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peepsalot posted:Anyone recommend a decent respirator setup that's not too pricy? I guess mostly for sanding/polishing metal, and maybe some woodwork. I've used some 3m disposable ones but I feel like fine dust still creeps in around the edges or something, so I'm wondering if I should switch to one those "proper" looking ones with the two little canisters on the sides. Former hazmat tech here. We used half masks for particles like this one: https://www.amazon.com/North-Safety-770030L-Silicone-Respirator/dp/B002C08YCW/ They make both dust filters and organic vapor filters. The filters do have a layer of carbon, but they're much more complicated than that. At least NIOSH rated ones are. Want to cut out safety glasses? Get a full mask like this one: https://www.amazon.com/North-760008A-Silicone-Facepiece-Respirators/dp/B00142BRF0/ I find they're more comfortable than a half mask and safety glasses. They use the same cartridges which is useful if you own both options like I do. Note that neither of these solutions work with facial hair. MAKE SURE YOUR MASK FITS. While you probably won't die from vapor inhalation, the whole exercise is useless if it leaks. You have the option to get them professionally fitted if you'd like. Your local fire department will have a company name handy. You will also need mask wipes to keep them clean and sanitary. The one linked is what I literally use on my MSA Nightfighter SCBA mask. Make sure you date your cartridges. If your using a vapor cartridge, replacement will be based on how often you use it, but they have a shelf life you should definitely follow. With daily use I changed my mask organic vapor cartridges every other week. Basically you start smelling stuff, it's no good. A step up from a full face mask is SCBA stuff. Masks with redirected or supplied air. You won't need that. A step down from these masks are N-95 rated dust masks, which can do fine, even with fine dust. There are no PPE options in between. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 08:19 on Dec 31, 2019 |
# ? Dec 31, 2019 08:05 |
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# ? Apr 23, 2024 11:53 |
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um excuse me posted:Former hazmat tech here. We used half masks for particles like this one:
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# ? Dec 31, 2019 08:55 |
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Any recommendations on an OBD II code reader? I'm not a pro, but I do try to fix things on my own when I can. It'd nice to pick something up for under $50, I know it comes with some sacrifices. I've got a couple Harbor Freight coupons, but it looks like Amazon might have some better options, like this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XE8C74/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3MNQOSQ336D3K&psc=1 I'm an Apple guy, but if Torque would really be better than anything, I'd consider it. Wouldn't mind recommendations for a scanner nonetheless though. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Jan 2, 2020 |
# ? Jan 2, 2020 05:24 |
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I’ve got this one: Veepeak Mini WiFi OBD2 Scanner for iOS and Android, Car OBD II Check Engine Light Diagnostic Code Reader Scan Tool Supports Torque Pro, OBD Fusion, Car Scanner App https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WPW6BAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.AxdEbHZTC0TJ And use it with OBD Fusion on iOS. I’ve also got a cheap ELM clone that I use with Torque on an Android. The only difference I’ve noted is minor complaints that are probably down to that “cheap” part - I.e. they’re functionally identical, but the android / elm combo gives me more trouble with connecting and eventually failed completely, while the Veepeak + iOS connects first time every time and hasn’t failed yet (2.5 years).
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# ? Jan 2, 2020 05:54 |
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Krakkles posted:I’ve got this one: Cool! I’m gonna run with that. Looks like you get quite a few features for as much as you would spend on a tool that can really only read codes.
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# ? Jan 2, 2020 15:13 |
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Why did WiFi scanners used to be $100+? I remember when the stock advice for iPhone users was to buy a Bluetooth reader and a cheap Android phone.
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# ? Jan 2, 2020 15:49 |
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Bluetooth was/is available as a single-chip solution, but wifi required a separate module that was fairly expensive (like 5x the single chip bluetooth microcontroller). I believe you can get wifi on-chip now like bluetooth. e: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/4065/1528-2850-ND/9919537 is from adafruit (so not big business) and it's still <$6 for everything you need except the canbus interface (like $2, $6 for a really nice one). The chip they are using is about a dollar if you are going to make your own pcb and antenna. 10 years ago it would have been like $20 for just the wifi module taqueso fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Jan 2, 2020 |
# ? Jan 2, 2020 22:49 |
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The ESP8266 became available in 2014.
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# ? Jan 3, 2020 03:11 |
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Not an auto-related tool, but I never thought I'd be excited about a drywall taping knife. Actually, I never thought that drywall taping knives were anything other than all-the-same. But today I got a one-piece stainless 4" knife and it transformed the way I can mud. It's flexible, but still stiff enough that I can get good pressure all over the width of the blade. The difference? $15 instead of $5, but absolutely worth it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wal-Boa..._-302664862-_-N
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# ? Jan 5, 2020 21:54 |
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Wait until you get your hands on a 12-16". If you're doing well with that knife it doesn't take too long to get the touch for skim coating, which is a really really good finishing step if you're patching something in the middle of a wall.
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# ? Jan 5, 2020 22:48 |
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Motronic posted:Wait until you get your hands on a 12-16". If you're doing well with that knife it doesn't take too long to get the touch for skim coating, which is a really really good finishing step if you're patching something in the middle of a wall. I've got a couple long knives like that, but they're 2-piece and they do work great for larger stuff, but today I was working on replacing the shelves in my pantry from wire shelving that was anchored with toggles every foot (so a total of about 40 different holes that I had to punch the toggle through, then cut a 3/4"x3/4" square around the hole to get a clean edge to patch. I got the new knife because I broke/fatigued my last one and the difference was huge. The only premix I had was topping and it shrinks like crazy, but with the new 1-piece stainless knife, I was able to pack it in and get the finish in the last step. It would have been 2 steps with my old, more flexy, knife. Bottom line is that I've got a surface that had 40 cutouts in it this morning that's ready to prime tomorrow and I'm stoked!
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# ? Jan 6, 2020 00:01 |
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I found something that's basically the best carb/throttle body/brake cleaner/degreaser out there. Berkblie 2+2 gum cutter. A couple of years back the guys at my local parts store noticed me buying a lot of brake cleaner and turned me on to it. Stuff is about as vile as brake cleaner but works quite a bit better. Degreases basically anything, not exactly safe for paint or plastics, but i buy it by the case and it's worth it.
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# ? Jan 6, 2020 15:12 |
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Any suggestions for drill collars/drill bit stop (whatever you call them) or just buy the cheapest crap on Amazon? It's not exactly a precision tool and I figure most should be fine as long as the set screw thread doesn't strip out.
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# ? Jan 6, 2020 15:57 |
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People use something other than tape?
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# ? Jan 6, 2020 19:08 |
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FatCow posted:People use something other than tape? I hope my surgeon did when he fixed up my shoulder.
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# ? Jan 6, 2020 19:16 |
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Dacheat posted:I found something that's basically the best carb/throttle body/brake cleaner/degreaser out there. I use it, I like it. I'm fairly comfortable in liberally spraying non chlorinated brake clean around with no PPE, since it's mostly just Acetone. However... Gum Cutter is MUCH worse for you than brake clean, as a caution. It's a mix of Acetone, Toluene and Xylene in equal parts. Toluene and Xylene are not to be taken lightly. I'm personally much more cautious, and actually wear PPE when I use it.
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# ? Jan 7, 2020 15:19 |
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I'm having trouble finding an alterantive to the pinch weld jack pads that Quickjack offer. They are either on backorder and/or super expensive when it comes to shipping. Anyone have any good alternatives that exist in the EU?
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# ? Jan 8, 2020 19:09 |
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MrOnBicycle posted:I'm having trouble finding an alterantive to the pinch weld jack pads that Quickjack offer. They are either on backorder and/or super expensive when it comes to shipping. Anyone have any good alternatives that exist in the EU? Can you link the ones that are too expensive or unavailable?
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# ? Jan 8, 2020 19:18 |
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MrOnBicycle posted:I'm having trouble finding an alterantive to the pinch weld jack pads that Quickjack offer. They are either on backorder and/or super expensive when it comes to shipping. Anyone have any good alternatives that exist in the EU? This may be useless to suggest but have you tried calling or emailing QJ directly? Maybe they can point you to their Euro supplier? If it'd be useful to you I can take any measurements of my pads if you are trying to buy some sort of alternative product.
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# ? Jan 8, 2020 19:30 |
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MrOnBicycle posted:I'm having trouble finding an alterantive to the pinch weld jack pads that Quickjack offer. They are either on backorder and/or super expensive when it comes to shipping. Anyone have any good alternatives that exist in the EU? A router and a hockey puck.
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# ? Jan 8, 2020 20:02 |
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Suburban Dad posted:A router and a hockey puck. tangy yet delightful posted:This may be useless to suggest but have you tried calling or emailing QJ directly? Maybe they can point you to their Euro supplier? If it'd be useful to you I can take any measurements of my pads if you are trying to buy some sort of alternative product. They have NL, UK, Belgian and German suppliers IIRC. Kinda links to same site that want €100 flat rate for a couple of blocks that already are about €85 (before VAT lol) for a set. I think I might buy some scissor lift pads like these: ..and mimic the blocks. I guess the QJ pinch weld blocks are the same size as the taller QJ blocks they supply with the lift? Otherwise I'd love some measurements if it's not to much of a hassle. Especially interested in how wide the pinch weld groove is. bolind posted:Can you link the ones that are too expensive or unavailable? https://www.quickjack.de/en/pinch-weld-rubber-blocks-set-of-4.html https://www.quickjack-nederland.nl/product/pinchweld-rubbere-hefpads-set-van-4-stuks/
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# ? Jan 9, 2020 18:16 |
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Well actually it turns out I'm stupid and didn't realize they sell multiple block types. I just have their normal blocks and not the pinch weld ones. However I use them to lift via my pinch welds and they seem to work fine? I'd have to read the manual again but I think they even say it's fine.
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# ? Jan 9, 2020 18:51 |
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MrOnBicycle posted:They have NL, UK, Belgian and German suppliers IIRC. Kinda links to same site that want €100 flat rate for a couple of blocks that already are about €85 (before VAT lol) for a set. I think I might buy some scissor lift pads like these: The one in your picture, if it's the one from Biltema, stinks to high heaven years after you've bought it. Agreed, hockey puck and table saw.
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# ? Jan 9, 2020 20:34 |
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Are any of the auto parts store brands of tools worth a poo poo?
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# ? Jan 9, 2020 21:13 |
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Minto Took posted:Are any of the auto parts store brands of tools worth a poo poo? It's chinesium all the way down.
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# ? Jan 9, 2020 21:16 |
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Rhyno posted:It's chinesium all the way down. Yup. Good for the job you're buying them for. Anything beyond that is a bonus.
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# ? Jan 9, 2020 21:28 |
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My dad bought me some ryobi hand tools so now I have a bright green hammer and screwdrivers. Better than the silly RC car!
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# ? Jan 9, 2020 21:30 |
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Bought my first SUV (GX 460) and I think my harbor freight racing jack isn't going to work (haven't tried it out yet). Is there a standard HF jack for SUVs/trucks? Just the typical 3 ton one in different colors?
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# ? Jan 9, 2020 23:19 |
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MomJeans420 posted:Bought my first SUV (GX 460) and I think my harbor freight racing jack isn't going to work (haven't tried it out yet). Is there a standard HF jack for SUVs/trucks? Just the typical 3 ton one in different colors? No it won't and yes that's the one.
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# ? Jan 9, 2020 23:48 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Oh, yeah, it definitely is from any of the 20-25% coupons. HFQPDB has coupons for the regular yellow and the new low profile Daytonas, though: Quoting from the last page, I bought this last week and it seems real well made and lifts quickly. Easier to move around than my (slightly narrower) 3.5T NAPA jack it's replacing, too. I really liked the low profile 3T but it wasn't on sale and despite lifting a little higher, dropping lower, and having a foot pedal which is real nice... It didn't appear to have as much steel in it's construction (and I'm lifting my 3500), so I went with the heavy duty which appeared to be marketed as the commercial-level option.
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# ? Jan 10, 2020 00:06 |
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I've found their cheap bottle jack useful when working on my SUV.
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# ? Jan 10, 2020 00:09 |
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That's a good point, and I need to pick up one of those to keep in the truck myself.
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# ? Jan 10, 2020 00:18 |
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The jack you already own plus a hunk of wood?
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# ? Jan 10, 2020 00:36 |
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Astonishing Wang posted:The jack you already own plus a hunk of wood? Lemme tell you how I dropped my Mom's new CR-V and found out that the lower door trim is just a rubber piece that pops back into place.
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# ? Jan 10, 2020 01:16 |
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I'm looking for a way to measure engine RPMs quickly and accurately to set engine idle and check the accuracy of my tach. I'm currently looking at the Briggs and Stratton one for simplicity, but I'm overwhelmed by how many choices there are in the $20-$50 rangeMinto Took posted:Are any of the auto parts store brands of tools worth a poo poo? Almost everything else I've bought that's not solid metal and/or has moving parts has been garbage that breaks within a handful of uses. May as well save your money and go Harbor Freight Maybe I got lucky a couple times, but I love my Whatever Brand long cable hose clamp pliers (from O'Reilly's?) and I got a 3/8" low profile Duralast ratchet/socket set that's good enough to be in my car as part of my emergency tool kit
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# ? Jan 10, 2020 01:49 |
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The Door Frame posted:I'm looking for a way to measure engine RPMs quickly and accurately to set engine idle and check the accuracy of my tach. I'm currently looking at the Briggs and Stratton one for simplicity, but I'm overwhelmed by how many choices there are in the $20-$50 range I can't even quite tell what that thing does. It works on vibration? And it's over $20? Every one of these $12 hour meters will give you RPMs: https://www.amazon.com/Maintenance-...N2ABTYYEJSAKAFM
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# ? Jan 10, 2020 01:55 |
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Yeah the little hour meters work fine. A photo tach works, too. That briggs and stratton thing just jiggles the antenna from vibration? No idea how well that would work on something other than a lawnmower.
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# ? Jan 10, 2020 02:25 |
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Thanks for the coupon link, I'll have to pick up one of those HF jacks before it expires
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# ? Jan 10, 2020 03:54 |
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Specifically I think the jiggler ones will only work on a single cylinder engine, since 1-stroke=1-jiggle.
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# ? Jan 10, 2020 04:35 |
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# ? Apr 23, 2024 11:53 |
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Elviscat posted:Specifically I think the jiggler ones will only work on a single cylinder engine, since 1-stroke=1-jiggle. I mean.....just like the cheap hour meters you just set the scale for how many times the plug fires per revolution. I assume you can do the same for how many jiggles per revolution on those. It just seems like more trouble, less useful (to find a good spot to put it) and twice as expensive. All you need to do to "install" one of those cheap hour meters is wrap the cord around a plug wire a couple of times.
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# ? Jan 10, 2020 04:36 |