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taqueso posted:My XC90 has 12 (i think) speakers installed and 16 locations where they can be mounted. How many channels can I drive with a typical double-din headunit? I'm guessing it is typical to combine tweeter/woofer pairs with crossovers and/or reduce the number of total speakers? Most head units have 4 channels, generally put out between 10 and 15W RMS (if you're lucky) into 4 ohms. You would be able to drive 2 speaker pairs with that (either woofer and tweeter with a crossover, or single drivers). The factory system will have several amps powering all that. Sometimes you can tap into the factory audio system, but more often they use proprietary technology to control the volume of the power amps, so it's not always a solution, and if you're replacing any speakers the whole lot has to come out. If you want to significantly upgrade that system, you will want to get a good head unit with 3 4v RCA preouts, and a few of the new small form factor 50W class D amps most manufacturers have now to power the main front and rear drivers, use the head unit for some of the smaller drivers (most head units have digital crossovers now), and chain it all together off the front and rear RCA preouts. Unless you're replacing the speakers, this isn't worth doing. Or just get plug a Bluetooth receiver into the aux in and use the factory stereo, it's not terrible. Edit: or of course, you could replace the front speakers and tweeters, run them from a small amp, disconnect all the others and tell your passengers to eat a dick.
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Nov 23, 2019 00:43
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Cool, that's about what I expected. I think I'm looking at a full replacement of the sound and nav system for a bunch of reasons, mostly revolving around the oem system being distributed around the car with optical cables and being strongly integrated. I've seen a few options for connecting to the steering controls so I'm not worried about that part too much. I've been thinking about some ideas involving removing the 2nd row center seat and third row seats and building a subwoofer enclosure / electronics bay / rear storage trunk system to level out the cargo area with the tailgate. So maybe I can delete the farthest back speakers.
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Nov 23, 2019 00:59
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I would say at the minimum you can definitely rationalise the number of speakers you need. Very few cars benefit from having more than a few good speakers in the front, and a sub somewhere in the back, other than to give the passengers something to listen to. Too many rear cabin speakers will just make things sound shittier up front. Or course, if you didn't need to move people around you would have almost any other car, so I'm guessing that's a requirement. You could probably get away with a set of coaxial speakers in the rear though, and cut a bunch of splits out altogether. My is300 has "8 speaker sound" for instance - the rears are actually bi-wired coaxials, and they consider the front tweeters as separate speakers so really it's just a 4 speaker system that will run off a 4channel head unit just fine with an adaptor harness. Not sure what weird layout the Volvo has but almost definitely will allow you to combine mids highs and midbass into a single driver. I wouldn't bother putting discreet tweeters in the rear.
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Nov 23, 2019 01:13
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My wife is interested in replacing the stock stereo in our 2009 Hyundai Tuscon with one that can support a rear camera. We don't have a rear camera at all right now, so I'm wondering what I could be getting myself into with this. I read about using the brake light line to signal or power it--it's even on the previous page. However, I'm then wondering what I'd getting into trying to run a wire or something all the way back to somewhere where I'd have to mount it. I saw some that just do this wirelessly and wonder if that's just the norm for a car that didn't support one in the first place.
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Dec 3, 2019 23:16
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You'd power it from the backup lights, not brake lights. The wiring is right there, so it's easy to tap into. Running the video cable is similar to running wiring for an amplifier - basically tuck it under trim until you get to the dash, run it up into the dash, curse a lot after you cut up your hands, plug it into the head unit. No clue about wireless ones, it's been a long time since I thought about adding one. A lot of them can mount to the license plate mount, though you'll need to check your state's laws - some states get pissy about the plate being obscured in any way, and that style tends to cover a small portion at the top.
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Dec 4, 2019 05:06
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STR posted:You'd power it from the backup lights, not brake lights. The wiring is right there, so it's easy to tap into. Ahh I meant the backup lights, but I'm not editing the post because that's funny. I can call it the rear end detection camera. I might want to just fork the $$$ to have somebody else to do it. I have an uncanny ability to destroy the plastic part of cars when I try to work on them.
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Dec 4, 2019 07:00
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My 50A amplifier fuse (for a 500w mono sub application) went after 2-3 years. All I could find to replace it is an 80A fuse. It's in and working fine (I looked for shorts etc and concluded that the original fuse failed due to age or w/e), should I be looking to order a 50A? I originally just bought this as part of an installation kit so the amp fusing wasn't tailored to my setup.
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Dec 5, 2019 04:11
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VelociBacon posted:My 50A amplifier fuse (for a 500w mono sub application) went after 2-3 years. All I could find to replace it is an 80A fuse. It's in and working fine (I looked for shorts etc and concluded that the original fuse failed due to age or w/e), should I be looking to order a 50A? I originally just bought this as part of an installation kit so the amp fusing wasn't tailored to my setup. What size power wire and what is the length of the run? This is what determines what fuse size should be used...not the amplifier.
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Dec 5, 2019 16:41
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Scrapez posted:What size power wire and what is the length of the run? This is what determines what fuse size should be used...not the amplifier. I think 8ga and about 10 feet. It's a 2007 GTI so not a very long car. Thanks.
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Dec 5, 2019 17:14
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https://www.cerrowire.com/products/resources/tables-calculators/ampacity-charts/ 8awg is rated for ~40-60A so probably not the greatest idea to run it at 80A. 4awg would be appropriate for 80A. That said, my gut says 80A on 8awg probably wouldn't start on fire in a room temperature environment, but I would follow the chart and not trust my gut (your insurance company sure won't care what I said/thought).
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Dec 5, 2019 17:42
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For a 10 for run, an 80 amp fuse is ideal on 8 gauge. This assumes it's good OFC 8 gauge wire and not CCA.
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Dec 5, 2019 21:56
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It's almost guaranteed to be CCA if it was purchased in a kit, unless it's something like a Rockford Fosgate or Kicker wiring kit (those start at $100 for the 8 gauge kits, most people go for the $30-50 kits that are pretty much always CCA). Even Rockford Fosgate's 8 gauge OFC kit includes a 40 amp fuse. OP, order a 40-50 amp fuse. The likely copper clad aluminum wiring you have should be treated like 10, maybe even 12 gauge. And that fuse did go for a reason, if it was a blade or bolt-in fuse anyway. The glass tube fuses do something just go from vibration (usually from the end caps breaking loose). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Dec 6, 2019 |
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Dec 6, 2019 15:15
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I work with electronics and we use a fair amount of wire and cable, but I have never come across anything actually using aluminum conductors until car stuff.
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Dec 6, 2019 16:57
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You haven't looked at recent low end ethernet cable - the cheap stuff is almost always CCA. It works fine as long as you use it for shorter runs (I used CCA CAT5e to wire up my parents house several years ago, still works fine). The power cables entering nearly every building in the US are also aluminum, same with a lot of power lines. So long as you know what you're dealing with, and downrate the wire accordingly, it's...... okay. It's obviously a huge cost cutting move, but if you're on a budget and wiring up a house for ethernet, or doing a low end car audio install, it gets the job done. Just treat it as if it's at least 1 gauge smaller. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Dec 6, 2019 |
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Dec 6, 2019 17:33
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STR posted:It's almost guaranteed to be CCA if it was purchased in a kit, unless it's something like a Rockford Fosgate or Kicker wiring kit (those start at $100 for the 8 gauge kits, most people go for the $30-50 kits that are pretty much always CCA). Even Rockford Fosgate's 8 gauge OFC kit includes a 40 amp fuse. Thanks, it was a glass tube variant and the fusible material was actually fine, I can't see where it becomes discontinuous but it would have to be somewhere at one end within the cap.
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Dec 7, 2019 01:24
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I've got the "big 3" wiring upgrade in (1/0, longest run is alternator positive at just over 5ft), and I'm about ready for a high output alternator. When I tested my amp's draw, it was only ~30 amps, but with A/C or defroster, headlights, wipers, running the engine, and actually turning the 12" subwoofer's dial above 2, I think I might be going above the 70 amps my alternator was rated for. I've found a 160 amp that's compatible with little effort, but I don't know if that's too much power. Or if "too much power" is even a thing, google results have been less than enlightening I know that 160 amps is the potential output at a specific RPM and isn't what will always be flowing out, but is there anything I should be wary of when installing one that could put out more than 100% of what was intended? I also plan on adding heated seats, upgrading the exterior and interior lighting, and more QoL improvements, so the idea of adding a second battery for good measure is also rattling around in my head
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Dec 9, 2019 03:22
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You can dump a higher amp alternator into the car just fine. So long as the wiring is capable of handling the draw from the battery/alternator to whatever is drawing power, you're fine. In this case, so long as the amp and sub wiring is sufficient for whatever it draws at full chat, you're good to go. Extra power is just that, extra. If its not being used, its just wasted, no big deal.
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Dec 9, 2019 05:05
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I think I remember my X1/9 having a fuse to protect some part of the ECM or maybe ignition relay from the alternator, but that car, and especially its wiring, was designed by a mad person. That mad person's design was then bean counted into the thinnest and/or lowest quality steel/wiring they could get away with I don't know if that all applies to my 93 Capri
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Dec 9, 2019 13:10
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Ok, weird question time. I like my head unit, but I'm going to sell my car. I'm going to take the head unit out and will need to replace it with something cheap, but I'm not sure if I should go full-retard and get something like this (mentioned a few pages back, which, if RIP Paul Walker thinks it's actually not full retard, may be the answer!) or if I should go in a different direction. It's a double-DIN slot in a Mustang, I'm comfortable rewiring and everything, just don't know if a $70 head unit is going to be so bad as to lower the resale of the car.
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Dec 9, 2019 22:39
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Who makes solid class D amplifiers that are reasonably priced? Preferably with DAC built in e: maybe I could make something with TI TAS3251 taqueso fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Dec 13, 2019 |
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Dec 13, 2019 21:10
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So I haven't bought speakers in ages. What's a quality 6.5" coaxial set around $100 these days? I prefer the sound of silk dome tweeters, at least from what I remember. My last set of speakers were Polk DXi coaxials, my favorites in the past have been Infinity. Was never impressed with Kicker, they sounded a bit too harsh. All 4 speakers are door mounted, in a station wagon (Subaru Outback). I have a decent aftermarket head unit already. I'll be running factory locations, factory wiring, off of a Kenwood HU. And this is really random and unlikely, but is there anything like a Stealthbox for an 00-04 Outback/Legacy wagon? There's plenty of hidden storage cabinets in it, and it was offered with a factory subwoofer in the top level trim. I don't want to toss my old ported 12" box in there and leave it visible. I don't want to drop big money on a sub enclosure, it'd just be nice to find something that can at least somewhat hide. Worst case I can just toss my old box in, I'll just have to keep the cargo cover on all the time.
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Dec 13, 2019 22:21
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Who sells car audio stuff at a good price? The only place I know of is crutchfield and that is from before the internet.
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Dec 14, 2019 02:14
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taqueso posted:Who sells car audio stuff at a good price? The only place I know of is crutchfield and that is from before the internet. Amazon warehouse deals.
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Dec 14, 2019 02:15
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Research on crutchfield, buy from an eBay seller. There are several with good reps and good prices.
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Dec 14, 2019 02:37
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Including Crutchfield themselves. I got my Kicker amp as an open box deal from them on eBay, cheaper than any other reputable seller. They used that expanding conforming foam since the original box was long gone, so it was still packed perfectly.
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Dec 14, 2019 02:57
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I buy from Crutchfield whenever I need a dash kit or wiring harness because they include it for free, or sell it at a decent discount. Also, Crutchfield is an authorized dealer for everything they sell, so if you are worried about a warranty, that would be my go to. I did but my last headunit from Amazon though because I didn't need any other ideas poo poo, but I did research the seller to make sure they were an authorized reseller for Pioneer.
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Dec 14, 2019 04:02
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The Door Frame posted:I've got the "big 3" wiring upgrade in (1/0, longest run is alternator positive at just over 5ft), and I'm about ready for a high output alternator. When I tested my amp's draw, it was only ~30 amps, but with A/C or defroster, headlights, wipers, running the engine, and actually turning the 12" subwoofer's dial above 2, I think I might be going above the 70 amps my alternator was rated for. I've found a 160 amp that's compatible with little effort, but I don't know if that's too much power. Or if "too much power" is even a thing, google results have been less than enlightening Unless you're going to be running all this poo poo regularly with the car off you don't need a second battery, and that's not what automotive batteries are really designed for anyway. You'll probably either need to upgrade the feed wires from the alternator to electrical (should go to the primary fuse box and the are going to usually be barely rated for current power levels), or you could run a secondary line direct to the battery (make sure you fuse it). If you do the first thing you'll also need to upgrade the primary fuse (it'll be the first fuse you hit from the alternator lines). Check and re-check, electrical fires are bad.
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Dec 17, 2019 21:52
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Any recommendations on keyless entry products/brand/vendor, or is it easier/cheaper to find an oem unit from a similar model in a junkyard? 14 Camry, I know that some Toyota's just need the part to add the feature, such as the stalk for cruise control, so I wonder. On the flipside, it appears the OEM unit is only $100, and well, that's easy AF: https://www.sparksparts.com/accessories-and-aftermarket-parts-keyless-entry-system-00016-32912?parent=1887 and the install seems p simple, especially since everything is plug and play with the harness. http://toyotaparts.sparkstoyota.com/install/00016-32901inst_06Cor07Cam.pdf toplitzin fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Dec 18, 2019 |
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Dec 18, 2019 12:38
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I've not bothered with much car audio stuff besides putting in a head unit before and not sure how to proceed. I listen to mostly podcasts and I have to crank the volume to even be able to clearly hear anything, and it just sounds...muddy and unclear. This is via bluetooth and plugged in directly to Android Auto. I've tried dicking with the equalizer settings a bit and shifting the balance and fade but nothing seems to have much effect. I'm wondering if the speakers are just junk, or if it's more because it's a minivan with a huge open cargo area with more road noise and volume. I can talk at a normal level and hear front seat passenger just fine though, so I don't think the road noise is that excessive. I already put in an Alpine ILX-w650 Android Auto unit but not sure how that's worked out with the stock speakers. I believe it has a 7 speaker system (4 in the doors, 2 tweeters in the dash maybe and a sub in the cargo area) that I don't know if anything outside of the door speakers are being powered anymore (unless they're powered off the door speakers since you're given wires for 4 speakers with most head units...don't exactly have component cables coming from the stock sub that I know of). What is enough to help my cause here? Just replacing the door speakers themselves? I've never dealt with amps and subs and feel that it may be excessive for what I'm looking for but I don't know much about this stuff. Any advice is appreciated.
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Dec 19, 2019 20:26
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Suburban Dad posted:I've not bothered with much car audio stuff besides putting in a head unit before and not sure how to proceed. I listen to mostly podcasts and I have to crank the volume to even be able to clearly hear anything, and it just sounds...muddy and unclear. This is via bluetooth and plugged in directly to Android Auto. I've tried dicking with the equalizer settings a bit and shifting the balance and fade but nothing seems to have much effect. I'm wondering if the speakers are just junk, or if it's more because it's a minivan with a huge open cargo area with more road noise and volume. I can talk at a normal level and hear front seat passenger just fine though, so I don't think the road noise is that excessive. Does your source have volume control as well, or does it pass directly to the head unit? If the former, crank the volume up on the bluetooth source all the way, then use your head unit to tune for listening volume.
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Dec 19, 2019 20:43
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If you adjust the panning of the output (like left/right, front/rear) all over does it sound muddy from every speaker or just one/some?
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Dec 19, 2019 20:45
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How do other sources (radio, cd) sound?
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Dec 19, 2019 20:54
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Uthor posted:How do other sources (radio, cd) sound? Well, they shipped the wrong antenna adapter initially, so I don't have it hooked up. And it doesn't play CDs, just digital media. To answer the other questions, I always crank my phone media to max volume but it still sounds the same over BT or plugged in. I'll try moving the fade and balance stuff around and see if it can be isolated.
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Dec 19, 2019 20:59
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Can you plug a USB stick or SD card into it? Aux cable?
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Dec 19, 2019 21:10
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So I'm getting a Metra harness all wired up to the harness on a new Kenwood. Quick question, on the Metra harness there's only a solid orange wire labeled illumination, and on the Kenwood harness there's an orange and white wire labeled for the dimmer. Do I connect these two?
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Dec 26, 2019 17:42
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Probably. They're usually nearly color matched to the HU's harness.
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Dec 26, 2019 17:49
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Suburban Dad posted:Probably. They're usually nearly color matched to the HU's harness. Yea, ones orange and ones orange and white, that's the only reason I'm questioning it.
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Dec 26, 2019 18:08
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What's the vehicle it's going into? The vehicle-side adapter on my WJ actually had separate lines for illumination and PCI bus (think CAN but shittier) and I want to say one was orange, one was orange/white. Came in really handy for the steering wheel adapter I used but I could see newer vehicles possibly not having a simple +12V illumination signal.
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Dec 26, 2019 19:34
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IOwnCalculus posted:What's the vehicle it's going into? The vehicle-side adapter on my WJ actually had separate lines for illumination and PCI bus (think CAN but shittier) and I want to say one was orange, one was orange/white. Came in really handy for the steering wheel adapter I used but I could see newer vehicles possibly not having a simple +12V illumination signal. It's a 2017 Elantra SE, pretty basic. Looking at the wiring diagram for car side, there are wires for CAN and illumination, but the only wire being used in the Metra harness is the illumination one.
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Dec 26, 2019 21:31
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If it's connecting to an actual illumination wire then yeah, I'd go ahead and connect them even with the mismatch.
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Dec 26, 2019 22:39
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