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4x4s are good for bouldering endurance. https://www.uphillathlete.com/bouldering-4-x-4-drills/
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Nov 17, 2019 20:59
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Got some pitches in today in Eldo. Nice to get outside. Nice to be trad climbing. Nice to know that I can still lead Eldo 5.8. 
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Nov 17, 2019 22:41
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KingColliwog posted:Your technique looks MUCH better VS other stuff you posted in the past. This looks really fun Thanks! I know I've gotten better, I'm just at this weird point where V5's feel positively impossible, and some V4's are either fairly easy, or "basically can't start it". Jester Mcgee posted:I'm pretty new, so take my advice with a grain of salt, but I was feeling about like you are, then I spent a few months lead climbing, and the increase in my endurance helped my bouldering a lot. I'd bet there are more bouldering specific endurance training methods, but I don't know them, and lead is fun anyways. Yeaaa I've been wanting to try out some sort of harness-based climbing, but I just haven't wanted to go through the class(es) at my gym to be able to do them :/ Bud Manstrong posted:4x4s are good for bouldering endurance. Unfortunately my gym is super crowded week nights, so I'll have to wait until... Probably December before I can try this  Hoping to get some outdoor climbing in this weekend, then traveling for Thanksgiving...On a related note - any advice for climbing in the cold? Weather looks like it should be 20-40ºF this weekend. I guess just wear lots of layers and get a good vacuum-sealed mug for a hot drink? Hopefully the rocks won't be covered in snow, but if so - is there any "etiquette" surrounding that or just brush it off and have it? e; Any of you folks in the Massachusetts/Rhode Island area, are you? That's where I'll be for Thanksgiving. I know there's a few gyms in MA but I was hoping to do some outdoor climbing while there if possible
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Nov 18, 2019 16:16
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Sab669 posted:I feel like I've really "plateaud" recently, but oh well. Still having fun You could do "one touch" drills, where you climb a route but have to keep your hand in the spot you initially grab a hold - no adjustments! It makes you think and aim and generally be a lot more intentional in your climbing than you might otherwise be.
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Nov 18, 2019 16:46
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Lincoln woods in RI is supposed to have pretty good bouldering, but I haven't had a chance to go there yet.
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Nov 18, 2019 17:11
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I'll have to practice one-touch tomorrow when I go. I've been trying to be more mindful of my foot placement but have neglected the hands. And yea I hear Lincoln Woods is good, too. I just Looked it all over on MP, will look up videos when I'm out of work tonight 
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Nov 18, 2019 17:57
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Starting to really like slopers
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Nov 20, 2019 01:56
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spwrozek posted:Got some pitches in today in Eldo. Nice to get outside. Nice to be trad climbing. Nice to know that I can still lead Eldo 5.8. Awesome dude! Which route? I don’t get out to eldo enough.
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Nov 20, 2019 03:10
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remote control carnivore posted:Awesome dude! Which route? I don’t get out to eldo enough. Long John wall with the break on through start. Yeah I hardly get there as the whole crowds and parking situation kind of sucks. But we were all alone Sunday.
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Nov 20, 2019 04:20
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I made my first trip to Tennessee wall yesterday. It won't be my last.  Jay Walker I sewed it up, I figure as long I was stuck in the crack why not take a secound and place some gear.  A view from the chains on Plastic Toys
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Nov 20, 2019 17:03
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Can anyone recommend a good rock gym in Vegas, preferably near the strip? I figure I'll ask here before trying a random one off Google. It'll be for some amateurs.
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Nov 25, 2019 22:38
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The gyms in Vegas are not good so it really doesn't matter.
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Nov 25, 2019 23:13
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spwrozek posted:The gyms in Vegas are not good so it really doesn't matter. Nice, now I won't feel bad for picking the wrong one
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Nov 26, 2019 00:14
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Hackan Slash posted:Can anyone recommend a good rock gym in Vegas, preferably near the strip? I figure I'll ask here before trying a random one off Google. It'll be for some amateurs. I climbed at the refuge last time I was in Vegas for a bit. It isn't too far from the south end of the strip but your uber drive will be a little sketched out by the location. I wasn't blown away by it but it did scratch the itch.
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Nov 26, 2019 01:07
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Origin is also good. Or just rent a pad and go to Kraft
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Nov 26, 2019 06:46
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:Origin is also good. Or just rent a pad and go to Kraft Headed to Vegas after Christmas. I havent climbed outside the gym before, but I have been considering doing some bouldering at Red Rock while in town. Suggestions? Just do some V0-V3 while at Kraft? Where/how do I rent a pad? Climbing buddies / popular times to go? Thanks.
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Nov 26, 2019 09:20
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Sab669 posted:e; Any of you folks in the Massachusetts/Rhode Island area, are you? That's where I'll be for Thanksgiving. I know there's a few gyms in MA but I was hoping to do some outdoor climbing while there if possible Seconding Lincoln Woods if you're already going to be in that area, weather looks clear but cold on both Friday and Saturday. The warm-up cave almost always has a crowd so it's easy to find people to tag along with. I don't typically climb outside below 40 degrees so I'll be at a CRG one of those afternoons if you decide to stay indoors.
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Nov 26, 2019 16:31
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Thanks! I just got to Lincoln RI to pick up some cash pad rentals from Rock Spot actually. What gyms do you climb at? I was gonna go to Central Rock in Worcester tomorrow
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Nov 26, 2019 17:04
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Typically Randolph and Boston because they are closest to home and work but I've tried all of them except for Worcester and Warwick due to distance. I've heard good things about the Worcester gym but 
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Nov 26, 2019 17:20
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I think a couple of the gyms rent pads. Kraft is super accessible and beginner friendly, but ideally you’d go with someone experienced or at least another inexperienced peer so you have a spotter. There will probably be other people there that would be happy to spot if you went alone, but I wouldn’t rely on strangers your first time ever outside. If you do decide to go out there, please read a few articles on etiquette for climbing outdoors.
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Nov 26, 2019 18:23
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Caf posted:Typically Randolph and Boston because they are closest to home and work but I've tried all of them except for Worcester and Warwick due to distance. Gotchya, yea the Boston area is a bit of a trek for me. Lincoln was a lot of fun today, although it was a lot of walking around looking for poo poo I could do. Eventually found one solid boulder that had a lot of fun problems. Absolutely gorgeous weather.
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Nov 26, 2019 22:00
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logis posted:Headed to Vegas after Christmas. I havent climbed outside the gym before, but I have been considering doing some bouldering at Red Rock while in town. Suggestions? Just do some V0-V3 while at Kraft? Where/how do I rent a pad? Climbing buddies / popular times to go? Thanks. Not sure about Vegas, but most cities have climbing Fb groups which are active. The only other suggestion I can make about Kraft (and any place w/sandstone) is to not climb if it's recently rained/snowed, as the moisture inundates the structure of the rock and can cause it to break if climbed on when wet (it usually takes 24-48 hrs for the rock to dry).
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Nov 26, 2019 22:22
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Brad Gobright rapped off the end of his ropes and died in El Potrero Chico today. Knots at the end of your ropes, please.
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Nov 28, 2019 06:42
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drat. Not nearly as bad, but Emily Harrington had a hell of a close call on El Cap. She fell far above gear while she and Honnold were simul-climbing. https://www.outsideonline.com/2406158/emily-harrington-fall-el-capitan-yosemite
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Nov 28, 2019 06:47
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I'm starting to get wrist pain when extending my wrists AND when putting weight on my hands. It's both on my right and left, and it's more or less dead centre of my wrist right at the joint between my wrist and forearm. I regularly stretch my wrists in both flexion and extension. I also regularly train wrist flexion and extension. The other thing I'm noticing is that my fingers are more flexed than they used to be when in a resting position and it's a little bit more difficult to extend my fingers than it used to be, so I'm doing weird things like when I'm pushing off with my palm, I'm flexing my fingers rather than splaying them out. Any ideas?
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Nov 28, 2019 08:37
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Kasumeat posted:I'm starting to get wrist pain when extending my wrists AND when putting weight on my hands. It's both on my right and left, and it's more or less dead centre of my wrist right at the joint between my wrist and forearm. I regularly stretch my wrists in both flexion and extension. I also regularly train wrist flexion and extension. The other thing I'm noticing is that my fingers are more flexed than they used to be when in a resting position and it's a little bit more difficult to extend my fingers than it used to be, so I'm doing weird things like when I'm pushing off with my palm, I'm flexing my fingers rather than splaying them out. Any ideas? Probably want to see a hand specialist but this happened to me and the reason was not doing any antagonist training.
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Nov 28, 2019 15:02
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gohuskies posted:Brad Gobright rapped off the end of his ropes and died in El Potrero Chico today. Knots at the end of your ropes, please. Not that the advice about knots changes but latest news is that he was simul rapping and the partner rapped off the end of his side which then caused them both to fall. Article with some details. Sounds like the partner got quite lucky and landed on a ledge.
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Nov 28, 2019 16:22
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gohuskies posted:Brad Gobright rapped off the end of his ropes and died in El Potrero Chico today. Knots at the end of your ropes, please. Turns out his partner did, not Gobright. Still a huge and easily avoidable loss.
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Nov 28, 2019 17:37
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On Terra Firma posted:Probably want to see a hand specialist but this happened to me and the reason was not doing any antagonist training. Did you get a diagnosis of something? I've trained antagonists regularly for over a decade (before I started climbing), with the exception of finger extensors. I'll add some rubber-band training to the mix.
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Nov 28, 2019 18:21
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Kasumeat posted:Did you get a diagnosis of something? I've trained antagonists regularly for over a decade (before I started climbing), with the exception of finger extensors. I'll add some rubber-band training to the mix. I didn't and it actually came about from playing piano (Bach fugues specifically which can be real knuckle busters) and the bands actually helped a lot with that.
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Nov 28, 2019 21:56
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Kasumeat posted:I'm starting to get wrist pain when extending my wrists AND when putting weight on my hands. It's both on my right and left, and it's more or less dead centre of my wrist right at the joint between my wrist and forearm. I regularly stretch my wrists in both flexion and extension. I also regularly train wrist flexion and extension. The other thing I'm noticing is that my fingers are more flexed than they used to be when in a resting position and it's a little bit more difficult to extend my fingers than it used to be, so I'm doing weird things like when I'm pushing off with my palm, I'm flexing my fingers rather than splaying them out. Any ideas? Does it hurt when you are in say the push up position? Congrats you probably have dorsal wrist impingement. Go to a hand specialist and get a steroid shot to fix it in the near term but for the long term you’re going to have to adapt a more neutral wrist position or get surgery. https://www.schreibermd.com/dorsal-wrist-impingement I had this a few months ago and it sucks. Even with the steroid shot I can’t be in a flexed position for long.
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Nov 29, 2019 00:01
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George H.W. oval office posted:Does it hurt when you are in say the push up position? Congrats you probably have dorsal wrist impingement. Go to a hand specialist and get a steroid shot to fix it in the near term but for the long term you’re going to have to adapt a more neutral wrist position or get surgery. That's definitely it, I really appreciate the info.
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Nov 29, 2019 05:39
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Is there a reason to get anything besides wiregate quickdraws these days? From what I can tell/have read the wiregates are usually the same price, less prone to opening when struck/jostled, are stronger and can be easier to clip? What am I missing about solid gate 'biner quickdraws?
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Nov 30, 2019 06:25
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The weight difference is negligible in some models - BD hotwires are only 2g less than hotforges, for example. I haven't noticed a trend of wiregates being stronger, the few models I just looked at had equal strength to the similiar solid gate models. Mostly I imagine it comes down to preference. I find solid gate easier to clip, but that's probably just due to familiarity. A hookless or keylock design is nice, and the only wiregate models I've handled that had that design were expensive (ange) or had an awkward, fat nose (hoodwire, oz).
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Nov 30, 2019 06:50
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TheDon01 posted:Is there a reason to get anything besides wiregate quickdraws these days? Wiregatess almost all have notches except the livewire, which I haven't tried, but I hate notches. Petzl spirits are lighter and I'm not sure where the strength difference in carabiners is ever relevant, but the spirits are also stronger if the gate is open/cross loaded. The spirits are also much lighter, I think the real question is why use a wirgate if they're going to be heavier and have a notch? I do kind of want to try the livewires, but I'm so used to spirits at this point I'm not sure it's worth it. Has anyone been to Mount Lemmon? I have the guidebook on the way, but is it going to be possible to climb at the fortress/summit crags in early January or will that be covered in snow? Am I going to die as a flatlander trying to climb at 8k feet? I'm pretty much exclusively a sport climber nowadays, is it worth trying the sport multi-pitch or will I need to reacquire a bunch of trad-ish bullshit like a bunch of webbing and cordelette to build anchors, it's kind of hard to tell from mountain project if I can just bring a bunch of draws and a PAS. I desperately want to watch my 5.13 climbing friend try to get up a 5.10 finger crack while I heckle from below, thanks.
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Nov 30, 2019 13:34
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M. Night Skymall posted:Has anyone been to Mount Lemmon? I have the guidebook on the way, but is it going to be possible to climb at the fortress/summit crags in early January or will that be covered in snow? Am I going to die as a flatlander trying to climb at 8k feet? I'm pretty much exclusively a sport climber nowadays, is it worth trying the sport multi-pitch or will I need to reacquire a bunch of trad-ish bullshit like a bunch of webbing and cordelette to build anchors, it's kind of hard to tell from mountain project if I can just bring a bunch of draws and a PAS. I desperately want to watch my 5.13 climbing friend try to get up a 5.10 finger crack while I heckle from below, thanks. Not sure how the summit will be in Jan., (there is a ski resort there, after all) but people flock to the Orifice around this time of year. The nice thing about the Lemmon is if it’s too cold, you move down. If it’s too hot, you move up. I went two years ago and was shocked that no one else was climbing in the area we were in (Lost Hawk). Turned out the temperatures there are so dialed the locals can be very picky about climbing where the sending weather is.
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Nov 30, 2019 14:17
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TheDon01 posted:Is there a reason to get anything besides wiregate quickdraws these days? Solid gate clips tend to be sold at redpointing sport climbers. You aren't placing them mid-attempt so the weight penalty doesn't apply, but you are taking lots of falls on them so eliminating an improbable but nasty rope-across-the-gate failure is more meaningful. They have a reassuring feel of durability too, which is probably a bigger factor.
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Nov 30, 2019 17:47
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M. Night Skymall posted:Wiregatess almost all have notches except the livewire, which I haven't tried, but I hate notches. Petzl spirits are lighter and I'm not sure where the strength difference in carabiners is ever relevant, but the spirits are also stronger if the gate is open/cross loaded. The spirits are also much lighter, I think the real question is why use a wirgate if they're going to be heavier and have a notch? I do kind of want to try the livewires, but I'm so used to spirits at this point I'm not sure it's worth it. Summit crags will probably be fairly snowy at that point. Road closures are also frequent during late December and after. There are a bunch of good crags below that as someone else said, depending on your temperature preferences there is guaranteed to be stuff to get at. I don't believe most of Lemmon needs a lot of gear, but I don't trad so unfortunately I can't help there.
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Nov 30, 2019 18:23
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TheDon01 posted:Is there a reason to get anything besides wiregate quickdraws these days? When clipping into a bolt, there's potential for the notched nose or a recess near the nose to get caught on the bolt and when loaded in that position the carabiner is considerably weaker, as can be seen in this DMM video. Catching the notched nose is entirely avoidable, if you're paying attention, but catching a recess is not and is something I'd reccomending looking out for in all carabiners or draws that are intended for use with bolts. Both are these problems aren't neccessarily unique to wiregates and various manufactures like Wild Country have products that have neither issue like the Heliums, but theytend to show up in lower priced versions. On the other side, wiregates do flutter less than solid gates so that's a minor plus.
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Dec 1, 2019 02:43
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Ubiquitus posted:Summit crags will probably be fairly snowy at that point. Road closures are also frequent during late December and after. There are a bunch of good crags below that as someone else said, depending on your temperature preferences there is guaranteed to be stuff to get at. I'm not looking to do actual trad, stuff like Steel Crazy, or maybe some of the 2 pitch stuff lower down if that's going to be covered in snow.
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Dec 1, 2019 15:23
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