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randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Crusty Nutsack posted:

Hi hello, I think this is the right thread to ask in. 2007 Chevy Cobalt LT (uhh I have no idea what engine exactly but probably not the best one if there's options lol) 80,000 miles.

I need new tires. I have Uniroyal Tiger Paws on there and they were terrible even when new. I live in Wisconsin, so I want an all-weather kind of thing because I'm not going to be assed to change tires. Plus I live in Milwaukee and don't drive that much, so it's not like I'll be offroading in snow or whatever. Also must be reasonably priced, preferably under $100/tire. If no specific tire recs, maybe just brands to go with or stay away from? I know nothing! thank you!

FWIW, I had the Saturn version of your car for... a lot longer than I'd like to admit (the Ion is the same basic car, mechanically the only real difference was the clutch).

If you have Discount Tire in your area.. the worst tires I ever had on it (actually, some of the worst tires I've ever had on any car) were the super cheap Barum Brillantis 2s. The best tires I had on it were Road Hugger GTP, which are private label tires from Discount Tire that are made by Kumho. They're still affordable, they were really quiet, handled better than any other tire I put on that car (admittedly, I basically tried all of the cheap ones you could get at Discount, over ~200k miles and 2 different Ions), and wore really well.

There's two different LTs - the 1LT and 2LT. The 1LT has 15" wheels/tires and uses hubcaps. The 2LT has much nicer 16" alloy wheels, but the tires cost a lot more. If your car is the 1LT and has the 15" wheels with hubcaps, that puts those tires at $72 at my local Discount Tire. If you have the 16" alloys, they'll run an eye-watering $102, in which case you should probably go for something else (that's before mounting, balancing, etc). Just try to stay above the $70/ea mark (and avoid the Tiger Paws).

e: and you have the 2.2 engine. Only the SS got anything different.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Dec 13, 2019

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just another
Oct 16, 2009

these dead towns that make the maps wrong now

Thanks!

Crusty Nutsack
Apr 21, 2005

SUCK LASER, COPPERS


wesleywillis posted:

Go on places like tirerack.com and discounttire.com.

Plug in your tire size and then narrow it down by price. Look at the reviews.

Even if you don't buy from those places, the reviews are useful.

thanks both!

STR posted:

FWIW, I had the Saturn version of your car for... a lot longer than I'd like to admit (the Ion is the same basic car, mechanically the only real difference was the clutch).

If you have Discount Tire in your area.. the worst tires I ever had on it (actually, some of the worst tires I've ever had on any car) were the super cheap Barum Brillantis 2s. The best tires I had on it were Road Hugger GTP, which are private label tires from Discount Tire that are made by Kumho. They're still affordable, they were really quiet, handled better than any other tire I put on that car (admittedly, I basically tried all of the cheap ones you could get at Discount, over ~200k miles and 2 different Ions), and wore really well.

There's two different LTs - the 1LT and 2LT. The 1LT has 15" wheels/tires and uses hubcaps. The 2LT has much nicer 16" alloy wheels, but the tires cost a lot more. If your car is the 1LT and has the 15" wheels with hubcaps, that puts those tires at $72 at my local Discount Tire. If you have the 16" alloys, they'll run an eye-watering $102, in which case you should probably go for something else (that's before mounting, balancing, etc). Just try to stay above the $70/ea mark (and avoid the Tiger Paws).

e: and you have the 2.2 engine. Only the SS got anything different.

thank you for this! I'll look into those from Discount Tire. I'm sure I just have the standard 15" ones since I bought it new off the lot. and thanks for the engine info because I'm not sure where my user manual is...

Colostomy Bag posted:

I think you are going to get beat up a little bit on that post. We try to help, but here are the red flags:

No one else gave me poo poo. You assumed a lot of BS, like that I have't lived here and driven on non-snow tires my entire life. I don't drive much because I work from home, so yes, I do have the luxury of saying "eh the roads suck, not leaving the house." I'm getting new tires because I'm back to driving my car since my boyfriend just died and I can't drive his much newer, better car anymore. So I'm having to do the things I've been putting off on the car that usually just sat in the garage, like tires, and oil change and alignment. But really, your making GBS threads wasn't nearly as bad as the way my life has poo poo on me recently, so thanks, mentor.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Crusty Nutsack posted:


No one else gave me poo poo. You assumed a lot of BS, like that I have't lived here and driven on non-snow tires my entire life. I don't drive much because I work from home, so yes, I do have the luxury of saying "eh the roads suck, not leaving the house." I'm getting new tires because I'm back to driving my car since my boyfriend just died and I can't drive his much newer, better car anymore. So I'm having to do the things I've been putting off on the car that usually just sat in the garage, like tires, and oil change and alignment. But really, your making GBS threads wasn't nearly as bad as the way my life has poo poo on me recently, so thanks, mentor.

Was just trying to keep you safe, nothing more, nothing less. Sorry you took offense.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Colostomy Bag posted:

Was just trying to keep you safe, nothing more, nothing less. Sorry you took offense.
Well, you gave offense, so it's not really surprising (s)he took it. That was a pretty lovely post and a fake apology, dude.

ssb
Feb 16, 2006

WOULD YOU ACCOMPANY ME ON A BRISK WALK? I WOULD LIKE TO SPEAK WITH YOU!!


Beach Bum posted:

Brake fluid should be changed yearly. If you haven't flushed your brake system in awhile (2+ years), give it a go, I bet you'll be surprised at how much better the system works with fresh fluid.

Is this a consensus? I've never heard this before. I've only ever changed brake fluid when called for by the service schedule for the car, or if outside that, when there is a reason to. That seems very often for brake fluid outside of a frequent track usage setting to me. I'm anything but an expert though.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

shortspecialbus posted:

Is this a consensus? I've never heard this before. I've only ever changed brake fluid when called for by the service schedule for the car, or if outside that, when there is a reason to. That seems very often for brake fluid outside of a frequent track usage setting to me. I'm anything but an expert though.

Not quite. My Honda calls for changing it every two years I’m pretty sure. I’d say yearly is aggressive for a rule of thumb, but I wouldn’t hesitate to follow what your car’s manufacturer recommends (or more frequently if you prefer).

ssb
Feb 16, 2006

WOULD YOU ACCOMPANY ME ON A BRISK WALK? I WOULD LIKE TO SPEAK WITH YOU!!


nitsuga posted:

Not quite. My Honda calls for changing it every two years I’m pretty sure. I’d say yearly is aggressive for a rule of thumb, but I wouldn’t hesitate to follow what your car’s manufacturer recommends (or more frequently if you prefer).

I definitely follow the manufacturer interval for everything on our cars, plus other stuff as needed for whatever reason. I was just curious if there was a good reason to do brake fluid in particular more often. It wasn't something I've heard before.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Brake fluid you can, to an extent, fudge around a bit based on how you're using the vehicle. If you're getting the brakes toasty hot on the regular (i.e. high performance driving), or you live in a particularly humid area, it won't last as long.

`Nemesis
Dec 30, 2000

railroad graffiti

Crusty Nutsack posted:

Hi hello, I think this is the right thread to ask in. 2007 Chevy Cobalt LT (uhh I have no idea what engine exactly but probably not the best one if there's options lol) 80,000 miles.

I need new tires. I have Uniroyal Tiger Paws on there and they were terrible even when new. I live in Wisconsin, so I want an all-weather kind of thing because I'm not going to be assed to change tires. Plus I live in Milwaukee and don't drive that much, so it's not like I'll be offroading in snow or whatever. Also must be reasonably priced, preferably under $100/tire. If no specific tire recs, maybe just brands to go with or stay away from? I know nothing! thank you!

Hello fellow Milwaukee goon, are you street parking or do you have a spot in a lot?

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010

shortspecialbus posted:

Is this a consensus? I've never heard this before. I've only ever changed brake fluid when called for by the service schedule for the car, or if outside that, when there is a reason to. That seems very often for brake fluid outside of a frequent track usage setting to me. I'm anything but an expert though.

I should probably amend this.

Perhaps a year is too frequent; after some research most manufacturers have a two or three year interval for a full flush. However, because I am a car nerd and autocrosser, every time I change pads, I bleed 4-8oz from each caliper being serviced, because I'm particularly anal about having excellent brakes. 4oz for a four wheel job, 8oz for two; once you pop the seal on a pint of brake fluid you might as well use the whole can, because the stuff is hygroscopic and loses effectiveness and lowered boiling temperature the wetter it gets.

Folks should at the very least bleed enough to flush the caliper when servicing brakes and replenish the reservoir as needed.

As for high performance driving like autocross and track days, I flush the entire system before my club's annual autocross National Tour event, and will generally bleed the calipers every few events thereafter. I hear some of the real moto track day guys will do a complete flush before every track day, but these are also the folks running brake pads that don't even start working right until they hit 400°F, and brake fluid with a dry boiling point of at least 600°F.

Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Dec 14, 2019

Crusty Nutsack
Apr 21, 2005

SUCK LASER, COPPERS


`Nemesis posted:

Hello fellow Milwaukee goon, are you street parking or do you have a spot in a lot?

hello MKEan! I park in an underground garage.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

2015 Chevy Cruze, 1.4 turbo, 80k miles

Friend's car. She brought it to me for spark plugs (turns out they're supposed to be done every 60k, they've never been touched). She claims it's idling rough once warm. She also said her boyfriend noticed the coolant was low, so he added water to it. :sigh: (he's supposedly a diesel mechanic, he should know better... but he's also been changing her oil with stuff from work, which I assume is way too thick for the poor turbo on this thing - I did the last oil change with the correct oil and filter).

She's had it since new and pretty much just changes the oil, claims it's never overheated. The coolant was definitely low (the surge tank was almost completely empty), it took a few cups to bring it up to the cold full mark (haven't run it to circulate yet though). Didn't notice any smoke or steam from the exhaust when I pulled it into the garage a little while ago, though I'm waiting for the engine to be stone cold before I touch the plugs.

Are these particularly prone to head gasket issues? I didn't see or smell coolant anywhere, though the engine bay is pretty dirty (not from leaks, more of a "nobody has ever touched anything except for the oil filler" dirty). It's a pressurized surge tank setup, so no overflow for coolant to evaporate from.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cu4KGEDq8s8

Might be hosed.

zaepg
Dec 25, 2008

by sebmojo

Deteriorata posted:



Should be the fuse box under the dash, near the steering wheel.

Thanks. Very simple to get under there and locate it. Turned out to be that fuse had blown, so now I know the problem and the fix.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)


Zoiks. Hopefully it's not, she doesn't exactly have a whole lot of money. It's not running hot, and the fans seem to be running normally (i.e. they come on with the AC). Admittedly I haven't ridden in it in quite awhile; I'll take it for a drive once I get the plugs in and coolant topped off.

The CEL isn't on, though I haven't tried pulling codes yet. I assume if it's as bad as the one in that SMA video, it'll at least have pending misfire codes. I'm heading out there now, I'll make sure none of the plugs look like they've been steam cleaned.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Found the coolant leak. Looks like the small hose from the thermostat housing to the surge tank is leaking at the quick connect. Not sure if it's the housing/T or the hose that would need to be replaced. But someone's monkeyed with it at some point - there's a paint mark on it that doesn't line up anymore. I might pull it apart once it cools off and see if there's an o-ring in there.



Plugs were definitely way overdue. I don't know how well it ran on the originals, aside from when I pulled it into the garage, but I know it starts a lot easier with the new plugs. Drove it around for about 10 minutes, hammered on it a bit, it seems like it runs fine. Valvetrain sounds pretty tappy once it's warm, but I don't know if that's normal for these or not - the only time I've driven a Cruze before was in 2012, and it was a by-the-hour rental that had been beat on mercilessly.

e: it did have a pending P0300. I cleared it, it didn't come back in the time I drove it. I'll pull codes on it again for her in a week or two.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Dec 14, 2019

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

zaepg posted:

Thanks. Very simple to get under there and locate it. Turned out to be that fuse had blown, so now I know the problem and the fix.
Fuses are supposed to be a warning of trouble elsewhere, though.

If it blows again, you'll have to figure out what's blowing it. Power sockets are notorious for shorting out.

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


Recently picked up my other car, Toyota Estima with a 1MZFE

I already had it throwing a CEL when I parked it months ago. I was going to replace the VVT oil filter thing but it now has a new problem.

RPM is all over the place at idle, remains below 1.5k though with no CEL on (normally takes like 10 min of driving for it to kick on) and even when it did before, the idle was high but stable. As the RPM jumps about there's a judder too.


I don't really know what a misfire sounds like but could this be one?

My current plan, as well as replacing that VVT oil filter thingy, is to clean the MAF and throw a set of plugs in it.

Is this a bad idea or would you try something else first?

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack
crossposting from the detailing thread since the question might be more appropriate as a general body repair question

OMGVBFLOL posted:

havent washed my car aside from rain in about a year, havent waxed it in two, before that i was pretty good about keeping up with it. but you know, new cars accumulate scratches and curb rash and a dent from a stray bullet and they just become normal rear end cars and you lose the drive to keep em shiny. but i'm forced by circumstance to move back to suburbia where people give a poo poo what your car looks like so i'm contemplating doing a thorough touch-up and detail. is there a recommended brand of touch-up paint? recommended method? some are small enough i could probably get away with just touching em up with a simple all-in-one but a few are deffo going to need some sanding and spraypaint at least. most of the scratches and rash are on the plastic bumper cover so rust is no concern.

also the aforementioned bullet dent will need to get repaired. i've just had it covered with a piece of electrical tape for years the car's black and it wasn't rusting under there so my attitude was gently caress it for the time being). should I try pulling it at all? just fill it with bondo? or epoxy in a screen and then bondo over that? the dent's about an inch wide, half an inch deep, and is right on a crease in the sheet metal, on the unibody, above one of the doors

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:
could you get a photo of it?

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

OMGVBFLOL posted:

crossposting from the detailing thread since the question might be more appropriate as a general body repair question

Give your neighbors the finger and leave your car as it is.

Fix your car up if you want to, but don't do it just to try to impress others.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:
I think I can understand why someone might want to fix the bullet hole in their car

The Door Frame
Dec 5, 2011

I don't know man everytime I go to the gym here there are like two huge dudes with raging high and tights snorting Nitro-tech off of each other's rock hard abs.

taqueso posted:

I think I can understand why someone might want to fix the bullet hole in their car

Depends on the car

Cactus Ghost
Dec 20, 2003

you can actually inflate your scrote pretty safely with sterile saline, syringes, needles, and aseptic technique. its a niche kink iirc

the saline just slowly gets absorbed into your blood but in the meantime you got a big round smooth distended nutsack
it's a prius, so while i agree in general with the sentiment of not doing things to impress others, i already know im not going to impress anyone. this is just damage control, figurative and literal

e: i'll get a pic when i get home from work

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


simplefish posted:

Recently picked up my other car, Toyota Estima with a 1MZFE

I already had it throwing a CEL when I parked it months ago. I was going to replace the VVT oil filter thing but it now has a new problem.

RPM is all over the place at idle, remains below 1.5k though with no CEL on (normally takes like 10 min of driving for it to kick on) and even when it did before, the idle was high but stable. As the RPM jumps about there's a judder too.


I don't really know what a misfire sounds like but could this be one?

My current plan, as well as replacing that VVT oil filter thingy, is to clean the MAF and throw a set of plugs in it.

Is this a bad idea or would you try something else first?

Having had a look round online I decided to start with trying the easier possible fixes - cleaning the MAF sensor

However, it says not to use on Karman Vortex MAFs (and adds that they are on "most Lexuses"). As the 1MZ-FE was used in a lot of Lexuses, is there any way I can tell if the MAF is the Karman Vortex type?

Chunjee
Oct 27, 2004

simplefish posted:

Is this a bad idea or would you try something else first?

Incomplete list I'm working on. These are things to check not replace.

- Fuel pressure, Not enough to meet demand of injectors
- Dirty Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF)
- Inaccurate Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF)
- Inaccurate Intake Air Temperature Sensor Testing (IAT)
- Vacuum leak
- Clogged or dirty Air Filter
- Inaccurate Oxygen Sensor readings (O2)
- Power-train Control Module (PCM)
- Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
- Air injection system
- Exhaust leak or restriction
- Exhaust Gas Recirculation open (EGR)
- Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (MAP)
- Misfire
- Injectors and seals
- Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP)
- Idle Air Control Valve (IAC)
- Air intake turbulence

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

If it was a stuck EGR valve, it would be struggling to idle, possibly stalling.

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


It is struggling to idle and nearly stalling (when first started, not when warm)

I picked up some throttle body cleaner in case it was the idle valve thing in the throttle body, that's ok to use on an EGR valve right?

Edit:
And is there any way to tell whether it's the Idle Air Control or the EGR valve?
This is on my list of things to try to fix it:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=drFPRjPcFSE

simplefish fucked around with this message at 08:14 on Dec 15, 2019

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

The Door Frame posted:

Depends on the car

64 Impala
84 Bronco
82 Trans Am
83 DeLorean
32 Ford
98 Honda Civic
98 Crown Vic
63 Continental

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:
put bullet holes in all of them imo

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
Well firstly it's a bullet DENT, not a bullet hole. A DENT is a badge of honor for your car; proving it can handle some diversity of terrain.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Astonishing Wang posted:

Well firstly it's a bullet DENT, not a bullet hole. A DENT is a badge of honor for your car; proving it can handle some diversity of terrain.

Or a Camry.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:
2004 Volvo XC90 2.5T AWD, ~165k miles

Clunking from front end, related to wheel speed. Seems like its coming from driver's side. If I turn left or go straight, the clunk feels like its in the wheels. If I turn right, the sound changes a bit and it feels like its coming from closer to the center of the vehicle.

Some speeds are worse than others, doesn't seem to be related to bumps in the road.

What should I look at to diagnose further?

taqueso fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Dec 15, 2019

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

That only counts if its on the corner of the rear bumper.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Does that make my Outback a Camry? (it also bent the bumper enough to double as a leaf catcher :kimchi:)



e: not from bullets tho.. I don't live in Houston.

Chunjee
Oct 27, 2004

taqueso posted:

2004 Volvo XC90 2.5T AWD, ~165k miles

Clunking from front end, related to wheel speed. Seems like its coming from driver's side. If I turn left or go straight, the clunk feels like its in the wheels. If I turn right, the sound changes a bit and it feels like its coming from closer to the center of the vehicle.

Wild guess would be wheel bearings. Worth doing a visual inspection on the front axils.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

STR posted:

Does that make my Outback a Camry? (it also bent the bumper enough to double as a leaf catcher :kimchi:)



e: not from bullets tho.. I don't live in Houston.

No, needs to be more on the side. Extra points for the leaf.

JacquelineDempsey
Aug 6, 2008

Women's Circuit Bender Union Local 34



This an extremely stupid question, no doubt.

My husband's 1990 Chevy G30 van got broken into. He just went out to fetch the Xmas tree he had in the back, and was surprised to find both front doors unlocked. Thieves stole his two tool boxes (but funny enough left the bomb-rear end Pioneer stereo). We currently live in a, shall we say, rough neighborhood, so 1) we are crazy vigilant about making sure the front, side, and back doors are all locked, and 2) it was probably some methheads that know how to break into a standard cargo fleet van and steal power tools to pawn and buy more crack or whatever.

My dumbass question is: aside from buying an alarm, is there any way to make a van of this model more secure? Obviously we're going to make more pains to not keep anything of value in there, but I'm just wondering if there's anything we can do to tighten her up. If someone broke into in her once, they obviously know how to do it again.

At least those fuckers didn't steal the tree.

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madeintaipei
Jul 13, 2012

JacquelineDempsey posted:

This an extremely stupid question, no doubt.

My husband's 1990 Chevy G30 van got broken into. He just went out to fetch the Xmas tree he had in the back, and was surprised to find both front doors unlocked. Thieves stole his two tool boxes (but funny enough left the bomb-rear end Pioneer stereo). We currently live in a, shall we say, rough neighborhood, so 1) we are crazy vigilant about making sure the front, side, and back doors are all locked, and 2) it was probably some methheads that know how to break into a standard cargo fleet van and steal power tools to pawn and buy more crack or whatever.

My dumbass question is: aside from buying an alarm, is there any way to make a van of this model more secure? Obviously we're going to make more pains to not keep anything of value in there, but I'm just wondering if there's anything we can do to tighten her up. If someone broke into in her once, they obviously know how to do it again.

At least those fuckers didn't steal the tree.

How many doors? Does the van have windows?
Is there a divider between the passenger compartment and the back?

Puck locks (as below) and a divider/metal window shields are the standard. These only serve to slow a crook down, so parking in a well-lit area or behind a fence will still be a good idea.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkQlKVYEH_I

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