|
Azhais posted:I've heard that having two monitors with wildly different resolutions running off one card is a serious performance hit. Is that accurate? If so is it viable getting a dirt cheap $30 pci-1x video card to drive a browsing only second monitor? Having different refresh rates is problematic on Nvidia.
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 22:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 09:14 |
|
|
phosdex posted:Having different refresh rates is problematic on Nvidia. The LG is 144hz and everything else I own is 60. Is the second card thing an option? I get conflicting reports from my google searches on how well Windows/Nvidia drivers react to such things e: I suppose the three options as I see it if the refresh rate thing is a problem are: 1) deal with it and skip the second monitor 2) get a $30 video card and use a monitor I have 3) get something cheap like https://www.amazon.com/Acer-KG241Q-Pbiip-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B07MG85X1M/ so I just have two 144hz monitors Azhais fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Jan 22, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 22:22
|
|
|
Azhais posted:The LG is 144hz and everything else I own is 60. Is the second card thing an option? I get conflicting reports from my google searches on how well Windows/Nvidia drivers react to such things I don't know if a second video card will work or not. I have a 144 and 60 too, I did only really notice the problem when gaming on the 144. For awhile I just disabled my second monitor before playing. Then I switched to running the second monitor off my laptop and using Synergy to control it from my main keyboard/mouse. Now I do the same, but I have a dedicated second mini computer instead of the laptop.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 22:40
|
|
|
FWIW I personally use a 120hz and 60hz monitor with an Nvidia card and haven't noticed any issues, I think it very much is a "mileage will vary" situation. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 22:54
|
|
|
Azhais posted:The LG is 144hz and everything else I own is 60. Is the second card thing an option? I get conflicting reports from my google searches on how well Windows/Nvidia drivers react to such things You can go way cheaper than $30 if it's only for browsing and poo poo. SA Mart, craigslist, offerup, letitgo...
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2020 02:42
|
|
|
Demostrs posted:FWIW I personally use a 120hz and 60hz monitor with an Nvidia card and haven't noticed any issues, I think it very much is a "mileage will vary" situation. Same, but 240 Hz and 59 Hz together.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2020 02:52
|
|
|
What's the pricing sweet spot these days for amd and intel cpus? This machine will not be used for gaming, but will probably be doing video encoding now and then. Also, what chipsets should I be looking at for each platform? FE: Oh, annnnnd, who's making the most reliable PSUs these days?
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2020 03:52
|
|
|
I think the ryzen 3600 is the sweet spot for either activity these days
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2020 04:21
|
|
|
I’ve got a desktop PC with some odd problem. It’s a custom build with a CM Elite 130 case, ASRock H97M-ITX/ac, 8GB RAM, i7-4770, GTX 970, and CX450m PSU. Works fine in normal operations but when the cat jumps on it, it reliably just freezes and loses video signal. Requires a hard restart. Reseated everything and tried to shock the PC with static, jostle it, place my body weight on it, can’t make it freeze myself - it’s gotta be the cat (who we are training to leave the big warm box alone.) Though I’d thought I’d throw out a post to see if anyone has ideas. Poorly grounded maybe? Do I need to get some of those paper washers? I really don’t love this case so I’m probably gonna scrap it for like, a H510i or something similar anyway, but until then if it seems like an easy fix I’ll try it. Macichne Leainig fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Jan 25, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2020 15:46
|
|
|
This sounds a lot like you haven't screwed your video connectors into the card, and its motion thats shaking it loose. I might be wrong, and this might be arcane and model-specific wizardry, but dang thats wierd
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2020 17:07
|
|
|
Saukkis posted:Pretty much the only option that I've seen, beside USB-C Power Delivery, are some emergency portable starters for cars. For example TELWIN Drive 9000 which has 19V output for laptops. But you would still need to find a suitable cable. Or this unnamed Amazon model, which comes with several laptop power cord adapters. You can also get a portable 110V power bank. They're big, heavy, and inefficient, and you have to carry your regular wall charger, but they're compatible with anything that connects to 110V AC.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2020 18:32
|
|
|
TheParadigm posted:This sounds a lot like you haven't screwed your video connectors into the card, and its motion thats shaking it loose. DisplayPort and DVI that’s definitely screwed in. Two screws on the backplate of the card and the latch on the PCI slot is definitely engaged.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2020 20:01
|
|
|
I have a probably dumb question that I never thought about until I was reconnecting all of my cables back into my PSU. I have a Seasonic Focus Plus Gold, which is layed out like this: I plugged the mobo and CPU power in to their spots, and the molex and SATA power into theirs. However, I plugged the GPU into the PCI-E spot on the row above the CPU one instead of right beside it. Is that bad? Good? No difference? I assume it doesn't make a difference but it got me thinking
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2020 22:12
|
|
|
It would only matter if your PSU had multiple 12v rails. Some ports would connect to one rail, others would connect to the other rail. If your computer drew too much for a single rail to handle you would move your plugs around to balance the load between them. Your PSU has a single 12v rail so it doesn't really matter which ones you plug them into.
|
|
#
?
Jan 27, 2020 22:25
|
|
|
I have a question that perhaps this thread can answer - I’m updating a couple of my Hacks to High Sierra and am wondering what the best used video card is in terms of compatibility. I have been using Nvidia, but since the web drivers aren’t being refreshed anymore(and they always seem a bit janky), I’m looking at AMD. I’d like to spend about $100-$150 for each card, and my primary objective is to keep the install as vanilla as possible, with OOB compatibility being preferred. I’ve been looking at RX480/580 8gb cards - are there any particular models that have issues or any models THAT JUST WORK? Or should I be looking at a different card? Any advice is appreciated.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2020 18:17
|
|
|
May want to post that question in the Hackintosh thread
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2020 18:49
|
|
|
Actuarial Fables posted:May want to post that question in the Hackintosh thread Aw, gently caress me, thats where I thought I was. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2020 18:57
|
|
|
Looking for a cheap, compact atx case for a hand me down collection of components. Currently only need room for a 750ti, 2.5" ssd, normal sized PSU and a stock cooler. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2020 20:26
|
|
|
LRADIKAL posted:Looking for a cheap, compact atx case for a hand me down collection of components. Currently only need room for a 750ti, 2.5" ssd, normal sized PSU and a stock cooler. Thanks! Have you tried the PC Building and Parts Picking Megathread?
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2020 21:38
|
|
|
Would an i7 4770 bottleneck a 1660 Ti in 1080p gaming? Don't really need a new GPU at this very moment, but just want to consider what options would be a worthwhile upgrade from a 1060 6GB to pair with a 4770 in a SFF gaming PC.
teagone fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Feb 2, 2020 |
|
#
?
Feb 2, 2020 03:52
|
|
|
teagone posted:Would an i7 4770 bottleneck a 1660 Ti in 1080p gaming? Don't really need a new GPU at this very moment, but just want to consider what options would be a worthwhile upgrade from a 1060 6GB to pair with a 4770 in a SFF gaming PC. CPU bottlenecking of a GPU is going to be dependent on the specific application; the 4770 is still a perfectly capable CPU, but you could certainly get a CPU bottleneck, in certain games, by decreasing graphical fidelity and thus lifting some of the load off of the GPU (think competitive CSGO players chasing hundreds of FPS.) I would surmise, though, that no, that CPU will be fine for midrange FHD gaming. On the other hand, the real question here is whether or not going from a 1060 to a 1660 Ti is a meaningful upgrade, and I would say that it's not. I mean it's about a performance tier above, but the 1060 is still perfectly capable for the level of gaming you're desiring, plus you say you don't even need an upgrade right now. Generally if you're doing an upgrade from a working part (and not replacing a failed one) you'd want to shoot for a few tiers higher than what you have now to make that additional expenditure a meaningful increase in performance (unless you're also going to repurpose the old card in another system.) That being said, for a suggested upgrade I'd go for a 2060 or better, because it's another tier or so higher than the 1660 Ti (although again, specific benchmarks would make the performance differences more clear.) In your case though, you have to narrow down your options based on space (since it's a SFF case) and power/heat, plus of course budget. You might very well find a good deal on say a base 2060 or 2070 since the "super" cards are the current stock, which would make more sense as a replacement for your older but perfectly functioning part.
|
|
#
?
Feb 3, 2020 04:22
|
|
|
Atomizer posted:CPU bottlenecking of a GPU is going to be dependent on the specific application; the 4770 is still a perfectly capable CPU, but you could certainly get a CPU bottleneck, in certain games, by decreasing graphical fidelity and thus lifting some of the load off of the GPU (think competitive CSGO players chasing hundreds of FPS.) I would surmise, though, that no, that CPU will be fine for midrange FHD gaming. Appreciate the insight, thanks! Yeah, I figure I'll likely just stick it out with the 1060 until the next generation of RTX cards hits. I'm in no rush to upgrade the GPU just yet. I'm more concerned with maximizing the upgrade path of my current setup tied to a socket 1150 board on the cheap, which is why I opted to get an i7 4770 and 16GB of RAM from a fellow goon (replacing an i5 4570 and 8GB of RAM). teagone fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Feb 3, 2020 |
|
#
?
Feb 3, 2020 23:14
|
|
|
Heelo. I'm looking for an USB hub that can be screwed under a table, has 6-8 3.0 ports that face sideways, not down. So far the best option I've found is this thing for 58 euros:  https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0761XP9PR/ref=sr_1_196 And also this for 64 euros:  https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0107Y1JYO/ref=pd_aw_sbs_107_11 But I don't like how big its wall wart is. And they also don't ship to Estonia. Any better/alternate options? I do not want to use double-sided tape. Do I even need to use the separate power supply if I'm going to plug M/KB, BT and Xbone controller dongles, audio interface and a external HDD into it? Sininu fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Feb 4, 2020 |
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2020 00:35
|
|
|
That looks like a very small power supply if you ask me, you're not going to find smaller. But for your usage, the HDD might pose a problem if you're trying to operate without additional power - but the only way to know for sure is trying it out.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2020 00:43
|
|
|
Lambert posted:That looks like a very small power supply if you ask me, you're not going to find smaller. But for your usage, the HDD might pose a problem if you're trying to operate without additional power - but the only way to know for sure is trying it out. It's small yeah, but I prefer the one on the first where I can place the bulk elsewhere so it won't block other sockets on the power strip.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2020 00:47
|
|
|
Sininu posted:It's small yeah, but I prefer the one on the first where I can place the bulk elsewhere so it won't block other sockets on the power strip.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2020 01:11
|
|
|
Flipperwaldt posted:Last year I made a number of one foot extension cords in order to never have to worry about that again. [Blinking intensifies]
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2020 01:25
|
|
|
Could someone please tell me, or better link me, some free utility that can tell me if my hard drive is failing? My PC is around 5.5 years old, and three times now over the past few weeks I've turned it on, it loads into Windows 10, I leave the room and come back to a blue ASUS bios screen, which exiting only takes me back to the bios screen, but after turning it of/on I'm back in Windows. Been getting some really odd hangups and freezes in games, in Windows itself, using Chrome etc to where this morning I click the windows button to try to restart it after everything seems to be freezing and it wouldn't let me get as far to hit the restart button, not even in task manager. I had to turn it off and on a couple times before Windows loaded. The only thing I've installed in that time was Warcraft 3 Reforged ( LMAO, already refunded). My PC hardware skills are limited but I'm sure I could put in a new hard drive if that's the problem but it'd be nice to know if that really is what's going on.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2020 22:42
|
|
|
PlushCow posted:Could someone please tell me, or better link me, some free utility that can tell me if my hard drive is failing? crystaldiskinfo Although at that age I'd be looking at RAM and the power supply as potential culprits too.
|
|
#
?
Feb 4, 2020 22:48
|
|
|
PlushCow posted:Could someone please tell me, or better link me, some free utility that can tell me if my hard drive is failing?
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2020 00:00
|
|
|
Geoj posted:crystaldiskinfo  I don't know what any of that means but the big yellow CAUTION!!! is probably a good clue  ufarn posted:diskovery. By the cool dude who made bvckup - which incidentally might also be relevant to you. And thank you too. I don't have much on this computer other than Steam games, and luckily I have made recent backups of most everything else.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2020 00:10
|
|
|
PlushCow posted:Thank you. I don't think my power supply is a wholly reliable one (Corsair CX600), I remember reading something to that effect long ago if I'm remembering correctly. Yeah that hard disk is on the way out, replace it as quickly as you can.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2020 00:21
|
|
|
PlushCow posted:Thank you. I don't think my power supply is a wholly reliable one (Corsair CX600), I remember reading something to that effect long ago if I'm remembering correctly. That particular series of seagate barracuda drives are pretty notorious for failing (I've had a couple fail myself). Pro tip: Crystal disk info can run in the background (hidden to a tray icon), start with windows, and be set to automatically re-scan all disks at regular intervals (I set it to 24 hours) so it will pop a notification with a warning if a disk shows a critical parameter fail out like that drive has done. Consider it an early warning system for disk failure, incredibly useful for the rare occasions when it goes off (because even though the SMART monitor is on every disk it is useless if nothing is reporting to you that there is a problem). Also you should take this opportunity to replace that drive with a SSD. Friends don't let friends boot from mechanical disks.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2020 01:13
|
|
|
PlushCow posted:Thank you. I don't think my power supply is a wholly reliable one (Corsair CX600), I remember reading something to that effect long ago if I'm remembering correctly. The "sectors" parameters are the issue here. That's a reasonably well-used HDD just judging by the power cycles and power-on hours (although far from the highest I've seen on some still-good drives.) Sometimes the platters' surfaces start to fail in certain spots such that they can't reliably store data; that's why you're getting those warnings, because the drive controller has started to detect issues and it's in various states of attempting to mitigate them (i.e. "pending" sectors is before they're remapped, at which point that value will decrement and the "reallocated" value will increment.) In short, this is a sign that the drive is no longer suitable for use, especially if it continues to detect more bad sectors (although it's certainly possible to just have a small amount of them on an otherwise stable drive.) Indiana_Krom posted:That particular series of seagate barracuda drives are pretty notorious for failing (I've had a couple fail myself). Pro tip: Crystal disk info can run in the background (hidden to a tray icon), start with windows, and be set to automatically re-scan all disks at regular intervals (I set it to 24 hours) so it will pop a notification with a warning if a disk shows a critical parameter fail out like that drive has done. Consider it an early warning system for disk failure, incredibly useful for the rare occasions when it goes off (because even though the SMART monitor is on every disk it is useless if nothing is reporting to you that there is a problem). Are you thinking of the ST3000DM001? That's the notorious Seagate drive from the past decade or so. I'm not aware of any specific issues with his ST1000DM003. Agreed on leaving CDI running on all machines, and only using SSDs for system drives though!
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2020 08:53
|
|
|
Atomizer posted:Are you thinking of the ST3000DM001? That's the notorious Seagate drive from the past decade or so. I'm not aware of any specific issues with his ST1000DM003. Yeah, I had a ST3000DM001 abruptly and rapidly start reallocating sectors about one week after its warranty expired, it had the same CC26 firmware.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2020 12:59
|
|
|
Is there any way for me to identify the LED components on this part of a Pioneer DDJ SX2? There's 8 of them arranged in a 2x4 pattern across the bottom center. I genuinely have no idea if this is the correct thread for this, but I didn't see a soldering/repair thread. I've had a few LEDs fail in my SX2, specifically the green LED for 6 differeng RGB LEDs. I have soldering equipment and I'd love to attempt a repair on my own if it doesn't require microsoldering. Would just prefer to order the specific component RGBs than to replace the entire PCB at a cost of ~$400 per side.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2020 21:30
|
|
|
Look in the diy subforum.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2020 21:56
|
|
|
Ahh shoot- it didn't even occur to me that my issue was more a DIY issue than a tech issue.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2020 21:58
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:Yeah that hard disk is on the way out, replace it as quickly as you can. Indiana_Krom posted:That particular series of seagate barracuda drives are pretty notorious for failing (I've had a couple fail myself). Pro tip: Crystal disk info can run in the background (hidden to a tray icon), start with windows, and be set to automatically re-scan all disks at regular intervals (I set it to 24 hours) so it will pop a notification with a warning if a disk shows a critical parameter fail out like that drive has done. Consider it an early warning system for disk failure, incredibly useful for the rare occasions when it goes off (because even though the SMART monitor is on every disk it is useless if nothing is reporting to you that there is a problem). Atomizer posted:The "sectors" parameters are the issue here. That's a reasonably well-used HDD just judging by the power cycles and power-on hours (although far from the highest I've seen on some still-good drives.) Sometimes the platters' surfaces start to fail in certain spots such that they can't reliably store data; that's why you're getting those warnings, because the drive controller has started to detect issues and it's in various states of attempting to mitigate them (i.e. "pending" sectors is before they're remapped, at which point that value will decrement and the "reallocated" value will increment.) I have ordered a 1tb SSD! This thread helped me another time I had a major issue with my PC and I appreciate the responses.
|
|
#
?
Feb 5, 2020 22:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 09:14 |
|
|
I have 2 unrelated questions (though they pertain to the same machine) I have, per this threads rec about a year ago, these ethernet to usb 2 adapters to get some increased length for some peripherals (kb/m adapter wireless). ive never been able to get them to work. im wondering if theres some basics to the tech i dont understand? i tried it with a long ~25 and short ~4-6 (idk, seemed about my height) cable to the same result secondly, i know this is more of a networking thing probably but maybe i can do this in 1 post instead of 2, ya know? is there a guide to getting Wake On LAN to work? it would be extremely valuable to me to have this feature and i swear its eluded me. if one of you has a particular website or thread somewhere that you find to be 'good' at a walk through for that i'd really like that resource ty
|
|
#
?
Feb 10, 2020 15:10
|
|