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Fabulousity posted:In general the further below the PSU's top output you operate the more efficient it'll run. This is an antiquated rule of thumb that does not apply to modern high-quality power supplies of the type that gets recommended ITT. Stop repeating it. The power efficiency curve of a good gold-rated PSU looks something like this: code:You do want some buffer over your system's expected draw, plus whatever you might need if you think you'll put more power hungry upgrades into it later. Putting a 450W PSU into a system with 400W expected draw will work if it's a good model, but it probably will reduce lifespan compared to a 550. There's no real penalty for overbuying PSU capacity other than purchase price.
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Jan 28, 2020 20:45
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Ehh, efficiency falls of a cliff at very low loads, though without digging through a bunch if PSU reviews I have no idea if any are markedly better than the others. Either way that is a good-rear end post and I'd like to link in the the OP if you don't mind.
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Jan 28, 2020 20:55
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Hello again, PC building goon friends! My fiance needs an upgrade and we'd like to pass this build by a few people to see where we can improve it. The only thing that probably won't change is the case since that's a personal favorite, and he'd strongly prefer an AMD GPU. Can more than likely drop the PSU to 650W if I'm seeing this right, too. What country are you in?: United States What are you using the system for? Frequent gaming, 1440p 60FPS What's your budget? $1300, though we won't complain about lower If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? N/A If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? We plan on picking up a 1440p/60Hz for him later this year; he currently has a 1080p/60Hz PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor ($164.49 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard ($106.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($136.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($149.99 @ Adorama) Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card ($406.98 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout ATX Mid Tower Case ($138.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($109.99 @ Best Buy) Total: $1244.40 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-28 14:51 EST-0500
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Jan 28, 2020 21:08
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Hmm, would it be fairer to say then that people should aim for double the wattage just for being able to reuse the PSU more easily? I’ve always done it mostly thinking about efficiency, but I still feel like it’s a good rule of thumb with how long the warranties on the models we recommend are and not knowing what crazy system you could put it in circa 2027. E: Either way right now the cheapest 550W I’d go with (the EVGA G3) is within a few dollars of that 650W G1, so there’s not ample savings to be had. There’s the GA but I’ve heard it’s an even worse G5, so I wouldn’t sacrifice the quality for savings. Demostrs fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Jan 28, 2020 |
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Jan 28, 2020 21:14
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Odds are strong your system will only get more efficient. Afaik PSUs do lose capacity over time, but I should hope they'll maintain effectiveness during the warranty period. There's really nothing wrong with buying a higher capacity, except the cost, and usually the difference between 550 and 650 isn't real large.
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Jan 28, 2020 21:19
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ItBreathes posted:Ehh, efficiency falls of a cliff at very low loads, though without digging through a bunch if PSU reviews I have no idea if any are markedly better than the others. But again, efficiency differences on a 5W draw are tenths of a watt. Not worth thinking about. Turning off lights in your house more often, or setting your PC to power save faster will be vastly more change in electric use. quote:Either way that is a good-rear end post and I'd like to link in the the OP if you don't mind.
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Jan 28, 2020 21:21
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ItBreathes posted:Ehh, efficiency falls of a cliff at very low loads, though without digging through a bunch if PSU reviews I have no idea if any are markedly better than the others. 80+ Titanium rated PSUs have 90%+ efficiency at 10% load. None of the other certifications have any requirements for loads below 20%. Also efficiency does fall off at low loads, but it's more like a hillock than a cliff. The y axis on those curves tends to start at like 70%.
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Jan 28, 2020 21:21
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broken pixel posted:Hello again, PC building goon friends! My fiance needs an upgrade and we'd like to pass this build by a few people to see where we can improve it. The only thing that probably won't change is the case since that's a personal favorite, and he'd strongly prefer an AMD GPU. Can more than likely drop the PSU to 650W if I'm seeing this right, too. Don't get a Hyper 212, at least not until the updated version comes out. You can get a GAMAXX or Arctic 34 for about the same price and they have better mounting mechanisms and as-good performance. It's also worth looking at getting a Sabrent Rocket/Inland Premium/Corsair MP510 1TB NVMe drive instead of a sata EVO drive. They're cheaper, virtually the same performance, and don't require any extra cables to connect to your motherboard. Scruff McGruff fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Jan 28, 2020 |
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Jan 28, 2020 21:53
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Can anyone tell me if the internal USB port needed by this Wifi Adapter (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07P61CK87) is present on this motherboard (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVYKFXF/). The reviews on the B450 with built-in wifi were super sketchy so I'm back to doing an external Wifi/Bluetooth card, but reviews for these types of cards say that connecting to the internal USB port of the motherboard to enable Bluetooth functionality can be problematic.
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Jan 28, 2020 21:59
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Demostrs posted:Hmm, would it be fairer to say then that people should aim for double the wattage just for being able to reuse the PSU more easily? I’ve always done it mostly thinking about efficiency, but I still feel like it’s a good rule of thumb with how long the warranties on the models we recommend are and not knowing what crazy system you could put it in circa 2027. Those are good considerations, but should not be recommendations. As I said, buying more PSU capacity than you need only costs you the money you pay at purchase, and will have little effect on ongoing costs. However, I don't think the main 2 power-using components, CPU & GPU, will be doubling their power use any time soon. The constraints now are on moving heat out of such a tiny surface area. Chips aren't getting any bigger, so that's unlikely to change. (Unless we get diamond substrate or in-chip microfluid channels or some other crazy future-tech, in which case yay! I'll buy a new PSU to celebrate.) Most people's next computer will be similar to the one they're building now, and if they expect different it's a case by case thing. Demostrs posted:E: Either way right now the cheapest 550W I’d go with (the EVGA G3) is within a few dollars of that 650W G1, so there’s not ample savings to be had. There’s the GA but I’ve heard it’s an even worse G5, so I wouldn’t sacrifice the quality for savings. The crazy logjam of PSUs at $100 and just above does mean you have a whole lot of options once you commit to spending that level. You can also stay at 550 and get a Seasonic Prime Titanium for just a few dollars more than the 750w EVGA if you have stupid-high standards for quality. Also EVGA I'm just not fully informed on, they change lineups really quick and I don't much like the way they have a dozen different models that seem designed to produce confusion. But the G5 is fine and even their cheaper bronze PSUs are totally acceptable quality (but corsair has better stuff at that price range).
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Jan 28, 2020 22:02
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Scruff McGruff posted:Don't get a Hyper 212, at least not until the updated version comes out. You can get a GAMAXX or Arctic 34 for about the same price and they have better mounting mechanisms and as-good performance. All right, thank you! I especially didn’t know about the Hyper 212 update.
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Jan 28, 2020 22:24
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Okay, going to pull the trigger on some parts. My current build: Thirst Mutilator posted:CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3 GHz Quad-Core Processor What I'm going to buy: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Best Buy) Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty B450 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($74.99 @ Adorama) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon) Total: $464.96 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-28 16:32 EST-0500 Any noticeable issues? I notice PCPartPicker mentions that updating BIOS might be required with a CPU that supports the older BIOS version - am I going to be totally hosed if that's the case?
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Jan 28, 2020 22:39
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Klungar posted:Can anyone tell me if the internal USB port needed by this Wifi Adapter (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07P61CK87) is present on this motherboard (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVYKFXF/). The reviews on the B450 with built-in wifi were super sketchy so I'm back to doing an external Wifi/Bluetooth card, but reviews for these types of cards say that connecting to the internal USB port of the motherboard to enable Bluetooth functionality can be problematic. Per that motherboard's manual you'll have two internal USB headers located at the bottom of the board. See the diagram on page 7 - The headers in question are numbered 19 and 20.
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Jan 28, 2020 22:59
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Klyith posted:Those are good considerations, but should not be recommendations. As I said, buying more PSU capacity than you need only costs you the money you pay at purchase, and will have little effect on ongoing costs. My concern was more thinking about the idea of needing a completely different system that used HEDT parts, but actually after estimating the power draw of a worst case "I need whatever the 2027 version of the 3990X is" scenario and thinking of its cost you'd probably just buy a new and modern PSU at that point. So, yeah, no point in making a recommendation of "but what if you all of a sudden find yourself in a very fringe use case?" Also didn't notice the 750W listed for the same price on PCPartpicker, but personally I hate rebates enough that I'd just buy the 650W at Amazon. Easy enough to use those prepaid cards you get from them towards Steam bucks though, so some people might consider it more liquid than I do. broken pixel posted:All right, thank you! I especially didn’t know about the Hyper 212 update. Taking into consideration the suggestions Scruff already gave (the HP EX920 is another NVMe drive in the same class at those he named), I made a few as well to the list: PCPartPicker Part List PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Best Buy) CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 34 CPU Cooler ($31.95 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H) Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($91.99 @ Amazon) Storage: HP EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($129.94 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card ($406.98 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout ATX Mid Tower Case ($138.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Platinum 550 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($107.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1202.82 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-28 16:52 EST-0500 Right now 6c/12t is plenty for games and the IPC boost the 3600 gets will largely offset the difference in cores between it and the 2700X. The MAX version of the Tomahawk comes with a newer, larger BIOS chip to fit all the new CPU SKUs in its microcode, and getting RAM for it rated for the advertised 3600 MHz speed on the QVL is difficult without it being RGB. You can at least save money with this variant of the Vengeance RGB Pro and consider getting the R6 with a side panel if you wanna see them. There's also the option of getting a set of 3200 MHz RAM on the QVL or getting 3600 that isn't and maybe have to muck around with a Ryzen RAM timing calculator and BIOS settings for a bit to get it working at the proper speeds. I also kinda like the suggestion of the Platinum PSU for a similar price (or at least I think that's what Klyith meant, the cheapest Titanium PSU I see is a Silverstone one), but you could get any of the aforementioned Gold ones too.
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Jan 28, 2020 23:05
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Fabulousity posted:Per that motherboard's manual you'll have two internal USB headers located at the bottom of the board. See the diagram on page 7 - The headers in question are numbered 19 and 20. Beautiful, thank you! Everything bought and on its way!
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Jan 28, 2020 23:06
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Demostrs posted:Go with something from AMD, it will perform better for cheaper. This is all great info, thanks. The last time I built with AMD it was on a socket 7 motherboard, so it has been a while. I'll likely play around some more on that site and may be back again.
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Jan 28, 2020 23:09
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*edit* disregard
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Jan 29, 2020 01:06
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Hello PC Building Thread! Looking to upgrade my 5 year old system, which means I'm building a new one. Going to carry over my peripherals (KB+M/Monitor/etc) so those aren't a factor. Main Goal: Gaming (Doom Eternal/CP2077/etc at high to max settings), some video editing. Current system  And here's what I'm currently planning: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Best Buy) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($62.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Blue 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB PULSE Video Card ($409.00 @ Walmart) Case: Corsair 270R ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ Corsair) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($105.98 @ Newegg) Total: $1047.93 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-28 23:26 EST-0500 I don't care much for overclocking so I probably won't spring for aftermarket cooling unless it's recommended. As far as the rest goes, the gpu is probably the one thing I won't budge on since I'm admittedly a diehard Sapphire fanboy (been using their products since my first HD5850 and I've yet to get a bad card). I may end up snagging some extra storage hard drives for movies/music in case my old HDDs fail later on. Is there anything that I should be on the lookout for? Any tips/recommendations are appreciated!
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Jan 29, 2020 05:33
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Scyantific posted:Hello PC Building Thread! Looking to upgrade my 5 year old system, which means I'm building a new one. Going to carry over my peripherals (KB+M/Monitor/etc) so those aren't a factor. I'd also try to set aside money for a monitor upgrade in the near future. A 5700XT is sort of overkill for 1080p 60fps, and 27" 1440p 144Hz IPS monitors with Freesync can be found for around $350 these days, sometimes even less (look for the Nixeus EDG-27S v2, the LG 27GL850 or the LG 27GL83A). High refresh rate 1440p with variable framerate support is a huge upgrade for basically all first-person games and you'll have the hardware to support it.
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Jan 29, 2020 10:34
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Scyantific posted:
CP2077 is going to have ray tracing which I would consider a "max setting" and I believe only Nvidia cards have that at the moment. Just giving you a heads up.
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Jan 29, 2020 16:16
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Thom P. Tiers posted:CP2077 is going to have ray tracing which I would consider a "max setting" and I believe only Nvidia cards have that at the moment. Just giving you a heads up. There is no way in hell that any card you can buy today will make ray tracing worth it. Maybe at 30 fps and that's a big maybe.
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Jan 29, 2020 18:35
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Thanks for the responses, I'm gonna spring for the faster RAM and will probably end up going for an aftermarket cooler as well. As far as ray-tracing goes, I'm not that insistent on max settings so it really doesn't matter to me anyways; I do appreciate the heads up though 
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Jan 29, 2020 19:28
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My current computer: i7 - 3930k Sandy Bridge E CPU Noctua NH D14 cooler 32 gigs of DDR3 RAM 1.5tb of SSD space nVidia 1080 GPU Very old Dell U2311H pair of monitors I'll be buying a decent 144hz+ freesync monitor shortly. 1. Does my 3930K bottleneck me for games like the upcoming Doom Eternal? 2. Is it worth selling the 3930k cpu/ram/mobo combo and buying a Ryzen 3600 cpu/ram/mobo combo?
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Jan 29, 2020 20:24
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I'm going to need to finally replace my PSU here before the new GPU line comes out, what are the Corsair lines to avoid/go after?
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Jan 29, 2020 21:25
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Need a quick sanity check—speccing out a HEDT system for a video editing station, mostly Premiere, some After Effects. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vRbdrV Not worried about the system specs (other than actually getting a hold of an 10980XE), that's what they need and it isn't worth the extra couple grand for the AMD TR equivalent, but PC Partpicker is complaining that the Fractal Design Meshify S2 is not dimensionally compatible with the Gigabyte X299 Designare 10G. Fractal's website says compatible with E-ATX up to 285 mm wide, and the Designare 10G is 305mm x 275mm per Gigabyte's website. Seems like the board should fit fine - any reason to worry that it won't? (I know I could use the Designare EX, that's what their last system was built on, but they actually do need 10GBE for their workflow and having it 2x built into the motherboard would be extremely nice to have.)
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Jan 29, 2020 22:41
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Lockback posted:I'm going to need to finally replace my PSU here before the new GPU line comes out, what are the Corsair lines to avoid/go after? CX non-modular if you have limited budget after that all the gold rated models (RM, TX, RMX) are all great. RM for fully modular, TX for semi-modular but zero fan mode, RMX for both. Their platinum-rated models like HX and HXi are also great, but have extra features that imo are kinda useless and bump the price a fair bit. I'd rather just get a seasonic prime platinum than spend extra $25 on USB monitoring or a switch for single vs multi 12v rails.
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Jan 29, 2020 22:42
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Kalman posted:Need a quick sanity check—speccing out a HEDT system for a video editing station, mostly Premiere, some After Effects. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vRbdrV I feel like it should be pointed out that, while the extra cost of TR isn't worth it, the biggest competitor for the 10980XE is really the Ryzen 9 3950x which, stock to stock, consistently matches and sometimes outperforms Intel's HEDT offering while being able to utilize the wider selection and higher availability of consumer motherboards. But if that's what they want then there's really no point arguing it. The warning is likely just because EATX isn't specifically listed in the PCpartpicker specs for the S2. If Fractal's info says it supports EATX then it should be fine, it just hasn't been updated on PCPP.
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Jan 29, 2020 23:06
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Scruff McGruff posted:I feel like it should be pointed out that, while the extra cost of TR isn't worth it, the biggest competitor for the 10980XE is really the Ryzen 9 3950x which, stock to stock, consistently matches and sometimes outperforms Intel's HEDT offering while being able to utilize the wider selection and higher availability of consumer motherboards. But if that's what they want then there's really no point arguing it. The warning is likely just because EATX isn't specifically listed in the PCpartpicker specs for the S2. If Fractal's info says it supports EATX then it should be fine, it just hasn't been updated on PCPP. For various reasons, AMD is not preferable. (Biggest are Thunderbolt support and ability to upgrade to 256GB RAM when they upgrade to 6K or 8K cameras.). But thanks for the sanity check on the case. (Worst case they return it and reorder but would prefer to avoid.)
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Jan 29, 2020 23:43
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Demostrs posted:Taking into consideration the suggestions Scruff already gave (the HP EX920 is another NVMe drive in the same class at those he named), I made a few as well to the list: PCPartPicker Part List Edit: While I'm here, I might as well ask about my own build. I swapped the CPU, mobo, and RAM (shoutout to heeheex2 for the CPU purchase!) about a year ago and feel good about it, except my GPU has been dragging me down. It doesn't perform as well as it should, and I don't know if there's anything I can do about it. Would I benefit from a new GPU? Is there something else I should consider? In addition to gaming, I also use my setup for design work—typically not video/animation, mostly Photoshop, Illustrator, and InDesign. I'd also like to do 1440p 60Hz since I have a compatible monitor, but I'm okay with running really heavy stuff at 1080p. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i7-8086K 4 GHz 6-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler Motherboard: MSI Z370-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Western Digital Blue 2 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 960 4 GB Video Card Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-29 19:22 EST-0500 I trimmed the list down to the core parts, but the complete one is above. broken pixel fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Jan 30, 2020 |
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Jan 30, 2020 01:15
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Klyith posted:CX non-modular if you have limited budget Thanks, perfect rundown!
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Jan 30, 2020 04:20
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So I understand this is a good time to upgrade my parts, and I've started to see a good deal of stutter in newer games. Pretty much all I use my home computer for is gaming- 1440p 120hz, already have a 2070 Super, just need to upgrade my 8gb of DDR3 and five year old i5. CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X Motherboard: ASUS AM4 TUF Gaming X570-Plus Memory: G.SKILL 32GB (2 x 16GB) Ripjaws V Series DDR4 PC4-25600 3200MHz I coupled this with a new SSD and it's coming out to a little under 800 dollars. My full budget is a thousand, so if there's anything I really don't need (like maybe the motherboard or CPU can be downgraded), or if I can get some real gains for a few hundred more dollars (like if 3600 memory will give me better return than I think) please let me know.
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Jan 30, 2020 04:32
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The Ryzen 3600 and 16 gigs of the same ram will do everything you want. Are you really into PCIE 4.0? Because otherwise the B450 Tomahawk Max is very capable and only costs $115.
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Jan 30, 2020 05:24
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an actual dog posted:There is no way in hell that any card you can buy today will make ray tracing worth it. Maybe at 30 fps and that's a big maybe. Not sure what a reasonable threshold for "worth it" is, but I got a used RTX 2080 for $585 that often gets me 60+ fps in Control with all ray tracing features enabled at 1920×1080 without DLSS, all other graphics settings max  I don't think it dips below 40 fps, even during intense battles.Wolfenstein: Youngblood runs at a similarly playable frame rate. HappyCapybaraFamily fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Jan 30, 2020 |
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Jan 30, 2020 06:18
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broken pixel posted:Edit: While I'm here, I might as well ask about my own build. I swapped the CPU, mobo, and RAM (shoutout to heeheex2 for the CPU purchase!) about a year ago and feel good about it, except my GPU has been dragging me down. It doesn't perform as well as it should, and I don't know if there's anything I can do about it. Would I benefit from a new GPU? Is there something else I should consider? In addition to gaming, I also use my setup for design work—typically not video/animation, mostly Photoshop, Illustrator, and InDesign. I'd also like to do 1440p 60Hz since I have a compatible monitor, but I'm okay with running really heavy stuff at 1080p. You'd definitely benefit from a new GPU, it just depends on what your budget is. For new cards, the 1660S is a good value that could do a mix of older titles at 1440p and newer ones at 1080: https://www.anandtech.com/show/15010/the-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1660-super-review-feat-evga There's also the 2060 and RX 5700 as upgrades to that, but sadly your case won't be able to fit some of the larger ones like the XFX DD Ultra. While not being the best cooler, it is often one of the cheapest 5700s and at $300 probably the best price-to-performance ratio out there so long as you haven't sworn their drivers off for life. Puget Systems also was noticing that Navi lacks the same optimizations other GPU architectures do in Photoshop, but it's not a large performance delta and may have been fixed since August: https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Photoshop-GPU-Roundup-NVIDIA-SUPER-vs-AMD-RX-5700-XT-1552/ Demostrs fucked around with this message at 09:48 on Jan 30, 2020 |
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Jan 30, 2020 09:45
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Steakandchips posted:My current computer: Any thoughts on this one?
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Jan 30, 2020 12:14
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HappyCapybaraFamily posted:Not sure what a reasonable threshold for "worth it" is, but I got a used RTX 2080 for $585 that often gets me 60+ fps in Control with all ray tracing features enabled at 1920×1080 without DLSS, all other graphics settings max The problem with RTX is that RTX ON often works okay... at a resolution lower than you’d reasonably want to run with RTX off. That means you’re either upscaling with something (and DLSS is mostly a bust), you’ve got two monitors, or you’re wasting some gpu potential in non-RTX games. It’s not the end of the world, but it’s an annoyance that makes it difficult to properly utilize an RTX card without introducing additional hits to fidelity.
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Jan 30, 2020 12:36
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Steakandchips posted:1. Does my 3930K bottleneck me for games like the upcoming Doom Eternal? 1. It's hard to spec for upcoming games, but likely if you have ok performance in Doom 4 it will be similar in Doom 5. 2. Of course. It's dramatically faster than a 3rd gen intel. But "worth it" is up to you...
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Jan 30, 2020 12:49
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Steakandchips posted:My current computer: I went from haswell (i5 4670k) to zen2 (r5 3600) with great 3600 CAS 16 ram and kept my 1060 6GB. Everything I've thrown at it runs great, ryzen coupled with fast ram is a great combo. 1. Debatable but I'd wager it will bottleneck the 1080 enventually (if it doesn't already). 2. Hell yeah if you can scrounge up some dough from selling your stuff you can get a great system for cheap ie. less than 350$ (minus what you get from your sell) for an r5 3600 + MSI MAX mobo + 16GB 3600 ram with low-ish CAS
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Jan 30, 2020 15:12
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Absorbs Smaller Goons posted:I went from haswell (i5 4670k) to zen2 (r5 3600) with great 3600 CAS 16 ram and kept my 1060 6GB. Everything I've thrown at it runs great, ryzen coupled with fast ram is a great combo. Thanks mate, this is helpful. Regarding DDR4 ram for the ryzen 3600: I'll definitely getting some 3600mhz or higher ram, but I am curious about the timings. Does 18-22-22-42 sound ok, for example? Should I get better timing-ed RAM, for game performance?
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Jan 30, 2020 15:47
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Stickman posted:The problem with RTX is that RTX ON often works okay... at a resolution lower than you’d reasonably want to run with RTX off. That means you’re either upscaling with something (and DLSS is mostly a bust), you’ve got two monitors, or you’re wasting some gpu potential in non-RTX games. Ah, true enough. It is pretty unreasonable to get an RTX 2080 for 1080p60 gaming reasons 
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Jan 30, 2020 15:52
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