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Geoj posted:Straight pipe means it just has exhaust tubing without any mufflers. So if I'm selling a car where the muffler rotted off, I can say has a straight pipe?
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Dec 4, 2019 02:56
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zaepg posted:No, everything is removed. Second day and still not working. What am I looking for? It's a fuse box right? I posted a picture earlier of exactly the fuse you need to look at. It's labeled #17 in the box under the dash, middle of the bottom row. It controls the power plug and the radio.
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Dec 4, 2019 04:10
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And make sure to use the same rating fuse, don't ever upsize them unless you like fire. If it blows again, you need to track down whatever has a short. If the lighter socket sits at an angle, they're pretty good loose change catchers, which will cause a short.
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Dec 4, 2019 04:33
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taqueso posted:So if I'm selling a car where the muffler rotted off, I can say has a straight pipe? This is going to attract a certain type who will probably walk when they learn it doesn't actually have a straight pipe.
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Dec 4, 2019 04:47
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Bank posted:I'm really hoping the car just needs it's TB cleaned at this point. Maybe what's going on is the car drives fine once reset since it's using all the stock settings, but the TB is so dirty it's sending carbon flying all over the MAF sensor causing the car to recalibrate itself? I second cleaning the TB, I see from your previous vids it's 109k miles, so if it hasn't been done ever it'll definitely be dirty. Also if you didn't know this already it's the same drivetrain as a Mazda 3 so Google results for that will be mostly valid for looking up problems and stuff.
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Dec 4, 2019 05:10
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Hello all A friend of mine asked my opinion on a couple Nissan Xtrails with the 2.0tdi. I know little about them, has anyone driven one regularly, and beyond the normal td issues, is there anything in particular to be aware of? This is one he linked me https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=2355160797
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Dec 4, 2019 08:58
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Receently test drove one of a similar vintage in NZ, actually - petrol not diesel though, so I can't speak as to the engine Decided not to buy as it was rusty as gently caress on the underside and seemed to have been hit on the rear right judging from a brief inspection of the wheel wells Apologies if you've already considered any of this stuff, most of it's pretty obvious, I haven't bought many cars in my lifetime. Not sure what the local market's like in Auckland but that would have been a fairly pricey listing for a 2009 in Queenstown when I was looking Seeing as that has roof bars, it's probably seen its fair share of offroad - either for skiing or surfing. In either case that means the presence of salt (from the sea or road grit) so rust on the underside of wheel wells will be a big point to check. Also with roof poo poo check the roof isn't all scratched up For off road poo poo check for stone chips over the front, also check the glass On the "mighta been off roaded" note, Auckland has plenty of hills and speed bumps, use them to check for suspension squeaks as weight moves about As a 4wd check all tyres have been changed at the same times The one I test drove was real finnicky about the 4wd/2wd/diff lock switching, make sure your friend knows how to check if it's working before driving (e.g. does it need to be moving but below 10km/h to switch etc - then check it really does) Check the overdrive works if the auto has it, that meens getting it up to 100 Nissan were involved in airbag recalls I think, but the NZ government has an easy to use site to check any and all outstanding recalls, so give it a look first E: and if you're about for a beer or whatever feel free to drop me a PM (if you fancy it, if not no worries). I'll be doing winey things in Marlborough over the next week then back up in Auckland again after simplefish fucked around with this message at 09:44 on Dec 4, 2019 |
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Dec 4, 2019 09:32
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Hi all - Dreaded BMW DPF question... I have a 2015/65 (UK) BMW 120D (F20) with 43k miles. At the start of this year it had the EGR Valve fixed under a manufacturer recall. Recently a “Drivetrain: Check Soon” warning came up and I had it checked out. I was told that the oil had diluted a little with diesel and had to be replaced with a new filter etc and the DPF should be regenerated (not cleared). This was done and the codes reset. Shortly after the light came back on and the code was “Exhaust Back Pressure/DPF”. I got it checked again was told it was “83% blocked” and they said it would have to be replaced. Another opinion from a local BMW specialist (independent, ex dealership) was just to run it down the motorway then get the light cleared and it would be fine. Any recommendations? I don’t want to start going blind and going down endless diagnostics, additives, cleaning process etc if I really don’t have to! Thanks in advance!
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Dec 4, 2019 14:05
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Hi AI - my dad has a 2001 or 2002 VW GTI that he loves and has rebuilt most of. The radio sucks though and I would like to get him a replacement with Bluetooth and the like but don't know which aftermarket options are compatible. Anyone have any recommendations?
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Dec 4, 2019 16:09
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Pedestrian Xing posted:Hi AI - my dad has a 2001 or 2002 VW GTI that he loves and has rebuilt most of. The radio sucks though and I would like to get him a replacement with Bluetooth and the like but don't know which aftermarket options are compatible. Anyone have any recommendations? https://www.crutchfield.com/car/carselector.aspx?lp=%2fcar%2foutfitmycar%2fmycar.aspx
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Dec 4, 2019 17:21
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Might want to try the car audio thread too, it's not stickied but pretty active from what I can tell: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3520908
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Dec 4, 2019 19:24
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Quick dumb engine oil question: Got a 2009 Dodge Avenger ( ) 100,000+ miles on it. Should I be switching to something besides SAE 5w-20? 5w-30? High Millage ? Blends? Full Synth? Just trying to keep it maintained with the correct stuff.
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Dec 4, 2019 22:57
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I want to examine/check all the things that make up my car, so I can find out if there are any hidden issues. Is there a big checklist I could consult? Also interested in the answers to the oil question above.
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Dec 4, 2019 23:05
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ShortyMR.CAT posted:Quick dumb engine oil question: Got a 2009 Dodge Avenger ( High mileage, if I recall correctly, generally has taqueso posted:I want to examine/check all the things that make up my car, so I can find out if there are any hidden issues. Is there a big checklist I could consult?
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Dec 4, 2019 23:11
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Ty for the quick answer. Time for an oil change!
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Dec 5, 2019 00:40
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Is thinning out the oil for winter a thing? The PO of my car said they were running 0W30 instead of 5W30 in winter.
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Dec 5, 2019 01:53
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taqueso posted:Is thinning out the oil for winter a thing? The PO of my car said they were running 0W30 instead of 5W30 in winter. As to the wisdom ... eh, it makes sense at some level, but I've never lived anywhere near cold enough to require it, so I haven't had to worry about it. One of our Canadian friends can probably answer that better.
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Dec 5, 2019 02:03
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The PO was from the PNW and recently moved to Nebraska so maybe he was being extra prepared. I might be misremembering, but is 0Wxx oil a semi-recent thing to be generally available?
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Dec 5, 2019 02:15
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I've used Mobil 1 High Mileage for all my cars over 100k since forever. Good detergent package, good oil. Only use heavier oil than factory spec if you're certain your bearings are getting a little loose. The owner's manual for your car will also provide specifications if you are in an extremely low or high temperature environment.
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Dec 5, 2019 03:34
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taqueso posted:The PO was from the PNW and recently moved to Nebraska so maybe he was being extra prepared. How recent is semi-recent? I learned to drive in the early 90s and the lowest weight I remember being available was 10w30, I ran that in winter and 10w40 in summer although that was probably pointless. If my memory is accurate, 5 weight and lower only came about when synthetic oils became available which was like the mid/late 90s. I think Mobil 1 had a 5w50 and it kind of blew my mind that the viscosity range could be so wide in a single oil.
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Dec 5, 2019 03:36
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taqueso posted:Is thinning out the oil for winter a thing? The PO of my car said they were running 0W30 instead of 5W30 in winter. The whole point of multi-viscosity oil is not having to change it in winter. The W is the winter viscosity - 0W30 means it acts like a 0 weight oil when cold, 30 when hot. You would not see any measurable difference between 0W30 and 5W30.
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Dec 5, 2019 03:39
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I thought it was engine is cold vs warm, not winter vs summer?
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Dec 5, 2019 04:49
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taqueso posted:I thought it was engine is cold vs warm, not winter vs summer? When you start your car in winter it tends to be much colder than summer
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Dec 5, 2019 04:53
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taqueso posted:I want to examine/check all the things that make up my car, so I can find out if there are any hidden issues. Is there a big checklist I could consult? I bought a car with loads of previous owners. I also have a massive 3 week road trip coming up. Next service interval (I'm doing a lot of miles, I hit the "annual service or at x distance" in about 2-3 months) I'm thinking of: - full fluid flush (oil and filter, coolant, awd transfer, ATF, brake fluid maybe?, and differential) - oil filter of course - check air filter and cabin air filter - change spark plugs (service history from 3 years ago said "probably replace soon" but they were never replaced according to service history since) - tyre alignment and pressures check (I'd do a rotation but I reckon at this rate I'll be needing new rubber before too long, tyres ain't exactly new) - brakes check - check screenwash before I set off - wiper blades seem ok for now - A/C seems ok - all bulbs ok - spare wheel ok, have jack and correct socket for wheel nuts too, know how to get to it as well - battery check Quick questions, actually, now I'm giving it thought: - is power steering fluid generally a lifetime thing? - how to check brake fluid condition too? - how often is the fuel filter changed? - anything else I should check? I realise the first 3 are all googlable, but this list is as much an aide memoir as anything else simplefish fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Dec 5, 2019 |
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Dec 5, 2019 05:08
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taqueso posted:The PO was from the PNW and recently moved to Nebraska so maybe he was being extra prepared. "Semi-recent" meaning last 15+ years, sure. When my C10 got the LS, the favorite oil at the time was German-made Castrol 0w40. That particular grade is still somewhat rare but 0w20 is loving everywhere because Honda and a few other large automakers like it. To me, weird oils are the new ones Toyota likes - 0w16 and thinner.
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Dec 5, 2019 05:48
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I found what Volvo says:
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Dec 5, 2019 05:57
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simplefish posted:I bought a car with loads of previous owners. I'd change the brake fluid if you don't know the last time it was done, though you could always just look at it. Old brake fluid gets cloudy and dark. I'd also apply Aquapel or equivalent for your windshield. Or, if you're like me, on every single window including the side mirrors. I love that stuff.
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Dec 5, 2019 06:00
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Deteriorata posted:I posted a picture earlier of exactly the fuse you need to look at. It's labeled #17 in the box under the dash, middle of the bottom row. It controls the power plug and the radio. Ty for the quick reply. Just found out my horn stopped working today as well.
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Dec 5, 2019 11:25
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My wife's OEM battery on her 2014 Honda Odyssey crapped out last week. I got her a replacement battery, correct size and, etc and when I installed it, her battery terminals weren't making good contact with the cables, even when I had them tightened to maximum. As a result, she some time loses connection and it won't start. Is there something I can shim them with to get a good connection until I have time to replace the cables/clamps?
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Dec 5, 2019 14:03
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tactlessbastard posted:My wife's OEM battery on her 2014 Honda Odyssey crapped out last week. I got her a replacement battery, correct size and, etc and when I installed it, her battery terminals weren't making good contact with the cables, even when I had them tightened to maximum. As a result, she some time loses connection and it won't start. Is there something I can shim them with to get a good connection until I have time to replace the cables/clamps? Dumb question, and don't be offended but something doesn't sound right here...are you sure you have the clamps all the down? Reason I ask is they are a taper fit.
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Dec 5, 2019 14:28
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C-Bangin' it 
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Yeah, in that situation with worn out battery cables, I loosen the bolt all the way, then use a socket and a hammer to tap the terminal as far down as it will go. If somehow that doesn't work, it's time for new battery cables, but shoving any sort of conductive metal between the terminal and the cable to help it grip would at least be a temporary bodge. A chunk of stripped wire, for example.
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Dec 5, 2019 15:22
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Colostomy Bag posted:Dumb question, and don't be offended but something doesn't sound right here...are you sure you have the clamps all the down? Reason I ask is they are a taper fit. I'll check when I get home, thanks.
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Dec 5, 2019 15:24
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zaepg posted:Ty for the quick reply. Just found out my horn stopped working today as well. I had problems with blown fuses and strange electric stuff (in an old nissan/datsun pickup) when the voltage regulator went bad.
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Dec 5, 2019 17:27
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tactlessbastard posted:I'll check when I get home, thanks. It's worth a shot. Combination of things, manufacturing tolerances, wear, etc. That last fraction of inch to get that clamp fully seated against the base before you tighten can make all the difference. Once tightened, try to give the cables a twist with your hand. If they don't go nowhere, should be good to go.
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Dec 5, 2019 18:03
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tactlessbastard posted:My wife's OEM battery on her 2014 Honda Odyssey crapped out last week. I got her a replacement battery, correct size and, etc and when I installed it, her battery terminals weren't making good contact with the cables, even when I had them tightened to maximum. As a result, she some time loses connection and it won't start. Is there something I can shim them with to get a good connection until I have time to replace the cables/clamps? Depending on where you got it, there might actually be a shim. I know for a fact (ask me how I know...) at autozone that the midrange duralast battery the computer spits out for a 4cylinder 2007 accord has a smaller negative terminal than the OEM clamp is designed for... so they have shims at the ready.
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Dec 5, 2019 19:22
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I am considering buying a used vehicle from out of state. Perhaps in the Los Angeles, CA area (for example - this could change). Any advice on how to find a mechanic in the area to do a PPI on the car before I fly out to buy a car? Once I have a city/area locked down should I just post again in this thread for goon tips? Or [insert other option]?
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Dec 5, 2019 23:25
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Yelp is probably the easy answer, certainly posting is viable as well. I'd try here and here. To your point, if not LA, try whatever local thread in LAN.
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Dec 5, 2019 23:36
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Is it smart to replace the front crank seal and the serpentine belt at the same time I send my car in for its timing belt replacement? This is on a 2003 Toyota Highlander that is a bit overdue for its timing belt to be replaced.
PoorUser fucked around with this message at 06:48 on Dec 6, 2019 |
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Dec 6, 2019 06:32
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PoorUser posted:Is it smart to replace the front crank seal and the serpentine belt at the same time I send my car in for its timing belt replacement? This is on a 2003 Toyota Highlander that is a bit overdue for its timing belt to be replaced. Serpentine belt 100% absolutely, it's coming off regardless so it's just the cost of the part. Front crank seal somebody more familiar with that engine would need to answer. I presume it's the V6.
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Dec 6, 2019 07:58
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PoorUser posted:Is it smart to replace the front crank seal and the serpentine belt at the same time I send my car in for its timing belt replacement? This is on a 2003 Toyota Highlander that is a bit overdue for its timing belt to be replaced. Yes. They have to pull the crank pulley & timing cover in order to do the timing belt. The seal's in the cover. It'll never be cheaper.
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Dec 6, 2019 08:02
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