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Rolo posted:-I used to build PC’s but it’s been almost 20 years. For reference, my last one was a bleeding edge Athlon XP with a Radeon 9800. Has much changed with respect to assembly? PC assembly has changed very little in the last 20 years, mainly fewer sharp edges and modular PSU cables. The mechanics of doing it haven't changed, but the products are more polished and the quality of life is higher.
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Dec 1, 2019 20:28
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taqueso posted:Really almost nothing. The low end cases don't have razor blade edges anymore. There are basically no parts you can hook up backwards, everything is keyed, though 1999 might have been to that point too. * modular power supplies * cable management integration with cases * simplified setups for water-cooling * M.2 form factors for storage You can maybe add SLI/dual GPU setups in that as well, I guess. And RGB LED lightshow stuff. Aside from the connectors changing, it's all the same hoopla of Mobo, CPU, cooler, GPU, drives, Wifi. Sound cards are mostly not needed anymore.
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Dec 1, 2019 20:29
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Rashaverak posted:I definitely plan on purchasing one in the next few days as I hadn't been extremely impressed with anything yet this year - I favor larger monitors, and a 27 inch would likely be too small for me. I'll head over to the appropriate thread and read up on the new offerings to see if there's something nice in the 34-38" range. Overclocking potential is going to be more or less the same and the 9900k doesn't have a ton of headroom anyway, but better VRM means more peace of mind for running an overclock over several years. Gigabyte's boards are great and Asus' are just marginal. You won't really be going wrong, per se, but you'll run a higher risk of reducing the board's lifespan. Rashaverak posted:Very good point about the storage - if the performance, reliability, and lifespan are the same between two equivalent devices I see no reason not to drop the Samsungs in favor of an equivalent. I simply chose them as I remember Samsung as having made rather decent quality SSDs at slightly higher than normal prices. I was thinking that the H115i was 360mm when I mentioned it, so it was more for equivalent aesthetics than cooling. For a gpu there's not going to be a significant difference in cooling and noise between a 360 aio or a 280/240 (and even a 120 is sufficient for a 2080 ti!) If your just looking for a performance gain, though, I wouldn't bother with the aio at all - it's not going to be significant. Same goes for cpu, honestly - a D15s or Scythe Mugen 5 is extremely close to the a good 240/280 aio in cooling and noise. If you decide to go with a compatible cooler, you should be able to swap out the fans for Corsairs, just make sure you get the right size (120 or 140). Rashaverak posted:Also, I'm looking to be able to run virtually anything I want in VR on maximum settings and highest refresh rate on the Index. I know my previous GTX 1080 wasn't cutting it for me, so I want to make sure my VR experience is flawless from now on and that's a large reason why I went all out on this rig (within limits, no $5k GPUs etc) This should be about as good as it can get right now! We don't know what gaming requirements will look like after the next console launch, but top-end Intel cpus and motherboards tend to retain a good portion of their value in resale so if you need to swap out for new processor at some point the marginal cost should be relatively low.
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Dec 1, 2019 20:34
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tehinternet posted:I have literally this build. Upgrade your video card and you’ll crush anything at 1080p. I’m using the 4670k now with a 1080 Ti (I know, bottleneck) at 1440 Ultrawide and usually getting 60+ frames. I remember how excited I got as a kid upgrading PC parts so hopefully he does too. This was exactly the advice I was hoping for. Going to go with a higher end card which I can then move to a new build 1 or 2 years down the road when I get a new cpu/board. Thanks for the help!
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Dec 1, 2019 20:34
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Rolo posted:I really like my PSVR but the limitations are noticeable and I’m thinking about building a box for an Oculus S. Here’s some idiot questions because man am I out of the loop: Honestly, the biggest change in PC gaming over the past 10 years is the availability of quality high-refresh and higher-resolution monitors in the <$400 price range, along with adaptive sync technologies. Along with that, most components have gotten cheaper (and you can now swap out hdds for ssds entirely), but if you're targeting 1440p/144+ or higher your gpu will be 40-60% of the total build budget. Picking a monitor resolution/refresh rate is where you want to start a build these days, and if you've never experienced good high-refresh monitors you should check some out at your local Best Buy. Even if you end up sticking with your TV, it's worth a look. E: Although, if we're talking 20 years ago, you missed most of the rough early "gaming on lcd" years. Rolo posted:-I don’t want to find room for a desk and monitor. I’d be using this 90% for VR and like 10% traditional gaming with a controller so I’d like to just use my TV as a monitor. What are the considerations with doing this? Can I just run an HDMI and call it good? Will I need a separate cable for sound or can I run both through one HDMI like with a game console? My last PC had a dedicated sound card so it was a simpler question then. What's the resolution of your TV? If it's 4k you might want a more power gpu, though you'll still probably want to upscale from 1440p or 1800p to keep frame rates stable. HDMi carries digital audio, so no need for a separate cable. In fact, a sound card wouldn't add anything to this setup because it would still be the gpu that sends digital audio to the TV! Stickman fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Dec 1, 2019 |
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Dec 1, 2019 20:38
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Hace posted:I genuinely can't think of a good reason to get the 2700X over the 3600, unless there's something extremly specific you need those extra threads for. And even then i dunno what you really get. Cyrano4747 posted:Mostly because there's a sale on them at the Microcenter near me and I can get one for $160. - https://www.newegg.com/amd-ryzen-7-2700/p/N82E16819113498?Item=N82E16819113498 Microcenter actually has the 2700X for $130 right now, that's cheap enough to where I can see getting it over the 3600. At that price ($100 with combo deal) I would say go for it. https://www.microcenter.com/product/505632/amd-ryzen-7-2700x-37ghz-8-core-am4-boxed-processor-with-wraith-prism-cooler
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Dec 1, 2019 20:52
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Stickman posted:In fact, a sound card wouldn't add anything to this setup because it would still be the gpu that sends digital audio to the TV! That’s neat and exactly what I was hoping to hear. Lots of good stuff so far, thank you for the info, everyone. If I’m going for decent VR would I be fine sticking with a micro ATX setup or would it melt through my floor? I ask because I crammed my 9800 in a smaller case back in the day and it was basically a glowing radioactive mess once I loaded Half Life 2 
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Dec 1, 2019 21:06
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Torn between these 2 boards for overclocking my new i7-8700k: GIGABYTE Z390 AORUS ULTRA ASUS Prime Z390-A I like the WiFi and VRM dependability of the Gigabyte, but the audio codec and BIOS UI seem to be better on the ASUS. Any idea which I should choose, or a different one to throw in the ring?
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Dec 1, 2019 21:14
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MaxxBot posted:Microcenter actually has the 2700X for $130 right now, that's cheap enough to where I can see getting it over the 3600. At that price ($100 with combo deal) I would say go for it. Doh. Yeah that’s the deal I meant to link.
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Dec 1, 2019 21:16
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1. What's a good reliable 4tb+ HDD? Doesn't have to be super quick, won't be running games or apps from it, just for storage. And if I can sneak in a related question: How do you check a HDD's health/remaining lifetime? And what the heck is SAS? Last time I bought a HDD it was all SATA. PirateBob fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Dec 1, 2019 |
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Dec 1, 2019 21:30
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If any of you guys build a PC and need to activate Windows, could you PM me? I'm not gonna sell you a single drat thing, nor will I mention selling any drat thing, but I need to test something and I don't necessarily wanna install Windows just to check it out.
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Dec 1, 2019 21:39
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Ok, is there anything horribly wrong with this motherboard - https://www.microcenter.com/product/509732/asrock-b450m-pro4-am4-matx-amd-motherboard - and a 2700x? edit: or a 3600 for that matter, I'm still debating that but I'm diving down the mobo rabbit hole and frankly I don't know enough to tell the different similar boards apart. Only restriction is that I'd prefer a mATX for space reasons. Cyrano4747 fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Dec 1, 2019 |
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Dec 1, 2019 21:40
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PirateBob posted:1. What's a good reliable 4tb+ HDD? Doesn't have to be super quick, won't be running games or apps from it, just for storage. NAS drives like WD Red and Seagate Ironwolf are what you want. You can use a program like crystal disk info to check a drive's SMART info. Don't worry about SAS, it's mostly used by enterprise servers, consumer motherboards don't even have SAS controllers.
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Dec 1, 2019 21:51
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Bryter posted:NAS drives like WD Red and Seagate Ironwolf are what you want. You can use a program like crystal disk info to check a drive's SMART info. Don't worry about SAS, it's mostly used by enterprise servers, consumer motherboards don't even have SAS controllers. Thanks. I might go for an IronWolf. How do you interpret the info from CrystalDiskInfo? It says "reallocated sector count: Current 100, Worst 100, Raw data 0000000000"
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Dec 1, 2019 21:56
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MaxxBot posted:Microcenter actually has the 2700X for $130 right now, that's cheap enough to where I can see getting it over the 3600. At that price ($100 with combo deal) I would say go for it. That seems like a good deal. For the thread: Can I get some opinions on the 2700 vs the 3600? I’d like a computer that’s good for development type work and is somewhere around $6-800 (minus monitor). I do occasionally play games but I don’t mind playing at lower resolutions or limiting myself to older stuff anyway. I’m not planning on spending more than $200 each for a monitor or gpu if I can help it. I’m tempted to go for the 2700 because the extra threads would be great when I’m running Docker containers and whatnot is there anything I would be missing out on by opting for the 2700 instead of the newer 3600?
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Dec 1, 2019 21:58
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Will my Ryzen come with thermal paste or should I just throw a tube of the stuff on top of the pile? It’s like 5 bucks. And what Windows do I buy? What the heck does OEM mean in regards to an OS? Can I boot install from a usb?
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Dec 1, 2019 22:05
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Cyrano4747 posted:Ok, is there anything horribly wrong with this motherboard - https://www.microcenter.com/product/509732/asrock-b450m-pro4-am4-matx-amd-motherboard - and a 2700x? I think you need a lot more RGBs 
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Dec 1, 2019 22:05
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Cyrano4747 posted:Ok, is there anything horribly wrong with this motherboard - https://www.microcenter.com/product/509732/asrock-b450m-pro4-am4-matx-amd-motherboard - and a 2700x? aaaand this ram: https://www.microcenter.com/product...-16gvkb---black Not seeing any problems via PC parts picker etc but I'm an idiot.
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Dec 1, 2019 22:14
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PirateBob posted:Thanks. I might go for an IronWolf. If it shows "Good" then the drive's built in SMART monitor has not detected any anomalies, but if it says caution or warning you should immediately back up your data and replace the disk. If you mouse hover over a caution or warning indicator it will tell you what parameters are out of the threshold and show their values. To really get full usefulness out of it though, make it auto start with windows, set it to auto-refresh all drives every 1440 minutes (once a day) and leave it running in the background permanently. It will provide early warning via a sound and notification on most impending mechanical drive failures and 90% of the time will allow you to back up all the data then replace the drive yourself if you act quickly. It also tracks all the drive parameters over time and can graph changes, although there will always be cases where a drive just fails abruptly without warning and crystal disk info can't help there. SAS is for Serial Attached SCSI, this is exclusively an enterprise class feature and does not work on consumer motherboards/controllers.
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Dec 1, 2019 22:16
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PirateBob posted:Thanks. I might go for an IronWolf. Means you have no reallocated sectors, which is good. If you have anything to worry about there will be a warning.
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Dec 1, 2019 22:18
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dads friend steve posted:That seems like a good deal. You'll be fine with the 2700x. While the 3000 series are faster it's not like you'll be able to tell in FPS difference with your eyes. For $130 it's an amazing deal. I'd pick it over the 3600 any day for that price. The main bottleneck in gaming is the video card anyway. When the 2700x was launched a year ago it was selling for $330. It's still a premium processor today. Mu Zeta fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Dec 1, 2019 |
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Dec 1, 2019 22:24
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Stickman posted:I was thinking that the H115i was 360mm when I mentioned it, so it was more for equivalent aesthetics than cooling. For a gpu there's not going to be a significant difference in cooling and noise between a 360 aio or a 280/240 (and even a 120 is sufficient for a 2080 ti!) My primary reasons for going with the AIO for the GPU are lower temperatures ~ longer lifespan, less noise, improved ability to overclock, and I simply like the look (in all Corsair RGB) and idea of having dual 280mm AIOs, one on top for the CPU and one on bottom for the GPU, with three LL120's on intake in the front with a LL140 in the rear. I decided to stick with the Corsair Crystal 680x as I simply enjoy the aesthetics of that case kitted out in synchronized RGB, and I'd accept the weaknesses this case has over the Lian Li since I have to stare at it for the next 5 years. I did however change my storage and power supply to your recommendations as I saw no reason to go to 850W, and the storage changes made good sense. I kept my processor with the 9900KF, primarily because I've always wanted a super nice Intel processor without going to the $1k+ level, and there's multiple reports of these chips being more stable at 5.0GHz on all 8 cores due to whatever Intel is doing in its binning process to eliminate the supply problem for these chips by using chips with bad integrated graphics or whatever the real situation is. I've seen some different takes on using the Kraken G12 to watercool the GPUs - some people say they need heatsinks on VRAM and VRMs in the 2080 TI, others say they're working just fine albeit at slightly higher than normal temps but well within tolerances. I don't know if adding heatsinks with thermal double sided tape would still fit within the G12 bracket, or how the VRMs on the opposite side of the die would get cooled (so I would definitely put a heatsink on those if it fits, but it would be 6 VRMs with heatsinks without a fan). I'm guessing I'm also going to have no choice but to go with the NZXT X62 AIO, as I can't find a compatible Corsair 280mm AIO that isn't $750 as I'm guessing they're older and mostly out of stock, and a 240mm AIO just has the wrong aesthetics when the slot fits a 280mm and the other AIO is a 280mm. If anyone knows of a compatible 280mm Corsair, please do let me know, or if there's another 280mm solution besides the X62 I should consider. Stickman posted:This should be about as good as it can get right now! We don't know what gaming requirements will look like after the next console launch, but top-end Intel cpus and motherboards tend to retain a good portion of their value in resale so if you need to swap out for new processor at some point the marginal cost should be relatively low. Thanks for the advice, again! I haven't totally followed all of the recommendations I've received from this thread, mainly for "I've always wanted one" reasons on the CPU, but this thread has helped me make less bad choices. I still need to find a monitor, but I'm torn between a 4k 120Hz or a 1440p 120hz. I know most games won't be able to run 4k at 120 FPS even with this setup, so I'm hesitant to pull the trigger on some of the $699 27 inch 4K 120Hz monitors I've seen so far. Any recommendations (let's say $800ish budget but by no means do I feel I need to use that all, and could be convinced to go $1k if it was worth it).
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Dec 1, 2019 22:25
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Mu Zeta posted:You'll be fine with the 2700x. While the 3000 series are faster it's not like you'll be able to tell in FPS difference with your eyes. For $130 it's an amazing deal. I'd pick it over the 3600 any day for that price. The main bottleneck in gaming is the video card anyway. When the 2700x was launched a year ago it was selling for $330. It's still a premium processor today. Thank you! I’ve never built a pc before so it’s all a bit overwhelming.
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Dec 1, 2019 22:31
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Cyrano4747 posted:aaaand this ram: https://www.microcenter.com/product...-16gvkb---black It seems ok to me, but I'm not quite as informed as some people in here.
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Dec 1, 2019 22:36
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Cyrano4747 posted:Ok, is there anything horribly wrong with this motherboard - https://www.microcenter.com/product/509732/asrock-b450m-pro4-am4-matx-amd-motherboard - and a 2700x? That board is one of the better mATX choices and would be totally fine for a stock 2700x or 3600, but it's pretty marginal for overclocking a 2700x. Unfortunately there really isn't much better in mATX until except for the $185 X570 (except for Europe, which has the MSi Mortar). It should be fine, but if you're playing on a high refresh monitor I'd consider spending a bit extra for the 3600. Overclocked power consumption is the one big disadvantage of the 2700x over the 3600. Overclocking will close some of the single-core performance, but you'd really want at least a B450 Tomahawk or X470 do get a decent boost. Targeting 60fps it doesn't really matter, though, a stock 2600/2700 will be just fine for everything currently released! The B450m Pro4 is on the compatibility list for ram you selected, so it should be fine! Stickman fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Dec 1, 2019 |
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Dec 1, 2019 22:43
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TenaciousTomato posted:Torn between these 2 boards for overclocking my new i7-8700k: I've no idea where the Asus stands (probably high) but I have heard that the Aorus Master has better VRM's than the Ultra. [edit] no idea if it's true Ak Gara fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Dec 1, 2019 |
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Dec 1, 2019 22:57
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Ugh are there any alternatives to the Tomahawk max right now? I don't mind spending 50-100 more. It's for a 3600X.. I ask because the Tomahawk seems to be sold out at the usual spots.
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Dec 1, 2019 23:08
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Are you ok with spending $200 on an X570 board?
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Dec 1, 2019 23:12
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I see an X570 Aorus board for 150ish which doesn't seem too crazy?
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Dec 1, 2019 23:30
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Yeah looks like either of these are solid and can handle the 3950x if you're inclined https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Prime-X...ttpwwwtechsp-20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SXF8GY3/?tag=httpwwwtechsp-20
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Dec 1, 2019 23:41
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The TUF is the better choice if you want a usb-c port. E: The Aorus Elite is fine, too, and that's a good price. It doesn't have any external USB-c ports, but you can use a bracket to access the internal type-c port if you don't have type-c port on your case's front panel. Stickman fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Dec 1, 2019 |
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Dec 1, 2019 23:55
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Last built a PC in 2010, looking to get something newer in a smaller box. (Ideally under 12"x10"x10" WxDxH but I have a few inches to spare if that's unreasonable). Black Friday deals are prompting me get on this. I'm in Canada I'd like to do some modern-ish gaming, a couple of friends are inviting me to play divinity original sin 2 and borderlands 2 and I can't run them yet. Aside from gaming I'd like to make some games in unity. I'm running a 1080p, 60fps monitor and I doubt I'll go fancier. I don't need max settings, if I can get games looking as good as Deus Ex: Human Revolution then I'll be happy. (I don't know what minimum graphics looks like these days but I'm not looking for a high bar) Friend is offering to give me a GTX 1060 to get my system started. Don't know if that's good or bad. I'll take any advice I can get.
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Dec 2, 2019 00:17
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The 1060 can handle Divinity Original Sin 2 and Borderlands 2 at 1080p so that's a nice offer from your friend. This ITX case is basically the exact dimensions you're looking for and it's pretty cheap. https://www.thermaltakeusa.com/core-v1.html
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Dec 2, 2019 00:31
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Nessman posted:Last built a PC in 2010, looking to get something newer in a smaller box. (Ideally under 12"x10"x10" WxDxH but I have a few inches to spare if that's unreasonable). What sort of budget are you looking at? And do you mean Borderlands 2 or Borderlands 3? The Thermaltake Core V1 is a nice budget ITX case that's just a bit over your dimensions: 10.2"x12.4"x10.9" (WDH). This should be a good budget base without cutting corners: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($159.99 @ Amazon Canada) Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($137.48 @ Vuugo) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($78.99 @ Newegg Canada) Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU800 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Canada Computers) Case: Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($79.98 @ Amazon Canada) Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($102.50 @ Vuugo) Total: $668.93 There's room to drop that down little bit, but mostly with a smaller ssd or cheaper power supply, which I wouldn't recommend. A 1060 (especially the 6GB version) is a good 1080p/60Hz card, especially if you're playing games like OS2 and Borderlands 2. A 1660 Super would be a ~25% performance boost, but they start at $320 for good models. E: You'd need to double-check that the 1060 will fit in the Core V1, though. Length is usually fine, but it won't fit cards that are much wider than two slots or much taller than the bracket. Most 1060s will fit, but MSI's "Gaming X" cards are too tall and Gigabyte's "Aorus Extreme" cards are too tall and too fat. Stickman fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Dec 2, 2019 |
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Dec 2, 2019 00:32
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Stickman posted:The TUF is the better choice if you want a usb-c port. Thanks! My case has an external C port so I think I'm good there. I'm still confused why these cases put C ports instead of A (granted I have a bunch of C to C cables but suspect most people aren't like me and have A to C instead..).
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Dec 2, 2019 01:35
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I have a little media player PC with a Pentium G4400 in it, using onboard video. I've found that it struggles with 1080p HEVC files, particularly there is anything else running on it at all, with the processor maxing out. My question is what would give me a greater bang for my buck, putting a fanless/very quiet video card in it, or replacing the processor with an i5/i7. It'd have to be an older 6th or 7th generation processor because of Intel's chipset nonsense. It's running Linux Mint if that matters.
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Dec 2, 2019 02:23
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All my stuff arrived and my new computer is working. Word of warning for anyone else. Sometimes the Tomahawk Max B450 won't see your GPU. It happened to me after trying to update the bios via MSI's Live Update 6. Not gonna try that again. Gonna be a pain if doing the bios update from the bios (M-Flash forces you to restart the computer) makes the motherboard unable to see my GPU again. Slightly wishing I spent the extra $30-$40 on a X570 board but oh well. GPU is an EVGA GTX 1080ti SC Black Edition. Bios was giving the Post and VGA error lights while the problem was happening. I eventually got things working again by resetting the CMOS but god that was not fun to run into after spending like 5 hours building the thing, 10 minutes installing windows...and then 30-45 minutes going "oh nooo I bricked the motherboard" while trying to troubleshoot it. Edit: also the Meshify C expects you to route cables in this one spot with velcro spots already there but then the velcro they already have their is a pain to loosen to fit anything into. I also am probably not great at routing cables and had problems getting the PSU to stay in it's slot. Due to the HDD brackets I had to let the PSU hang out the back some to hook all the modular cables up. MagusDraco fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Dec 2, 2019 |
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Dec 2, 2019 02:25
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You shouldn't really need to update the bioses on Max boards.
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Dec 2, 2019 02:29
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ItBreathes posted:You shouldn't really need to update the bioses on Max boards. It's a couple versions behind and doesn't have agesa 1.0.0.4 patch B.
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Dec 2, 2019 02:33
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Does Antec still make pretty good cases? I'm looking for an inexpensive ATX ~midtower case with good airflow, at least one unobstructed 5.25" bay and no plugs, fan holes or mesh on the top, and all I can find that fits the bill this Antec P7 Silent. Antec used to be highly regarded 10+ years ago but this is priced pretty low and only for sale from third party sellers on Newegg or Amazon which is usually a red flag. What's the deal? Any suggestions?
poverty goat fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Dec 2, 2019 |
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Dec 2, 2019 04:10
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