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Volmarias posted:Bumping since it's been about a day. Should I just find the cheapest option that supports everything I already have? Is there anything I should watch out for? Someone's selling a Z170 in SA Mart right now, you can probably get it for a song. As Mu Zeta said it's a dead platform so you're stuck with what you can get.
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Dec 9, 2019 05:05
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General Maximus posted:I'm not sure the monitor there is actually the same one, it's listed on the supplier site as Acer Nitro VG271P but the specs look the same. Decided to stick with 1080p to give myself more room for games demanding more performance before I have to start turning down settings. Also some of the games I play I'm not sure actually support 1440p cause they're older. Yeah, monitor model numbers and can be a real mess, I was tearing my hair out trying to research all the different types when I was buying. Just be aware that 27" is pretty much the extreme limit you want to have a 1080p monitor at, as pixel density goes out the window and starts to look not so good at such large sizes, but it's totally personal preference and differs between people anyway. I'd stick with a 24" with the same specs, but obviously availability is a concern too. And yeah, a lot of older games only run at 1080p (and 60fps too), but most 1440p monitors downscale well. At least they'll run butter-smooth on your hardware (don't forget to use DisplayPort, not HDMI). Glad you've come in way under-budget, too. Coucho Marx fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Dec 9, 2019 |
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Dec 9, 2019 05:06
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General Maximus posted:Might just save myself the $140 extra and take the chance, then. Though on a second look the reason it's so much more expensive is that one's 32GB, not 16. Which is way more than I need, but they don't sell a 16GB version of the same one - or possibly they do but that specific model isn't on the QVL as a 16GB one. You can buy a flash drive for like $7. Don't spend $200 on Windows. Just use it for free and I wouldn't be surprised if they just make it free soon.
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Dec 9, 2019 05:07
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paying more than 20 bucks for windows 10 pro is ridiculous. Buy a flash disk and buy from the goon or don't pay at all. I replaced the stock cooler from the 3700x with the noctua nh-u14s and its so much better. At full speed its makes only a fraction of the noise the wraith prism did at 50%, but it also never ever has to spin up that high. Also that thermal paste they slap on the wraith prism had melted and dripped all over and around the socket so I had to clean it up, what the hell why'd they use so much
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Dec 9, 2019 06:03
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General Maximus posted:Might just save myself the $140 extra and take the chance, then. Though on a second look the reason it's so much more expensive is that one's 32GB, not 16. Which is way more than I need, but they don't sell a 16GB version of the same one - or possibly they do but that specific model isn't on the QVL as a 16GB one. Kind of odd you can't find a single kit of 3200 RAM from your retailer on that list. It is a huge list but I wouldn't sweat it too much. It is just my little disclaimer in case you do run into trouble.
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Dec 9, 2019 07:08
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Back to my motherboard woes, what's the difference between the MSI Gaming Pro Max, Tomahawk Max, and Pro-A Max? I see the available ports on the back are a bit different and heatsink designs as well, but is there any benefit for a 3600X user on one or the other? I still have a Tomahawk Max on order from Amazon, just waiting for it to be delivered.
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Dec 9, 2019 07:32
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Bank posted:Back to my motherboard woes, what's the difference between the MSI Gaming Pro Max, Tomahawk Max, and Pro-A Max? I see the available ports on the back are a bit different and heatsink designs as well, but is there any benefit for a 3600X user on one or the other? I still have a Tomahawk Max on order from Amazon, just waiting for it to be delivered. The gaming plus max and -a pro max are effectively the same board outside of aesthetic design and the -a pro’s vga port (which isn’t usable with a non-apu Ryzen anyway). Compared to the Tomahawk Max, they have two type-A usb 3.1 gen 2 ports instead of a type-A + type-C, and have a bit worse VRM cooling. The VRM difference isn’t enough to be important for a 3600x unless you’re attempting an extreme overclock, but 3rd-gen Ryzen doesn’t have enough overhead to make overclocking worthwhile anyway! If you think the type-c port will be useful, stick with the Tomahawk and you’ll have a bit of extra juice if you drop in a more power-hungry chip down the line. If not, the -a pro or gaming plus are just fine!
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Dec 9, 2019 07:56
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I'd like to make personal digital backups of quite a few Blu Rays I own. Not interested in doing any piracy stuff, I'm sure someone else will have put various crappy quality copies online anyway. In any case, is there some kind of blu ray drive that'll allow me to do this without any DRM interfering?
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Dec 9, 2019 10:41
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Rookoo posted:I'd like to make personal digital backups of quite a few Blu Rays I own. Not interested in doing any piracy stuff, I'm sure someone else will have put various crappy quality copies online anyway. In any case, is there some kind of blu ray drive that'll allow me to do this without any DRM interfering? I don't think you need a special drive. Get MakeMKV
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Dec 9, 2019 12:33
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All right, so the PC I built a couple years ago for gaming is starting to perform increasingly poorly on new games and I figure it's time for an upgrade. I'm in Canada, for the record. The RAM and CPU chug quite often so they're my primary targets, but a new graphics card might be necessary too. I don't want to play the most graphically intense games on Ultra quality or anything, I just want to not have to worry about infuriatingly long load times and constant hanging when playing a game on its default settings. My budget for parts is tentatively 500 dollars, but I'm willing to go a bit higher if necessary. For those of you who remember how badly I struggled building this PC, I'm going to buy the parts and just give them to a computer maintenance store guy this time around.
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Dec 9, 2019 13:34
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Your GPU, hard drive, and maybe system bloat are more likely to be causing the issues than your cpu, which should still be decent for a 60Hz monitor outside a few of the most demanding games (though upgrading to 16gb of ram could help too). What games are you having issues with, and do you have them installed on an ssd? E: Do you have a micro ATX case, or a full ATX case? (that matters for making motherboard replacement recommendations) Stickman fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Dec 9, 2019 |
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Dec 9, 2019 13:47
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McCoy Pauley posted:I'm looking to replace my 7+ year old Windows desktop with something that I plan to use primarily for recording/producing music with Cubase and Ableton Live, messing around with Lightroom and Photoshop, and maybe also some gaming, but nothing more than 1080p. I'm currently using a Steinberg audio interface with USB 2.0, and I suppose it's possible at some point in the future I might be looking at interfaces with USB-C, but I doubt I'll end up needing Thunderbolt. My primary concern is a machine that is powerful enough to run whatever I throw at it in Cubase and Ableton, and to ensure that DPC latency is not a problem when I'm recording. To that end I'm looking at SSDs to keep all my applications, and a big old platter drive to store stuff I don't need fast access to, like tons of family photos and home video currently on my old desktop. You probably know more about processor requirements for your music production than people here. But you are getting a top notch processor so I can't imagine problems for most people. The only comment I have is that the Intel 660p is a budget drive that's not as durable as real drives like the Rocket Sabrent and HP EX920. Spend the extra $10 for 3 times the write durability.
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Dec 9, 2019 14:07
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I have a very RAM specific question, I'm kind of murky on exactly how big a difference frequency and timings make these days. I have a 7700k with a mild overclock to 4.6, an Samsung 860 EVO m.2 drive as C:/ and an RTX 2070 on an MSI Z270-A Pro. Currently running 16 GB (2x8) of DDR4-3000 with 15-16-16-35 timing, I've been contemplating upgrading my ram and I'm looking at a 32 GB set (2x16) of DDR4-3600 (the board supports up to 3800 according to specs when I bought it) with 16-19-19-39 timings. I do use XMPP and the OC Genie stuff as well. How much of a difference would that make versus just buying 2 more sticks of what I've already got?
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Dec 9, 2019 14:16
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Q_res posted:I have a very RAM specific question, I'm kind of murky on exactly how big a difference frequency and timings make these days. I have a 7700k with a mild overclock to 4.6, an Samsung 860 EVO m.2 drive as C:/ and an RTX 2070 on an MSI Z270-A Pro. Currently running 16 GB (2x8) of DDR4-3000 with 15-16-16-35 timing, I've been contemplating upgrading my ram and I'm looking at a 32 GB set (2x16) of DDR4-3600 (the board supports up to 3800 according to specs when I bought it) with 16-19-19-39 timings. I do use XMPP and the OC Genie stuff as well. How much of a difference would that make versus just buying 2 more sticks of what I've already got? Unless you know for a fact that you have some kind of workload that's memory bound in some way, or you're already planning on upgrading because 16GB isn't enough for something you need to do, I don't think you should bother. If you need 32GB then I'd recommend getting a matched kit rather than buying loose sticks or separate kits to add on to what you already have. More sticks and more memory in general adds additional load on the memory controller and kits are binned and rated for use alone, not together with other kits. In your case it's very unlikely to actually be a problem in practice though because of the relatively low speeds and slow timings, but memory OC and memory instability testing is a huge pain in the rear end that's absolutely not worth dealing with and RAM is really cheap again, so if you're going to the trouble and expense of buying new modules today, just go straight for a 32GB 3600 kit IMO.
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Dec 9, 2019 14:36
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Well just to be clear, what I'm looking at is either buying the exact same memory kit (same brand, spec, timings even part number) or replacing what I've got with the 32GB kit. I know better than to mix disparate RAM sticks. You're probably right in that 32 is likely overkill, but even if I just replaced my existing RAM with the same capacity of the different spec. Would it make much difference?
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Dec 9, 2019 14:43
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As far as games go you'll get another 2 or 3 fps maybe.
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Dec 9, 2019 14:56
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Q_res posted:Well just to be clear, what I'm looking at is either buying the exact same memory kit (same brand, spec, timings even part number) or replacing what I've got with the 32GB kit. I know better than to mix disparate RAM sticks. You're probably right in that 32 is likely overkill, but even if I just replaced my existing RAM with the same capacity of the different spec. Would it make much difference? Even buying an identical kit is not guaranteed to work - it's binned to work with 16GB and two sticks, adding two more puts more load on the IMC and could at least in theory lead to issues. Again though, in this case I'm almost certain it'd be just fine, I just wanted to make it clear that XMP timings and bandwidth ratings are for the kit, not for individual sticks or for combinations of sticks. I know it sounds weird, but it's true - memory OC is just weird. Anyway, to actually answer the question, going from 3000 CL16 to 3600CL16 is not likely to be a big improvement in most workloads. In games you might see a few percentage points better minimum frame times, probably. GamersNexus has some numbers for Ryzen at least. For productivity, it's gonna depend heavily on what you do.
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Dec 9, 2019 15:38
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ItBreathes posted:Someone's selling a Z170 in SA Mart right now, you can probably get it for a song. As Mu Zeta said it's a dead platform so you're stuck with what you can get. Alright, thanks to everyone who replied about this!
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Dec 9, 2019 15:48
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So, I just finished my new build this weekend, and now I've got an awful monitor flickering issue. My main monitor, this guy, https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QS0AKVK/ will either start flickering or just go black. Restarting the computer generally fixes it for a few hours. New video card is a PowerColor AMD Radeon 5700. I made sure I have the latest drivers using AMD's tool. My previous machine had an AMD card and didn't have this issue at all. My second monitor is an old ViewSonic, and it's been fine. I even tried using a different display port port on the card, but of course that didn't change anything. I'm hopeful that MicroCenter will let me return the video card and get a new one. I'm guessing I should try an NVidia card this time? What would be their equivalent card?
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Dec 9, 2019 16:45
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Did you try another cable
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Dec 9, 2019 16:54
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I don't have another one unfortunately.
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Dec 9, 2019 17:03
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Not even an HDMI cable? You could borrow one from your TV.
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Dec 9, 2019 17:06
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I will try an hdmi cable. This video card only has one hdmi port though, so I guess I'll only be able to use one monitor for now. Or I guess I can try plugging the second monitor into the onboard graphics card.
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Dec 9, 2019 17:14
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Lurdiak posted:All right, so the PC I built a couple years ago for gaming is starting to perform increasingly poorly on new games and I figure it's time for an upgrade. I'm in Canada, for the record. Sounds more like an aging 7 install more than anything, likely formatting and reinstalling Windows would largely fix your performance issues. But if you have Windows on a platter drive merely buying an SSD will be like a light speed upgrade. NickBlasta fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Dec 9, 2019 |
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Dec 9, 2019 17:15
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How much do I have to worry about memory timings/latency when buying RAM for a higher end Ryzen build? If it's 3600MHz is that gonna be more or less good enough?
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Dec 9, 2019 17:38
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NickBlasta posted:Sounds more like an aging 7 install more than anything, likely formatting and reinstalling Windows would largely fix your performance issues. This could definitely be a good place to start. Windows 10 often performs better on older hardware than 7 does so it's worth upgrading, would also potentially resolve any issues caused by bloatware or junkware kicking around on your system. And moving to an SSD if you're not on one already will also give you a very noticeable boost. It's also worth considering picking up a 4790 used, a lot of games now seem to expect more than 4 cores so 4c/4t processors have been struggling while old i7 chips are still chugging along. The new Modern War is a good example, a lot of people with even 6th and 7th gen i5 chips are reporting performance issues (and IIRC even GN was seeing major stutter issues with a 9600k in RDR2) while my 3rd gen i7 seems to run it fine.
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Dec 9, 2019 17:50
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Stickman posted:The gaming plus max and -a pro max are effectively the same board outside of aesthetic design and the -a pro’s vga port (which isn’t usable with a non-apu Ryzen anyway). Compared to the Tomahawk Max, they have two type-A usb 3.1 gen 2 ports instead of a type-A + type-C, and have a bit worse VRM cooling. The VRM difference isn’t enough to be important for a 3600x unless you’re attempting an extreme overclock, but 3rd-gen Ryzen doesn’t have enough overhead to make overclocking worthwhile anyway! Thanks Stickman! I think I'll just wait for the Tomahawk Max then. I don't really have a need for the ports, just trying to see if I can save $15 and in the process get my mobo in faster. I figure the Tomahawk population is so large that I shouldn't run into any issues.
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Dec 9, 2019 18:33
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The Milkman posted:How much do I have to worry about memory timings/latency when buying RAM for a higher end Ryzen build? If it's 3600MHz is that gonna be more or less good enough? Unless you're an enthusiast overclocker trying to get big numbers on synthetic benchmarks you don't really need to worry
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Dec 9, 2019 18:36
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The Milkman posted:How much do I have to worry about memory timings/latency when buying RAM for a higher end Ryzen build? If it's 3600MHz is that gonna be more or less good enough? If performance is a concern just make sure the RAM is on the motherboard's Qualified Vendors List (QVL) and enable XMP (or whatever the AMD equivalent is called at the moment). Running the standard JEDEC settings isn't super great for performance and buggy or unstable RAM profiles are a nightmare to debug. QVL RAM also helps with support/warranty issues if problems arise.
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Dec 9, 2019 18:44
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Bryter posted:Unless you're an enthusiast overclocker trying to get big numbers on synthetic benchmarks you don't really need to worry I don't care about squeezing every last drop in an OC, I just want to make sure I'm not hamstringing it because I don't know what 18-19-19-20-36 vs 18-18-19-18-36 means eames posted:If performance is a concern just make sure the RAM is on the motherboard's Qualified Vendors List (QVL) and enable XMP (or whatever the AMD equivalent is called at the moment). Running the standard JEDEC settings isn't super great for performance and buggy or unstable RAM profiles are a nightmare to debug. This I can manage Thanks
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Dec 9, 2019 18:57
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I think the sweet spot is actually 3200mhz and cas latency of 16 or lower. If the price is similar I'd get the cas 16 over the 18. You can get them for like $70 right now for 16 gigs. https://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-Ripj...75914357&sr=8-2 Gskill also has their own QVL list https://www.gskill.com/qvl/165/184/1562831134/F4-3600C16D-16GVKC-Qvl
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Dec 9, 2019 18:58
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Mu Zeta posted:I think the sweet spot is actually 3200mhz and cas latency of 16 or lower. If the price is similar I'd get the cas 16 over the 18. You can get them for like $70 right now for 16 gigs. FWIW, AMD say the Ryzen price/performance sweetspot for Ryzen 2 is 3600C15 or 3600C16
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Dec 9, 2019 19:25
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It's linked up-page but Gamers Nexus did some benchmarks and the gains fall into more the "measurable" range than the "perceivable" one, for gaming anyways.
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Dec 9, 2019 19:30
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Bryter posted:FWIW, AMD say the Ryzen price/performance sweetspot for Ryzen 2 is 3600C15 or 3600C16 AMD's statement wasn't about price, so far as I could tell - just a nebulous "sweet spot". There are sometimes one or two cheaper 3600/cl16 kits where you're only paying $15-20 over 3200/cl16, but when they're not available you'll be paying $50+ and the performance difference is so incredibly minor (in the situations where it exists at all) that it's tough to even recommend spending an extra $20.
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Dec 9, 2019 19:35
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I think this was the AMD slide from earlier in the year when the 3700X/3900X were being rolled out that mentions a sweet spot:
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Dec 9, 2019 20:08
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Lurdiak posted:For those of you who remember how badly I struggled building this PC, I'm going to buy the parts and just give them to a computer maintenance store guy this time around. Are you the goon who wanted to die because of the grief your build was giving you?
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Dec 9, 2019 22:38
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I just bought an i9-9900KF and I was wondering whether my old CPU cooler will cut it (I don't plan on overclocking it, at least for the time being). For the record, this is my motherboard. Is it ok or should I just get something better? Elman fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Dec 9, 2019 |
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Dec 9, 2019 23:03
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Elman posted:Is it ok or should I just get something better? Should be fine, it’s rated for 200W and the construction looks decent (copper base with heat pipes and a good amount of fins). Keep a eye on temperatures, they should stay below 90C when stress testing. Chances are that they will stay below 80C with this cooler.
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Dec 9, 2019 23:59
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Mu Zeta posted:You probably know more about processor requirements for your music production than people here. But you are getting a top notch processor so I can't imagine problems for most people. The only comment I have is that the Intel 660p is a budget drive that's not as durable as real drives like the Rocket Sabrent and HP EX920. Spend the extra $10 for 3 times the write durability. Thanks. The HP EX920 actually appears to be slightly cheaper on Amazon right now, so that's a no brainer.
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Dec 10, 2019 01:05
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So I caught up on BF, and bought the below Monitor, and then decided I needed a new computer anyways. My Budget is $1500, in the USA. I don't do much other than streaming, post processing HDR via Madvr, a lot of web browsing where I never close any tabs. I am currently on 3570k, and have noticed some slowdown I never saw before when seeking while playing video file. This will be driving the Dell3418, and a 4K HDTV. So this is the build I currently have on the way because they had deals available. I am only now researching the parts, and wanted to ask what yall would do? I am keeping from old system: Lian Li 330W- BNIB 650W EVGA G2 EVGA 1080 ti SC PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X 3.9 GHz 8-Core Processor Motherboard: MSI MPG X570 GAMING PRO CARBON WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard ($239.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive Bundle Pricing: $515.00 Storage: Western Digital Black NVMe 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($110) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($130.00) - not listed in mobo's qvl, but the 3200 with basically same stats otherwise is Monitor: Dell AW3418DW 34.1" 3440x1440 120 Hz Monitor ($560.00 @ Amazon) Total: $1315 For this, I would probably sell the Samsung EVO Plus and hopefully get ~80 back. The mobo apparently have a bad reputation on reddit, and I am concerned about heating so if the mobo is indeed causing much more heat than others, I will have to switch it out. Then I read this thread, and maybe my above plan wasn't the smartest? If i went with the Ryzen 5 3600($180), and b450 tomahawk($120) and substituted the bundle, I would save $200, but also lose that EVO Plus 500GB. If I sold that, it's abouve $120 savings really, it seems all the things I do, post processing video and other desktop stuff I do could use the extra cores, even if I am unlikely to ever reach that limit? that thought probly sounds dumb... Femur fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Dec 10, 2019 |
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Dec 10, 2019 01:12
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