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You haven't specified a budget so the answer is as follows: pick up an LG C9 from Harvey Norman. Now! Go!
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Dec 26, 2019 10:08
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E.g. Is this a good buy?
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Dec 26, 2019 10:10
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I guess around 7-900?
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Dec 26, 2019 10:10
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Animal posted:Another question, what TV image settings are you guys using for your Shields/Apple TV's or any other external box with gaming functions? Just copy a review’s calibration and use Limited RGB unless you’re mirroring your desktop or, maybe, PC since I don’t know how that works.
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Dec 26, 2019 10:44
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sebmojo posted:I guess around 7-900? Even with the few weird issues I’ve had with my TCL 65R615 I still highly recommend checking out the TCL range around that price. That was basically my budget when I needed a new tv some months back and I’m really happy I went with what I did.
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Dec 26, 2019 14:06
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how do you guys handle 25fps content? personally i'm letting the media player convert it to 24 and handle syncing the audio, with the downside that i'm no longer passing through to the avr and resampling..but then the avr can upmix that back to 5.1 anyway, and it's pretty hard to notice the quality loss or difference in the untouched mix vs the resampled upmix tried a few different methods and that's what i settled on for smooth playback
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Dec 26, 2019 16:36
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Looking for some advice on what I should purchase: 65" @ <$1200. There are a few well reviewed TVs in that range. First, any absolute standouts? Second, do I NEED Dolby Vision or is something like a Samsung Q70 okay to buy?
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Dec 26, 2019 20:05
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Doc_Uzuki posted:Looking for some advice on what I should purchase: 65" @ <$1200. Spend $2-300 more and get the best tv at that price point, an LG OLED. Do not buy a QLED TV.
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Dec 26, 2019 20:11
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Aren’t OLEDs at that size a massive step up in price? Anyway, lemme dog up my post about bang for buck TVs.... Edit: the post wasn’t that helpful. Anyway, the go to pick around here if you don’t have the budget for an OLED is the TCL 6 series (in the US; international versions are different and worse.) You can get a better picture/more consistent panel quality by paying more, but very rapidly hit diminishing returns. Until you get into the OLED range, which is decidedly worth the money. Check rtings budget page for other recommendations. Boxman fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Dec 26, 2019 |
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Dec 26, 2019 21:07
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Boxman posted:Aren’t OLEDs at that size a massive step up in price? Anyway, lemme dog up my post about bang for buck TVs.... The 65" B9 LG OLED regularly goes on sale for around $1500-1700
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Dec 26, 2019 21:10
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mattfl posted:The 65" B9 LG OLED regularly goes on sale for around $1500-1700 And a P-Series Quantum goes for $900 which is a pretty significant price difference. No question an OLED is better but is it 90% better?
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Dec 26, 2019 23:03
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Doc_Uzuki posted:Looking for some advice on what I should purchase: 65" @ <$1200. I wouldn’t buy a new TV today that didn’t support it.
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Dec 26, 2019 23:14
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Three Olives posted:And a P-Series Quantum goes for $900 which is a pretty significant price difference. No question an OLED is better but is it 90% better?
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Dec 27, 2019 02:39
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Three Olives posted:And a P-Series Quantum goes for $900 which is a pretty significant price difference. No question an OLED is better but is it 90% better? Yep
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Dec 27, 2019 02:49
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Three Olives posted:And a P-Series Quantum goes for $900 which is a pretty significant price difference. No question an OLED is better but is it 90% better? In this exact case I would save up the extra $600~ and just spring for the OLED. But I've long maintained the stance that if you aren't buying an OLED, you really should just be stepping down to some sort of budget option to hold you over until you can afford the OLED (or get over whatever is stopping you from buying one to begin with). LCD displays have severe diminishing returns and throwing more money at them rarely gets you measurable improvements in quality or features. I will say that CES2020 is happening in January and it's possible LG will reveal a new model of OLED. I'm not sure what they can change or add at this point that would make it worth the wait (the *9 series is already excellent for movies, TV, and games alike), but I would probably feel a little sad if I dumped like $1600~ into a TV right now and LG revealed a new TV with some must-have feature. If nothing else, the announcement of the next model might further reduce the price of the 9 series. If you can wait until January 10th (the last day of the show) to pull the trigger, that might be wise. The Big Bad Worf fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Dec 27, 2019 |
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Dec 27, 2019 03:24
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So my roommate's Samsung smart TV that I was bitching about a few weeks back for being a slow piece of poo poo? I cracked the screen with a remote that I tossed in frustration after the Crunchroll app on the Xbox dropped my video stream and wouldn't restart even after killing the app thus necessitating a full shutdown and restart. In my defense, I'm sick right now and not always thinking clearly and my intention wasn't to hit the TV. In fact, I ended up striking the bottom side corner of the screen so the TV isn't completely unusable and the batteries and battery cover for the remote didn't go flying apart indicating a light throw. Whatever my intentions when I destroyed the TV, I'm going to own up to my mistake and buy a replacement. Even though my roommate may balk at a TV costing well over $1000, I figure I might as well go whole hog and get something good and somewhat future proof instead of a cheap door buster. Those LG OLEDs are certainly tempting and would go well the the XboneX and if I ever get around to building a more up to date gaming PC. That said, the alphabet soup with the B9 and C9 is a bit confusing considering that rtings.com claims there is not significant difference. What is the best place to get them and what is deal the with Rakuten that gets referred with the LG OLEDs? Right now, it seems like Amazon is actually almost competitive with the 65" B9 going around for $1800. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RMSLJK5?tag=rtings-tv-r-20&ie=UTF8&th=1 Also, I'm not sure if my roommate can take care of it to avoid burn in. He is not the most tech savvy and is seemingly inept and ignorant with anything more advanced than basic TVs, game consoles, and iPhones. I'm not completely privy to what he does on the TV beyond playing online Smash Ultimate (playing matches and spectating) so I'm not sure if his routine is varied enough to avoid burn in or if the burn-in mitigation measure will be adequate. I guess we need to have that talk first since I just broke the TV and see if he's willing to wait until CES while putting up with the damage or pulling out one of this other smaller TVs. (I poo poo you not; he has four 39" TVs that he keeps in the closet to have game nights with his friends.)
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Dec 27, 2019 03:45
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I have over 100 hours of Forza Horizon 4 on my OLED along with 3 years of kids watching a ton of Nick Jr and I have no signs of burn in. You'll be fine.
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Dec 27, 2019 04:15
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The biggest things for OLED burn in are basically don't watch cable TV news, and keep the brightness as low as you can tolerate for the room that it's in. Burn-in is cumulative, a TV at 50 brightness will burn much slower than a TV at 100. I usually keep mine between 40 (night time viewing) and 55 (Day time viewing), have over 1200~ hours logged on my C9, and a good amount of those were spent playing rhythm games or MMOs with static UI elements. No signs of trouble yet. I fully expect the set to last at least 4 more years, at which point I'm certain that some major new technology or feature set will be available that will encourage me to upgrade. If your friend is the sort to leave it in retail torch mode, or left his TV at max brightness outside of the retail torch mode, he may actually be someone that you would want to consider buying an LCD for. You don't really have to baby OLED, but it objectively wont last if he can't be at least a little aware of what he's using.
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Dec 27, 2019 04:29
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Edward IV posted:So my roommate's Samsung smart TV that I was bitching about a few weeks back for being a slow piece of poo poo? I cracked the screen with a remote that I tossed in frustration after the Crunchroll app on the Xbox dropped my video stream and wouldn't restart even after killing the app thus necessitating a full shutdown and restart. In my defense, I'm sick right now and not always thinking clearly and my intention wasn't to hit the TV. In fact, I ended up striking the bottom side corner of the screen so the TV isn't completely unusable and the batteries and battery cover for the remote didn't go flying apart indicating a light throw. You should get the OLED for yourself. For him get a top-tier TCL and he'll be plenty happy.
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Dec 27, 2019 08:15
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:You should get the OLED for yourself. For him get a top-tier TCL and he'll be plenty happy. Only issue with this is while we know in this thread it’s the better option, his roommate might need convincing that his name brand Samsung is not as good as the no-name TCL.
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Dec 27, 2019 13:01
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Turning to the TV (and headphone?) goons in hopes I can get this answered. Looked all over the web to no avail. So I have a lg c9 TV and I hooked up my wired headphones via the mini-jack on the rear of the TV. When I go to the sound menu, I can get sound from two options: "Line out" or "wired headphones". Which option should I choose and why? Which one is best in terms of sound quality (if there is a difference)? In addition, should I even bother with a headphone amp if I can just connect my cans directly to the TV? I have a pair of Sennheiser HD800s if that helps. Thanks!
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Dec 27, 2019 17:08
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MrMidnight posted:Turning to the TV (and headphone?) goons in hopes I can get this answered. Looked all over the web to no avail. I mean, try both and see which, if either, is better? This seems like a simple problem you could've solved in the time it took you to type up this post 
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Dec 27, 2019 17:13
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mattfl posted:I mean, try both and see which, if either, is better? This seems like a simple problem you could've solved in the time it took you to type up this post I did and they both seem the same. I just wondered if there was someone with in-depth knowledge about this stuff that could shed some light on any differences I may not notice. I'm at work on a Friday right after Christmas. Got a lot of time to kill.
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Dec 27, 2019 17:17
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Haven't tried it, but intuitively that should be a constant line-level output vs. variable output controlled by the TV volume -- so you'd want the headphone option.
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Dec 27, 2019 18:16
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Yeah "line out" should mean full volume no matter the level on the TV. The highest quality option would probably be using the optical out to a DAC/amp but that's getting into grognard territory and you may not notice a difference if you don't have weird hard to drive headphones.
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Dec 27, 2019 18:30
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Cool thanks guys. I'll use the headphones option.
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Dec 27, 2019 18:55
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My wife bought me all of the random poo poo you need to calibrate the 2019 LG OLEDs if anyone is interested, AMA. poo poo needed: 1) A colorimeter. If you're a stone cold baller you can get the C6 HDR2000 for $800 goddamn dollars, which is... cool, if you can afford/justify that, but most people will want the i1Display Pro. This device is $140-250 roughly, depending on if you can get it on sale or not, but it rarely goes on sale so unless you're willing to play a serious waiting game, you should probably just buy it. 2) Calman Home for LG, which is, as promised by the name, a Calman app that is specific to LG televisions including the LG 2019 OLEDs. This is $145. Now you may be saying WTF that is so expensive why is this happening I'm sad and scared but the reality is, this is a fraction of the cost of normal calibration tech. This is because the 2019 LG OLEDs have a built in HDR pattern generator. A generator produces the patterns you need on the screen to calibrate an HDR display. You can expect to pay on the order of $1,500 for a decent pattern generator, so as you can see, by including the generator within the 2019 OLEDs, LG has literally made HDR calibration mass market in a way it never was before. Another question you may be asking is, I can pay some random idiot to calibrate my TV for $300 or whatever, why should I give a gently caress about this? Well you're right, initially, but TVs drift out of calibration over time. This is because the properties of the display itself change as it's being used, especially with HDR and especially with OLED. You can pay for a pro calibration now, but it will be out of wack in a while, so if you just pay the price now to calibrate your own display, it works forever. 3) Hey should I give a gently caress? I like my OLED now, it's good This is true. The best display is the one that you like. Accuracy is largely overrated, and not for everyone. The specific reason you would like to calibrate your TV, is if you want your picture quality to directly match the content creator's vision. So if you're watching a movie, you can rest assured that you are watching something nearly identical to what that director intended. Personally, that's worth it to me. It may not be worth it for you, and that's fine. When you calibrate your TV it might not even look good. This is a loving key point of calibration and something that isn't stressed enough. The reason is, your EYES are calibrated to viewing your existing picture as normal. In most cases, this means that you are viewing a "cold" color temperature (so for example, whites would be tinged blue). But your brain has determined that these are accurate, so when you get a set calibrated, you may think it looks too YELLOW. Like, whites look yellow. The set is warmer than you expected. Again, I can't stress this enough. Over time you will understand the benefits of calibration. Hues will look extremely natural, and they will be more dim, which again, are natural. But you've likely been burning your eyeballs out with unrealistic color tones and brightness over the last weeks/months/years. Your brain will fight you on this at first. Then, more quickly than you think, it will relent, and the whites that you view as yellow will become true white. And the tones that you experience will become accurate. Just don't expect this to happen immediately, and DEFINITELY don't loving think you will calibrate your TV and be instantly in love, because your brain is a hell of a drug, and you won't. Anyways if anyone is interested in the particulars of this process or have any questions let me know. I got my set calibrated and it's beautiful, would do again, A+, and the barrier to entry is now $300-400 instead of, say, $2,000, but it's not for everyone, and you need to determine if you care.
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Dec 27, 2019 19:58
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Lol
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Dec 27, 2019 20:27
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Hey buddy, if you don't care, I feel like I went completely out of my way to explain that, it's fine, I hope you're doing ok. Just wanted to be super clear because the trolls, like this dude, have a point! Calibration isn't for everyone, and if your first intuition is 'I don't care' that is perfectly fine and you shouldn't care. Even after I calibrated my TV, I kept my game input non-calibrated, because I thought it looked better. That's why I go WAY out of my way to explain that accuracy is overrated depending on what you are into and what your end goal is. Taima fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Dec 27, 2019 |
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Dec 27, 2019 21:03
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If I was that anal about calibration I wouldn't go with an OLED with really bad motion handling like the LG OLED in the first place.
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Dec 28, 2019 00:21
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what's the difference between a LG B9 and a C9? Thinking I might hold out for an OLED now.
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Dec 28, 2019 00:33
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zer0spunk posted:If I was that anal about calibration I wouldn't go with an OLED with really bad motion handling like the LG OLED in the first place. I'm not sure I follow. Is this about the "stutter" that rtings reports on for 24p content? Because if that's it, 24p content is always 24p content, the only reason it might look smoother on an LCD based display is because the significantly slower pixel response times provides some feeling of "smoothness" that isn't actually there, and is also actively disruptive to times when you want to see clearly in a fast panning shot. sebmojo posted:what's the difference between a LG B9 and a C9? Thinking I might hold out for an OLED now. Feature-wise for now, they're identical. The C9 does have a faster processor in it, and in previous models this has made a difference (the B model did not get a feature patched in with a later firmware that the C and E models did receive, and the speed of the processor was cited as the reason). Considering the B9 was recently included in the firmware updates for gsync compatible whitelisting purposes, I'm not sure what meaningful feature they could add at this point that the B9 wouldn't be capable of. If there isn't a huge price difference you might want to grab the C model "just in case".
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Dec 28, 2019 00:55
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It's like $600 difference, so not inconsiderable
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Dec 28, 2019 01:14
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I watched the last episode of The Witcher on the built in Netflix app and basically kept turning off HDR and setting the light to the dark room preset. More than anything it's offensive that LG has gotten away with this for more than 3 years and haven't gotten blasted in reviews.bull3964 posted:I honestly run into the issue a bunch with my C6 and it's not something that can be adjusted in normal menus. You have to go into the service menu into disable (which I've done before while calibrating so test patterns don't dim.) My phone doesnt have an IR blaster so what remotes are good for getting into the service menu?
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Dec 28, 2019 01:25
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Mercrom posted:I watched the last episode of The Witcher on the built in Netflix app and basically kept turning off HDR and setting the light to the dark room preset. More than anything it's offensive that LG has gotten away with this for more than 3 years and haven't gotten blasted in reviews. I watch a ton of Netflix on my 2016 OLED and I've never ever had this happen. Just finished the last episode of The Witcher tonight.
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Dec 28, 2019 01:49
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GreenNight posted:I watch a ton of Netflix on my 2016 OLED and I've never ever had this happen. Just finished the last episode of The Witcher tonight. So what's the secret? Not using the built in app? I have looked over every single non-service video option on 2 TVs and have noticed the problem over several firmware updates through the Netflix app.
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Dec 28, 2019 02:17
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I use the built in app too. I use Expert (Dark Room) by default for all inputs anyways, but I've never seen HDR go out.
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Dec 28, 2019 02:25
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ASBL is the issue. It's what dims "static" content like if you have the video paused. If what you are watching (HDR or not) is a dim scene without much variance in brightness, the TV will think the signal is paused and start dimming the display. I had it happen a lot on Series of Unfortunate Events: The Austere Academy because it was very monochromatic and quite dim throughout. I remember one particular scene in Twin Peaks: The Return that also ended up quite dark by the end. If the screen changes enough, it will jump back up to normal brightness again. There's no way to affect the behavior from the normal TV menus (though I suppose it's possible it can be influenced by things light your normal brightness level or OLED light level, I'm not 100% sure how the algorithms work.) Harmony can be programmed for the service remote (at least for the 6 series, not sure if it's 100% the same for any other years. quote:Create a new device using an LG 47LE5300-UC using the software for your Harmony Remote.
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Dec 28, 2019 02:40
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Try adjusting the peak brightness setting to low or off and see if that helps. I have a B9 though and didn't notice this watching the Witcher recently. Although, Rtings says that the B9 has slightly less aggressive ABL than the C9 so that could be why.
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Dec 28, 2019 05:00
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bull3964 posted:ASBL is the issue. It's what dims "static" content like if you have the video paused. If what you are watching (HDR or not) is a dim scene without much variance in brightness, the TV will think the signal is paused and start dimming the display. As far as I understand it, you can turn this off completely in the service menu. Though, i don't believe you can turn off the overall brightness limiter (non-static ABL) that controls the overall peak brightness of the panel.
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Dec 28, 2019 05:42
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