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Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal
It's not a stupid question, it's a big problem. If you go with a puck lock be sure to get one that's fully stainless steel (about $70 I believe). Nothing is fool proof. I've seen vans with a giant hole just cut in the back doors.

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taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:

taqueso posted:

2004 Volvo XC90
clunking from front end

Embarrassingly it was loose lugs on the wheel, which I had off the vehicle a couple days ago.

JacquelineDempsey
Aug 6, 2008

Women's Circuit Bender Union Local 34



Thanks for the replies! Puck lock is a great idea, we used those for our storage unit where I used to work, wouldn't have thought about incorporating them onto a van.

Thing is, they didn't come through the back or side --- those were still locked. I'm trying to figure out how to shore up the front doors (driver and passenger). It's also got a sliding side door, but I can easily see us putting a puck on that, too. (well, easier if they hadn't stolen all our drills. :( )

It's panel on the driver side, and has a window on the passenger side (in which I am going to put up some cardboard or something so you can't peek inside and say "hey! a 42" flatscreen!)*. Used to be an AT&T fleet van. Does NOT have the metal/window between cabin and storage, so they just got in the front and shuffled what they wanted out of there.

*Yeah, they took a TV, too. Jokes on them, the tv was busted, we just used it as glitchy visuals for our wacky avant garde electronic music performances. Plus, recent news stories have informed us that it used to be owned by a guy arrested for putting up YouTube videos that told ISIS members how to make bombs**.

**Dude used to live in the rental we're in now and left the tv behind. Saw his very distinct name on the local news, and yyyyep. We dubbed it The Terrorist TV.

madeintaipei
Jul 13, 2012

JacquelineDempsey posted:

Thanks for the replies! Puck lock is a great idea, we used those for our storage unit where I used to work, wouldn't have thought about incorporating them onto a van.

Thing is, they didn't come through the back or side --- those were still locked. I'm trying to figure out how to shore up the front doors (driver and passenger). It's also got a sliding side door, but I can easily see us putting a puck on that, too. (well, easier if they hadn't stolen all our drills. :( )

It's panel on the driver side, and has a window on the passenger side (in which I am going to put up some cardboard or something so you can't peek inside and say "hey! a 42" flatscreen!)*. Used to be an AT&T fleet van. Does NOT have the metal/window between cabin and storage, so they just got in the front and shuffled what they wanted out of there.

*Yeah, they took a TV, too. Jokes on them, the tv was busted, we just used it as glitchy visuals for our wacky avant garde electronic music performances. Plus, recent news stories have informed us that it used to be owned by a guy arrested for putting up YouTube videos that told ISIS members how to make bombs**.

**Dude used to live in the rental we're in now and left the tv behind. Saw his very distinct name on the local news, and yyyyep. We dubbed it The Terrorist TV.

Front doors you can't do much about. Without a divider welded in you might stack heavy, bulky stuff towards the front. Make 'em work for it.

If you can live without the sliding door, it would be relatively easy to disable. Jam a piece of wood in there.

Maybe paint the side window body-color (I'm guessing white)? There are weld-in panels to delete the window if you're handy.

There may be a place to park without gwtting a storage unit. What I've seen people do that need a monitored place to park on the cheap is ingratiate themselves with mangement at the local 7-11 or whatever. Park up front-ish, someone is there 24/7.

Lol. I, too, have had albatross TV's.

Chunjee
Oct 27, 2004

taqueso posted:

it was loose lugs on the wheel

:hmmyes:


Hadn't thought of this. Good catch.

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


simplefish posted:

It is struggling to idle and nearly stalling (when first started, not when warm)

I picked up some throttle body cleaner in case it was the idle valve thing in the throttle body, that's ok to use on an EGR valve right?

Edit:
And is there any way to tell whether it's the Idle Air Control or the EGR valve?
This is on my list of things to try to fix it:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=drFPRjPcFSE

I cleaned the MAF. No impact.

Trying the front bank's O2 sensor next.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



JacquelineDempsey posted:

Thanks for the replies! Puck lock is a great idea, we used those for our storage unit where I used to work, wouldn't have thought about incorporating them onto a van.

Thing is, they didn't come through the back or side --- those were still locked. I'm trying to figure out how to shore up the front doors (driver and passenger). It's also got a sliding side door, but I can easily see us putting a puck on that, too. (well, easier if they hadn't stolen all our drills. :( )

It's panel on the driver side, and has a window on the passenger side (in which I am going to put up some cardboard or something so you can't peek inside and say "hey! a 42" flatscreen!)*. Used to be an AT&T fleet van. Does NOT have the metal/window between cabin and storage, so they just got in the front and shuffled what they wanted out of there.

*Yeah, they took a TV, too. Jokes on them, the tv was busted, we just used it as glitchy visuals for our wacky avant garde electronic music performances. Plus, recent news stories have informed us that it used to be owned by a guy arrested for putting up YouTube videos that told ISIS members how to make bombs**.

**Dude used to live in the rental we're in now and left the tv behind. Saw his very distinct name on the local news, and yyyyep. We dubbed it The Terrorist TV.

Could you try rigging up some little magnet based noise alarms on the doors? Battery powered, not sure how long the battery will last depending on how cold your area gets. Similar concept to a home security system with magnets on the doors and windows. You can buy ones with a remote key fob to turn the alarm on/off.

Maybe there is something more car specific that you could wire to the battery.

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


simplefish posted:

I cleaned the MAF. No impact.

Trying the front bank's O2 sensor next.



Old O2 sensor was chalk white
Replacement-from-pull-a-part for comparison

Chunjee
Oct 27, 2004

simplefish posted:

Old O2 sensor was chalk white
Replacement-from-pull-a-part for comparison

Very likely running lean. Check your long term fuel trims and post findings ITT if the new sensor does not improve the idle.

simplefish
Mar 28, 2011

So long, and thanks for all the fish gallbladdΣrs!


Chunjee posted:

Very likely running lean. Check your long term fuel trims and post findings ITT if the new sensor does not improve the idle.

Good news: fixed the rough idle

Bad news:
- throws a new code: P0155. But I got a replacement sensor for the replacement while I was pulling parts so I'll throw that on next and see what happens

More bad news:
Did not fix the original issue from before I had parked it a few months.
That issue was that it drives okay for 10 mins, getting voltage off the Bank 2 O2 sensor like normal, then out of nowhere the Bank 2 O2 voltage drops to between 0 and 0.04V (while the Bank 1 reads like 0.7-0.9V) and the engine jumps into limp mode, throws CEL P0139 which for Toyotas is apprently VVT issue (so why does the bank 2 go to 0V?).
Bank 2 O2 voltage sometimes comes back at the normal range for a flicker while driving, but for a split second then back to reading 0-0.04.

The warmer the engine on startup the sooner that CEL comes back into driving. But it's independent of coolant temperature as read over OBD-II.

When I first asked about this someone in this thread said wiring harness issue and I am worried that they might be right.

My current thinking is
1) gets warm 2) ??? 3) loose connection

Worse news:
Has developed a mystery sound compared to before I parked it. Like crickets when the engine's running or a hiss, not really sure. Was too fed up after the O2 voltage poo poo came back.

simplefish fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Dec 16, 2019

SlayVus
Jul 10, 2009
Grimey Drawer
So my vehicle just died on the side of the road. I replaced the alternator and battery this October so the parts aren't even 2 months old yet. The voltage guage was showing halfway between 9 and 14 and then would just cut off. I drove it for about 60 miles before the electronics just started dying one by one in quick succession.

We were able to jump start the car, but it dies in short order after taking the jumper cables off. With the jumper cables attached the voltage still showed halfway between 9 and 14.

The alternator is an Omix-Ada 17225.22 120 Amp and the battery is an everstart Maxx group 65 700cca.

SlayVus fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Dec 16, 2019

ssb
Feb 16, 2006

WOULD YOU ACCOMPANY ME ON A BRISK WALK? I WOULD LIKE TO SPEAK WITH YOU!!


SlayVus posted:

So my vehicle just died on the side of the road. I replaced the alternator and battery this October so the parts aren't even 2 months old yet. The voltage guage was showing halfway between 9 and 14 and then would just cut off. I drove it for about 60 miles before the electronics just started dying one by one in quick succession.

We were able to jump start the car, but it dies in short order after taking the jumper cables off. With the jumper cables attached the voltage still showed halfway between 9 and 14.

The alternator is an Omix-Ada 17225.22 120 Amp and the battery is an everstart Maxx group 65 700cca.

I would start by doing the easiest thing and having both tested. I know like an autozone or whatever can test batteries, not sure about an alternator. Otherwise double check your connections - there could be corrosion or just a poor connection somewhere.

Chunjee
Oct 27, 2004

SlayVus posted:

The voltage guage was showing halfway between 9 and 14 and then would just cut off. I drove it for about 60 miles before the electronics just started dying one by one in quick succession.

Sounds like a bad part or major resistance in the wire. The type of car would be helpful. If it is a luxury model with lots of extras that will have even more dependance on correct voltage.

edit: I think I read "cut off" as "went to 0" when you mean the engine died. That could be anything.

simplefish posted:

Did not fix the original issue from before I had parked it a few months.

My first guess is something going wrong when it enters closed loop. Fix the P0155 if you can and post the long term fuel trim findings.

Chunjee fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Dec 16, 2019

SlayVus
Jul 10, 2009
Grimey Drawer

Chunjee posted:

Sounds like a bad part or major resistance in the wire. The type of car would be helpful. If it is a luxury model with lots of extras that will have even more dependance on correct voltage.

edit: I think I read "cut off" as "went to 0" when you mean the engine died. That could be anything.


My first guess is something going wrong when it enters closed loop. Fix the P0155 if you can and post the long term fuel trim findings.

It's a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo inline 6 automatic.

shortspecialbus posted:

I would start by doing the easiest thing and having both tested. I know like an autozone or whatever can test batteries, not sure about an alternator. Otherwise double check your connections - there could be corrosion or just a poor connection somewhere.

When I installed it I used silicon dielectric grease on the connections

SlayVus fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Dec 16, 2019

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

SlayVus posted:

So my vehicle just died on the side of the road. I replaced the alternator and battery this October so the parts aren't even 2 months old yet. The voltage guage was showing halfway between 9 and 14 and then would just cut off. I drove it for about 60 miles before the electronics just started dying one by one in quick succession.

We were able to jump start the car, but it dies in short order after taking the jumper cables off. With the jumper cables attached the voltage still showed halfway between 9 and 14.

The alternator is an Omix-Ada 17225.22 120 Amp and the battery is an everstart Maxx group 65 700cca.

Rebuilds are universally junk, so it's probably a bad alternator which has now killed your battery again.

By all means, check connections, etc. But it's probably gonna need to go back to the parts store to be bench tested (the alternator), they'll hand you another for free and then you can bring your battery back and see if it fails and you should get another one for almost nothing pro-rated.

SlayVus
Jul 10, 2009
Grimey Drawer

Motronic posted:

Rebuilds are universally junk, so it's probably a bad alternator which has now killed your battery again.

By all means, check connections, etc. But it's probably gonna need to go back to the parts store to be bench tested (the alternator), they'll hand you another for free and then you can bring your battery back and see if it fails and you should get another one for almost nothing pro-rated.

As far as I am aware this isn't a rebuild. I paid over $170 for the alternator. Stock alternator is a 90A this one is 120A. It's a OE replacement direct fit, didn't say it was recertified or refurbished according to the listing. A remanufactured alternator from AutoZone or advanced would have been like $60. I didn't pay a core fee either on it.

SlayVus fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Dec 16, 2019

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

SlayVus posted:

As far as I am aware this isn't a rebuild. I paid over $170 for the alternator. Stock alternator is a 90A this one is 120A. It's a OE replacement direct fit, didn't say it was recertified or refurbished according to the listing. A remanufactured alternator from AutoZone or advanced would have been like $60. I didn't pay a core fee either on it.

Ahh, okay. That make it less likely, but it's still a very decent possibility.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

SlayVus posted:

So my vehicle just died on the side of the road. I replaced the alternator and battery this October so the parts aren't even 2 months old yet. The voltage guage was showing halfway between 9 and 14 and then would just cut off. I drove it for about 60 miles before the electronics just started dying one by one in quick succession.

We were able to jump start the car, but it dies in short order after taking the jumper cables off. With the jumper cables attached the voltage still showed halfway between 9 and 14.

The alternator is an Omix-Ada 17225.22 120 Amp and the battery is an everstart Maxx group 65 700cca.

Your alternator poo poo the bed. Also, it should be showing very close to 14 while idling, a little above while driving.

Bank
Feb 20, 2004
My 2012 Mazda 5 seems to be driving fantastic now after getting the MAF cleaned out. But now I need to get the serpentine belt changed; In my 10+ years of owning cars I've never had to pay for it as I either did it myself (because access was stupid easy) or it was done right before I bought the car. Now that I have kids running around it's unlikely I'll be able to spend the time to take care of this myself.

Is there some guidance on finding a mechanic to take care of this or can I just go to a Jiffy Lube or other random shop to get it taken car of? It looks like the job should take 1-2 hours, but that's me looking at YouTube and not actually doing the work. Passenger wheel needs to come off, splash shield removed, then access to the tensioner is there.

Also, what's a decent price to pay for this? Part is around $25 and for 1-2 hours of labor I should look at $100-$150 for something reasonable and up to $200 max? Or am I being too conservative?

Grakkus
Sep 4, 2011



Here's one of the pistons off my 1970 Fulvia V4. How bad is damage like this? The car seemed to run great, the engine is apart for unrelated reasons. Can I keep running it this way? New pistons are super expensive. Also what would cause damage like that?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Was there any matching damage to the head in that cylinder?

If it ran great before and you don't have any other reasons to swap pistons, I'd send it. I'd be sorely tempted to smooth it out a bit to prevent it from becoming a hot spot but then I'd also be concerned about (further) loving with piston/rod balancing.

Grakkus
Sep 4, 2011

There's no visible damage to the head that I can see, and rotating the crank by hand I don't feel it binding at any point.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Grakkus posted:

There's no visible damage to the head that I can see, and rotating the crank by hand I don't feel it binding at any point.

It probably ate a valve or something at some point and the head was replaced. Send it.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Bank posted:

My 2012 Mazda 5 seems to be driving fantastic now after getting the MAF cleaned out. But now I need to get the serpentine belt changed; In my 10+ years of owning cars I've never had to pay for it as I either did it myself (because access was stupid easy) or it was done right before I bought the car. Now that I have kids running around it's unlikely I'll be able to spend the time to take care of this myself.

Is there some guidance on finding a mechanic to take care of this or can I just go to a Jiffy Lube or other random shop to get it taken car of? It looks like the job should take 1-2 hours, but that's me looking at YouTube and not actually doing the work. Passenger wheel needs to come off, splash shield removed, then access to the tensioner is there.

Also, what's a decent price to pay for this? Part is around $25 and for 1-2 hours of labor I should look at $100-$150 for something reasonable and up to $200 max? Or am I being too conservative?

For god sakes, no to Jiffy Lube.

I'd say an hour labor. With parts, 125 or so.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:
you've got like 5 inverted mini hemis there, probably good for 10-15 hp boost

REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS
Oct 3, 2003

What do you think it means, bitch?
Are there any rules of thumb to used car buying now? Went with cash, ready to negotiate, was told cash doesn’t mean poo poo anymore and there’s little negotiation to be had. It’s the (fake) internet price with a couple of considerations possibly thrown in.

I’m bummed because I’ll have to wait and save a while longer (to avoid any finance hassle/charges), but all part of the learning curve I suppose.

Are there particular times of month/year where the deals should get better? Starting to think I’ll have to private sale my old car too, not looking forward to that.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:

Are there any rules of thumb to used car buying now? Went with cash, ready to negotiate, was told cash doesn’t mean poo poo anymore and there’s little negotiation to be had. It’s the (fake) internet price with a couple of considerations possibly thrown in.

I’m bummed because I’ll have to wait and save a while longer (to avoid any finance hassle/charges), but all part of the learning curve I suppose.

Are there particular times of month/year where the deals should get better? Starting to think I’ll have to private sale my old car too, not looking forward to that.

The bringing cash thing only really applies for private sales. If you're buying at a dealer its not going to be much different than buying new.

And they get kickbacks if you finance so just do that then pay it off right away, just make sure there's no penalty for doing so, but that's pretty rare these days.

REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS
Oct 3, 2003

What do you think it means, bitch?

opengl128 posted:

The bringing cash thing only really applies for private sales. If you're buying at a dealer its not going to be much different than buying new.

And they get kickbacks if you finance so just do that then pay it off right away, just make sure there's no penalty for doing so, but that's pretty rare these days.

It doesn’t seem like financing gets you any additional considerations though, does it?
My wife is vehemently opposed to anything of the sort (despite paying it off in short order and so incurring only modest interest payments, as far as I can tell). So I’m probably stuck for now. I’m a bit leery on private sales, plus there isn’t a good online source for them (even Craigslist is overrun with dealer poo poo).

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:

It doesn’t seem like financing gets you any additional considerations though, does it?
My wife is vehemently opposed to anything of the sort (despite paying it off in short order and so incurring only modest interest payments, as far as I can tell). So I’m probably stuck for now. I’m a bit leery on private sales, plus there isn’t a good online source for them (even Craigslist is overrun with dealer poo poo).

I ran into the same thing with dealers when I was looking this summer. Something has changed in their basic operation, now they only move a couple hundred off of the advertised price, and it's really ridiculous in some cases. But whatever, if it works for them... kinda seems like there's a larger price-fixing issue going on, but I ended up buying private and found a MUCH better car than I was initially looking for. With no drama bullshit.

I had negotiated prices with a couple different dealers, always specifying "bottom line" or "out the door" offers, only to have them add $400-800 for bullshit "fees" that they were legally obligated to charge. Narrator: "They aren't."

And financing is dependent on the deal they offer. Sometimes the offers they have can make a real difference and you can pay it off at the first pay cycle. But that hinges on your credit to some degree.

Chunjee
Oct 27, 2004

December->March is the worst time to buy because everyone has their tax refunds and demand is high.

I've only ever bought private party so I'm by no means the expert.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:

meatpimp posted:

I ended up buying private and found a MUCH better car than I was initially looking for. With no drama bullshit.

:same:
I had to be patient, watch Craigslist for a couple weeks and drive 100 miles but I was worth it.

`Nemesis
Dec 30, 2000

railroad graffiti

Crusty Nutsack posted:

hello MKEan! I park in an underground garage.

Cool, you don't need much special then, but I'll make a few observations.

Tire quality is actually one of the most important factors for wet/dry/snow/ice traction quality.

I've had tremendous luck by doing significant research on tire rack and making a logical compromise between price, customer reviews, and their own reviews.

Even if you don't wanna buy tires from tirerack, you can hunt locally for them after.

If you wanna share your tire size I could make a bias suggestion.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Either walk from it, or refinance within a month.

The latter will screw them more.

REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS
Oct 3, 2003

What do you think it means, bitch?
Is craigslist the best avenue for private? As long as I can get a car checked out before I buy, I’d probably be in. I get nervous with the way lots of people treat their cars.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004


:911:
:wookie: :thermidor: :wookie:
:dehumanize:

:pirate::hf::tinfoil:
When I started talking to the latest seller, I asked about the transmission and they responded with an effort post about engine types and transmission types and reliability that matched what I had read, so I figured he was legit enough to drive out for.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





FB Marketplace has taken over a big chunk of the private car sale market since they don't charge to list.

Also, cars.com surprisingly still exists, and has people who look/list only there. I'm still convinced the main reason I was able to get my Wrangler cheap was because it was only listed there with a few blurry photos.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


2007 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off road, V6, 6-spd

Just had a brand new clutch put in (flywheel, disc, throwout bearing, the whole pack). When I start the truck now, there’s a rough kind of screechy grind while the starter is spinning, but not for the whole start cycle. Just kind of a “KkKKGGGHHH” about 0.5-1 second long over the normal starter sound. I’ve started it a handful of times since the work was done and driven normally, clutch feels great and everything is otherwise just fine. If I’m not imagining it, the sound is going away a little every time I start. The mechanic who did the work listened to it, said drive like normal, he’s not concerned, but made me an appointment to bring it in so he can check the starter and their stuff.

Could this just be the sound of a new flywheel and throwout bearing spinning? Why only during startup? Could the process of the work have unearthed a lurking problem? The guy who did the work didn’t even touch the starter or any of that gearing as far as I know. It’s a good shop, all the mechanics are certified, and I’ve had years of good experience with them so I’m not too worried about fuckery. I’m hoping they don’t charge me diagnostics for this, seeing as it didn’t exist before they installed the clutch.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Let the shop deal with it. The guy might not have touched the starter, but you mentioned the flywheel got machined or replaced or whatever. That *might* have required removing the starter (probably not but maybe).

If they're as reputable as you say, then they'll probably admit if it was something they did. Even the best mechanics can make mistakes.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe


Sounds like a starter mis-alignment; the starter gear catching on the flywheel, and going for a brief ride before disengaging.

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HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


PainterofCrap posted:

Sounds like a starter mis-alignment; the starter gear catching on the flywheel, and going for a brief ride before disengaging.

Yeah, that makes sense. It occurred to me after I posted that the sound is just like when you try to start a running vehicle.

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