|
opengl128 posted:Did the RPMs actually jump, or was it just the tach? that's what surprised me because she said she was in 6th gear and actually drives very well despite not being a big car enthusiast apparently it actually DID rev up because she said it was the loudest the car has ever gotten and idk what else is gonna let the car do that while in gear going at normal speed i've never seen her harshly redline when shifting she's generally a very conservative driver. i'll see if i can go look at it in person later tonight
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2019 22:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 20:49 |
|
|
Thief posted:that's what surprised me because she said she was in 6th gear and actually drives very well despite not being a big car enthusiast You sure she didn’t bump the clutch in? Quick revs shouldn’t really be possible in 6th.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2019 22:51
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:You sure she didn’t bump the clutch in? Quick revs shouldn’t really be possible in 6th. Shouldn't matter. No reason for it to turn off just because it hit the rev limiter. In fact, that would be very broken behavior.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2019 22:54
|
|
|
update: she towed it to a local garage and they confirmed it was the timing chain. its at 80k miles so that seems unusual but oh well guess there's nothing we can really do about it other than a full engine swap? she says she can't sell the car until she pays off the loan or something and really doesn't want to buy a beater no matter how much i try to convince her  thanks for the replies yall
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2019 15:43
|
|
|
Thief posted:update: she towed it to a local garage and they confirmed it was the timing chain. its at 80k miles so that seems unusual but oh well Me thinks you are getting half the story. Should have a rev limiter. But shifting into a lower gear negates that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2019 15:57
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
money shift
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2019 16:16
|
|
|
Motronic posted:money shift 
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2019 16:50
|
|
|
MS3s don't have the greatest timing chain arrangement, so in my mind it's not impossible that somehow it snapped a guide, lost tension, and had happy fun valve piston meeting time.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2019 17:48
|
|
|
My 2001 5.3L 2WD Silverado may have cracked a head after 260k. I've lost an inch of coolant out of the tank in the last few weeks and have no external leaks. There's maybe a little more condensation under the oil cap than I'd expect, and the oil pressure is down slightly. I've always wanted to build a SBC, but how big of a PITA is doing an R/R on the motor on one of these? I've done motors on an outback with a 1-ton shop crane and it kinda sucked and I wished I had a 2-ton. I'd be working in a driveway FWIW.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2019 18:45
|
|
Boys who love boys
|
I think with 260k miles I already know why but... why not just replace the heads?
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2019 19:12
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I think with 260k miles I already know why but... why not just replace the heads? It sounds like a diesel when it's cold it's leaked enough oil from every seal that it's gummed over and stopped leaking... I guess I could probably put ebay heads on for $500 but I'd be waiting for the bottom end to go. I'd rather just spend $2500 now and put it out of mind / not get stranded towing my boat somewhere.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2019 19:37
|
|
|
You could get a lower milage 5.3 for less than 1000 if you can diy it. Could always just replace a head with a remanufactured one from rockauto for around $250.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2019 19:47
|
|
|
Yeah, that's the question: how big of a pain is pulling/installing the 5.3? If I can just pull the accessories to the side of the engine bay, the transmission comes off easily and the engine lifts right out and and the new engine drops in and hooks up without trouble (and this link kind of makes it sound this way) I might go the DIY route. If I have to buy $300+ worth of big hoist/stand/oddball tools and it's still a pain in the dick, or there a lot of gotchas and tricks you need to know (IE, it's a 30-hours-the-first-time-7-hrs-the-second-time job) I'm probably pay someone to make the problem go away.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2019 21:56
|
|
|
Honestly, that guide sounds like it's overcomplicating it. On an 01, you probably won't have to unplug individual items aside from removing the throttle cable. Just unplug the entire harness from the PCM (there's a retaining tab that folds out to help unplug it, it even forces the plug out a bit). Unbolt the AC compressor and set it to the side (don't leave it hanging by the hoses), unbolt the PS pump, start removing lines and hoses from the engine. I don't think there's much in the way of speciality tools you'll need aside from a GM fuel line tool and the typical wobble / U-joint adapters to get into tight spaces. Cordless impact will make life a lot easier (and you'll use it for way more poo poo than you ever imagined). Some people say it's easier to yank the intake manifold, but that's more if you want to disconnect it from the transmission. At 260k, may as well swap the trans too. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Dec 10, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2019 22:31
|
|
|
tactlessbastard posted:My wife's OEM battery on her 2014 Honda Odyssey crapped out last week. I got her a replacement battery, correct size and, etc and when I installed it, her battery terminals weren't making good contact with the cables, even when I had them tightened to maximum. As a result, she some time loses connection and it won't start. Is there something I can shim them with to get a good connection until I have time to replace the cables/clamps? Colostomy Bag posted:Dumb question, and don't be offended but something doesn't sound right here...are you sure you have the clamps all the down? Reason I ask is they are a taper fit. It was this, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2019 03:49
|
|
|
93 Capri problems The FSM often uses weird/inconsistent terminology, is poorly formatted, and is frustratingly vague  I need both of these parts, but have no idea what the "Fan Sending Unit" (aka "Temperature Switch", the manual calls it by both names depending on where you look) is called so I can order a new one. I also need the Temperature Sending Unit's name so I can order that too, and to know where it is on the engine, because the only diagram of it points at the thermostat housing and the instructions are only how to remove the fan switch, almost verbatim Here's what I've bought for the fan switch and all are way too small for the intended hole in the thermostat housing https://www.autozone.com/engine-man...rchText=SU405DG https://www.autozone.com/engine-management/temperature-switch/duralast-temperature-switch-tu89/19148_385179_0?&searchText=TU89 https://www.autozone.com/engine-management/temperature-switch/duralast-temperature-switch-tu75/184663_77401_0_2731_5673?&searchText=TU75 The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Dec 11, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2019 03:57
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:MS3s don't have the greatest timing chain arrangement, so in my mind it's not impossible that somehow it snapped a guide, lost tension, and had happy fun valve piston meeting time. I would consider a timing chain failure at 80k to be absolutely insane. Is this just a thing for that engine? Any chance there is value in bitching to Mazda USA?
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2019 04:05
|
|
|
tactlessbastard posted:It was this, thanks! Great! Thanks for the feedback. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 09:47 on Dec 11, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2019 09:45
|
|
|
The Door Frame posted:93 Capri problems Does this look better? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mercury,1993,capri,1.6l+l4,1196670,cooling+system,temperature+sender+/+sensor,4748 e: Scroll down to the ones with the actual harness connector.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2019 16:22
|
|
|
`Nemesis posted:I would consider a timing chain failure at 80k to be absolutely insane. Is this just a thing for that engine? That would definitely be on the way low mileage side of it. Could try bitching but since I'm expecting said MS3 is years out of warranty, doubt they'll give a gently caress. The only other thing I can think of is that the timing chain is a symptom and not the root cause. If you floor it in sixth at low RPM, you can cause engine-breaking detonation.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2019 16:51
|
|
|
Our new to the company work vehicle is a 2007 Dodge Caravan SE wheelchair van with a 3.3l V6 and 4-speed auto, 41,000 miles on the odometer. It was converted from new by BraunAbility to their Vision specs: lowered floor, kneeling rear suspension, power assisted ramp, and rear door poppers, for reference (suspension, ramp assist, and poppers disabled). Two questions: 1. Does anyone have experience with a van converted thusly? Is there anything I should know about possible electrical gremlins? All the disabled (ugh) features have been isolated from the rest of the van, but I don't know what else was done to it. 2. Is there anything I should keep any eye on with the engine and transmission? New fluids, not sure on filters (we'll get to that) So far (<200 miles) we have had the EGR valve replaced for a P0406 code: EGR circuit fault, sensor A, high voltage (I guess that sensor is integrated into the valve itself). The EGR valve was heavily coked, while the EGR tube (?) was relatively clean. Besides that the throttle body has been cleaned as it was coked up enough to stick at idle and I replaced the air filter which was heavily soiled. When I cleaned the throttle body I noticed the IAT sensor was brand new :/. There is a huge amount of rust on every bit of the engine, too. Two bolts broke just replacing the EGR valve. There is also a ticking noise at idle that sounds like piston slap which didn't go away after changing the valve. I suspect it was not driven often and spent a lot of time idling. Thoughts, comments?
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2019 22:55
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:Does this look better? I see one that looks identical, thank you!
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2019 23:41
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:That would definitely be on the way low mileage side of it. Could try bitching but since I'm expecting said MS3 is years out of warranty, doubt they'll give a gently caress. Yeah the money shift hypothesis seems much more likely. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2019 00:02
|
|
|
`Nemesis posted:Yeah the money shift hypothesis seems much more likely. Thanks. I'm gonna guess this happened when she was passing someone with the old 5-2(whoops) downshift.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2019 00:40
|
|
|
The Door Frame posted:I see one that looks identical, thank you! No problemo, it can get confusing. The one you showed I would hazard a guess for a reading to feed relays for the fans. The one with the spade connector is probably for the idiot light on the dash. The harness one is the actual ECT that talks to the PCM. Sometimes they combine them, sometimes they don't. The other one looked like some weird pressure switch that I won't speculate on. Did get a chuckle when the cross-reference showed the sensor is also used on Bimmers.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2019 02:55
|
|
|
madeintaipei posted:Our new to the company work vehicle is a 2007 Dodge Caravan SE wheelchair van with a 3.3l V6 and 4-speed auto, 41,000 miles on the odometer. It was converted from new by BraunAbility to their Vision specs: lowered floor, kneeling rear suspension, power assisted ramp, and rear door poppers, for reference (suspension, ramp assist, and poppers disabled). You really want to be sure that the transmission fluid was changed with the fluid specified in the manual. Generic fluid is bad for it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2019 03:06
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:No problemo, it can get confusing. The one you showed I would hazard a guess for a reading to feed relays for the fans. The one with the spade connector is probably for the idiot light on the dash. The harness one is the actual ECT that talks to the PCM. Sometimes they combine them, sometimes they don't. The other one looked like some weird pressure switch that I won't speculate on. Good to know that high precision German engineering is compatible with my lovely econobox 
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2019 01:21
|
|
|
Buying a new car in Canada. Let's say the listed price is $65,000 with 0% interest. The dealer price is $55,000. Can I haggle down towards the dealer price and still expect to keep the 0% financing rate? It's a 2019 base model Suburban that I expect they want to move sooner rather than later. There's not a huge market for them in our neck of the woods and the new model will be available Summer-ish. I'd have preferred an LT model but if I can get a good price for this LS then I can live without leather and fog lights.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2019 07:22
|
|
|
 That allen bolt under the oil pickup is rounded and megatorqued to oblivion. It's covered up by the pickup so I can't reach it with anything except a traditional L shaped allen key. How can I get it off? I'm thinking of chiseling the head off, removing the pickup and then using a bolt extractor thing, is there any better way?
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2019 11:59
|
|
|
Will thread locker sufficiently seal the threads on a grease fitting? I have a spot where there is a grease fitting that is pretty much inaccessible. What I'm hoping to do is put a 90 degree fitting on there so that its easy to grease. Problem is, depending on how the threads are clocked, if I tighten down the 90 fitting, it might not be pointed in the right direction, which would make the situation worse. I really hate 90 degree grease gun adaptors so I have zero intention of getting one until all other options have been exhausted.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2019 12:19
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:Will thread locker sufficiently seal the threads on a grease fitting? There's a whole mess of loctite products designed to seal threads from leaks, such as 542. I'd also try shimming with a washer or two, soft metal ones like copper, to try and get the alignment you need.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2019 12:34
|
|
|
2005 Cadillac Escalade / GMT800. 108k miles. Well maintained. I noticed some looseness in the front end the past few months. Felt like I needed to grease the joints. I never got around to doing that. Lately, when I back out of my driveway with the wheel at full lock to the right, when I shift to drive and straighten the wheel, the left front wheel feels like it kinda "flops" back into place. When I first felt it, I would have sworn it was low tire pressure, that's exactly what it feels like. But tire pressures are fine. It's cold and I'm lazy. Weak google search doesn't show a common problem, so what's the thoughts on what I'm looking at? Simple as tie rod ends, or something stupid like ball joints that require control arm replacement?
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2019 13:35
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
Grakkus posted:
Hammer (whether you feel comfortable hammering on an engine block is up to you) in a torx bit that’s just a bit larger than the proper hex for the socket head. If it’s one of the tiny torx bits for a multi bit screwdriver handle, use a socket extension and a 1/4” socket as a drift so the bit doesn’t twang off into the upside-down. (Ask me how I know). At least that’s what’s worked for me.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2019 14:28
|
|
|
Grakkus posted:
How much is a new oil pickup? If not bad, consider thoroughy covering the exposed block, there, and cutting the oil pickup bracket off in order to get a pair of Vise-Grips on the head. e: if you can get to the other bearing cap bolt: remove the bearing cap the pickup is mounted to, and try working on it from the bench.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2019 14:54
|
|
|
just another posted:Let's say the listed price is $65,000 with 0% interest. The dealer price is $55,000. Can I haggle down towards the dealer price and still expect to keep the 0% financing rate? Absolutely, though don't sign anything before you have, in writing, the interest rate and final price. Don't let them pull the four square poo poo on you. If you haven't dealt with a dealer before, don't be afraid to get up and leave. They'll frantically run to their finance manager and tell them you walked. They'll eventually call and let you know what they can do. I went from them refusing to even tell me the interest rate (they pulled the four square crap) with $3000 down to getting a zero down, leave with the keys today offer. Still passed because they still wouldn't tell me the APR or final price (I wasn't about to give them a penny after the way they treated me anyway), and they wanted way too much for a used Kia (2018 Soul with 50k, they were basically asking the sticker price for a brand new one). Go the last week of the month (preferably the last couple of days), they'll be a lot more desperate to hit their numbers for the month, unless you think they're gonna sell it before then. Also, there's a lot of people driving around in LS Suburbans, at least in my neck of the woods (though 1LT is a lot more common). They're pretty well equipped even in the base LS trim. e: vvvvvv that too! randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Dec 13, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2019 15:51
|
|
|
STR posted:Absolutely, though don't sign anything before you have, in writing, the interest rate and final price. Don't let them pull the four square poo poo on you. Also, they'll typically get a kickback from their financing, especially if it's GM financing, so they'll go lower on the car price knowing they're making money on you financing it. One of the weird times where paying cash doesn't save you money! At least around these parts (PA), there's been a credit for using GM financing, and you have to keep it active for six months. So, if it's GM credits vs the dealer dropping the price, be sure to read all the fine print.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2019 15:55
|
|
|
Hi hello, I think this is the right thread to ask in. 2007 Chevy Cobalt LT (uhh I have no idea what engine exactly but probably not the best one if there's options lol) 80,000 miles. I need new tires. I have Uniroyal Tiger Paws on there and they were terrible even when new. I live in Wisconsin, so I want an all-weather kind of thing because I'm not going to be assed to change tires. Plus I live in Milwaukee and don't drive that much, so it's not like I'll be offroading in snow or whatever. Also must be reasonably priced, preferably under $100/tire. If no specific tire recs, maybe just brands to go with or stay away from? I know nothing! thank you!
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2019 19:00
|
|
|
I don't have an answer for you, but I do have a thread! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3887596&pagenumber=8&perpage=40
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2019 20:05
|
|
|
Crusty Nutsack posted:Hi hello, I think this is the right thread to ask in. 2007 Chevy Cobalt LT (uhh I have no idea what engine exactly but probably not the best one if there's options lol) 80,000 miles. Go on places like tirerack.com and discounttire.com. Plug in your tire size and then narrow it down by price. Look at the reviews. Even if you don't buy from those places, the reviews are useful.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2019 20:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 19, 2024 20:49 |
|
|
I think you are going to get beat up a little bit on that post. We try to help, but here are the red flags: 1) First of all your location. Yeah, there is snow. Granted, not Madison...but still. 2) There is no replacement for winter tires. Given your budget probably a General Tire would suit you fine. 3) You mention you don't drive much. This could either be a good or a bad thing. A lot of us know how our car handles on M+S tires in the snow/ice but that is from trial and error and experience. If you can say "I'll take a bus" because weather is bad then great. A M+S tire might get you by. 4) And the salt of being too lazy thing quote was icing on the cake. And yeah, I'm sort of making GBS threads on you right now but I mentor tons of students on good practices. I and (we) just want you to be safe. And here's the kicker...tire choice keeps others safer as well. It is all a risk.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2019 20:26
|
|