anything I should switch up?
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Nov 30, 2019 15:40
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black.lion posted:Updating BIOS is something I'd really like to avoid, should I just ignore this warning and assume it's all going to be fine? The tomahawk max is already updated to work with the Ryzen 3xxx chips so you're good there.
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Nov 30, 2019 16:44
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black.lion posted:Thanks dude! 2070S should be doable budget-wise and I've had this i5 for 6 years so I'm sure I can make a 3600 work for awhile, Tomahawk looks neat but with that and teh 3600 I'm getting this warning on PCPartsPicker: The 3600X is a tiny, tiny upgrade over the 3600 - it's on sale right now but if it stops being so by the time you order just get a 3600. Both come with a fine stock cooler, the X even moreso. You want the MAX version of the Tomahawk as it's guaranteed to come with an updated BIOS. Older boards may have an unsupported BIOS if they've been sitting on a warehouse shelf for several months, though multiple people have reported getting boards with an updated bios. The tomahawk can flash it's bios from just a USB stick anyways so it's a bit of a moot point, but may as well get the new thing. >16gb of RAM is still in the "you'd know if you needed it" category. RAM is cheap right now, but it's also super easy to add down the line. And yeah, new CPUs haven't supported DDR3 for several years now. Ryzen especially benefits from fast ram, so you'll want a kit in the 3000-3600 range. Getting one from the qualified vendor list (QVL) may give slightly better performance and compatibility for 3600 kits, though I personally wouldn't sweat it if you get a 3200 kit unless it's like the same price. On that note, a 3600kit only offers a couple of percent more performance than a 3200 kit, so I wouldn't pay more than a $5 premium for that either. That's a high quality PSUs and should be good for years and years to come.
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Nov 30, 2019 16:52
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MagusDraco posted:The tomahawk max is already updated to work with the Ryzen 3xxx chips so you're good there. He has the regular Tomahawk in the partspicker list so make sure you switch to the Tomahawk Max. It's only $5 more. Also better off with faster 3200mhz ram. 32 is overkill and it's easy to upgrade later anyway. https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Veng...MSD2QCK9VFGGFAW Mu Zeta fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Nov 30, 2019 |
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Nov 30, 2019 17:06
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Hey people. Doing a mid-life upgrade to my 2 year old computer. Going to put in a SSD and upgrade the memory. I've got 8Gb of DDR4. I was going to go ahead and order another 8Gb (2 x 4). All fully compatible, I have the slots free etc etc. Here's the thing though. For about a third extra I could buy (2 x 8) and have an extra 16Gb bringing it up to 24 rather than 16. Is that worth considering. Would I actually notice any gains over 24 vs 16 of RAM?
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Nov 30, 2019 18:40
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If the two sets of RAM have different speeds then both will run at the slower speed. So if you bought fancier 2x8 sticks it won't run as fast as it could if your 2x4gb is slower.
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Nov 30, 2019 18:55
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I'm not going to do any fancy business so I'm going to swap my x570 to a b450. What's the best picks for that?
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Nov 30, 2019 18:56
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Mu Zeta posted:If the two sets of RAM have different speeds then both will run at the slower speed. So if you bought fancier 2x8 sticks it won't run as fast as it could if your 2x4gb is slower. Identical speeds with the existing RAM, just one is 2x4 and the other the 2x8 version.
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Nov 30, 2019 19:11
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If the most intensive thing you do is games then16 is more than enough. But ram is cheap now. Just get it. Mu Zeta fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Nov 30, 2019 |
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Nov 30, 2019 19:27
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I'm kinda leaning that way, it ain't much more. Thanks.
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Nov 30, 2019 19:42
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