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Krakkles posted:I have to admit, I laughed when the grinder came out. And then they decide that they should just replace the entire housing because the threads are all hosed up anyway.
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Dec 4, 2019 17:17
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In his defense, it sounds like someone previously hosed it up putting it on, by not living the threads and/or cross-threading it. Definitely amazingly frustrating. I admire his calm. I would have been cursing a blue streak and possibly breathing fire. I definitely would have thrown something across the shop.
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Dec 4, 2019 17:23
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Oh yeah, it was FUBAR. He had the luxury of a lot of room for the grinder. Cripes I've blown through tons of dremel disks for that type of stuff.
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Dec 5, 2019 18:34
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Oh yeah, it was FUBAR. He had the luxury of a lot of room for the grinder. Cripes I've blown through tons of dremel disks for that type of stuff. That gets expensive real quick, I know.
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Dec 5, 2019 23:50
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Coolant, oil, and air filter change in this turd before it finally gets kicked down the road to a family member. Oil filter and cabin air filter. 290k. Possibly originally. Classic neglect.    Sunroof seal. This was miserable to get the old one off. To add insult to injury, the wind noise is still about 40% present. But 60% reduced so now it only sounds like there is a window slightly open. 
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Dec 6, 2019 19:17
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Good news: bad ABS speed sensor was easily spotted (broken wire) and even on the first wheel I pulled. Pads and rotors in, old ABS sensor drilled out, hole tapped, new sensor installed. Man it feels good when the dummy lights go out.
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Dec 7, 2019 23:04
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Already drilled out the bolt so I'll just re-tap and spin in a new one.
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I swapped out an open differential for an Eaton G80 locking unit in my wife's car today and, in the process, bathed myself with gear oils and rusts. Entirely worth it, though, because not only do I think these 220,000 mile old lubricants have lived their life but now she can do the snow-dance properly.    In the coming weekend I hope to add about 2.25" of lift while I'm in there replacing 220k old shocks & struts. I also might spray some ridiculous fluorescent green, grey, white gradient stripes along with painting the wheels, too, but who knows. I'm thinking the stock blue would lend itself well to a similar color scheme that the MN Timberwolves use. Edit; Eaton G80 info: https://www.240turbo.com/volvorearends.html stone soup fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Dec 8, 2019 |
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Dec 8, 2019 00:50
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I jury-rigged a BG 323 wiper armature/transmission into my Capri. The motor attachment fit with little effort, getting it all in place was a lot more effort, and I've almost got it working with the Capri wiper arms. loving cheese grade nuts in the kit... They're almost identical from a distance, but you need clever usage of some grinders to get them lined up perfectly with the original holes  Now I just need to turn this https://i.imgur.com/5XBPBgx.gifv Into being able to see when it rains
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Dec 8, 2019 01:29
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Put a new exhaust on my mates 120 series turbo diesel Prado yesterday. 2.75” mandrel bent straight through from the turbo to the bumper. We had the option to fit a resonator pipe in but decided the straight pipe with cat would be the go, dunno whether the drone will get annoying or not. drat little 3.0TD sounds like a dump truck now!
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Dec 8, 2019 01:46
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Wally Joyner posted:I swapped out an open differential for an Eaton G80 locking unit in my wife's car today and, in the process, bathed myself with gear oils and rusts. Entirely worth it, though, because not only do I think these 220,000 mile old lubricants have lived their life but now she can do the snow-dance properly. That's the same as Chevy uses in half ton pickups. Put a z71 sticker on it.
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Dec 8, 2019 16:33
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StormDrain posted:Put a z71 sticker on it.
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Dec 8, 2019 16:43
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Changed the front brakes and swapped in platinum spark plugs. I love RockAuto prices. I found plain copper ones in there and this:  Can that be jbweld sealed back to 100% usable or is it compromised forever and need replacement?
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Dec 8, 2019 21:24
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I'd say you're in for a new coil soon, if not a full set. If it's a beater, say gently caress it until it starts misfiring but otherwise I'd replace it on a daily.
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Dec 8, 2019 21:42
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Bye 3rd row  
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Dec 9, 2019 18:25
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Changed the oil on the Subaru Outback. Yay, lovely oil change places:  I guess it's not *that* much smaller. At least I wasn't horribly overdue:  I'm at 183899 now. Assuming they specced 3,000 miles (179097), I'm at 4802. Old oil filter had what looked like "179097" on it, though the second 9 was fudged. Jake said that he'd had the oil changed just before we picked it up. This jibes with the 179152 that was on the clock when I remembered to take a pic after we bought it, when we'd already driven to the store for supplies, and were almost out of Mesa. I tried to change the transmission filter as well, but unlike STR's 2.5L, the 3.0L hides the filter up inside the inner fender on the left in front of the wheel. I used ramps for the oil change, and just wasn't up to pulling a wheel after a full weekend of carpentry and the oil change. I'll do it later. Hell, according the service manual, the ATF filter is "maintenance free"! I did capture a sample for Blackstone to analyze. I did not get around to changing the oil in the Crown Vic, which arguably needs it more.
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Dec 10, 2019 00:58
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That's the most common Valvoline oil filter, though that's meant for the 2.5. I just checked Wix's website, the dimensions of the old one definitely look like the one for the 2.5 (which is used only by Subaru and Saabaru, at least using the Wix p/n), the one you put on is used on a lot of cars. Quite a bit bigger and a lower bypass valve setting. That other wouldn't have done any harm on the 3.0, so long as it got changed before it could clog (since it'll go into bypass a lot easier), but that's annoying having them use the wrong one. The gasket dimensions are identical, so it would seal fine either way. I can't find specs for the Valvoline one, but the Wix for the 2.5: Height: 2.577 Outer Diameter Top: 2.685 Bypass Valve: 23 PSI The 3.0: Height: 3.238 Outer Diameter Top: 3.252 Bypass Valve: 8-11 PSI I think I'm gonna go with the 3.0 filter next time I change my oil - for the tiny bump in capacity and the big bump in filtration media, this car has seen some poo poo and I'm pretty sure actual sand drained out with my oil. So long as the difference in bypass valve spec doesn't make a (bad) difference anyway. Also as long as it doesn't hang too much lower. I don't have the splash guards anymore (they were beat to hell, and just dripping oil everywhere instead of letting it drip from the 2 real leaks), so it's just hanging there. So weird that they hid the transmission filter like that on yours - I guess it just has an adapter where the filter would normally mount? Or is it capped off somehow? The owner's manual says it's a lifetime filter, but if it was "lifetime", why would they make it so easy to change?
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Dec 10, 2019 20:53
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STR posted:That's the most common Valvoline oil filter, though that's meant for the 2.5. Mine still has the splash guards, in decent condition, and once I figured out how it was supposed to work, the hatch for the oil filter slid out nicely. I'm incensed that they used those damnable plastic-screw-in-an-expanding-plug abominations (seriously, the jackass that designed those, along with the accountant and subsequent engineers who decided they were appropriate for everything, can rot in hell), but they at least came out without much struggle in my case. I couldn't see too well, but I think there's an adapter at the transmission to the cooler lines. Should be the same 4EAT as every other Subaru of the era. What I really need to find is the dipstick for the front diff. The manual is amazingly unhelpful for the general location. There's a line drawing of the dipstick and a bunch of hoses, without any context. Ditto for the ATF dipstick. I found one of them, yellow, over by the brake master cylinder, but I'll be damned if I know which one it is. edit: according to the Owner's Manual, the yellow one on the (US) driver's side should be ATF. The yellow one on the passenger side should be front diff. Idiots. At least make it orange or something. I did not see a yellow dipstick over there - guess I need to look again. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Dec 10, 2019 |
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Dec 10, 2019 23:06
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According to our slack server, the one for the diff is WAYYYYYYYYYY down there. Also, one is ATF, one is GL5. You can taste the difference if you can't smell it. 
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Dec 11, 2019 00:48
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You'll want the stiffer bypass valve, Subaru's run pretty high oil pressure (20+ psi idle, cold start is well over 100psi, and any revs and you're instantly over 30psi on mine at least). With a weaker bypass the filter could just be bypassing all the time and not actually using any of that extra filler medium.
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Dec 11, 2019 09:11
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STR posted:According to our slack server, the one for the diff is WAYYYYYYYYYY down there. I did a Google Image search for the diff dipstick. I think I can find it now. Probably just hidden under the maze of hoses and wires, and I was looking too low for it. It's much higher up than I expected. Bajaha posted:You'll want the stiffer bypass valve, Subaru's run pretty high oil pressure (20+ psi idle, cold start is well over 100psi, and any revs and you're instantly over 30psi on mine at least). With a weaker bypass the filter could just be bypassing all the time and not actually using any of that extra filler medium. I wonder why the lower bypass specified for the 3.0, then? Maybe due to the oil cooler and associated piping?
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Dec 11, 2019 19:19
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The bypass filter couldn't give a poo poo about the system pressure; it only cares about the pressure differential between the two sides of the filter. If there's 32 PSI coming in, and 30 PSI going out to the engine, it sees a 2 PSI difference. Now if you have a cheap cellulose filter with little surface area and a high bypass... I'll take the more expensive synthetic filter with more filter area and a lower bypass. Why? The cellulose filter (which is what most cheap filters are made of) will be more likely to break down and let poo poo through under that 20+ PSI differential. Any healthy engine should be running 30+ PSI above idle, for the oiling system pressure. If you're seeing a 30 PSI differential across the filter, something is seriously hosed. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Dec 11, 2019 |
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Dec 11, 2019 21:20
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 that's sleep deprived logic for you, carry on. No idea why the 2.5 is specced with such a beefier bypass spring, I know some generations of the turbo 2.5 had oil coolers so I don't think it would be that. I just faintly remember reading somewhere online that it was important that the bypass pressure be 20+ but I can't remember the reason or if it was a reliable source 
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Dec 12, 2019 02:25
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 Custom setup OS Giken for the S2000
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Dec 12, 2019 20:41
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Well I just had my first accident. Ran over a tree branch that fell on the country road in a storm. Managed to rip off the side skirt on my girlfriends Citroën and got stuck under the rear left wheel. Car lost traction and wanted to go sideways, but I was slow enough to stop it before the ditch on the side of the road. The undercarriage below the side skirt got bruised a bit, but it looks like it won't need any body rework, just some undercarriage coating and a few new clips for the side skirt that managed to stay in one piece. No pictures because it's a lovely, rainy, stormy night but I suspect there's gonna be quite a few when I tackle the repair next week.
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Dec 12, 2019 23:35
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bye seat #4 
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Dec 14, 2019 07:50
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 In it went. First impression is that the car is much smoother in transition on / off throttle mid corner and it no longer does the weird skip-hop-slide in tighter corners. Can't wait to see how it feels at speed.
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Dec 14, 2019 23:22
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Dang, what type of floor coating is that?
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Dec 15, 2019 12:35
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Found a bag of LEDs and added two for when my plates arrive. Dunno if this does anything but makes sense on to me.  Took apart the dash to get my HUD and dashcam wired, Turns out I only really needed to pop the pillar plastic off and fish the wires through there. The PO's passenger gouged the plastic repeatedly and since it was all apart I started filling in their damage. Pictured here plugged in because I needed to drive around with defrost. 
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Dec 15, 2019 15:07
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Colostomy Bag posted:Dang, what type of floor coating is that? Some kind of epoxy chip seal that has been on it for about twenty years. Downsides to it are that it is deathly slippery if there is any liquid on it and you can't find stuff you've dropped. Upsides are that it is actually really durable and I haven't managed to damage it with brake fluid, brake cleaner, torch, weld spatter, etc.
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Dec 15, 2019 19:56
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The new stuff has optional grit you can add for traction that will sand your skin off if you trip anyways.
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Dec 15, 2019 20:09
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Rhyno posted:The new stuff has optional grit you can add for traction that will sand your skin off if you trip anyways. New age silica technology! it's literally just sand
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Dec 15, 2019 20:18
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Rhyno posted:The new stuff has optional grit you can add for traction that will sand your skin off if you trip anyways. Is that in the stuff that you can lay down yourself? I'm in the middle of buying a house so now you've got me thinking about doing it.
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Dec 15, 2019 20:54
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I've seen it as an option from the companies that specialize in installation, I dunno if you can do it yourself.
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Dec 15, 2019 21:05
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I did the armorpoxy spgx in our new garage. I did use their antiskid additive, and it added just enough texture to make the floor not too slippery when it's wet. It has peeled in a couple small spots in the first year, but with the minimal prep I did I'm pretty happy with it. I skipped the flakes, which helps finding dropped nuts and bolts significantly easier. Eventually I'll end up grinding the spots that flaked and doing another once over, which at $250/gallon is not gonna be cheap. But I can probably get away with only doing the two higher traffic spots, and not touch the third stall. It'll also give me the chance to clean up the expansion cuts and fill them with a flex poly filler.
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Dec 15, 2019 21:32
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Changed the oil in the Crown Victoria. Only 11 months and 6008 miles on the oil... whoops. Need to pay better attention to that. I did capture a sample to send to Blackstone to see how it's doing. Got a sample from the Subaru when I changed it last weekend, too.
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Dec 17, 2019 00:41
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Synthetic? Probably fine at that mileage and time unless you do all short trips. Curious what Blackstone will say.
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Dec 17, 2019 04:37
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I have now had two places slightly overfill my crankcase on an oil change. Don't think it's anything critical, but what part of "between the hash marks" don't y'all understand? e: about this much 
Panty Saluter fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Dec 17, 2019 |
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Dec 17, 2019 04:40
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Suburban Dad posted:Synthetic? Probably fine at that mileage and time unless you do all short trips. Curious what Blackstone will say. Synthetic now, since it was on sale at O'Reilly's, but "Mobil Special" before that, from the oil change place, plus a quart or two of Castrol, as I recall, due to small leaks and/or burning. I doubt I hurt it any, but all the same, I'm not doing it or myself any favors by ignoring oil changes. I like the car and would rather keep it healthy.
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Dec 17, 2019 20:29
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I've found 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 at Walmart tend to be the same price as store brand conventional at most stores. Though the oil change bundles will sometimes offset that when you factor in the filter.
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Dec 18, 2019 20:50
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STR posted:I've found 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 at Walmart tend to be the same price as store brand conventional at most stores. Though the oil change bundles will sometimes offset that when you factor in the filter. Meijer (does that exist outside of the flyovers?) tends to have pretty killer rebates on M1. I think I got $24 back from a gallon and filter deal. I need to do an oil change.
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Dec 18, 2019 20:57
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