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I already have a pretty nice computer but trying to figure out what is and isn't good for just general knowledge. I guess I shoulda worded myself better. What would someone broke build with like $300? Assuming they are bringing their own 1080p monitor 60hrz and KB/mouse. I guess like $300 to spend? With an eye for used stuff. Also I guess like the esporys stuff like Fortnite, League, and rocket league? E2M2 fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Dec 12, 2019 |
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Dec 12, 2019 22:55
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Stickman posted:What sort of games are you talking about when you say "light gaming", and what's the general ballpark you'd like to spend? The 3600+Tomahawk Max is a great value combo, but a 2600+ASRock B450 Pro4 is $105-115 cheaper. The ASRock B450 Pro4 is fine if you stick to lower-power processors like the 2600 and 3600. What do you thinking about 2600X and ASUS ROG Strix B450-F combo? Microcenter has a combo deal for both at $230. Seems like it's worth it to pay $20 extra for the better cooler on the 2600X compared to the 2600.
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Dec 12, 2019 22:57
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(Most) any compatible CPU and Mobo get a discount at Microcenter, they just advertise certain combos, unless those two are more than $20 off together. Generally I'd stick with the boards Stickman recommended, the Tomahawk is good and affordable, and the Pro4 is fine and cheap. If you're going to spend money on a better cooler I'd get a proper aftermarket one, it shouldn't be too hard to find recommendations if you look back through the thread a bit. Mind you, the stock cooler on the 2600 is perfectly serviceable. It's not as quiet as it could be and it'll leave a few hundred MHz on the table if you want to OC but for day-to-day use it's not going to cause issues.
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Dec 12, 2019 23:36
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Howard Phillips posted:What do you thinking about 2600X and ASUS ROG Strix B450-F combo? Microcenter has a combo deal for both at $230. The Strix-F really isn't appreciably better than the Pro4, and you can get the 2600X and Pro4 together for $190 at Microcenter. If you want to pay a little more for a motherboard, get the Tomahawk MAX. The 2600x is a decent choice at Microcenter because it's only $10 more than the 2600 and the auto-overclocking (precision boost overdrive) can give you a bit of a boost when you need it down the road.
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Dec 13, 2019 00:27
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E2M2 posted:I already have a pretty nice computer but trying to figure out what is and isn't good for just general knowledge. I guess I shoulda worded myself better. I'd buy something like this assuming you're firm on $300 and don't have any parts yourself: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GeForce-GTX-1650-4GT/dp/B07ZTXYVMN/ https://www.newegg.com/dell-optiplex-9010-business-desktops-workstations/p/1VK-0001-30171 And immediately start saving ~40-50 for a 500GB SSD. If you have 4GB of DDR3 RAM laying around or can acquire it super cheaply I would swap them round: https://www.newegg.com/evga-geforce-gtx-1650-04g-p4-1057-kr/p/N82E16814487449 $140 https://www.newegg.com/dell-optiplex-7010-business-desktops-amp-workstations/p/1VK-0001-18Z93 $140 Because while I trust the 9010 SFF PSU personally, I'd prefer the larger one all around for expansion and heat. Your honest best bet is SA Mart, goons let things go much cheaper for quick easy guaranteed sale. bus hustler fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Dec 13, 2019 |
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Dec 13, 2019 01:24
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How do you do, fellow kids? In 2020, I'll be switching back from Mac to PC for the first time since Apple went Intel. I've been saving pennies for most of a decade and intend to build an enthusiast class HEDT. Country: US Budget: $4,500 Workloads:
Must-haves:
Here's my preliminary parts list. I've been out of the PC game for so long, I hardly know which brands to rely on. I'd love your feedback on part quality, value for performance, and any other insights you might have. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Threadripper 3960X 3.8 GHz 24-Core Processor ($1499.99 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Enermax LIQTECH TR4 II 360 102.17 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($159.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Gigabyte TRX40 AORUS PRO WIFI ATX sTRX4 Motherboard ($399.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 128 GB (8 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($614.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 970 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($299.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB Black Video Card ($1099.99 @ B&H) Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic ATX Full Tower Case ($138.50 @ Adorama) Power Supply: Corsair HX Platinum 1000 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($194.99 @ Amazon) Custom: ASRock Thunderbolt 3 AIC R2.0 ($69.99 @ Newegg) Total: $4478.42
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Dec 13, 2019 01:55
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A revision to the build guide is coming in the next couple of days, mainly to rewrite for clarity in some sections and to emphasis things like RAM, storage, and video card selection are placeholders to indicate what you can get around each price point and final picks are subject to local prices and availability. I am not really aware of any other new products/prices to deviate much from what we have there now. One thing I will be changing is the swapping out of the RX 580 for a 1650 Super or 5500XT in the budget 1080p build section. The RX 5500XT benchmarks are out and the performance at the price point is disappointing and it is basically the AMD version of 1650 Super so I don't see any reason to pick one or another. Is anyone experiencing driver issues on the Nvidia side I should be aware of? I am also considering recommending a drop to 3000 MHz RAM to maybe save 20-25 bucks and then leaving faster memory as an option in the notes sections. I sat down and reviewed a lot of benchmarks and it feels like DDR4 3000 doesn't lose enough performance and saving that money drops the build back down to just a touch over 400 dollars. Any other suggested changes?
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Dec 13, 2019 01:56
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isnoop posted:[*]Using Chrome - I hear Chrome needs 32GB+ to run smoothly ... Was the person who told you this trying to sell you RAM?
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Dec 13, 2019 02:43
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Bryter posted:... Was the person who told you this trying to sell you RAM?
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Dec 13, 2019 02:51
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MikeC posted:One thing I will be changing is the swapping out of the RX 580 for a 1650 Super or 5500XT in the budget 1080p build section. The RX 5500XT benchmarks are out and the performance at the price point is disappointing and it is basically the AMD version of 1650 Super so I don't see any reason to pick one or another. Is anyone experiencing driver issues on the Nvidia side I should be aware of? I’m confused by this. The 5500XT price I heard was more than disappointment, unless the msrp on the 5500XT isn’t $230 (that is: 1660S price for 1650S performance)? From my understanding there’s no reason to buy a 5500XT unless a wizard ritually geas’ed you against buying nvidia, and even then no reason to upgrade unless you’re still rocking like a 560? 
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Dec 13, 2019 03:04
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Schadenboner posted:I’m confused by this. The 5500XT price I heard was more than disappointment, unless the msrp on the 5500XT isn’t $230 (that is: 1660S price for 1650S performance)? From my understanding there’s no reason to buy a 5500XT unless a wizard ritually geas’ed you against buying nvidia, and even then no reason to upgrade unless you’re still rocking like a 560? MSRP is supposed to be 160 US on the 4GB model. Is it a lot more than that?
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Dec 13, 2019 03:09
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MikeC posted:MSRP is supposed to be 160 US on the 4GB model. Is it a lot more than that? Ah, the 8GB is MSRP’ed at 260 (it wasn’t a founders edition or a Sapphire either, that version was like 300). That’s a hell of an expensive +4GB! At 160 the 4GB one is probably at least slightly competitive?
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Dec 13, 2019 03:14
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isnoop posted:How do you do, fellow kids? In 2020, I'll be switching back from Mac to PC for the first time since Apple went Intel. I've been saving pennies for most of a decade and intend to build an enthusiast class HEDT. Avoid the Enermax LiqTech TR4 II cooler, it has serious corrosion problems in the long term (18 mo+). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HC1kzO_gIp4
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Dec 13, 2019 03:16
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Does anyone know what the timeline is for Samsung’s new PCIe 4.0 NVMe drives are? I’m targeting late spring / early summer for my new build and I’m waiting to finalize the selection of boot/program drive to whatever the fastest NVMe drive is.
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Dec 13, 2019 03:28
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Schadenboner posted:Ah, the 8GB is MSRP’ed at 260 (it wasn’t a founders edition or a Sapphire either, that version was like 300). That’s a hell of an expensive +4GB! At 160 the 4GB one is probably at least slightly competitive? The 4GB model at 160, if it can be found at that price point, is fine imo. The RX 580 isn't dropping any in price for whatever reason and the 5500XT/1650 Super are more energy-efficient and don't run quite as hot to pump out the same frames afaik.
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Dec 13, 2019 03:36
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Schadenboner posted:Ah, the 8GB is MSRP’ed at 260 (it wasn’t a founders edition or a Sapphire either, that version was like 300). That’s a hell of an expensive +4GB! At 160 the 4GB one is probably at least slightly competitive? MSRP on the 8gb is $200. Still not worth it though. Iirc Zen+ has trouble doing anything over 2933 anyways, so 3000 is just fine. Odds are anyone building today will be on a DDR5 platform when they next do so.
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Dec 13, 2019 03:49
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What does everybody think of this? https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/xM7Ycf/great-amd-gamingstreaming-build
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Dec 13, 2019 03:50
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isnoop posted:How do you do, fellow kids? In 2020, I'll be switching back from Mac to PC for the first time since Apple went Intel. I've been saving pennies for most of a decade and intend to build an enthusiast class HEDT. Get the Threadripper Wraith cooler. I built out a very similar machine to yours (same CPU and mobo) with a X72 360MM AIO and regret it. AIO doesn't work any better than the Wraith cooler. And don't get the Asrock Thunderbolt AIC - get the Gigabyte Titan Ridge expansion card. It's built on a newer Thunderbolt chipset that works better (Asrock is built around the older Alpine Ridge).
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Dec 13, 2019 03:54
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PcPP's parametric filters often wind up making suboptimal choices since components of markedly higher quality can often be had for just a few dollars more. In specific I'd go with a Tomahawk Max over any X570, a Sabrent Rocket or Inland Premium SSD over the one there, and spend a couple extra dollars for a PSU with a 10 year warranty like the RMx or SeaSonic Focus Plus. I even saw a 12 year, platinum drive for $115 last week. GamersNexus has looked at most of the 5700XT models. They all perform about the same but some are hotter/louder than others, so I'd check over there to make sure whichever model you buy isn't one of the bad ones first.
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Dec 13, 2019 04:09
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ItBreathes posted:PcPP's parametric filters often wind up making suboptimal choices since components of markedly higher quality can often be had for just a few dollars more. In specific I'd go with a Tomahawk Max over any X570, a Sabrent Rocket or Inland Premium SSD over the one there, and spend a couple extra dollars for a PSU with a 10 year warranty like the RMx or SeaSonic Focus Plus. I even saw a 12 year, platinum drive for $115 last week. Do the Sabrent Rocket and Inland Premium have m2 instead of Sata? Also how much more expensive would it be to get double that RAM? 16 GB sounds like it's not very much for the current year.
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Dec 13, 2019 04:25
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orange juche posted:Avoid the Enermax LiqTech TR4 II cooler, it has serious corrosion problems in the long term (18 mo+). shrike82 posted:Get the Threadripper Wraith cooler. I built out a very similar machine to yours (same CPU and mobo) with a X72 360MM AIO and regret it. AIO doesn't work any better than the Wraith cooler.
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Dec 13, 2019 04:29
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I am going to go with the Lian Li TU 150x ITX case as it is made of aluminum and really sexy. It has 2 USB type A connectors and 1 USB type C connector. I have realized my mobo (ASUS ROG Strix b450i strix ITX board) only has 2 USB type A headers on the motherboard. That means I can connect the 2 USB type A headers but my USB type C header would be unusable. Now, this mobo also is one of the few ITX boards with two M2 slots (though using the second slot may slow down the PCIE slot). I am wondering if there is any way I can salvage the USB type C port to make it useable? A converter for one header and splitter for second maybe?
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Dec 13, 2019 04:36
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Its Coke posted:Do the Sabrent Rocket and Inland Premium have m2 instead of Sata? Also how much more expensive would it be to get double that RAM? 16 GB sounds like it's not very much for the current year. Yes they do. Moreover, the Silicon Power drive just isn't a very good one. There are other, better SATA options if you're dead set on that for some reason, but two fewer cables is very nice. Anything above 16gb is still "you'd know if you needed it", but roughly twice as much.
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Dec 13, 2019 04:54
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lollybo posted:I am going to go with the Lian Li TU 150x ITX case as it is made of aluminum and really sexy. It has 2 USB type A connectors and 1 USB type C connector. I have realized my mobo (ASUS ROG Strix b450i strix ITX board) only has 2 USB type A headers on the motherboard. That means I can connect the 2 USB type A headers but my USB type C header would be unusable. Now, this mobo also is one of the few ITX boards with two M2 slots (though using the second slot may slow down the PCIE slot). I am wondering if there is any way I can salvage the USB type C port to make it useable? A converter for one header and splitter for second maybe? Apparently Deklock has an M.2 -> USB Type-E header converter, but I have no idea how to purchase things from them :/ Stickman fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Dec 13, 2019 |
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Dec 13, 2019 05:15
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Hey guys time to upgrade from my old i5-4690K. I'm going to keep my old gtx970 for the time being until another card comes along like the 970 as far as value goes. I put this together to hopefully be a quiet gaming and VR machine. Please tell me I'm not making any boneheaded moves like completely wasting money somewhere or cheeping out on something where a little more could go a lot further? Basically a quick sanity check. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($309.99 @ Walmart) CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($48.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Best Buy) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($169.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($169.99 @ Best Buy) Video Card: PNY GeForce GTX 970 4 GB XLR8 Video Card Case: Fractal Design Define C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Best Buy) Total: $1128.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-12 23:26 EST-0500
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Dec 13, 2019 05:34
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maniacripper posted:Hey guys time to upgrade from my old i5-4690K. I'm going to keep my old gtx970 for the time being until another card comes along like the 970 as far as value goes. Get a Silicon Power A80 or HP ex920 instead of the 970 EVO. The performance difference is minuscule and won't be noticeable for gaming. In fact, you could save a bit more by just getting a SATA drive like the Adata su800 - there's not really a significant difference between nvme and sata for gaming. If you want to save a bit of money of the motherboard, the B450 Pro Carbon AC is more than adequate for a 3700x. It'll have a keyboard-only bios, and there's a chance you'll need to update the bios with a usb stick and the flash bios button before installing the 3700x. 32GB of RAM is overkill right now, but RAM is cheap enough that it's really a matter of preference. Plus I think Alyx is supposed to require 12GB or something crazy like that. You absolutely don't need an 850W PSU, and they generally run at about the same noise level per W supplied regardless of maximum capacity. A Corsair 650W would save you $40, and even a 750W would save you $25. If you have a blower 970, your gpu is going to be the noisiest thing in your case by a mile (and also the weakest link for VR). You might want to consider moving up to a nice dual or triple fan 2060+ or 5700+.
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Dec 13, 2019 06:50
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Stickman posted:Apparently Deklock has an M.2 -> USB Type-E header converter, but I have no idea how to purchase things from them :/ I am going to get this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WG8ZJ41/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to convert the USB 3.1 header to USB 3.2 gen 2. And I am going to get this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOI3VC8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to convert the USB 3.1 cable from the case to use the remaining USB 2.0 header on the mobo. Products seemed to get good reviews so hoping this works out
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Dec 13, 2019 15:24
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Is it worth paying 3x extra for the better cooler (Prism vs Spire) and clock on the 2700X versus the 2700? Some reviews from when the Zen+ line was released (e.g. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/ryzen-7-2700-2700x-review,5606.html) suggest it might be worth it so I'm wondering if the 2700/X might be an exception to the usual "Don't pay for the X" recommendation?Motherboard would be an MSI TomaMAX (pc part picker throws an error because the 2700X isn't on the QVL but the 2700X PRO is, I'm suspecting it'll be fine?), GPU would be a 1660S, 16GB of 3200/16 RAM to start. Primary use is desktop virtualization for home lab poo poo, secondary will be 1080 bideo shames (mostly  city builders although I'd like to give Cyberpunk a try when it launches).I guess the alternative to a 2700/X would be the 3600 but for virtualization it seems like MOAR CORES is a better option than fewer faster ones (and the 3600's aren't even that much faster)? Schadenboner fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Dec 13, 2019 |
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Dec 13, 2019 15:54
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Hi Thread, I was posting about a new computer I am going to get for general gaming use around a month ago and kinda went back to the drawing board based on feedback I got here. I toned down what I am going to get and will be looking into getting a better monitor that has a higher refresh rate and all that jazz in the new year. For now I desperately need to replace my hardware due to age/dying integrated fans. With some help from a friend I have come up with this so far: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Walmart) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.95 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($74.98 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($93.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($111.98 @ SuperBiiz) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($109.99 @ Amazon) Total: $755.86 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-13 10:12 EST-0500 I already have a 1tb M.2 SSD, that listed power supply due to a friend accidentally buying two, and the listed ram. I am looking for recommendations on a GPU to fit into this build, and any general feedback on the build itself if something stands out. Oh, and if it is recommended to buy better/more case fans. edit: Also, a friend who recently built a new PC bought two Powercolor "Red Devil" Rx5700 AMD video cards that both went bad within a week, so I would like to make sure I avoid that. AAAAA! Real Muenster fucked around with this message at 16:23 on Dec 13, 2019 |
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Dec 13, 2019 16:15
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Might be the wrong thread, but is there a place where I can get a Win 10 license key, cheap? I've bought from a couple of shady websites in the past, where they kept on having to send me keys as they kept coming up invalid, so I'd like to avoid that level of jank.
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Dec 13, 2019 16:21
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null_pointer posted:Might be the wrong thread, but is there a place where I can get a Win 10 license key, cheap? I've bought from a couple of shady websites in the past, where they kept on having to send me keys as they kept coming up invalid, so I'd like to avoid that level of jank. A+ recommended: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3898368&pagenumber=1&perpage=40 I've personally used him and steered goons to him, it's just slightly weird getting over throwing PayPal money down a hole and waiting for the key. Send the PayPal money with a detailed note, make a post in the thread, and it's ezpz.
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Dec 13, 2019 16:29
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null_pointer posted:Might be the wrong thread, but is there a place where I can get a Win 10 license key, cheap? I've bought from a couple of shady websites in the past, where they kept on having to send me keys as they kept coming up invalid, so I'd like to avoid that level of jank. You can buy a Windows 7 Pro key or a Windows 10 Pro key directly in SA-Mart from a goon. Also if you have ANY license of windows 7 like from an old dell or something Win10 will take that key. I've had mixed success with eBay - the keys that work for 72 hours have worked forever, but i've had some that don't work within 24 hours or on receipt, so they're definitely shady at best. I sent a friend a phone pic of the Win7Pro sticker on a Dell optiplex 980 from 2010 the other day and it activated instantly win10pro.
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Dec 13, 2019 16:30
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ItBreathes posted:Yes they do. Moreover, the Silicon Power drive just isn't a very good one. There are other, better SATA options if you're dead set on that for some reason, but two fewer cables is very nice. Thanks. I think I'd like to get m2 if possible. ItBreathes posted:Anything above 16gb is still "you'd know if you needed it", but roughly twice as much. Are you sure about that? 16 GB is how much I have on my PC from 2013, and I tend to have a LOT of programs open at once even when I'm playing games Its Coke fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Dec 13, 2019 |
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Dec 13, 2019 18:22
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facialimpediment posted:A+ recommended: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3898368&pagenumber=1&perpage=40 This turned out to be an awesome experience. Got the keys I needed probably within 10 minutes, and at a great price. Thanks to the goons who recommended this!
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Dec 13, 2019 18:35
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Are you running out of memory now? I mean, buy 32gb if you really want to, ram is as cheap as ever now, but you won't see any performance uplift unless you have a rediculous number of other things open.
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Dec 13, 2019 18:39
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Its Coke posted:Thanks. I think I'd like to get m2 if possible. Yeah 16gb is the default recommendation, going to 32gb is still overkill if the machine is for gaming primarily. Think of it this way, the extra $100-120 you would spend on more ram would make a HUGE difference if you put it against the next step up for video card instead, or even if you throw it in a box labeled "big rear end cool monitor for later."
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Dec 13, 2019 18:49
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Are the 3.5" Seagate Firecudas safe enough to use? I like the idea of a hybrid HDD with a babby SSD cache on-board but I'm concerned because I don't hear a lot about them?
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Dec 13, 2019 19:06
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You don't hear about them because the idea never really went anywhere. The performance uplift has nothing on a proper SSD and it's cheaper/easier to make normal HDDs.
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Dec 13, 2019 19:12
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Schadenboner posted:Are the 3.5" Seagate Firecudas safe enough to use? I like the idea of a hybrid HDD with a babby SSD cache on-board but I'm concerned because I don't hear a lot about them? I'd stay clear of Seagate for any critical computing you do. I've had two Seagate drives (one internal and one external) fail on me before. Still, their SSHD price is uneatable, so threw one in my PS4. Bottom line: know the risk. For your main PC OS boot up hard drive I would go with Samsung. Secondary drives or console, Seagate is fine.
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Dec 13, 2019 19:17
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How loud is the Ryzen 5 2600x fan compared to the 2600? I have a Define R5 case which has decent sound blocking.
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Dec 13, 2019 19:19
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