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Wife surprised me for Xmas with this. Redneck Ram Hydro steer upgrade. Got it installed today with a buddy in about 3 hours https://imgur.com/gallery/IxoljZz Love the steering now and can’t wait to get it off-road where it’ll really shine.
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Dec 28, 2019 21:25
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New NSS installed, code returned. I saw some posts mentioning that it may simply be adjustment of the NSS, and so attempted the suggested method from forums (put it reverse, move the NSS until the lights go off, repeat the other direction, then put it in the middle of that range), and ... my reverse lights never went off. So ... I don't know what that means. I looked in the FSM for a different/better adjustment procedure, it doesn't even mention it. Wits end, help please! Krakkles fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Jan 12, 2020 |
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Dec 29, 2019 04:08
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Here is my submission for group membership. It is the third jeep that I have owned and by far the oldest. 1947 CJ-2A Willys Original L-134 "Go Devil" 4 cyl engine, transmission and xfer case.  I picked it up almost a year ago but it has been sitting under a tarp waiting for me to finish some other projects. This January it starts being the main project. The seats are already removed, the previous-previous owner replaced the originals and welded these in. I've cut out the seats and most of the bars they put in to hold the chairs. The engine ran for the previous owner but about 10 yrs ago when the water pump failed and he just parked it outback behind his house and left it. I've got a new water pump already and just waiting for a rebuild kit for the carb. Plans are to get it in working order first just to make sure the engine is good and mechanically it is "usable". Then I'll decide if I keep the engine and order an overdrive for it or replace the engine then get working on the body and everything else. My plan is for a fun exploration jeep for the desert and mountains here in NM and southern CO.
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Dec 31, 2019 04:09
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That is loving awesome.
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Dec 31, 2019 04:14
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That is an awesome Willys. I was going through some slides my Mum got scanned and found some of my Uncles old Jeep. It was used as a farm jeep in the 70s and early 80s as well as for offroading trips in rural South Island New Zealand. Not sure where it is now probably in the back of a barn somewhere on the farm. I love the little hard top on it.     
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Dec 31, 2019 06:48
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Those willys look great, and I’m reminded now that they had an off center spare tire. Does anyone make a bumper/tire carrier with the tire to one side, and a cargo tray on the other? I know there’s a million options for a rack above the spare, but something like this VVV seems way more useful and easier to access  
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Dec 31, 2019 16:07
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I would wager that if there's a reason most companies don't make something like that, it's because it would have a much lower limit on maximum tire size than a centered spare - and seemingly everyone with money to burn on Wranglers these days thinks 35s are small. I do agree that I'd rather have that to keep the center of gravity down. I want to get the cargo basket for my TJ's Rockhard bumper but it would be pretty much impossible for my wife to reach anything on it without a ladder.
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Dec 31, 2019 16:58
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Yeah I think the tire size is a problem but it would also require moving the brake lights since the spare and the rack would cover the stock placement. It’s a shame cause I’d love to have a small cargo basket like this for a cooler or whatever, and anything above the tire is just inconvenient.
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Dec 31, 2019 17:37
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Just put an Antirock on my TJ. Lot more hammering than I expected (the shaft is a surprisingly tight fit in the bushings) but so far so good. Anyone want some worn but very much usable quick disconnects for a TJ? Cost of shipping only, I'll take some pics tomorrow if anyone can use them.
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Jan 3, 2020 04:52
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IOwnCalculus posted:Just put an Antirock on my TJ. Lot more hammering than I expected (the shaft is a surprisingly tight fit in the bushings) but so far so good. I could really use replacements after my Baja run, but mine are still serviceable. If nobody else speaks up that doesn't already have disconnects I'll send you some cash.
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Jan 3, 2020 05:09
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Sold my TJ the other day to an old dude that is going to use it as a more comfortable replacement for his atv for getting to his fishing spots  Took the JK out for a play in the dirt at the closest "urban" offroading spot near me too. I need to get it out in some proper trails soon. The previous owner put pretty much a full aev setup on it with the bumpers and lift. From how clean it is I don't think he ever really wheeled it. All I'm planning on doing in the near term is a uhf/vhf and probably a hilift mount on the tire carrier.it currently has an internal rollbar mount for it but I'm not really a fan of having to extract the hilift from the trunk if it needs to be used.   
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Jan 3, 2020 16:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:Just put an Antirock on my TJ. Lot more hammering than I expected (the shaft is a surprisingly tight fit in the bushings) but so far so good. Part of me wants these for my TJ, and we are in the same city so no shipping needed. But I wheel more often in my JK and I feel like Astonishing Wang deserves them more than me 
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Jan 4, 2020 07:29
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If you don't have a pair take em! Mine still work fine, they're just a little loosy-goosy.
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Jan 4, 2020 16:19
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Sway bar disconnects have to be the best tj bang for the buck upgrade there is.
mashed fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jan 4, 2020 18:57
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I have quite a few things that I need to address when I get back to Baja and my Jeep on Monday: I smashed the oil pan with the front axle truss again, so I need to pull off the oil pan and the con-rod support girdle and bang them back to straight. I'm also going to double check the bumpstops and cut some height off of the truss so it won't do it again, as well as a skid/crossmember across the frame rails below the forward oil pan to physically prevent the smashing. The nutserts that I tried to replace on the frame didn't work very well at all, so I'm going to cut them all out and just through-bolt the cross-member with some 1/2" bolts that I'll weld flags onto so installation and removal is easy. I've decided that if I screwed up 3 out of 6 nutserts then it's not worth it for ME to try again. Simple is better when you aren't a good mechanic I think. My rear end needs bumpstops - I'm still thinking of adding air or hydraulic bumps but for now I'm going to install the plastic extensions that are already sitting in the shed waiting. I also need limiting straps - anyone have a cheap option? even something that isn't traditionally used but works in a pinch? I have a 6' strip of seatbelt  The radio vibrated it's plastic bracket into 3 pieces and would cut out on every bump, restarting itself. A piece of paper wadded up and crammed into a gap kept it working for most of the trip. I'm going to install a new bracket and add a support for the body of the radio. Apparently the OEM radio had a support bracket. Half of my dash lights have burned out in the last 7 years, so I ordered a new pack of LEDs. While the gauge cluster is out I'm going to make a vinyl sticker for the speedo that will show kilometers inside of the mph. My windshield sprayer failed on day one so I bought a new pump. The last one lasted about 7 years, which is respectable for a $15 pump I think. I may add a rear sprayer to splash my friends on the trail. I bought a few new bolts for trail spares and to replace the one control arm bolt that vibrated loose. Grade 8 stuff is expensive - about $7 for a 9/16" x 4" bolt and nylock nut. I was thinking "why doesn't anyone make a bolt kit for TJs?". Because it would cost about a million dollars is the answer I think. I bought new heavy duty extended sway bar brackets from RuffStuff to replace the stock brackets, one of which snapped off from stresses on the last trip. There was a partial crack from sometime in the past, it was obvious from the rust on a portion of the broken piece. I also bought a TJ LP dana 30 with carrier and gears for $25. I'm going to remove the inner Cs in case I need to replace the Cs on my HP30 at some point in the future due to the balljoint bores being worn out. I bought it after I got the heavy duty sway bar mounts, or I could've just used the set from this axle and saved $30. My buddy needs the spider gears too, so $25 seemed like a fair buy. I was really hoping it would come with outer knuckles and brake stuff so I'd have some spares, but the price was too good for that. It came with a stock diff cover so I might use that to build up a low profile skid plate. I still have a small amount of rubbing from the track bar on my 3/8" thick cover. Bump stops will probably prevent that once they're dialed in but an OEM cover would prevent it entirely. I ordered 2 new rear driveshafts from Tatton's driveshafts in Utah. When I called two weeks ago to order he told me there'd be NO PROBLEM getting them to me before this coming Monday when I leave for Baja. Guess what?!?!! He's welding them today and they should be in the mail by Monday. loving annoying. I've bought 3 shafts from him in the past and they've all come quickly. I know it was the holidays but don't tell me they'll be there if it's not going to be possible. Luckily my spare shaft still has some life in it, I'll just need to rebuild it now instead of later. I've been in San Diego without my jeep for 3 weeks so I've just been ruminating about it. Hopefully this isn't annoying I also made a sticker for the hood - The Lost Banana 
Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jan 4, 2020 19:22
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Nice choice on the banana.  My TJ is leaking... Something. Might be multiple somethings. I think my RTV thoughts and prayers on the front pan gasket bolts isn't going to hold up. Those bolt holes are blind, right? I might just try ramming the next size up tap in there and see if I can make it stick. Input shaft on the power steering box is wet, not sure if it's power steering fluid or if it's coolant that is also apparently leaking from somewhere. Old quick disconnects:   The red bushings are all relatively new and have maybe a couple thousand miles on them. The black ones are probably at least ten years old, maybe older. The holes for the pins (and the pins themselves) are definitely a bit worn so there's still some play even with the pins in.
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Jan 4, 2020 19:45
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Try boltdepot.com for the bolts. I'm seeing 2.30ea for 9/16x4 grade 8 coarse and 3.17 for fine thread, and 33 cents for coarse nylocks and 41 for the fine thread, and those are qty 1 prices.
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Jan 4, 2020 21:50
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kastein posted:Try boltdepot.com for the bolts. I'm seeing 2.30ea for 9/16x4 grade 8 coarse and 3.17 for fine thread, and 33 cents for coarse nylocks and 41 for the fine thread, and those are qty 1 prices. I'll do that, thanks! I've been going to the local bolt supple store in San Diego - Marshalls industrial hardware I think it's called. It's like harbor freight 2.0 in terms of how fun it is to shop at.
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Jan 4, 2020 22:21
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Boltdepot is actually my local store like that, they're about an hour and a half away and only 30 minutes or so from the closest Crown Automotive warehouse outlet (which is only allowed to ship to Mass sadly.) If I order before like 2pm and ask for ground shipping, it arrives the next day 
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Jan 4, 2020 22:29
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Tindjin posted:Here is my submission for group membership. It is the third jeep that I have owned and by far the oldest. Awesome Jeep! I've got a CJ-7 that's intended for similar desert & mountain exploration, the main problem being it's an awful lot of freeway driving to get from my place to the explorable desert / mountains! What part of NM are you in? I'm down in Albuquerque.
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Jan 6, 2020 18:27
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I feel like an idiot for asking this since it feels like such a basic thing but I'm not sure how to top off my XJ's coolant. I know I have to wait for the engine to be cold, but do I fill from the radiator cap or the overflow reservoir? And how do I know when I've put in enough? I do plan to do a proper flush when I have more time. I just need to do this as a holdover for a few days.
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Jan 7, 2020 16:42
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Overflow - there's markings on the side to indicate Max/Min. When it's cold, fill to the Max line. I like to also make sure (when cold) that the radiator is actually topped up, but it'd be rare for it not to be when the overflow has anything in it (unless, of course, you just added what the overflow has in it). Not a dumb question, lots of cars are different and it's never bad to ask.
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Jan 7, 2020 16:54
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Spent 15 minutes sitting in the Whataburger parking lot yesterday because if I drive a couple miles, then park for maybe 15 minutes, the CJ-7 sometimes vapor-locks. I've been meaning to replace that weird old computer+vacuum controlled carb with an aftermarket Weber as my next project/update, but maybe I ought to switch to an electric pump and re-route the fuel lines away from the block first?
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Jan 10, 2020 17:04
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I'd try it if I were you.
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Jan 10, 2020 20:33
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Krakkles posted:New NSS installed, code returned. I saw some posts mentioning that it may simply be adjustment of the NSS, and so attempted the suggested method from forums (put it reverse, move the NSS until the lights go off, repeat the other direction, then put it in the middle of that range), and ... my reverse lights never went off. So ... I don't know what that means.  T1, T3, and T42 all show nominal battery voltage when the proper gear is selected. Reverse shows ~1v lower (10.85). Could this be the switch, or is this a burgeoning break in the wire, or am I totally on the wrong track?
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Jan 12, 2020 02:49
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That's probably just because the reverse lamps are pretty bright and draw more current which is pulling the circuit voltage down a little. I can't guarantee that's not your issue but I would be surprised if it is.
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Jan 12, 2020 05:23
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I mean, I wasn't looking forward to trying to find a (especially partial) wire break behind the dash, so that's probably good news. It lands me back at the one last answer that I found on googling, though, which is drive it for awhile and just see if it goes away.
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Jan 12, 2020 05:35
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Apologies for the cussing, but seriously what god drat engineer decided that this needed to happen? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxCezv2MiLg What in the name of god type of tool do I need to get this bolt out? Am I retarded?
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Jan 13, 2020 22:25
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McDeth posted:Apologies for the cussing, but seriously what god drat engineer decided that this needed to happen? Flex head ratcheting box wrench. https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-M...31WPH5ABBEHAAAS Or Shallow depth socket and swivel. Edit: This is my most favorite video so far this month. You have the perfect way of describing and demonstrating the issue. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Jan 13, 2020 |
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Jan 13, 2020 22:27
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EVERYWHERE 
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Looks like a universal joint socket extension could get that done (if the socket is shallow enough)
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Jan 13, 2020 22:34
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Yep, a U-joint is the only way to get those bolts torqued down on my TJ, especially with the under-seat box added.
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Jan 13, 2020 22:49
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McDeth posted:Apologies for the cussing, but seriously what god drat engineer decided that this needed to happen? meatpimp posted:Edit: This is my most favorite video so far this month. You have the perfect way of describing and demonstrating the issue. I cannot agree with this enough. That was a perfect description of exactly how I feel in situations like that.
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Jan 13, 2020 23:51
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This was my ARB air locker's internal line. Ring gear gave it a kiss. Carriers out and bearing's off to replace the seal housing then time to slam it all back together.
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Jan 14, 2020 05:16
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@Drunk Beekeeper, do you want those discos? Also, doing a run through Box Canyon on Saturday.
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Jan 14, 2020 05:39
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McDeth posted:Apologies for the cussing, but seriously what god drat engineer decided that this needed to happen? I'm lolling IRL, goddamn. Other than meatpimp's flex head ratcheting box wrench suggestion, is there any function to the first "This fukken poo poo" metal tab (as opposed to the second "fukken poo poo" lip on the right side) and can you just cut/grind that off and use a normal ratcheting box wrench on it?
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Jan 14, 2020 05:50
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Some kind of regulation might require a tab so the seat can't slide off the rail? There is a similar, though better designed, bit on the rails in my volvo. But the side shields.....
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Jan 14, 2020 05:59
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Friend of mine suggested these as the solution. https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-metric-offset-box-wrench-set-32042.html
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Jan 14, 2020 13:21
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Buy yourself a set of these. They are lifesavers for failures in engineering like that.
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Jan 14, 2020 19:36
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builds character posted:Friend of mine suggested these as the solution. https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-metric-offset-box-wrench-set-32042.html I have a set of these, admittedly from more than a few years ago. When they're needed they're nice but they are absolutely bottom tier HF quality. Those sockets ThinkFear posted would be much better and I'm adding them to my wishlist.
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Jan 14, 2020 20:19
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Why not both! Offset wrenches are really useful in some specific scenarios, and those nano-impacts are really trick.
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Jan 15, 2020 02:56
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