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Just a quick question: I'm upgrading my CPU. Will my old tube of thermal paste from 5 years ago still work or should I get some new thermal paste as well?
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Dec 31, 2019 12:51
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Mikedawson posted:Just a quick question: I'm upgrading my CPU. Will my old tube of thermal paste from 5 years ago still work or should I get some new thermal paste as well? If your old paste was sealed, hasn't visibly broken down and the consistency is as you remember it, it should still do the job. Shelf life of thermal compound varies from product to product. I'd personally order new paste.
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Dec 31, 2019 13:08
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I have some huge tube of arctic silver that is like 20 years old and still obviously works and keeps CPUs cool. It probably helps that I keep the cap on the tube and the whole tube is in a sealed bag, but on the rare occasions when I pull an old system apart it is still greasy and flowing even after 3-6 years of being installed on heavily used systems. Its arctic silver III, which I don't know if you can even buy anymore.
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Dec 31, 2019 13:16
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In the UK, and I've got a 4-year old gaming PC from PC Specialist and looking to part with it (either in whole or separate components). It works fine, just looking to free up some cash. Any recommendations where to get rid? I was just thinking Ebay, Gumtree, etc.. tia
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Dec 31, 2019 18:50
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I'm trying to narrow down my options but I'm really indecisive so I'd like to enlist your help. Current situation is I have a Dell 7577 gaming laptop that is great for plugging into the tv and playing games that don't require a lot of cpu power. The downside is the cpu on this thing sucks and it's loud as hell when playing anything graphically intensive. The drat cpu is worse than the one in my desktop that I bought 7 years ago. I've been spoiled by being able to plug the laptop into my tv with little issue, so I'm interested in building a desktop that is small enough that I can swap it back and forth between an office and the living room pc without too much trouble. My current desktop case is a Fractal Design Define R3 Mid Tower, which is large enough that moving it is a chore. 20.52" x 8.17" x 17.32". I'd like to find something similar to this suggestion from MikeC but in a smaller form factor: MikeC posted:Flex 1080p at 100+ FPS or 1440p at 60+ FPS
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Dec 31, 2019 20:15
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It really depends on how small we are talking here. I built an ITX build in this: https://www.newegg.com/black-fractal-design-define-nano-s-mini-itx/p/N82E16811352061 But it's not necessarily super small. And then there are cases like this: https://www.dan-cases.com/dana4.php I had a friend build in one of these, and while it runs warm, it's awesome for moving around and it's super small. Edit: What you want to do is entirely possible. The things you need to make sure of when building small are: -ITX motherboard (you may have to flash BIOS with an old CPU if the options currently available for Ryzen ITX don't come with updated BIOS). -PSU form factor and make sure it isn't interfering with other components (GPU) -CPU Cooler (make sure the stock one will fit in the case or you may need to buy a low clearance CPU cooler) -GPU length/size. Just make sure it will fit in the case and not get in the way of the PSU/case fans. Thom P. Tiers fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Dec 31, 2019 |
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Dec 31, 2019 20:20
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Thom P. Tiers posted:It really depends on how small we are talking here. Yeah, this actually looks like exactly what I'm after. It's still big, but not so big that it's immobile. My current desktop case is nearly 21inches deep so once it's in place, it's not movin around. I looked into those much smaller cases, but it seemed like you definitely pay a premium on parts that all fit nice and snug in there.
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Dec 31, 2019 20:29
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Jolo posted:Yeah, this actually looks like exactly what I'm after. It's still big, but not so big that it's immobile. My current desktop case is nearly 21inches deep so once it's in place, it's not movin around. I was after something small but not super small as well. I settled on that and love it. I don't move it around much, but it's super easy to move around. Mobo: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CG34RMD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JVQQK69/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 GPU: https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-rtx-2070-super-rtx-2070-super-gaming-x-trio/p/N82E16814137439?Item=N82E16814137439 Along with a 3700x I had to buy that PSU instead of a normal sized PSU because the GPU I selected was absolutely massive and it wouldn't fit with a normal PSU. Other than that the case is great and very easy to work in.
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Dec 31, 2019 20:35
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In an ITX build the first thing you'll want to do is pick your case, because that will determine the size constraint for the rest of your components. The Fractal Design Nano S that Tiers linked will fit most anything outside of three-slot gpus, as would the NZXT H210 or the Lian Li TU150 (though you'd need an SFX PSU for the latter). When you get into tiny cases like the Dan A4 or NCase M1, you need to be very careful to ensure everything fits. I personally bought a variant of the Thermaltake Core V1 (the Suppressor F1) because it fits nicely in the niche on my desk and was cheaper and easier to work in than the smaller cases. I'd start by figuring out the maximum dimensions you'd like and maybe case style (cube, tower, small form factor [sff]) and we could make some more suggestions from there. There's also a SFF build thread, if you end up going down the rabbit hole!
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Dec 31, 2019 20:35
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I was pissed at myself for not jumping on the new 12nm Ryzen 1600 when it was recommended earlier in the thread, it doubled in price for awhile but is now back down to $85. Seems like a steal for that price when all the reviews say you can basically get 2600 performance out of it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XTQZJ28/
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Dec 31, 2019 22:13
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When it comes to the RX 5700 XT, is there one that's regarded as the best or a selection that's thought of as the best of? I'm not all that well versed or caught up on current computer hardware, but I need to switch away from Nvidia for my computer (hackintosh) and after a few months of thinking about it, I think the 5700 XT may be the best option. I currently have a 1060 and it ran great when I built the computer and even running those games now on Windows - runs great - but I kinda wanna dabble in 4K at least when doing basic computer, non-game stuff. If anyone has other recommendations, that'd be cool too.
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Dec 31, 2019 22:22
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The good value ones are the Sapphire Pulse or Nitro+, the Powercolor Red Dragon or Red Devil, the Gigabyte Gaming OC, and the MSi Gaming X. The blower cards are universally hot and loud. You'll want to avoid MSi's Evoke and Mech cards, the Asus TUF and the ASRock Challenger D, all of which also have pretty terrible cooling. The XFX Thicc II was terrible at launch, and while it's since been updated to be okay there's not really a good way of telling if you're getting the original or the refresh. It's possible that bios updates might have helped a few of these since launch, but I'd stick the tried-and-true models unless you're swapping out for an aftermarket cooler.
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Dec 31, 2019 23:04
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LODGE NORTH posted:When it comes to the RX 5700 XT, is there one that's regarded as the best or a selection that's thought of as the best of? The Gigabyte RX 5700 XT Gaming OC, Sapphire Pulse, and Powercolor Red Devil are all good cards. GN has a pretty good roundup https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5McVc0SQMHU
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Dec 31, 2019 23:08
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Rexxed posted:Yeah it definitely sounds like something may have been defective although it's not clear which. Screws are bad with shear forces but I wouldn't think you could put that much force on one just threading it into a threaded insert, even if it was a little cross-threaded. I'd reach out to the companies but considering that neither are headquartered, the US you may have to wait a couple of weeks for replacements. Amazon would undoubtedly be faster but you'd have to break everything down to ship it back for replacements which is also a pain. I ended up sending both back to Amazon and will get replacements by end of week. Kind of irritating, but completely understandable that these manufacturers can't ship stuff to me in less than a week. I guess Amazon will just resell it or send it back en masse to the respective manufacturers.
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Dec 31, 2019 23:29
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Demostrs posted:Ahh, sorry for the snark, I just managed to miss that Microcenter stocks that part despite checking to replace it with something that was also stocked at Microcenter. The Pro4 will be fine even if you wanna throw a 3700X into it eventually. Hope that building this ends up being a fun bonding experience for you and your kids! The experience went better than expected, right up until I had to figure out how to keep the backplate in plate to attach the stock cooler. That was... an experience.
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Jan 1, 2020 00:38
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I'm pretty out of the loop about hardware details other than broad strokes, but I got offered a couple year old hand-me-down 8 core AMD from a family member, and I'm trying to figure out what to do with it. I've got:
Is an R7-1700 appreciably better at gaming than a 2500K? My gut says no, but I could be wrong. I want to add another server host with the RAM / CPU to hold a couple of VMs to have a toy homelab. The NUC probably could, but I don't want to mess with it because it's in a config that I never have to think about it or do anything. If I'm right in assuming that a 2500K at 4.4 GHz and a 1700 are similar for gaming, then I'd prefer to have the 8C/16T in the new server. My options seem to be:
Anything that I'm missing? Can I run a Ryzen without a GPU? Which is likely to use less idle power?
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Jan 1, 2020 01:23
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Absolutely go with option one. A Ryzen 7 1700 will be leaps and bounds better than an i5-2500K for gaming, 4c/4t is dead going into the next decade.
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Jan 1, 2020 01:38
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Stickman posted:I personally bought a variant of the Thermaltake Core V1 (the Suppressor F1) because it fits nicely in the niche on my desk and was cheaper and easier to work in than the smaller cases. Thanks for the help! I really like the Suppressor F1 case that you have. I'm looking at spending a little extra for the 3700X but past there the main thing I'm looking for is a pc for playing recent games at 1080 or 1440 at a solid 60fps. Preferably in a setup that doesn't sound like a hair dryer when it's running. I've seen a lot of the same mobo/cpu/cooler combos throughout the thread, but starting from the mini form factor I don't know what's recommended. I'm not really interested in 4k or fiddling with Ray Tracing, so I don't need a top of the line gpu. Maybe I don't actually need the 3700X, I just don't want to end up in the same situation with my laptop where the cpu is the bottleneck and a lot of games just don't run well regardless of how much I fiddle with the graphics settings. edit: Thom P. Tiers posted:I was after something small but not super small as well. I settled on that and love it. I don't move it around much, but it's super easy to move around. Thank you as well!
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Jan 1, 2020 02:51
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I just saw this deal on some DDR4 3200 ram (2 x 8gb) for £50 which seems like a good price. But in the reviews there is some fussing about it not running at the advertised speeds, is there anything to this? Is it still worth getting? Edit: whilst I'm here this is the build I had in mind at the moment: What country are you in? UK What are you using the system for? Gaming is the most taxing thing I will be using the system for. Mostly I'm looking to build something in a smaller form factor as it will fit in where my desk is in the bedroom better, hence looking at mATX. Also want wireless networking as I can't practically run a cable to where the PC will be and would like to be able to move it if required without worrying about networking. What's your budget? £1000 If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? Currently 1920 x 1200, 60 Hz but if it fits in my budget I would like to upgrade to a higher resolution/refresh rate in the next few years. Currently playing rdr2 and want to play cyberpunk 2077 so being able to play those on high settings with a good fps would be preferable. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor (£172.00 @ Amazon UK) CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 34 CPU Cooler (£19.98 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: MSI B450M MORTAR MAX Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£89.99 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Patriot Viper 4 Blackout 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£56.90 @ Ebuyer) Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (£117.00 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card (£370.46 @ Scan.co.uk) Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£48.00 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: Corsair TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply (£64.97 @ Amazon UK) Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link Archer T6E AC1300 PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter (£34.99 @ Amazon UK) Total: £974.29 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-01 11:57 GMT+0000 Specific questions: Storage: I chose a samsung 860 evo ssd because I know they are reputable and what I am used to! Are there any better value drives that are just as good? Video card Was looking at the gigabyte gaming OC 2060 super but it is practically the same price and from what I can gather the 5700 xt will give me better performance for the money. Can I get anything for better value here? Case: Was recommended this case but also looking for other options of a similar size. Would probably prefer one without a window but it seems hard to find one in this size without so I'm not massively fussed. Ebola Dog fucked around with this message at 13:07 on Jan 1, 2020 |
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Jan 1, 2020 11:30
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LODGE NORTH posted:If anyone has other recommendations, that'd be cool too. There are some rumors about a major AMD GPU announcement at CES which is about a week from now. It likely has something to do with consoles or a launch in summer but I thought I’d mention it.
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Jan 1, 2020 12:53
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I am considering upgrading my CPU and I have read the OP which recommends a Ryzen 3600 but I have a few questions: 1) Is there any difference between the Ryzen 3600 and the Ryzen 3600X? The X is approximately £13 more expensive so I do not know what the differences could be due to that. 2) Is there a recommended motherboard for this CPU? 3) Are there any alternative CPUs that are worth considering at all? I suppose there are more powerful ones but they are more expensive?
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Jan 1, 2020 17:40
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X has a better cooler and is a better binned part. Tomahawk Max is the go-to motherboard for it. You should probably post up what you plan to use the PC for in order to get relevant recommendations.
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Jan 1, 2020 17:49
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Bank posted:X has a better cooler and is a better binned part. Tomahawk Max is the go-to motherboard for it. Okay, thank you. I don't know what "binned" means though and I'll research that motherboard. I would only like to replace the CPU and motherboard currently; I use this PC for gaming and general purposes.
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Jan 1, 2020 18:14
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Idiot question: Last time I built a computer, modular PSUs weren't a thing; just a box with a small fan blowing out the back of the unit. Now I've got a Corsair RM 750 and the larger fan is going to be either blowing into the case or out a vent on the bottom (I'm assuming it still blows out, right?). Which way is preferable? The case itself only has two 140mm fans, one in and one out, if that makes any difference.
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Jan 1, 2020 19:15
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Meaty Ore posted:Idiot question: The holes in the grate on the back of the PSU (where the power cord plugs into) is where it passively exhausts. The other fan on the big side is the intake fan. You generally want it facing down to pull cool air in, especially if you have a case with a filtered air inlet there. It doesn't need much room at all to pull air in - you'll probably notice that there is only a cm between where it mounts and the bottom of the case - that's honestly fine.
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Jan 1, 2020 19:45
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Ah, thank you for the clarification. Down it is, then.
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Jan 1, 2020 19:59
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Meaty Ore posted:Ah, thank you for the clarification. Down it is, then. When in doubt orientate components such that the marketeering wankery is right side up!
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Jan 1, 2020 20:04
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VelociBacon posted:When in doubt orientate components such that the marketeering wankery is right side up! honestly this is good life advice in general
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Jan 1, 2020 20:08
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RoboJoe posted:Okay, thank you. I don't know what "binned" means though and I'll research that motherboard. Basically when AMD produces CPUs they have to test them to see what the quality is like and if they meet minimum specs. They then get physically "binned" (segregated) at the factory based on the performance. Higher performing ones get the X designation and the "normal" ones don't. Really crappy ones get thrown out or put in a lower CPU performance pile. You may want to be more specific about what you're looking for though. What do you have now, what kind of games and resolution are you going to play at. What are the most intensive things you are running now that require an upgrade?
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Jan 1, 2020 20:39
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Bank posted:Basically when AMD produces CPUs they have to test them to see what the quality is like and if they meet minimum specs. They then get physically "binned" (segregated) at the factory based on the performance. Higher performing ones get the X designation and the "normal" ones don't. Really crappy ones get thrown out or put in a lower CPU performance pile. Ahh I see, okay that makes a lot of sense, thank you! I'm still not sure if going for the X would be a good idea or not in that case. I currently have a Ryzen 2600 and I play a lot of different games, FPS games, RPGs, city builders like Anno, or 4X like Civ. I play at 1440p too. When I bought this system I thought I would replace the CPU first, as I want to try upgrading something in it every year or so so I don't fall into a spiral of needing an entirely new PC like last time because it got to 7 years old and I had to buy an entirely new PC. Some games never seemed to run quite as well as I thought they would even after dropping settings for no real change so maybe something was wrong with this system as a whole but I don't know for sure.
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Jan 1, 2020 21:38
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RoboJoe posted:Ahh I see, okay that makes a lot of sense, thank you! I'm still not sure if going for the X would be a good idea or not in that case. Do not upgrade right now. The 2600 is still a very good CPU and there will not be a significant upgrade in FPS by going to Zen 2. Save your money right now. If FPS is consistently low, check GPU utilization. We will need the resolution of the monitor and target FPS along with current video card specs.
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Jan 1, 2020 22:17
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Ebola Dog posted:I just saw this deal on some DDR4 3200 ram (2 x 8gb) for £50 which seems like a good price. But in the reviews there is some fussing about it not running at the advertised speeds, is there anything to this? Is it still worth getting? I didn't look too closely into whether or not Patriot actually did at one point ship those modules with Samsung B-Die or the reviewers who talked about that were misinformed, but those people are upset that they didn't get the best of the best examples of DDR4 RAM but instead a much lower quality SK Hynix Die. Nowadays, though, people who care about optimizing their memory speeds and timings have Micron E-Die as an alternative, but most people are gonna be fine with any DDR4-3200 kit on their motherboard's QVL. There are better value NVMe drives than an 860 Evo, but the 5700 XT is pretty unbeatable in terms of value against Nvidia's offerings. The Thermaltake V21 is also a good, cheap case, but it's on the larger side of mATX cases actually; shrunk down versions of larger cases like the Focus G Mini or Define Mini C will occupy about 10 liters less volume. I do appreciate how it's actually a case designed to be mATX, though, and not "hope the thermals are still good when we shrink everything!" Here's a part list with some of my recommended changes, along with replacing the PSU with something with a 3-year longer warranty and full modularity: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/QCdBvW CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor (£172.00 @ Amazon UK) CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 34 CPU Cooler (£19.98 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: MSI B450M MORTAR MAX Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£89.99 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (£64.24 @ CCL Computers) Storage: Sabrent Rocket 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£109.99 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card (£370.46 @ Scan.co.uk) Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (£48.00 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£79.99 @ Box Limited) Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link Archer T6E AC1300 PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter (£34.99 @ Amazon UK) Total: £989.64 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-01 21:23 GMT+0000 Demostrs fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Jan 1, 2020 |
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Jan 1, 2020 22:25
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Random question: anyone bought anything from the "Corsair Outlet" on amazon, which is their official factory refurbs? And what do people think about buying a refurb PSU? A friend had his PSU die, I'm currently loaning him my backup. He's very tight on finances at the moment. A corsair CX (non-modular version) for $65-70 is pretty much the cheapest PSU that I'd tell him to go with... But corsair RMX units are occasionally showing up for not much more than that on refurb. I can't decide if a refurb PSU sounds like a solid idea (they must test them out, right?) or a terrible one. I've generally been a Seasonic loyalist but the prices for even the cheapest Focus line have gone way high.
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Jan 1, 2020 22:59
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Hey Thread. I keep a racing seat and 4k TV upstairs and would like to put together a pretty basic system for it. I already have a Vega64 and a 1TB SSD from an old system build I parted out. I'm trying to think of what CPU/Mobo/RAM/PSU parts I can pick out to toss together that will run basically Project Cars 2, AC, Some Dirt 2.0 and the like. None of the games are incredibly demanding. I was thinking about a 3600 + associated parts, but honestly a CPU with fewer threads and more clock would actually be fine for these games. Anybody have any recommendations? This system will only be playing these few racing games, as I keep a proper gaming rig downstairs in the living room for other things. Specifically: Which budget CPU is considered strongest for largely single-threaded games? I am totally fine looking at last-gen parts. I have no preference w/r/t intel or AMD. Motherboards can be basic. Budget is around $500 or so. I'm in the US.
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Jan 2, 2020 00:03
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PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($322.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($123.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($74.67 @ Amazon) Storage: HP EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($114.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB PULSE Video Card ($399.99 @ Newegg) Case: Thermaltake Suppressor F1 Mini ITX Desktop Case ($69.98 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1206.59 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-01 20:08 EST-0500 Anything egregious here? I didn't pick out a 3rd party cpu cooler, do I need one? As for the Power Supply, I don't need 650 but all of the gold certifieds started at $99 so I just went with the 650 over last year's 550. Reading around it sounds like these motherboards are all updated to the necessary BIOS . I picked that one out for the built in wifi card and the ability to power 2 case fans.
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Jan 2, 2020 02:19
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Linux Nazi posted:Hey Thread. Your TV is only going to run at 60hz so you'll never be CPU limited with any recent processor. A 2600 is about as cheap as a CPU comes and will do fine. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($120.98 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($78.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($63.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX VEGA 64 8 GB NITRO+ Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Power Supply: Corsair HX Platinum 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Newegg) Total: $383.94 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-01 20:36 EST-0500 You could drop another $40 on a better motherboard (Tomahawk MAX) which might be a good move if you're going to drop a more powerful CPU in down the line. PSU pricing is hosed right now, but as a consequence the platinum PSU I have there is only $5 more than a more typical recommendation, but if this changes a Corsair RMx at 650+ will likely be your best choice
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Jan 2, 2020 02:40
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So I've used my wired xbox 360 controller (with my PC) for a very very long time and it's pretty worn out and doing that thing where the sticks are falling apart into dust, itself a metaphor for all the destroyed nerds that have fallen to my goony thumbs. I read up a bit and saw that wireless 360 controllers use a proprietary RF/WF system where you need a dongle so that seems dumb. The wireless xbox 1 controllers seem like they're bluetooth - can I just pair it to my BT motherboard and be good to go? How's the lag situation there vs a wired controller? Are there very good 3rd party options?
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Jan 2, 2020 03:35
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VelociBacon posted:So I've used my wired xbox 360 controller (with my PC) for a very very long time and it's pretty worn out and doing that thing where the sticks are falling apart into dust, itself a metaphor for all the destroyed nerds that have fallen to my goony thumbs. It’s pretty much personal preference but check out 8bitdo’s line of controllers. The SN30 Pro Plus works with Windows/MacOS, Switch and mobile. I use mine with my MacBook, iPad Pro, and NES Classic. Still building my gaming PC but it works fine in Windows and Steam through Bootcamp. 
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Jan 2, 2020 04:09
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VelociBacon posted:So I've used my wired xbox 360 controller (with my PC) for a very very long time and it's pretty worn out and doing that thing where the sticks are falling apart into dust, itself a metaphor for all the destroyed nerds that have fallen to my goony thumbs. I use the bluetooth xbox one controller and it works great. I beat Celeste on it if that matters. The D-Pad is lovely though but that's the case for all Microsoft controllers. My Asus B450 board has bt built-in and it works fine. Mu Zeta fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Jan 2, 2020 |
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Jan 2, 2020 04:18
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VelociBacon posted:So I've used my wired xbox 360 controller (with my PC) for a very very long time and it's pretty worn out and doing that thing where the sticks are falling apart into dust, itself a metaphor for all the destroyed nerds that have fallen to my goony thumbs. Bluetooth is fine for game controllers, there's like 10-25ms more lag than wired but if you're enough of a pr0 esporks gam3r that such matters you wouldn't be using an old 360 controller on PC anyways. If you need to get a USB BT adapter you want one that works with the standard windows BT stack which is good. I have the asus BT400 and can recommend it (don't have a xbox controller but it works with a DS4 & wireless BT headphones perfectly). Not the best range in the world, but I think all BT micro usb dongles are not great in that respect. You want either a free usb on the front of your PC or an extension cable, because plugging them in the back they get blocked by the PC case.
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Jan 2, 2020 04:34
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