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Alright I'm pressing buttons on pcpartpicker and it seems like getting a new case + motherboard may be the way to go. For instance if I swap out the mobo and case it says no compatibility issues. Whereas just picking through the different mobo options if that's all I change seems like everything under $250 has the BIOS/sky/caby lake/whatever issue. Whereas changing the mobo and case seems like it would be less than $200. I'm thinking maybe I do this type of approach and switch to a case that's easier to find parts for in the future? PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kDfYL2 CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.99 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B250 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($101.44 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($107.99 @ Adorama) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 Video Card ($194.85 @ Amazon) Case: Thermaltake Core G3 ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair SF 450 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($97.92 @ Newegg) Here's the caby lake problem build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Rm7c4n awesomeolion fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Jan 24, 2020 |
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Jan 24, 2020 19:46
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Hey everyone, decided it was finally time for an upgrade from the computer I built 7 years ago. Basically tossing everything but the case, the good ol hyper 212 evo, and my ssd. My current graphics card doesn't support freesync so I never bothered picking up a new monitor, figured that it was a good time to do that as well. If monitor searching goes in that thread, you can ignore that part. My current target is to be able to play monster hunter and the new upcoming doom in 1440p with 60fps. Not very interested in 4k. I do have a micro center near me, so some of the parts are probably going to be a bit cheaper there, but I didn't see an appealing motherboard combo for the 3600. There were some good deals for the 2700x though. Would that be worth considering? E: actually, as soon as I posted this I took a look at what’s actually in my computer and realized that I’m running only 8gb of ddr3-1600 ram, I’m thinking that I might just stick to 1080p for now, upgrade my cpu/motherboard/ram first and buy the video card and monitor later if I need it. Does that sound reasonable? Current gpu is a 970 PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($81.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB GAMING OC 3X Video Card ($499.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: *Corsair TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($73.98 @ Newegg) Monitor: Acer XV272U Pbmiiprzx 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor ($329.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1280.93 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-24 13:49 EST-0500 Argona fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Jan 24, 2020 |
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Jan 24, 2020 19:52
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Take two of my zero-budget build, now in new mATX Flavor! Link to original attempt: After that one review of all the B450s came out around Thanksgiving I sort of wrote off mATX but I'm not going to be doing anything complex or overclocky with it (and my budget is poo poo) so there's probably still some value in the form factor for my needs? PC Part Picker List Motherboard: ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.98 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($72.98 @ Amazon) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon) Case: Thermaltake Versa H17 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($49.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair CX (2017) 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Amazon) Total: $307.93 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-24 13:31 EST-0500 Other Components: AMD 1600AF: $85 (the one on PC Part Picker is the AM version so I didn't put it on the part list) Sabrent Rocket 512GB NVMe SSD (Boot) I'll obviously need a GPU of some sort but I have an older-than-dirt video card* that I can slot to get it booting until I figure this part out. *: A Radeon HD 7350. I literally don't remember when I got it but it was working when I pulled it out of an ancient C2D I finally got around to stripping and taking to Best Busy late last year. I just hope it has W10 drivers?  E: I know the Fractals are generally better cases, I'm looking at their mATX offerings, might update. E2: The Fractal Core 1000/1100 top-mount the PSU  E3: The Define Mini C might be needs-suiting? Looks like it'll be back in-stock around the 28th so that's not the end of the world? Schadenboner fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Jan 24, 2020 |
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Jan 24, 2020 19:57
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Argona posted:I do have a micro center near me, so some of the parts are probably going to be a bit cheaper there, but I didn't see an appealing motherboard combo for the 3600. FYI, while Micro Center lists suggested combos, they’ll give the combo discount for any mobo/CPU combo, so you can just pick what you want and you’ll still get the discount.
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Jan 24, 2020 20:14
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Argona posted:Basically tossing everything but the case, the good ol hyper 212 evo An old-model hyper 212 doesn't have AM4 mounting support unfortunately. They made a cheap upgrade bracket but those are long out of stock. Schadenboner posted:I'll obviously need a GPU of some sort but I have an older-than-dirt video card* that I can slot to get it booting until I figure this part out. Yep. They even did a special release of their new-in-2016 control panel for old cards (that beta Crimson edition there). Schadenboner posted:E3: The Define Mini C might be needs-suiting? Looks like it'll be back in-stock around the 28th so that's not the end of the world? The define mini C is substantially better than the versa H17, the versa H15 is the way to go from thermaltake. Though since you're not gaming at all the H17 might not be terrible -- the strike against it is terrible airflow which isn't as bit a deal for you.
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Jan 24, 2020 20:23
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Stormgale posted:Any of them will probably work fine as the mesh isn't really blocking airflow in the same way a rad is. You don't need an adapter to mount 140mm fans in the front, right? I'm thinking I'll get two Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM.
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Jan 24, 2020 20:27
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Quick question: I have an old Windows 7 key that was used to upgrade to 10 a few years ago. Will Windows give me trouble if I try a USB install of 10 using that 7 key on the new system, or am I better off just buying a 10 key?
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Jan 24, 2020 20:58
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Fifteen of Many posted:Quick question: I have an old Windows 7 key that was used to upgrade to 10 a few years ago. Will Windows give me trouble if I try a USB install of 10 using that 7 key on the new system, or am I better off just buying a 10 key? I just did exactly that a couple months ago and had no issues whatsoever.
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Jan 24, 2020 21:01
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Klyith posted:An old-model hyper 212 doesn't have AM4 mounting support unfortunately. They made a cheap upgrade bracket but those are long out of stock. I'll look at the H15, most of the mATX B450s seem to only have two 4-pin fan headers so with Y-cables that's 4 fans which, since I'm not exactly digging for buttcoin, should be more than enough for moving air. Thank you!
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Jan 24, 2020 21:16
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So mATX B450 motherboards seem kinda scarce on Amazon, the previously-recommended ASRock B450M PRO4 is quoting a month for delivery (as is the WiFi version of same). Is there a reason to not go with an MSI B450M PRO-VDH MAX (it hits the "cheap, in-stock on Amazon, mATX" triple-point)? It seems like with AM4 one of the manufacturers has taken it in turn to carry the idiot ball for each of the chipsets and I can never remember which one was "the bad one" for B450 (this is separate from the Ryzen 3xxx BIOS fiascoes, my understanding is that none of the manufacturers exactly covered themselves with glory on that one).
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Jan 24, 2020 21:25
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Schadenboner posted:I'll look at the H15, most of the mATX B450s seem to only have two 4-pin fan headers so with Y-cables that's 4 fans which, since I'm not exactly digging for buttcoin, should be more than enough for moving air. With that case it's less about fans and that the front is mostly solid, so there's little intake. A monolith looks nice, but if there's no mesh, or other holes, you don't get much airflow.
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Jan 24, 2020 21:28
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It looks to be a good board for budget builds. It probably won't handle a $700 processor well but something like a 1600AF will be perfectly fine.
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Jan 24, 2020 21:28
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So here's where we're at:
PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($119.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B450M PRO-VDH MAX Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($79.98 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($72.98 @ Amazon) Storage: Sabrent Rocket 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Diamond Radeon HD 5450 1 GB Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Thermaltake Versa H15 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($53.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair CX (2017) 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Amazon) Total: $436.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-24 16:08 EST-0500 The GPU I'll actually be using is an AMD reference edition of the HD 7350 (or whatever it's called when AMD is the manufacturer), the place-holder here is just some random 5450 which is apparently what the 7350 got renamed to. Thanks for the link to the W10 driver! Upgrade Path:
Schadenboner fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Jan 24, 2020 |
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Jan 24, 2020 22:25
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Looking for some advice, I live in the US, near a Microcenter, I'm looking to build a low-to-midrange gaming desktop. My ideal system would be able to run Steep at not necessarily highest settings, but pleasant ones. My budget is <$1000, only because I don't want to spend too much on what I consider a starter PC. I want to treat this as dipping my toe in the water of pc building, so I've chosen less than state-of-the-art parts. If something goes wrong, I don't want to have wasted $1500 on the world's best GPU. (I can always upgrade in the future.) OP mentions talking about my monitor, which would be an old one I have laying around, probably buying a new one after this build. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: *AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus PRIME X570-P ATX AM4 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($72.98 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Blue 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Asus Radeon RX 570 4 GB ROG STRIX Video Card ($139.99 @ Amazon) Case: Rosewill RISE Glow ATX Full Tower Case ($87.06 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GM 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($89.94 @ ModMyMods) Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($49.88 @ Other World Computing) Total: $879.82 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Optical drive is so I can watch movies from the library, which I use regularly. My main worry is the GPU I picked. Is it performant enough for what I want? Is it the best card for that price range?
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Jan 24, 2020 22:36
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Schadenboner posted:So here's where we're at: The 1600AF *is* essentially a 2600 and not worth the extra $35, especially in a budget build. https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3547-amd-r5-1600-af-cpu-review-best-cpu-under-100
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Jan 24, 2020 22:36
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Thom P. Tiers posted:The 1600AF is essentially a 2600 and not worth the extra $35, especially in a budget build. So stick with the 1600AF (the 12nm process one) rather than 2600?
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Jan 24, 2020 22:37
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Schadenboner posted:So stick with the 1600AF (the 12nm process one) rather than 2600? Definitely.
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Jan 24, 2020 22:53
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awesomeolion posted:Alright I'm pressing buttons on pcpartpicker and it seems like getting a new case + motherboard may be the way to go. For instance if I swap out the mobo and case it says no compatibility issues. Whereas just picking through the different mobo options if that's all I change seems like everything under $250 has the BIOS/sky/caby lake/whatever issue. Whereas changing the mobo and case seems like it would be less than $200. I'm thinking maybe I do this type of approach and switch to a case that's easier to find parts for in the future? If you're tight on money and just wanna keep what you have now, it'll be a good option. The other alternative would be to seek out a new CPU and motherboard instead like the Ryzen 2600 + any of the B450 mini ITX boards, if you want to spend your money towards something that gets you a performance boost in modern titles even if it is a bit more expensive. NuclearEagleFox!!! posted:Looking for some advice, I wouldn't buy an RX 570 new in 2020, no. Here's an alternate part list: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: *AMD Ryzen 5 1600 (14nm) 3.2 GHz 6-Core Processor ($114.69 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.98 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($72.98 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Blue 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 Super 6 GB OC Video Card ($239.99 @ Amazon) Case: Corsair 110R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G1+ 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($96.98 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($49.88 @ Other World Computing) Total: $819.48 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-24 17:00 EST-0500 The 1600 is only $80 at Microcenter, but make sure you look for one with AF instead of AE in the product code, as these are just rebinned 2600s. If you can't find one, I'd probably spend the extra $40 on a 2600x for 60 fps gaming. Demostrs fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Jan 24, 2020 |
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Jan 24, 2020 23:06
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Demostrs posted:If you're tight on money and just wanna keep what you have now, it'll be a good option. The other alternative would be to seek out a new CPU and motherboard instead like the Ryzen 2600 + any of the B450 mini ITX boards, if you want to spend your money towards something that gets you a performance boost in modern titles even if it is a bit more expensive. Thanks a lot! A little upgrade along the way sounds like a good plan, I will plug it into parts picker and see what I can order from here  I appreciate all the help!
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Jan 24, 2020 23:10
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Alright here's what I'm thinking. I was able to find the CPU and mobo on Gmarket for 289,140krw total. I'm curious about these warnings: quote:Note:The CRYORIG C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler may require a separately available mounting adapter to fit the Gigabyte B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($119.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($107.99 @ Adorama) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 Video Card ($194.85 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design Node 202 HTPC Case ($79.98 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair SF 450 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($97.92 @ Newegg)
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Jan 25, 2020 00:40
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Looking for a sanity check on the build below - mostly the memory which I'm not sure about. This will be replacing a PC put together 6 years ago, and primarily be used for gaming and video editing. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($324.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE ATX AM4 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($162.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($168.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB GAMING OC 3X Video Card ($499.99 @ Newegg) Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1501.93 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-24 18:50 EST-0500
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Jan 25, 2020 01:05
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well excuse me, princess!
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Need some goon advice. I'm new when it comes to building PCs and am interested in a budget build (~$500 max but hoping for lower) for everyday use, light to medium 1080p gaming, photo editing, and possibly light video editing. Nothing serious, but something I can have a little fun with besides my everyday work tasks. I think Vermintide 2 is the most modern game I play regularly. What I currently own: Dell Optiplex 7010 Mini Tower with - OS: Windows 10 - CPU: Intel i5 3570 @ 3.4GHz - RAM: 1x8GB RAM - Motherboard: Dell 0KRC95 Motherboard - Storage: 500GB 7200RPM HDD I also have (separate from PC): PSU: Cougar GX-S 750W PSU GPU: PNY GTX 1070 I can link a PC Part Picker list but there I can't even find most of the specific parts that are included in the Optiplex, so I'm not sure how helpful it'd be. I'm wondering is it worth it to build off the base of the Optiplex and make some Frankenstein build or should I try to sell it off and start from scratch? If I do upgrade the Optiplex, what are my options? From what I can tell, the Dell guidebook claims 16gb is the maximum amount of RAM supported, and that a 1TB HDD or 128GB SSD would be the upper end of what I could put in it. Is that accurate? I was hoping to get around a 250GB SSD and a 2TB HDD. Sorry for the newbie questions, thanks in advance. FishBowlRobot fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Jan 25, 2020 |
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Jan 25, 2020 01:52
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awesomeolion posted:Alright here's what I'm thinking. I was able to find the CPU and mobo on Gmarket for 289,140krw total. The Cryorig C7 didn't originally come with AM4 mounting, and didn't make a product name change so pcpartspicker can't be sure you'll get one that works. Also, here is a page which suggests the scythe big shuriken 2 as the best cooler for a Node 202. The 2 isn't sold anymore, but the scythe big shuriken 3 is the same thing with a fatter fan. Replace the fan it uses with a 120x15mm fan and it fits -- all for less than the stupid-expensive $100 that cryorig cooler is going for. FishBowlRobot posted:I'm wondering is it worth it to build off the base of the Optiplex and make some Frankenstein build or should I try to sell it off and start from scratch? Upgrading the optiplex with more ram and a SSD is fine. Putting a new motherboard into it is a strict no-go, dell power supplies are often not standard ATX. (Or putting the new power supply into the dell motherboard.) It should support any size of SATA SSD or hard drive just fine (but no m.2 or nvme of course). It uses DDR3 memory which is still fairly cheap, 16GB for $60. Upgrades like that will make it feel much nicer for desktop apps. For gaming, if you're going to stick with old games using an old CPU may not matter. But for anything new AAA it's kinda done for. $500 and that 1070 video card could build a much better system. Klyith fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Jan 25, 2020 |
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Jan 25, 2020 04:33
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Klyith posted:The Cryorig C7 didn't originally come with AM4 mounting, and didn't make a product name change so pcpartspicker can't be sure you'll get one that works. If awesomeolion don't want to spend money on a new cooler, I'd first contact Cryorig to see if they'll send you the AM4 mounting bracket since you already own it. In the meantime, the stock Wraith Stealth cooler should fit in the Node 202 while you wait for a bracket/decide if you even want to carry over your old cooler.
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Jan 25, 2020 06:21
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KracKiwi posted:Looking for a sanity check on the build below - mostly the memory which I'm not sure about. This will be replacing a PC put together 6 years ago, and primarily be used for gaming and video editing. Some thoughts: -Your motherboard is kinda overkill, but it does have some things that may or may not be useful to you in the future (ie: a front USB-C connector, which the case I swapped in later would use) -No point in getting RGB RAM in a case with no side panel, if that's your concern -Samsung SSDs are overpriced compared to the competition at this point -I would prefer an EVGA over a Gigabyte card considering they're the same price -The 200R is a very outdated case -Might as well get a similar PSU for cheaper PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($324.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE ATX AM4 Motherboard ($179.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Patriot Viper 4 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($129.99 @ Amazon) Storage: HP EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($129.94 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB XC ULTRA GAMING Video Card ($499.99 @ Newegg) Case: NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.98 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G1+ 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($96.98 @ Newegg) Total: $1431.86 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-25 00:58 EST-0500
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Jan 25, 2020 07:03
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Hullo thread. I have an Intel Core i5 6600K that I'm perfectly happy with, sitting in a Gigabyte B150M-D3H that I was perfectly happy with until the system started powering off for no reason. I wanted to just replace the motherboard, but they don't make motherboards compatible with my CPU any more. So I guess I need to buy a new CPU too. What's out there these days that would be about as good as my 6600K? I honestly don't give a rat's arse about higher performance than that, since that CPU was serving perfectly well. I'm in Australia. My CPU cost me about $350AUD at the time, so I guess that's about my budget this time (I mean, ideally I'd like to pay less for the same performance as a four-year-old CPU, but hey). I mean, I guess if someone happens to have a link to where I can buy a mobo that'll work with my CPU and doesn't cost >$400AUD then I wouldn't turn that down either, but I'm realistic about my chances.
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Jan 25, 2020 07:50
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Any suggestions on a wifi card or dongle for desktop? I'm going to be spending a month at my parents, and I'll probably be camping two floors up from the router.
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Jan 25, 2020 07:52
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Hyperlynx posted:Hullo thread. If your case can fit an ATX sized motherboard, there was one option that I saw on PCPartpicker: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/zN66Mp/gigabyte-ga-h110-d3a-atx-lga1151-motherboard-ga-h110-d3a Otherwise, I'd just aim for this if you're not gaming at 144hz: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($196.90 @ Newegg Australia) Motherboard: ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($123.20 @ Newegg Australia) Total: $320.10 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-25 17:59 AEDT+1100
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Jan 25, 2020 08:00
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Demostrs posted:If your case can fit an ATX sized motherboard, there was one option that I saw on PCPartpicker: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/zN66Mp/gigabyte-ga-h110-d3a-atx-lga1151-motherboard-ga-h110-d3a Thank you! I'm currently waffling between actually upgrading and grabbing the AMD. And nice find with that Gigabyte board that fits the old CPU! I really wasn't expecting anything to come of that. It would fit, but I don't think it'll work for me because I have a PCIe M2 card (nvme? ssd? I'm not entirely up on the terminology, but it's not SATA as far as I know, and that board's M2 slot seems to be SATA). My bad for not mentioning that, though I didn't really expect to get any results on that front Thanks again for the help! e: wow, that part picker site is excellent! I'm punching in requirements and compatible chipsets now, and it's turning up a lot of stuff. Neat. Hyperlynx fucked around with this message at 10:02 on Jan 25, 2020 |
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Jan 25, 2020 09:58
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Hyperlynx posted:Thank you! No problem, but in case you were considering "upgrading" as getting an Intel processor instead of an AMD one, I'd actually go with a 3600 + MSi MAX motherboard for a performance upgrade. They'll come with the compatible BIOS for it and meet the 8-thread minimum you should have for a gaming PC nowadays. It probably won't feel much different from a 2600 build, for the record, but it will have somewhat longer legs with XSX/PS5 titles and gives you more freedom to buy a high refresh panel in the future. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($289.00 @ Shopping Express) Motherboard: MSI B450M MORTAR MAX Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($148.00 @ Shopping Express) Total: $437.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-25 20:06 AEDT+1100
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Jan 25, 2020 10:08
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Over the last few weeks, I've been doing some research into building a PC in the next month or two. Pretty settled on building around an AMD processor + Nvidia 2080 Super. I'm looking for a quiet and simple case that's built around containing the noise. Any recommendations? How is the reputation of the "be quiet!" brand? And do some cases already come with the fans? What is the benefit of having an option to invert the motherboard installation as seen in the pictures here with the graphics card installed on top? https://www.bequiet.com/en/case/1517 Busy Bee fucked around with this message at 11:41 on Jan 25, 2020 |
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Jan 25, 2020 11:29
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So I was going to install the Mugen 5 rev b on my X570 Aorus Elite and I can't make the support brackets for it work. The ones that came with the motherboard have a chunk of plastic getting in the way so the screw comes in diagonally. I'm probably missing something here but I don't know what it is: e: I am dumb. I should just stop and think about how the pieces fit together instead of panicking because they might not be compatible 
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Jan 25, 2020 13:05
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Hyperlynx posted:Hullo thread. Are you sure it is the motherboard and not the PSU? Random shutdowns can be attributed to either one, but the PSU is cheaper and easier to replace. And even if it is the motherboard, a 6600k era PSU is getting up there in years so if you are swapping the motherboard you would probably be wise to swap the PSU with it anyway.
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Jan 25, 2020 13:19
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All my new parts are now on the way. Went for the B450 Pro Carbon AC, Ryzen 5 3600, 16GB of RAM at 3200mhz, a 1660 Super and my first SSD. Now I'm terrified power will go out during the BIOS update required for Ryzen 5 compat, we get a few power failures a year. Should probably get a PSU too.
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Jan 25, 2020 14:35
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Busy Bee posted:Over the last few weeks, I've been doing some research into building a PC in the next month or two. Pretty settled on building around an AMD processor + Nvidia 2080 Super. Are you planning on having hard drives in your build, or just SSD's? If you don't have hard drives, the somewhat counter-intuitive way to get low noise is to buy a case with good airflow (mesh front panel, etc) and fit as many and as big fans as you can. Having big fans with little airflow restrictions lets you move a lot of air at very low RPM, which ends up being quieter than making slow fans work hard inside a closed-off case. GamersNexus has done quite a bit of testing on this if you're interested.
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Jan 25, 2020 14:36
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Klyith posted:dell power supplies are often not standard ATX. (Or putting the new power supply into the dell motherboard.) I read this all the time, but is this really still true? I have Precision T3500 workstations that have standard pinouts... they're not exactly new. The mounting for the PSU isn't standard size (a bit larger), but the cables and pinouts are.
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Jan 25, 2020 14:49
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I'm looking to upgrade my PC, the focus is programming / gaming, so getting the most out of the processor and memory. Based on previous feedback, does this look alright? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core Processor ($492.89 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($179.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Corsair 550D ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00) Power Supply: Corsair CXM 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) I don't change parts a lot or mess with OC, so I'm aiming for something that's pretty good in stock config, can last a couple years with only minor changes. If I have some budget left over I might replace the case, any good recommendations for simple flat designs with good cable management and air cooling? It gets pretty hot in the summer here so I figure I want as much airflow for the CPU/GPU as possible.
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Jan 25, 2020 15:47
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HalloKitty posted:I read this all the time, but is this really still true? I have Precision T3500 workstations that have standard pinouts... they're not exactly new. The mounting for the PSU isn't standard size (a bit larger), but the cables and pinouts are. Yeah that has changed and they don't do it these days, but FishBowlRobot's dell is from back when that was a thing. If your workstations are also that old I can only guess that workstations didn't do the same thing as the consumer desktops. And even now that they're using standard ATX pin layouts there are still size issues, where their generic desktops use extremely short depth supplies. But in more general terms it's never worth frankensteining a dell or other beige box system because the case, the power supply, and the motherboard are crap even if they are standard ATX. Salvaging good parts from them yes, anything more no. Unless the idea is to build a monster system inside a generic dell case as a joke.
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Jan 25, 2020 15:53
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TheFluff posted:Are you planning on having hard drives in your build, or just SSD's? If you don't have hard drives, the somewhat counter-intuitive way to get low noise is to buy a case with good airflow (mesh front panel, etc) and fit as many and as big fans as you can. Having big fans with little airflow restrictions lets you move a lot of air at very low RPM, which ends up being quieter than making slow fans work hard inside a closed-off case. GamersNexus has done quite a bit of testing on this if you're interested. Just SSD's. How does have regular hard drives inhibit having a case with good airflow?
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Jan 25, 2020 16:07
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Busy Bee posted:Just SSD's. How does have regular hard drives inhibit having a case with good airflow? Sorry, that could have been clearer. If you only have SSD's, the fans are the only meaningful source of noise, so if you want a quiet system all you need is to minimize fan noise. However, if you also have hard drives, those make a good deal of noise on their own, so you might want a compromise instead where you sacrifice a bit of airflow (which probably means increased fan noise) in order to get less hard drive noise. I experienced this for myself - I have a BeQuiet Dark Base 700, which is a silence-focused case with a closed-off front panel and a bunch of sound dampening material, heavy panels etc. I originally had hard drives in it, but when I moved those to a NAS in another room, I experimented a bit and found that with those gone, I could get the system to run both quieter and cooler if I removed the front panel entirely and ran with just the dust filter in front and adjusted the fan curves a bit.
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Jan 25, 2020 16:21
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