|
Colostomy Bag posted:Used the screwdriver method once. Worked, but if it goes bad egads (meaning tearing it apart). The trick is to make sure you pierce the core. Did that a lot as a lube monkey, never shredded one.
|
# ? Dec 2, 2019 20:41 |
|
|
# ? Apr 28, 2024 22:52 |
|
glyph posted:Ha! Same. I justified the expense of my comically large channel locks when the screwdriver method went south and then I suddenly couldn’t drive my car to the stores and had to borrow a car to get it done. Yeah, they are great. Maybe I'm doing something wrong with my oil changes. Whenever I get a "new to me car" it requires all the above to loosen the oil filter. But after the first oil change the drat thing comes loose with only a hand or two on the next one.
|
# ? Dec 2, 2019 21:11 |
|
Today's project, replaced the batteries in my keyfob. Done it once, now twice. Harder than it looks.
|
# ? Dec 2, 2019 21:16 |
|
K&N Performance Series filters are all I use. The 1" hex on the end are a must, plus they're one of the best filters out there.
|
# ? Dec 2, 2019 21:25 |
|
Changed the external transmission filter (because Subaru). Turns out it wasn't the original one; in fact it had the exact same Carquest/Advance Auto filter I was putting on. No telling how old it was, it had a thick layer of grime covering it (enough that I used half a can of brake cleaner to hose it down before I could get a strap wrench to grab it). Drove it a bit with a new filter... No more delayed engagement going into drive (it would "engage" and crawl forward at a speed like it was in 2nd gear, then slam into gear when you hit the gas, so I assume it was slipping). 1st to 2nd shift is much firmer, 2nd to 3rd is a little firmer (not fantastic, but definitely better), 3rd to 4th is about the same as before. Downshifts seem to be much better when I stomp it (definitely more pronounced, possibly quicker, though the latter could be placebo). Fluid looked pretty decent - no burnt smell, a little darker than I'd like (red instead of pink). There's half a tube of RTV between the pan and transmission instead of a proper gasket, I'm gonna drop the pan soon. Hopefully I'll find some RTV clogging the screen. If it's not clogged up, I'll change it anyway, and just hope it lasts awhile (maybe throw a cheap shift kit at it to increase line pressure? there's a company that makes a "HD" shift kit for the 4EAT, and it's cheap - looks easy enough to install that I may as well try it to see if I can get a bit more life out of it with higher line pressure/firmer shifts). I've had it flare decently a few times on the 2 to 3 upshift, usually it would just take awhile on the shift with the RPMs hanging. It seems to shift considerably quicker into 3rd now, but still kinda sloppy. I haven't owned an automatic since 2005, and the last time I had an abused automatic was around the turn of the century - so a lot of red flags didn't seem obvious to me before buying this car. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Dec 2, 2019 |
# ? Dec 2, 2019 21:25 |
|
The last auto I owned was a three speed in a second gen J-body with a torque converter that didn't like to unlock. Probably explains my strong preference for manual
|
# ? Dec 2, 2019 21:47 |
|
STR posted:Changed the external transmission filter (because Subaru). Turns out it wasn't the original one; in fact it had the exact same Carquest/Advance Auto filter I was putting on. No telling how old it was, it had a thick layer of grime covering it (enough that I used half a can of brake cleaner to hose it down before I could get a strap wrench to grab it). Drove it a bit with a new filter... Talking out of my rear end like I always do, solenoid pack on Subarus?
|
# ? Dec 2, 2019 21:57 |
|
Haven't looked at them TBH. It's not throwing any codes at all (transmission or engine), so I was chalking it up to a worn out transmission. I could ohm them out and see what it takes to cause them to finally engage, but that requires that I don't really want to put into a beater. And if I'm replacing solenoids, I'm already dropping the valve body anyway...
|
# ? Dec 2, 2019 22:13 |
|
I finally figured out the rattle on the passenger side in my almera n16 that was driving me insane. It turns out Nissan left a few unused sheet metal nuts below the glove box to hold the blower regulator on other trim models and one of these nuts would rattle at exactly 1500 RPM. Also silenced the front doors, cleaned the seat belt rollers and seat rails and all the other poo poo you can do with the interior half removed. Feels 10 years younger now.
|
# ? Dec 2, 2019 22:22 |
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:We put a JDM EJ203 into my '05 Saab 9-2X to replace the rod-knockin' EJ253 in it. Most money I've ever spent to lose 20 horsepower. Same ECU, just with the 253 intake manifold riding atop the 203 block. Yeah that was a fun one. You going to post any pictures?
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 01:23 |
|
EvilBeard posted:K&N Performance Series filters are all I use. The 1" hex on the end are a must, plus they're one of the best filters out there. Same, but as we've seen, I have a tendency to over-torque my filters. I did just a few turns of the ratchet this time putting the new filter on--I was raised to wrench my filters tight, fwiw. Did transfer case oil change today on my vehicle. Existing oil was original, but smelled nowhere near as awful as the rear diff oil that was changed recently.
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 02:31 |
|
I never torque my filters. It's hand tight, then once around with a ratchet I'm gunshy from a PO who put on a filter with a rattlegun and no oil around the seal, never want to experience that again
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 03:09 |
|
Man I just use a fingertip of old oil to wet the rubber seal on the new filter, then just tighten it as hard as I can with my hands. This has worked for me for all sorts of cars from weirdo tiny sports cars to big diesels. No leaks and, the best part, they come of easy when they need to be changed. Today I changed the oil on the Rugger, and also went to change the fuel filter. The oil filter is easy, do what I did above, ez pz japanezy. The fuel filter though: Turns out that this Rugger is so early that Diahatsu must of changed the 'is there water in the fuel filter' sensor very early in production as I have this thing, where as what I need is this one: Which will fit into the new filter (on the left in the top most picture). It's cool though, $25 bucks later and I'm getting one shipped from Indonesia, land of Daihatsu worship. Won't be here for a while so I just put the old filter back on, was just changing it because I believe it might be original to the truck, which is an 84.
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 03:35 |
|
Even as tight as you can by hand is like 80% too tight imo. They take extremely little torque to seal. Usually it's something like 10ftlbs, or half to 3/4 of a turn after the seal touches.
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 04:04 |
|
Minto Took posted:I was raised to wrench my filters tight, fwiw. The Door Frame posted:I never torque my filters. It's hand tight The Door Frame posted:then once around with a ratchet I have a hard enough time removing my hand-tight filters, I don't know what motivates this kind of degeneracy
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 10:10 |
|
Why does common sense for threaded connections stop at oil filters? Check the torque spec and if it says something about single digit Newton meters, re evaluate your life choices if you took any kind of tool to it except for a 1/4' torque wrench.
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 12:30 |
|
Hypnolobster posted:Even as tight as you can by hand is like 80% too tight imo. They take extremely little torque to seal. Usually it's something like 10ftlbs, or half to 3/4 of a turn after the seal touches. This. Why is anybody using a ratchet?
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 12:59 |
|
I guess "finger tight then ratchet" would be more accurate, but yeah, if I can remove it by hand or very easily with a wrench a year later, I don't care what the torque spec is. As long as I'm not one of the degenerates who puts it on with a rattlegun
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 13:13 |
|
Why is this so complicated? 1) Pour as much new oil in the filter before you start the oil change so the filter has time to soak it up. Try to do it a second time between steps. 2) You will have now some oil over it because you misjudged. Use that to lube the the o-ring. 3) Collect 30 paper towels while finding beer. 4) When installing the oil filter, spin it on until it stops, then an extra I guess a 1/4 turn by hand. The big one is, when you owned a PO and doing the first oil change when yanking off the filter is to make sure the o-ring stays on the filter and not the 'block'. That creates quite the mess at startup.
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 13:18 |
|
OEM Subaru filters, at least, have instructions printed on them that are pretty explicit about "spin until gasket hits the block then an extra 3/4ths turn" or some poo poo.
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 16:12 |
|
When I did the first oil change on my EXP, the filter was on so fuckin tight that when I stabbed through with the screwdriver I just shredded the drat filter when I turned it. Had to crunch it up with but huge pliers to get that fucker to turn.
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 16:17 |
Rhyno posted:When I did the first oil change on my EXP, the filter was on so fuckin tight that when I stabbed through with the screwdriver I just shredded the drat filter when I turned it. Had to crunch it up with but huge pliers to get that fucker to turn. Jebus
|
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 16:39 |
I was eying the custom fit Weathertech floormats but the generic $30 ones at Costco made more sense. Put them in last night and the fit is excellent at least for the driver so I'm counting this as a win because nearly $200 on flootmats is a little wild. May still have to get the custom backseat mats because of kids. Replaced this little sidemarker brake thing that has been driving me mad. I know everyone wants $36 for it on ebay so I grabbed both sides at the junkyard. Also this HUD arrived in the mail and it works surprisingly well. I'll write a little more once I route the wire and mount it properly.
|
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 17:03 |
|
Rhyno posted:When I did the first oil change on my EXP, the filter was on so fuckin tight that when I stabbed through with the screwdriver I just shredded the drat filter when I turned it. Had to crunch it up with but huge pliers to get that fucker to turn. Yep, when the huge channeloks.jpeg were posted.
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 17:11 |
|
I had to crush it up with my only sort of large ones and twist it off with those.
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 17:20 |
|
I torque my S2000 oil filter and I safety wire it. They are known to come loose and are a little different than normal filters. I've personally seen the aftermath of the filter backing off on four of them, one caught on fire
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 18:15 |
|
BlackMK4 posted:I torque my S2000 oil filter and I safety wire it. They are known to come loose and are a little different than normal filters. I had to google how you do this since generally there's nothing to attach safety wire to on an oil filter.
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 18:43 |
|
Rhyno posted:When I did the first oil change on my EXP, the filter was on so fuckin tight that when I stabbed through with the screwdriver I just shredded the drat filter when I turned it. Had to crunch it up with but huge pliers to get that fucker to turn. Same thing with the missus' xA when I first got it. Took me almost an hour to change the oil
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 23:32 |
|
I don't think I've ever changed the oil for the first time on a used car and not had to resort to destructive measures to remove the filter.
|
# ? Dec 3, 2019 23:54 |
|
Replaced the fuel filter on my xc90 and found out it had been running on a smaller filter for 90s fords with rubber hoses added to make the clamp hold.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2019 00:35 |
|
I mangled up the filter that was on my Crown Vic when I got it. What made it infinitely worse was the complete lack of space around the sides of the filter on a P71 with the oil cooler lines. I immediately went out and got one of the end-cap style wrenches for future use, since there's plenty of room in that direction. Between that and installing the filter properly, I've not had an issue since.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2019 00:37 |
|
Darchangel posted:I mangled up the filter that was on my Crown Vic when I got it. What made it infinitely worse was the complete lack of space around the sides of the filter on a P71 with the oil cooler lines. I immediately went out and got one of the end-cap style wrenches for future use, since there's plenty of room in that direction. Between that and installing the filter properly, I've not had an issue since. I had to do this with our MZ20 Soarer with the 7M-GTE. If it weren't the turbo charged one I'd have a ton of space to get the filter off. Since it is turbo though, all that space is taken up with plumbing. The only actual way to get to it is with an end-cap filter wrench.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2019 00:54 |
|
Thanks for the input on removing and properly installing oil filters. I'll be the first to admit I'm an idiot since I've proven that to myself many times before.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2019 01:46 |
|
This has reminded me to tighten the gently caress out of the filters before I sell any car, gotta pass that experience on.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2019 04:51 |
|
Rhyno posted:This has reminded me to tighten the gently caress out of the filters before I sell any car, gotta pass that experience on. I just remembered I had my wife take her car in since my free time and the weather failed to cooperate. That's going to suck. It took all I had to break it loose when it was new-to-us.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2019 05:12 |
|
The oil filter on a mid 90s Corolla with the 4A-FE engine is a real pain in the dick. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPmIn1UuOCU In the video, guy has to smack the filter wrench in place because it won't fit between the filter and the exhaust. I changed the oil in my Grandma's 96 and I couldn't get my hands on the drat thing and it took me ages just because of that. There's not enough space to do poo poo.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2019 05:36 |
|
Mine is buried under a splash guard (with several holes in it, stock, to ensure maximum possible mess)... the drain plug is also covered by it. 3 guesses what went straight into the garbage when I changed the oil the first time (it doesn't act as an air dam on my car, and it was hanging down anyway). At least I don't have to deal with the ring of fire that a lot of newer Subarus have... randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Dec 4, 2019 |
# ? Dec 4, 2019 05:42 |
|
No matter what tools you've got on hand, it can always get worse... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZW8GUfETbSw
|
# ? Dec 4, 2019 07:01 |
|
I have to admit, I laughed when the grinder came out.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2019 16:41 |
|
|
# ? Apr 28, 2024 22:52 |
|
Imagine the filter being THAT EASY to access and still loving up taking it off.
|
# ? Dec 4, 2019 17:16 |