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Thanks. Are these usually electric or pneumatic?
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Feb 7, 2020 17:13
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C-Bangin' it 
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Electric. If your tile was installed poorly you can get by with a hammer/chisel or an air hammer, but a rotary hammer is still going to be easier and faster. You can also rent one from certain places.
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Feb 7, 2020 17:40
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peepsalot posted:The HF heat gun I got for $10 many years ago is actually one of my favorite tools from them. I know the design has changed (a few times?) over the years though, so maybe more recent versions are significantly less quality. Mine is the kinda chunky lookin' safety-orange colored chicago electric one. I have the same one, used and abused, still working great.
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Feb 7, 2020 17:47
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Going through the shop of recently passed away relative, anyone know what this is for?
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Feb 7, 2020 19:34
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The one on the left is how they performed vasectomies in the 40's.
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Feb 7, 2020 19:37
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Lathe parts? It looks like it has a nub to hold the center of a spinning object.
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Feb 7, 2020 19:56
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That's what I was thinking too. The three verticals definitely hold it to a workbench, then there's an adjustment to hold something either round or rotating (or both) in between the two sections. If he has a lathe, perhaps it's adapters to hold different pieces?
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Feb 7, 2020 20:09
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Kreez posted:Going through the shop of recently passed away relative, anyone know what this is for? It looks like a predecessor to the very weird zyliss bench vise.  Not for a lathe, but centers for holding weird parts for bench work. e: what do the markings say? ee: from the US or elsewhere? Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Feb 7, 2020 |
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Feb 7, 2020 20:09
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Oh interesting, I'm kind of glad it's not something immediately recognizable to everyone. It's travelling across the country right now, and will be back in my hands in a week or two, I'll post an update with marking info. He was a piano tuner by trade, but his shop was full of stuff that had nothing to do with that. I don't believe he ever had a lathe, but could be wrong. I was thinking possibly it has nothing to do with spinning things, and that it could punch divots in sheet metal?
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Feb 7, 2020 23:24
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Colostomy Bag posted:Sorry about that. Eh, there's a whole lot worse things in the world than having a white dude tell another white dude that they should do more business together because "we're all white guys here". I just don't wanna do more business with him because of it and would like others to not work with him either.
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Feb 7, 2020 23:54
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Haha that’s white people for you. I live in one of the whitest, wealthiest counties in the country and it’s pretty annoying. Everyone here is a total Karen.
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Feb 8, 2020 03:38
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Elviscat posted:I have a Horror Fright $500 TIG/SMAW welder, and it's pretty awesome, good controls, dual voltage, all the components are decent quality and quite rugged, time will tell if it has some fatal flaw, welds pretty good for now though. Any opinion on this dude? I’ve got some money burning a hole in my pocket and I’m really wanting to learn.
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Feb 8, 2020 18:01
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For that money I would buy a nice MIG from Lincoln or Hobart. Especially for learning, it's not likely you'll break a nicer one and you won't have to learn around something that isn't working right. Worst case I'm sure the name brand will hold its value easier and have a wider range of parts availability. Looks like there's a Lincoln that does MIG and TIG for about the same cost, no Arc though.
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Feb 8, 2020 18:40
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trouser chili posted:Any opinion on this dude? I’ve got some money burning a hole in my pocket and I’m really wanting to learn. Please  along the way, I think welding is something I'm going to tackle learning in the next year or so. Local Jeep board loves the community college classes so while it feels like a bit of overkill, I think I'll sign up for those as soon as the next semester opens.
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Feb 9, 2020 00:51
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Wire feed is easy enough to pick up off YouTube. It’s all practice after that. I’d only been playing with my little 110v Hobart alone for 6 months after deciding to take a local class and it already felt like a waste of time. Wish I’d started with stick welding so I could’ve gotten past the “oh poo poo there’s an arc” panic earlier.
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Feb 9, 2020 01:41
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I paid a guy with 40 years of experience to teach me. By hour 5 I was welding stainless TIG. Like 80% of welding is setting up the welder correctly.
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Feb 9, 2020 04:37
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The only thing stopping me from just jumping in with a welder is that the two main projects I want to use it for are safety critical - an 8.8 swap for the TJ, and trailing arms for the C10. Neither of which I'm in a rush to do, and not things I want to gently caress with.
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Feb 9, 2020 05:12
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um excuse me posted:I paid a guy with 40 years of experience to teach me. By hour 5 I was welding stainless TIG. Like 80% of welding is setting up the welder correctly. Care to share any tips on welder setup? 
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Feb 9, 2020 07:12
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taqueso posted:Care to share any tips on welder setup? IIRC, with a stick welder you set it up for the thickness of the rods you're using. It'll say the voltage and AC/DC + - on the box. For a wire feed welder you set up for the thickness of the metal, process (Gas vs Flux) and wire diameter. The little Lincoln we've got at work has a chart on the inside of the side panel that lists settings for common thicknesses of metal. http://sarta.innovations2019.org/lincoln-electric-mig-welding-chart/
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Feb 9, 2020 15:31
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I do not prescribe myself to have any of the skill my instructor had so a lot of folks are going to be able to tell you more than I can. Every process has its unique settings. Unless you do the same welds over and over, the short answer is: it depends, unfortunately. But like the previous post says, every welder has a chart on it to get you in the ballpark. I picked it up quickly, so I have no reason to believe anyone else can't. A steady hand and being able to divide you attention between what your foot is doing with the power, the size and shape of the puddle, and how you're holding your electrode is the a lot of the battle. Pure experience is what gives you the knack for it. All that good equipment does is make it more forgiving and easier to set up and run.
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Feb 9, 2020 15:53
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IOwnCalculus posted:The only thing stopping me from just jumping in with a welder is that the two main projects I want to use it for are safety critical - an 8.8 swap for the TJ, and trailing arms for the C10. Neither of which I'm in a rush to do, and not things I want to gently caress with. Before I welded in my floor pans I just bought a sheet of.. Sheet metal and just cut it up and put it back together until I was comfortable. Of course I took welding in high school and watched a lot of videos and read texts too. The best practice to me was low risk projects. I made a stand for a shooting target, added parts to my flatbed etc. Nothing made me more nervous than a guy winching out the Binder from the receiver hitch I welded to the bumper though.
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Feb 9, 2020 23:56
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trouser chili posted:Any opinion on this dude? I’ve got some money burning a hole in my pocket and I’m really wanting to learn. I really like the Vulcans for the value, they have good granularity on the controls, hf start, and other nice functions, the torches and clamps are surprisingly nice. Used welders are too expensive, too broken, not on the market long enough, or stolen. If you want a nice import welder Everlast makes nice stuff too. I have a Hobart Mig to supplement the Tig/stick. It really depends on what you want to do, for gluing together carbon/alloy steels Mig is quickest and easiest, good quality flux wire is low maintenance and easy as pie, here's some cable railing posts I made with Mig. https://i.imgur.com/caAVJjI.jpg After the "grinder" portion of "grinder or paint makes me the welder I ain't"  Took the time to chamfer and gap all the joints, so I got fusion through 100% of the metal. Finished:  Tig is really fun, and it's the most versatile method, and you can weld anything (except Al, if you have DC only) it's very forgiving with settings, and you can always re-run the arc over the bead to pretty stuff up. It's easy to get started but difficult to master. Here's some Tig on an old trailer we cut up and welded back together in a different way.  Stick is pretty much the only viable process for heavy/structural welding, and is really loving hard.
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Feb 10, 2020 00:52
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taqueso posted:Care to share any tips on welder setup? It totally is mostly set up. Inasmuch as set up means correct welding machine settings and joint design, that'll determine a lot of what makes a good weld. If he said TIGing aluminum, I'd be suspicious as well, but stainless isn't significantly harder to weld than carbon steel, just less forgiving but since you asked, for 1/8" SS plate, I like to use ~110 amp on -DC @ 120hz with a 1/16 ceriated tungsten and ~17 SCFM Argon with a #5 cup. It produces minimal sugaring with the HF pulse, but the heat is high enough that you have to move quick
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Feb 10, 2020 01:20
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Harbor Freight impact sockets are decent, aren't they? I thought I read that somewhere; that whatever chinesium they're made out of works reasonably well for something like an impact socket.
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Feb 10, 2020 20:15
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warning, I've only read a little wikipedia. Is SMAW welding just a huge DC power supply and consumable sticks? Seems pretty easy to DIY. Are there desirable features that go beyond CC and CV?
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Feb 10, 2020 20:29
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boxen posted:Harbor Freight impact sockets are decent, aren't they? I thought I read that somewhere; that whatever chinesium they're made out of works reasonably well for something like an impact socket. Yes, with a disclaimer. Get the chromoly steel ones, not chrome vanadium.
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Feb 10, 2020 20:34
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taqueso posted:warning, I've only read a little wikipedia. Is SMAW welding just a huge DC power supply and consumable sticks? Seems pretty easy to DIY. Are there desirable features that go beyond CC and CV? If you need some inspiration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJOX0c60wQE
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Feb 10, 2020 20:36
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boxen posted:Harbor Freight impact sockets are decent, aren't they? I thought I read that somewhere; that whatever chinesium they're made out of works reasonably well for something like an impact socket. The ones I've used have been a-ok. I don't use them day in day out, though. I think the non-bargain special bin HF wrenches/sockets are totally fine for general use.
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Feb 10, 2020 20:36
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mod sassinator posted:If you need some inspiration: That is exactly the thing you want to do inside!
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Feb 10, 2020 20:38
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taqueso posted:warning, I've only read a little wikipedia. Is SMAW welding just a huge DC power supply and consumable sticks? Seems pretty easy to DIY. Are there desirable features that go beyond CC and CV? It’s commonly called “stick welding,” and you can get stick welders cheap enough at estate sales that it’s not worth whatever your DIY plan is.
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Feb 10, 2020 21:14
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You can stick weld pretty effectively with a car battery, if you want to, for some reason. But yeah a standard "tombstone" or "buzzbox" is just a big transformer with a variable tap, and I think some kind of rectification, you would be hard pressed to DIY something for less money.
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Feb 10, 2020 21:30
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taqueso posted:warning, I've only read a little wikipedia. Is SMAW welding just a huge DC power supply and consumable sticks? Seems pretty easy to DIY. Are there desirable features that go beyond CC and CV? You can do AC too on some machines, E: am I dumb? Basically everything besides 6010 can use AC. Can't think of a reason why you'd want to over DC, but they can be used with AC if need be The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Feb 11, 2020 |
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Feb 10, 2020 23:20
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Elviscat posted:You can stick weld pretty effectively with a car battery, if you want to, for some reason. God I want to try that some time. Just to say I have. Assuming the battery is installed, in the vehicle/machine, should the engine be running? I can't imagine you'd be able to weld for more than a minute before the battery is dead enough that you can't start the engine. Battery condition dependent of course.
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Feb 11, 2020 04:18
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I'd imagine you'd fry the alternator quick fast and in a hurry if the car was running. Maybe you could cycle the engine to charge the battery between beads?
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Feb 11, 2020 05:24
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This is a bad idea in general, but what on earth are you welding that needs that much power? Because a battery can easily dump +300 amps if the posts are directly bridged, and grounding the work piece to a terminal and having a work lead on the other terminal will effectively be bridging the terminals You'll definitely melt something, no clue about welding though
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Feb 11, 2020 05:50
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If the weather's decent and I have time tomorrow I might try it. E: I could do it with the Propulsion battery on the Leaf, the charger can supply more current than my welder can take. I might end up vaporizing a couple rods before I get the knack though. Elviscat fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Feb 11, 2020 |
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Feb 11, 2020 06:00
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You people are loving mental  Please make video and cross post to the OSHA thread
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Feb 11, 2020 06:22
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Elviscat posted:If the weather's decent and I have time tomorrow I might try it. What kind of battery? If it's Lithium of any flavor, I would say that's a hard no. Welding will likely blow up your Leaf if that's the case Lead acid or NiMH shouldn't explode if you assume a freakishly low duty cycle, but beware the heat buildup
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Feb 11, 2020 06:38
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Also do it indoors on a rug like that other video.
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Feb 11, 2020 06:42
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Just accidently short the terminals with a wrench or screwdriver like a normal person
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Feb 11, 2020 08:55
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