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I always do front crank seal (and cam seals on my Honda B's and D's) when I do a timing belt. Takes all of 15-30 minutes once you have all the poo poo off the front of the motor, and it's literally ripe for the picking  Generally, If I'm doing a job that takes longer than a couple hours, and it affords me access a seal without much more trouble, I'll replace it. There's not many things more irritating than a seal that starts leaking a week or two after you could have changed it for another ten minutes of your time, but hey now you get to do a three hour teardown for a $10 part. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Dec 6, 2019 |
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Dec 6, 2019 13:10
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This is from the Taycan review video posted in the EV thread: I gather this type of system exists on more than this car. What magic makes it possible to get those views of the car?
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Dec 6, 2019 21:29
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Super fisheye cameras all around, impressive unskewing algorithms to make the images flat again, and a fake car being superimposed. Also, magic. I bet it projects the images onto a skybox ala texture mapping in Doom from 1993 and gives you a virtual camera in that space.
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Dec 6, 2019 21:36
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That's incredible. And the aftermarket stuff isn't even super expensive. Another thing I didn't know I needed.
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Dec 6, 2019 21:50
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Thanks for the responses guys! Another stupid question. My a/f sensors were busted and throwing a check engine code. So my dealership suggested an electronic fuel injection and induction service kit to clean the fuel system out after the sensors are replaced. It was not cheap. Can't I just buy one of those Chevron Techron fuel system cleaning additives and add it to my gas tank to accomplish the same thing for $8?
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Dec 7, 2019 00:38
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How much is the kit and what does it include? Looks like you can buy remanufactured injectors at AutoZone for $50 each. (For a comparison, not that you need to buy injectors)
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Dec 7, 2019 00:44
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Krakkles posted:Yelp is probably the easy answer, certainly posting is viable as well. I'd try here and here. To your point, if not LA, try whatever local thread in LAN. Thanks for this btw!
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Dec 7, 2019 00:51
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taqueso posted:How much is the kit and what does it include? Looks like you can buy remanufactured injectors at AutoZone for $50 each. (For a comparison, not that you need to buy injectors) It costs $315 with tax. Which is $55 in parts and two hours labor for $236. Before tax. It doesn't say what all it includes and I didn't ask, it was something they put on the paper when I went to have them diagnose my check engine light for the busted a/f sensors. They just said it needed an "EFI/IND KIT." PoorUser fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Dec 7, 2019 |
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Dec 7, 2019 01:07
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yeah i'd pass on that
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Dec 7, 2019 01:18
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I'd be more concerned about your cat than your fueling if you've been running with a bad frony o2 sensor. But I'm not a mechanic so don't listen to me. Regardless, replace the o2 and go from there. And find a new shop.
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Dec 7, 2019 02:57
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hello, i need to hire a company to transport a vehicle in the USA from colorado to virginia. not a large vehicle, just a mid-90s 2-door convertible. ive not done this sort of thing before but im aware that there are a lot of unscrupulous people who will offer to take your car and then just disappear with it or gently caress things up somehow. does AI have any recommendations for reliable companies that do this sort of thing? ive done some googling and ive found a few so far like roadrunner auto transport, montway auto transport, amerifreight, ship a car direct, and sherpa auto transport, who all appear to be brokering companies and not transporters themselves, but i figured id ask for more opinions here. thank you edit: a large issue im having is that almost all of these companies have a lot of negative reviews from yelp, and of course satisfied people are less inclined to post about their experience. google reviews however usually paint a more positive picture, and im unsure if this is due to some sort of bias either way in google/yelp's review system. ship a car direct seems to be the company with the most consistently high reviews, and a decent number of them (followed by amerifreight), but of course there are quite a few negative reviews still. sherpa auto transport is also highly-rated at the moment, but it is a young company so the reviews are more scarce. is shipping the car even particularly worthwhile to consider or would it be better to drive it myself? sea of losers fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Dec 7, 2019 |
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Dec 7, 2019 13:39
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sea of losers posted:i need to hire a company to transport a vehicle in the USA from colorado to virginia. I just needed a 40 mile tow and ended up doing it myself but https://www.autostartransport.com seemed legit to me. There are a ton of car transport owner-operators and you have to have a bond to get a motor carrier permit.
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Dec 7, 2019 16:46
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Lilbro got a new old truck, '67 F100 just like our grandpa had. It's currently red, was repainted dark blue before that, body tag says Frost Turquoise. The factory paint looks pretty good in the places the two other coats are flaking off. Is there any easy way to strip it down to the factory paint?
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Dec 7, 2019 17:19
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Chillbro Baggins posted:Lilbro got a new old truck, '67 F100 just like our grandpa had. It's currently red, was repainted dark blue before that, body tag says Frost Turquoise. The factory paint looks pretty good in the places the two other coats are flaking off. Is there any easy way to strip it down to the factory paint? First thing I’d point out is that people don’t usually repaint their cars (or trucks) because they don’t like the color - it’s much more common for it to be because they’re repairing / covering something. Second, theoretically, you could sand the paint down, and attempt to get it looking good again, but by the time you’re done with that, it would’ve been cheaper to just strip it and paint it the factory color again.
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Dec 7, 2019 19:33
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Chunjee posted:I just needed a 40 mile tow and ended up doing it myself but https://www.autostartransport.com seemed legit to me. There are a ton of car transport owner-operators and you have to have a bond to get a motor carrier permit. i didnt mean to be unclear but when i said "drive it myself," i meant to drive the car itself from colorado to virginia on my own. the vehicle is in relatively good shape considering its age but i wouldnt want to add ~2000miles to it unless i had to. i have been finding that apparently ship a car direct, amerifreight, and sherpa auto transport seem to have relatively good reviews but if anyone has any additional insight i would appreciate hearing it. thanks again sea of losers fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Dec 7, 2019 |
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Dec 7, 2019 21:42
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Krakkles posted:Short answer: no. I thought so. He wants to paint it Wimbledon white like Grandpa's anyway, so a lot of aircraft remover and sanding is in his future. I won't let him respray it over the three coats of paint, two of which are flaking off in spots. Also he's going to have to learn to weld sheetmetal, it has a bit of rust. Right now he's got the mechanicals mostly fixed, it's driveable. Should I make a project thread about this? It's not my project, but I'm helping (well, offering to help, Lilbro is one of those guys that doesn't ever accept offers to help.)
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Dec 7, 2019 21:52
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sea of losers posted:the vehicle is in relatively good shape considering its age but i wouldnt want to add ~2000miles to it unless i had to. Why? If this is an economic decision based on fuel, tires and maintenance consumables there is absolutely no way it works out better for you financially to ship it, no matter who the carrier is.
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Dec 7, 2019 23:15
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sea of losers posted:i didnt mean to be unclear but when i said "drive it myself," i meant to drive the car itself from colorado to virginia on my own. the vehicle is in relatively good shape considering its age but i wouldnt want to add ~2000miles to it unless i had to. i have been finding that apparently ship a car direct, amerifreight, and sherpa auto transport seem to have relatively good reviews but if anyone has any additional insight i would appreciate hearing it. thanks again Motronic posted:Why? Yeah, this. Unless it's a very low mileage one you're planning on flipping, it probably makes more sense to drive it provided you have the time. There are worse things to do than see the country and put two thousand easy highway miles on it. OTOH I suppose it is winter and there are some fairly boring states between CO and Virginia. The guys in the "importing a car from Japan" thread will probably have some recs for a vehicle freight service.
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Dec 8, 2019 00:16
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Yeah, this. Unless it's a very low mileage one you're planning on flipping, it probably makes more sense to drive it provided you have the time. There are worse things to do than see the country and put two thousand easy highway miles on it. OTOH I suppose it is winter and there are some fairly boring states between CO and Virginia. the "winter" and "boring states" are some of the big reasons, yeah. the other is that im in virginia so id have to spend a few hundred $ just to get to where the car currently is, so that cost would be added to the fuel, maintenance, and food/drink id be consuming during the drive. the thing has ~160k miles on it and its a car i intend to own, so no im not flipping it. if i have to go out there then drive it back then id be willing to do so, but i cant really afford to spend money on hotels and such. that wouldnt be a problem in summer, but it's winter. anyway if this question is more appropriate for the import thread i can go ask there, its just that im not sure that international shipping companies are also doing a lot of intra-USA shipping. maybe im wrong though, i dont know.
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Dec 8, 2019 02:33
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sea of losers posted:the "winter" and "boring states" are some of the big reasons, yeah. the other is that im in virginia so id have to spend a few hundred $ just to get to where the car currently is, so that cost would be added to the fuel, maintenance, and food/drink id be consuming during the drive. the thing has ~160k miles on it and its a car i intend to own, so no im not flipping it. if i have to go out there then drive it back then id be willing to do so, but i cant really afford to spend money on hotels and such. that wouldnt be a problem in summer, but it's winter. Have you had any services quote you yet? An open car hauler will probably be ~$800 at a guess. I got some quotes for TN to OR which is obviously further but the quotes were in the $1200 range IIRC. I'm guessing 2-3 days drive depending on your grit and the weather cooperating, the final day of which you'll be home to sleep in your bed. Not sure on your MPG but lovely motels are 50-80 a night and eat some poo poo mcdonalds plus whatever for a one way flight, likely to come out cheaper versus a hauler. Of course this assumption rests on you not cutting into your working hours and paycheck by doing the fly/drive so maybe the car hauler router makes more sense if you can't fit it into your work schedule.
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Dec 8, 2019 02:40
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sea of losers posted:the "winter" and "boring states" are some of the big reasons, yeah. the other is that im in virginia so id have to spend a few hundred $ just to get to where the car currently is, so that cost would be added to the fuel, maintenance, and food/drink id be consuming during the drive. the thing has ~160k miles on it and its a car i intend to own, so no im not flipping it. if i have to go out there then drive it back then id be willing to do so, but i cant really afford to spend money on hotels and such. that wouldnt be a problem in summer, but it's winter. Have you considered just selling it and buying a similar car in your own neighborhood?
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Dec 8, 2019 02:50
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tangy yet delightful posted:Have you had any services quote you yet? An open car hauler will probably be ~$800 at a guess. ... Of course this assumption rests on you not cutting into your working hours and paycheck by doing the fly/drive so maybe the car hauler router makes more sense if you can't fit it into your work schedule. yes, the open car hauler comes out from $775-$900 depending on where i go for the quote. and yeah it would cut into my work hours significantly, and yeah $50-80/night for a hotel is too much for me right now. Corla Plankun posted:Have you considered just selling it and buying a similar car in your own neighborhood? yes, and from asking a few people about it they regard the car im trying to get as the better option, at least for the moment. the car im trying to get has had a full inspection, had its tires, battery, and windshield replaced, and is otherwise in fairly good repair for a vehicle as old as it is, its being sold to me for a song, and the seller is offering to help pay for part of the shipping. theyre basically doing me a big favor here. it wouldnt be my first choice of vehicle, but i need a vehicle very badly right now to get better work and this is what's available to me without having to trawl through facebook/craigslist for someone trying to offload a beater with issues that they dont reveal to me when i buy it. as previously suggested, ive posted the question in the import thread so i can monitor that thread for responses. i apologize if im jamming up things here. sea of losers fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Dec 8, 2019 |
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Dec 8, 2019 03:07
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sea of losers posted:yes, and from asking a few people about it they regard the car im trying to get as the better option, at least for the moment. the car im trying to get has had a full inspection, had its tires, battery, and windshield replaced, and is otherwise in fairly good repair for a vehicle as old as it is, its being sold to me for a song, and the seller is offering to help pay for part of the shipping. quote:a beater with issues that they dont reveal to me when i buy it. Edit: If you do go through with it, 1600 miles is easy, if you have a co-driver or stop for the night. I've cannonballed from Dallas to Vegas and back, and Dallas to upstate NY and back, the latter more than once. Though, tbh, we stopped at a hotel on one of the NY trips, and the other one we stopped at a McDonalds somewhere on I-90 that wasn't technically open yet, but they let us in and let us take a nap in a booth because we were so tired. On the way back, I took over driving in Memphis, washed down two No-Doz with a NOS energy drink, and ... I don't remember Arkansas. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Dec 8, 2019 |
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Dec 8, 2019 07:15
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A couple of times a week, our ‘13 Escape does this thing where when you try to accelerate from a stop, it just lunges a little then loses power and stalls. I can slam it into park, turn the key and restart the engine just fine. It seems to always happens early on a drive. Like I can idle around a parking lot a bit, but then the first time I try to accelerate onto a main road, the car will stall. My wife’s afraid it’s going to leave her stranded across an intersection, and I have no idea where to begin troubleshooting since there are no check-engine codes. What’s the best course of action here?
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Dec 9, 2019 04:16
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I'm sure someone here will know the solution but meanwhile I think you can start the engine in neutral so you don't have to go all the way to park, though as always will need your foot on the brake. That might make it a little easier to handle.
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Dec 9, 2019 04:27
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eddiewalker posted:A couple of times a week, our ‘13 Escape does this thing where when you try to accelerate from a stop, it just lunges a little then loses power and stalls. I can slam it into park, turn the key and restart the engine just fine. It sat for a while with a half a tank of fuel in it so the tank ended up getting some corrosion on the inside that would flake off and clog the filter.
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Dec 9, 2019 04:39
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Yeah, fuel filter is cheap and easy to replace, and even if it turns out its not what's causing the problem, you're out  , no big deal, and it wouldn't hurt to replace it anyway.
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Dec 9, 2019 05:08
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I bought a car with an extra fuel filter (why it hadn't been fitted I have no idea) and the oil change people charged me under $6 US to throw it on there while doing the other fluids.
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Dec 9, 2019 05:20
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Chillbro Baggins posted:Yeah, fuel filter is cheap and easy to replace, and even if it turns out its not what's causing the problem, you're out It appears that this Escape has a “lifetime” filter inside the fuel tank, so I guess that’s a no-go.
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Dec 9, 2019 06:03
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eddiewalker posted:It appears that this Escape has a “lifetime” filter inside the fuel tank, so I guess that’s a no-go. and this is why I stick with older cars. 
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Dec 9, 2019 06:09
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Everywhere I look on the internet has various opinions on whether or not you should change your fluids regularly. Varying from "only if it looks like it's bad" to "every x amount of miles" to "only if your maintenance manual says so." Does AI have an opinion on this? Specifically, the brake fluid and power steering fluid?
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Dec 9, 2019 19:37
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I've only swapped out my power steering fluid once, and the only reason was because one of the hoses failed. Brake fluid I did once on another old car where the brake master cylinder died. For power steering and brake fluids, unless the manual says otherwise, I generally treat it as "lifetime" and never flush it out unless something was leaking.
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Dec 9, 2019 19:56
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All fluids have issues that occur over time (break down, burning, water absorption, etc) and should be maintained (including “replaced”). I’d definitely say that from there, when you should do it, the answer is usually the manual. If it doesn’t have the answer or if you don’t trust the answer, it’s a matter of googling and finding good opinions. (Or, if you ask here and specify the car and any related info (is it having problems?), I’d bet someone here has personal experience.) Usually I find myself doing it only as repairs require outside of the manual specifications, and it’s definitely not a yearly thing, but when it looks problematic, every few years, or after a large number of miles are good metrics as well. I hesitate to be more specific than that because it DOES vary by manufacturer/model.
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Dec 9, 2019 20:01
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Brake fluid should be changed yearly. If you haven't flushed your brake system in awhile (2+ years), give it a go, I bet you'll be surprised at how much better the system works with fresh fluid. You should also be changing fluids in gearboxes (including power steering!) according to your service intervals. As metal parts wear, those metal particles go into the fluid, and degrade the lubricative efficacy of those fluids. Also, these fluids are subject to thermal breakdown. It's just like engine oil. TL;DR: RTFM Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Dec 9, 2019 |
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Dec 9, 2019 20:37
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Your car's brake fluid can look fine in the reservoir but all the fluid down near the brakes is getting cooked daily. I replace fluids early and often because the PO is always an idiot. The manual is a good guideline but the manufacturer would be just as happy to sell a whole new car. Their definition of "lifetime" and mine are different.
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Dec 9, 2019 20:52
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my friend has a Mazdaspeed 3 and while she was cruising on the highway to work she said the RPM suddenly flew off the charts even though she was in top gear and the car died and won't start again i can only guess that the timing belt (or chain bcuz Mazda?) broke but iirc the car only has like 60 or 80k miles on it? anyway IF that's the case i'm assuming the car is totaled and if so, then what are her options? i think she got it from a dealership and has a loan on it which idk too much about because i've usually just paid for every car i've owned with cash so idk what sort of advice to give her  ...fwiw everything but the engine is in perfect condition but people that own this car generally keep them in very good condition
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Dec 9, 2019 21:28
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Thief posted:my friend has a Mazdaspeed 3 and while she was cruising on the highway to work she said the RPM suddenly flew off the charts even though she was in top gear and the car died and won't start again Not enough information. Sounds to me like the throttle got stuck open or fuel injection has gone haywire and is flooding the engine. Would hope for anything but a timing issue.
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Dec 9, 2019 21:32
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worst case scenario is it's irrecoverable damage and if so what could she even do? just sell it as is on craigslist or part it out? i've been telling her for months to get rid of it and get a cheap Toyota because she doesn't even seem to care about oil changes, she just wanted it because Mazda 3s are cute lol
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Dec 9, 2019 21:43
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Thief posted:worst case scenario is it's irrecoverable damage and if so what could she even do? just sell it as is on craigslist or part it out? Parting out a car is not a job someone with no experience just does. It requires a ton of storage space, a bunch of tools, a poo poo load of time, packaig materials, etc. All for basically minimum wage or less. Unless it's something truly special (it's not, it's a common car that isn't terribly desirable and parts are cheap and plentiful), and even then there's only likely to be a handful of parts truly worth the effort.
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Dec 9, 2019 22:09
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Did the RPMs actually jump, or was it just the tach?
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Dec 9, 2019 22:11
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