Stickman posted:Your GPU, hard drive, and maybe system bloat are more likely to be causing the issues than your cpu, which should still be decent for a 60Hz monitor outside a few of the most demanding games (though upgrading to 16gb of ram could help too). I recently had a lot of trouble with Arkham Knight, some awful load times on Resident Evil 2 and Dragon Age Inquisition, and the worst experience so far has been the admittedly horribly optimized Star Wars Jedi: The Fallen Order. None of them are installed on my SSD, which is only 232 gigs and filled up a long time ago. This is the exact ATX part I bought: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/WpgPxr/msi-video-card-gtx960gaming2g NickBlasta posted:Sounds more like an aging 7 install more than anything, likely formatting and reinstalling Windows would largely fix your performance issues. I already have an SSD, would buying a new one fix things? WattsvilleBlues posted:Are you the goon who wanted to die because of the grief your build was giving you? That sounds about right.
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Dec 10, 2019 01:23
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Mu Zeta posted:Not even an HDMI cable? You could borrow one from your TV. Huh, so, I connected it via HDMI, and it worked great all day, but after bringing the computer back from sleep, it refused to acknowledge that the monitor even existed. Until I unplugged and re-plugged the hdmi from the video card, then it worked again. It's kinda weirding me out. My video card and monitor clearly hate each other.
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Dec 10, 2019 01:37
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Lurdiak posted:I recently had a lot of trouble with Arkham Knight, some awful load times on Resident Evil 2 and Dragon Age Inquisition, and the worst experience so far has been the admittedly horribly optimized Star Wars Jedi: The Fallen Order. I think something else is going on here besides just your specs. Jedi Order looks like it should be playable at lower settings with a 960 + 3350P (a step down from your 4590), as should Resident Evil 2. Are you getting anywhere close to that performance, and have you updated your graphics drivers recently? For Dragon Age Inquisition, using the Mantle API apparently dramatically increases load times. Installing to an SSD improves load times a bit in quite a few games, and they're pretty cheap right now. You can get a good 1TB drive for as low as $120. I think somebody already suggested this, but upgrading to Windows 10 could potentially help smooth performance as well, depending on what the issue is. Installing or upgrading is free - just make your own install media using an 8GB+ flash drive and use your Windows 7 key to activate Windows 10. If you're doing a fresh install (recommended), you'll need to match the version of Windows 7 key - Pro or Home.
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Dec 10, 2019 02:54
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Lurdiak posted:I recently had a lot of trouble with Arkham Knight, some awful load times on Resident Evil 2 and Dragon Age Inquisition, and the worst experience so far has been the admittedly horribly optimized Star Wars Jedi: The Fallen Order. Your problem is almost certainly the video card. The 2 GBs of VRAM is not enough to store textures in modern games. As you can see in Stickman's linked video, VRAM usage is between 2.2- 3.5 GBs even on medium texture detail. When you don't have enough VRAM, the CPU must swap textures in and out. Even if they are loaded into RAM, there is going to be terrible delays and will cause frame time delivery issues that manifest themselves in the form of "hanging" while the video card scrambles to grab the textures and render the next frame. Try turning the textures in Fallen Order to the lowest possible setting and check VRAM utilization to confirm this is the issue. If it is the issue, Canada Computers has an AMD RX 570 4GB on sale for 169 CDN if you want a cheap upgrade to throw in the system to play those titles you have now. Your computer is on its last legs though. Fallen Order is slamming 4 cores constantly in that video.
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Dec 10, 2019 03:37
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I thought it might be vram at first, but in their original post their specs list 4GB so I’m still not sure.
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Dec 10, 2019 03:42
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Stickman posted:I thought it might be vram at first, but in their original post their specs list 4GB so I’m still not sure. poo poo I didn't see his first post last page. He linked a 2GB model.
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Dec 10, 2019 03:49
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I shucked one of those western digital easystore 8tb drives- ends up I got a WD “white label” which is supposed to be a WD red drive with an updated SATA connection that makes it not compatible with some older psus (there is a clever workaround with putting tape over one of the SATA connector pins). My question is if I am doing a new build with a Seasonic focus sgx 650w psu, would I be affected and have to perform this simple mod or would it work out of the box?
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Dec 10, 2019 04:30
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I apologize if this is rude or against the rules, but could anyone spoon feed me a ~$700 build that my dumb rear end can snap together and that can play stuff like FF14/Path of Exile/Monster Hunter at hopefully 1080p/60? No real interest in 4k 144fps AAA gaming or anything like that. Never built a pc before and reading this thread mostly confuses me, but i'd REALLY rather not buy a prebuild for money reasons.
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Dec 10, 2019 05:12
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Stupid question from someone who hasn’t built a PC since Windows XP. You guys don’t recommend a DVD drive, but I’m confused as to how you install Windows 10 without a DVD. Does it come as a digital download that you install to a flash drive and install from there? Sorry for the dumb question, help appreciated.
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Dec 10, 2019 05:26
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LtCol J. Krusinski posted:Stupid question from someone who hasn’t built a PC since Windows XP. Exactly this yes, Microsoft provides a tool for you. Just bring your own thumb drive. 16gb should be enough, that's what I always use. You can even buy a key later and just install without one. Ceramics posted:I apologize if this is rude or against the rules, but could anyone spoon feed me a ~$700 build that my dumb rear end can snap together and that can play stuff like FF14/Path of Exile/Monster Hunter at hopefully 1080p/60? No real interest in 4k 144fps AAA gaming or anything like that. Do you live near a microcenter, that makes this experiment way easier
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Dec 10, 2019 05:30
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Create a bootable USB to install Windows 10 from here: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
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Dec 10, 2019 05:30
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Tatsuta Age posted:Do you live near a microcenter, that makes this experiment way easier There is one like 40 miles away from me so yeah, that trip can be made.
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Dec 10, 2019 05:35
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Ceramics posted:There is one like 40 miles away from me so yeah, that trip can be made. I'd plan a trip there and on getting something like the ~$700 build from MikeC's post. Some of the parts on that list are out-of-stock online, but it gives you a good idea of what to shoot for. If you wanna use the savings that you're getting from getting a CPU + Mobo combo from Microcenter towards a small upgrade, you could get an NVMe drive instead of a SATA III one. Edit: Here's an equivalent list that's all in-stock online and can be found at Microcenter (or my local one at least): PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($119.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($64.98 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Blue 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: PowerColor Radeon RX 580 8 GB Video Card ($179.99 @ Amazon) Case: Cooler Master MasterBox NR600 (w/o ODD) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.98 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair CX (2017) 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($69.98 @ Amazon) Total: $707.90 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-10 00:05 EST-0500 Demostrs fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Dec 10, 2019 |
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Dec 10, 2019 05:48
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So I pretty much have my build completed, just waiting for my PS to come in, and I’m starting to rethink my current living space which is leading me to move to microATX to fit the tower neatly under my desk. What is a good mATX board for the Ryzen 5 3600x? I’m not looking to OC or anything fancy, just running it with a 2060 Super, 16GB DDR4-3200, 1TB nVME. Are there any out there that come compatible for the current AMD gen?
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Dec 10, 2019 06:01
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Whoreson Welles posted:So I pretty much have my build completed, just waiting for my PS to come in, and I’m starting to rethink my current living space which is leading me to move to microATX to fit the tower neatly under my desk. Sadly, if you're in the States, the best mATX AMD board (the MSI Mortar B450) isn't carried at any retailers. If you can't/won't go as small as mITX, then your only two options are the MSI B450M Gaming Plus (only two RAM slots, might need a BIOS flash with its button, and no mouse support in BIOS) or the kinda expensive for what it is ASRock X570M Pro4.
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Dec 10, 2019 06:32
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lollybo posted:I shucked one of those western digital easystore 8tb drives- ends up I got a WD “white label” which is supposed to be a WD red drive with an updated SATA connection that makes it not compatible with some older psus (there is a clever workaround with putting tape over one of the SATA connector pins). My question is if I am doing a new build with a Seasonic focus sgx 650w psu, would I be affected and have to perform this simple mod or would it work out of the box? Yes, there’s a good chance you’ll need to do the minor mod for it to spin up. The least destructive method is to use small piece of kapton tape to cover the third sata power pin. Since the pin isn’t used in normal operation and I didn’t plan on putting mine back in the enclosure, I just bent it back using an xacto knife and that’s worked fine since.
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Dec 10, 2019 07:33
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Demostrs posted:Sadly, if you're in the States, the best mATX AMD board (the MSI Mortar B450) isn't carried at any retailers. If you can't/won't go as small as mITX, then your only two options are the MSI B450M Gaming Plus (only two RAM slots, might need a BIOS flash with its button, and no mouse support in BIOS) or the kinda expensive for what it is ASRock X570M Pro4. Huh, that’s strange that it isn’t sold in the US. I haven’t thought about mITX but have no qualms against it. Would it bottleneck all of the other components I already have?
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Dec 10, 2019 15:15
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The Barrowch 90 (FBFTWT90-V1) looks awesome!  https://www.formulamod.com/barrowch-fbftwt90-v1-open-style-90-degrees-rotation-fittings-p1799035.html It's meant to be a 360 degree rotary part, but I don't see how it could be? Also, it mixes aluminium and brass which is fine when they show which bits are what, which they don't.
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Dec 10, 2019 15:41
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Whoreson Welles posted:Huh, that’s strange that it isn’t sold in the US. I haven’t thought about mITX but have no qualms against it. Would it bottleneck all of the other components I already have? The bottleneck is usually the video card because they can be too long for some itx cases.
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Dec 10, 2019 15:52
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Whoreson Welles posted:Huh, that’s strange that it isn’t sold in the US. I haven’t thought about mITX but have no qualms against it. Would it bottleneck all of the other components I already have? Naw, ITX boards aren't less capable than their full-size cousins, they are mainly just less expandable since you physically can't fit as much stuff on them. Only one PCIe slot, usually only one M.2 slot (although a few boards have two), fewer SATA ports, etc etc. For most people this isn't a problem at all since PCIe expansion cards barely exist anymore, SLI has become basically unsupported and you can get way more storage than most people ever need on only 1-2 drives. ITX power delivery (or more specifically, VRM overheating) can become a problem though if you're overclocking a high-end CPU, but for an R5 it should be no problem at all, and especially not if you're gonna run it at stock or near-stock.
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Dec 10, 2019 15:52
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Interesting. Alright cool I’ll check out some mITX and mATX builds and come up with something. PC building sure has come a long way.
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Dec 10, 2019 15:53
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My GPU driver keeps crashing, even though I've reinstalled the driver's lots of times. I'm taking it the hardware is dying. What's a rough equivalent of an AMD Radeon HD 7950 3GB Boost these days?
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Dec 10, 2019 20:07
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WattsvilleBlues posted:My GPU driver keeps crashing, even though I've reinstalled the driver's lots of times. I'm taking it the hardware is dying. Let me put it this way instead: what kind of monitor resolution and refresh rate are you using, and do you have any plans to upgrade that in the foreseeable future? TheFluff fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Dec 10, 2019 |
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Dec 10, 2019 20:29
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Do you think I will be able to run this setup using a 120W Pico PSU? PC Part Picker estimates 156W so pretty iffy but I don't know how conservative the estimate is. I already have all this stuff so I can try it out but no need to bother if everyone says it's hopeless. How much power can I save if I undervolt stuff? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hRXKXv CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-C14 CPU Cooler Motherboard: ASRock Z97M-ITX/AC Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR3-2133 Memory Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive Pico PSU Link 
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Dec 10, 2019 20:44
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taqueso posted:Do you think I will be able to run this setup using a 120W Pico PSU? PC Part Picker estimates 156W so pretty iffy but I don't know how conservative the estimate is. I already have all this stuff so I can try it out but no need to bother if everyone says it's hopeless. How much power can I save if I undervolt stuff? I wouldn't say it's a great idea though.
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Dec 10, 2019 20:57
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TheFluff posted:If I take that to mean something that costs about the same as what a 7950 did new in 2012, a Radeon RX 5700XT or Geforce RTX 2060 Super (assuming the 7950 MSRP of $449 I googled is accurate), but unless you're doing something weird both of those two are probably significant overkill for you. If you're asking for something that performs the same then I think you're asking the wrong question. Sorry I should have been clearer. Is there anything around £100 that would give roughly the same performance as a 7950 Boost? My monitor is a 60Hz 1920x1200 Dell panel. I'll not be upgrading anything else for the foreseeable future.
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Dec 10, 2019 22:03
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TheFluff posted:It might work, but you may run into reset issues if/when sudden changes in CPU load lead to overcurrent protection and/or undervoltage protection tripping on some out-of-spec condition that might only have lasted for a few milliseconds. If you want to try it, I think a better idea than undervolting is downclocking (by limiting the max CPU multiplier) or just setting the power limit to maybe 45W or so in the BIOS, if it lets you do that. Kinda figured that'd be the best anyone could tell me, barring someone randomly having used the same equipment. I have one of those wifi outlets that can measure power use, I'll try with a normal PSU and see how much power it uses under full load. Anyone know what some good options are for DC powered ATX supplies?
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Dec 10, 2019 22:15
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Just curious, (I am in no way knowledgeable enough to comment on going out of spec on PSUs) but what are you doing with this thing?
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Dec 10, 2019 22:23
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Putting it in a car. It'd be nice to not have to go DC-AC-DC if I don't have to. There is also an 180W PicoPSU but I don't really need it to be super duper small.
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Dec 10, 2019 22:25
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Sorry I should have been clearer. Is there anything around £100 that would give roughly the same performance as a 7950 Boost? My monitor is a 60Hz 1920x1200 Dell panel. I'll not be upgrading anything else for the foreseeable future. Pick up an RX570 ? Good performance boost and should be around $115 USD.
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Dec 10, 2019 23:17
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Sorry I should have been clearer. Is there anything around £100 that would give roughly the same performance as a 7950 Boost? My monitor is a 60Hz 1920x1200 Dell panel. I'll not be upgrading anything else for the foreseeable future. Right. I'd try to look for a good deal on a Radeon RX 570, you might be able to get one for £125 or maybe even less if you shop around, and it'd be a decent upgrade too. GTX 1050Ti's can also be found for just over £100 but it's not really a better card than the 570. Other than that you could also look around for used GTX 960's, 970's or 1060's. It's actually sort of hard to find a new card that performs like the 7950 - even entry level gaming cards from several years ago (eg GTX 1050Ti) are significantly more powerful, and below that in the product stack you start running into really lovely cards that are bad value for your money. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Dec 10, 2019 |
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Dec 10, 2019 23:29
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If the i5-4690K (88W Haswell) doesn't work out, I could try i5-5675C (65W Broadwell). It explicitly has a TDP control function down to 27W. Interesting there are two broadwell models supported by Z97 chipset w/ 1150 socket or get a better PSU for $50 taqueso fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Dec 11, 2019 |
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Dec 10, 2019 23:53
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I purchased a Ryzen 7 2700X 8 core as the CPU for my system. Now I’m in motherboard selection mode and can’t figure which is best. My needs: WiFi USB 3.1 At least 2 x M.2 slots ATX Good quality board that’s built to last
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Dec 11, 2019 00:15
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Researching parts is a ton easier this day and age. I don't remember if there just wasn't as much information, as much choice, or I wasn't paying enough attention. Thanks for the starting point MikeC! How does this build look? Any obvious flaws or issues people can see?quote:PCPartPicker Part List
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Dec 11, 2019 00:52
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LtCol J. Krusinski posted:I purchased a Ryzen 7 2700X 8 core as the CPU for my system. MSI B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC Has two m2 slots and wifi/bluetooth built in.
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Dec 11, 2019 00:53
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TheFluff posted:Right. I'd try to look for a good deal on a Radeon RX 570, you might be able to get one for £125 or maybe even less if you shop around, and it'd be a decent upgrade too. GTX 1050Ti's can also be found for just over £100 but it's not really a better card than the 570. Other than that you could also look around for used GTX 960's, 970's or 1060's. It's actually sort of hard to find a new card that performs like the 7950 - even entry level gaming cards from several years ago (eg GTX 1050Ti) are significantly more powerful, and below that in the product stack you start running into really lovely cards that are bad value for your money. ASUS AMD Radeon RX 580 OC 4 GB GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 Graphics Card, DUAL-RX580-O4G https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B071NS93PH/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_3ad8DbW6V48ZT How about that? £125. WattsvilleBlues fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Dec 11, 2019 |
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Dec 11, 2019 00:55
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Are there NVMe drives out there that support IEEE-1667 / hardware-enabled BitLocker? I have an 850 Evo in my Z170 motherboard so I want to be absolutely sure it will be worth the money.
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Dec 11, 2019 01:14
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Stickman posted:The 860 Evo is a good drive, but in the US it's usually 40% more expensive than other drives that are also good. It looks like a decent choice for NZ, though, because the other usual suspects (the Crucial MX500 and the Adata su800) only save a few dollars. The WD Blue is also a decent SSD (at least the "3D NAND" version is), but any of those other options would be slightly better and slightly cheaper. I have a related question: I just built a PC and I'm carrying over an older 250gb (it's a Sandisk from 3 years ago, don't remember the model, it's not great). I've noticed that the old SSD performs roughly as well as my 7200rpm WD Blue bulk storage HDD for gaming. (I didn't test this rigorously but I moved some games back and forth and the loading times are comparable). I'm running out of space after migrating my steam library and buying a bunch of games during the winter sales though and I need more storage. I was planning on getting a fast 500gb NVME m.2 specifically for games I play a lot - was looking at the WD black. I probably reboot my PC once every 2 months so I don't care about boot times at all. But now I'm curious as to whether I'll even notice the difference. If I could shave at least 20-30% off my load times that'd be a worthwhile investment, but now I'm not sure if that's reasonable to expect. Should I just buy a cheaper SATA or lower end NVME m.2? Even going to a Crucial P1 would save me a few bucks.
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Dec 11, 2019 03:46
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I have this card sitting next to me right now that I bought for $300 from Amazon (RX 5700 XFX Ultra DD): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XVMXBQW Given that I have a 1080p monitor (3 years old now?) with no plans on upgrading it, am I better off just saving $70 and buying this instead? (EVGA 1660 Super) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZHZL2JB It was recommended to me multiple times but I felt like the extra $70 was worth the additional performance/"future proofing".. I realize this is probably just subjective, but would I not notice the difference with my monitor? (I'm also debating whether I buy a GPU at all since I don't really play games that much anyway..)
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Dec 11, 2019 05:52
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For $70 I'd keep the 5700. You'll see some newer games like Red Dead 2 start to struggle with the 1660 super with all the bells and whistles on.
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Dec 11, 2019 05:54
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