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Just wanted come in and say that I stuck my first double dyno today and I'm pretty stoked. I still need to work on the crux higher up but I'm going to take it as a victory for my 38 year old shoulders and elbows.
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Feb 23, 2020 04:36
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Partial Octopus posted:So I've been climbing for around 6 years and I've plateaued at around v5-v6. I've decided to start hang board training. I've easily managed to find info on the workouts themselves but I can't find any info on when to actually do them. Okay so Im 29 and began climbing at 27. I was plateaud at 5/6 for awhile and made some pretty critical adjustments that have allowed me to send 6s (4) and 7s(2) outside. Ive also begun to send 7s in the gym regularly and have come to expect to send nearly every 5/6. I train T/Th and free-climb Sat/Sun (no training after - generally a limit day and a climb climbs you can send in a single session). On Tuesday and Thursday, I climb for 1.5 hours. This encompasses the whole climb: a warm-up, around fifteen minutes of drilling than an hour of either limit bouldering or sub-limit, high intensity bouldering (5,6, and even some 7s in styles that suit me). On Saturday Sunday Ill generally have one day where I climb for three hours and another closer to two, unless Im outside, in which case I just climb all day and try to take big rests. After, I do a mix of core, push, and pull training that takes an hour or so. I generally do three core exercises (I get the most mileage out of quarter levers, Turkish get-ups and full body tension focused climber planks), one push (kb press), one pull (weighed pull-ups) and one hip hinge in circuit fashion. Before this I do 5 sets of 10 second hangs on 20mm edge with as much weight as I can. With other exercises, I aim for a maximal amount of control and stability and rarely ever go for broke. We need to be able to control our movements while climbing, training movement patterns that ostensibly serve to ground your climbing/prevent injury sloppily seldom yields significant return. My experience with finger training is that core stability has served to strengthen my fingers by reducing the load on them far more than actual hang-boarding has; however, I have abnormally strong fingers for someone whose climber as long as me. Climbing on system walls and the tension board for at least one and half to two hours (of a possible eight total) has also been immensely beneficial for learning things like body tension, power, and footwork. Perhaps the two most important changes I made were to actively limit my time climbing, stringently adhering to my workout (rather than overtraining constantly), and most importantly, to change my perception about climbing. Learning to value the effort over the send, to apply higher levels of commitment and focus, to stop perceiving climbs as hard or easy, to stop climbing with self-limiting climbers (more a product of my job forcing me to climb at 6am before work, as Im too gassed (factory labor - lots of walking around and moving heavy boxes) to climb after), and learning to treat training as training rather than performing have all gone a long way to improve my climbing. As trite as it sounds, The Rock Warriors Way and Espresso Lessons are both excellent pieces of head-game literature. In addition, Dave Macleods 9 out of 10 climbers (and also his YouTube channel) are also excellent for reflecting on how youre limiting yourself in your training. rest his guts fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Feb 23, 2020 |
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Feb 23, 2020 16:23
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Shoe question. I'm about worn through my Evolv Kronos and have been trying every shoe I can get my hands on through REI. Pretty much everything has some kind of shoe "fart" for me no matter how much I size down. I know this has to do with the heel not fitting properly and allowing air to get sucked down, but is it something that goes away if it's minor? I think I've bought and returned around 25-30 pairs of shoes and haven't found anything that seems to work.
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Feb 25, 2020 05:17
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Shoe fart owns imo. Ultimately it depends how much your heel is slipping. Farting doesnt necessarily mean a bad fit
George H.W. Cunt fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Feb 25, 2020 |
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Feb 25, 2020 06:40
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Not interested second pair of Kronos? I just bought a pair myself a month ago, maybe. So far I like them a lot more than my Nighthawks
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Feb 25, 2020 14:30
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On Terra Firma posted:Shoe question. I'm about worn through my Evolv Kronos and have been trying every shoe I can get my hands on through REI. Pretty much everything has some kind of shoe "fart" for me no matter how much I size down. I know this has to do with the heel not fitting properly and allowing air to get sucked down, but is it something that goes away if it's minor? I think I've bought and returned around 25-30 pairs of shoes and haven't found anything that seems to work. Not an expert, but I found very very few shoes that even remotely fit my foot. Heel in particular and it was extra annoying. Fortunately, scarpa instincts probably use a copy of my foot as a last so I've found a winning shoe forever. If you try more and more and still nothing fits just perfectly I think the important question is : does your heel moves when you heel hook? Does it affect hooking at all or is it just an annoying noise? If it's just noise, it's not the end of the world if everything else is right.
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Feb 25, 2020 16:22
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On Terra Firma posted:Shoe question. I'm about worn through my Evolv Kronos and have been trying every shoe I can get my hands on through REI. Pretty much everything has some kind of shoe "fart" for me no matter how much I size down. I know this has to do with the heel not fitting properly and allowing air to get sucked down, but is it something that goes away if it's minor? I think I've bought and returned around 25-30 pairs of shoes and haven't found anything that seems to work. You may not be sizing down enough. Especially if you're ordering online and not trying on multiple pairs of the same shoe. What shoes have come closest?
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Feb 25, 2020 17:54
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The general fit of the shoe and the toe is much more important than the heel. As long as your foot doesn't move in general the shoe is workable and if it doesnt move when you heel hook then there's no issue regardless of it making a sound. Leather shoes with less rubber around the heel will break in as well. A lot of shoes cover the entire heel though so watch out for that.
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Feb 25, 2020 18:53
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I got my first pair of aggressive shoes and boy howdy they hurt. Ive had a few sessions in them, and now I can actually climb in them without being distracted by pain, but it was a difficult process. Im a little worried that I may have sized them too small, but one size up and I had empty space by the big toe and that didnt feel right at all. Most of the pain is the knuckles of the toes pushing against the upper and the tip of my big toe not being used to being weighted like it is in these shoes. Does that all sound normal? Or did I mess this up?
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Feb 25, 2020 21:59
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That section of leather where your toes knuckles push against is one of the only spots on most aggressive shoes that will stretch. I take mine off between climbs, or else they're just painful. That sounds like the proper fit to me.
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Feb 25, 2020 22:06
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Eventually you'll get calluses on your big toe knuckle, which helps cut down on the pain from aggressive shoes (until the callus gets too big...)
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Feb 25, 2020 23:17
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I kept hearing that shoes should be snug, but not painful. So its nice to hear that aggressive shoes are painful when fit correctly, at least at first if you arent used to them.
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Feb 26, 2020 00:03
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AriTheDog posted:You may not be sizing down enough. Especially if you're ordering online and not trying on multiple pairs of the same shoe. What shoes have come closest? Other shoes my heels slip out if I point my toes down. The shoes I've tried so far: Sportiva Skwama, Otaki, Miura vs, Scarpa Vapor Vs, instinct VS, Veloce, Butora Acro wide and narrow, Narshe, and one other model I can't remember. Evolv defy and shaman. I tried on a few so ill shoes too but can't remember the names. I gave Otakis a try last night and I could not climb in them because they were so painful on my toes. Like nearly bringing tears to my eyes levels of pain. Skwamas hold my heel in place the best but the material around my ankle digs into my achilles. Scarpa Veloces feel the best overall in the forfoot but the heel slips if I try to hook in them and I don't think I can size down any more than I have given it probably won't stretch. I feel like I'm losing my mind.
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Feb 26, 2020 02:30
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Here's a pair of miuras I retired (after numerous resoles) next to a new pair. Note the fold in the leather at the toe of the worn pair vs the new. That's all stretched out from a loooot of climbing in them. The new ones hurt, and had to be broken in over the course of a month or so.
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Feb 26, 2020 03:01
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armorer posted:Here's a pair of miuras I retired (after numerous resoles) next to a new pair. Note the fold in the leather at the toe of the worn pair vs the new. That's all stretched out from a loooot of climbing in them. The new ones hurt, and had to be broken in over the course of a month or so. Define "hurt" though. For me it's borderline unbearable pain while standing on even large jugs. Some people say it should just be uncomfortable or just a tiny bit painful but that hasn't been my experience.
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Feb 26, 2020 03:12
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On Terra Firma posted:Define "hurt" though. For me it's borderline unbearable pain while standing on even large jugs. Some people say it should just be uncomfortable or just a tiny bit painful but that hasn't been my experience. Definitely not borderline unbearable. They were painful to walk around the gym in at first, and would leave red splotches on my toes when I took them off between climbs. After maybe 6 or 8 climbing sessions, they wouldn't really hurt to wear for a climb or two, but would hurt if I left them of longer than that. Once they're well broken in I can wear them for an hour, during which I climb a bunch of boulder problems or whatever, but they are still not comfortable at all so I don't do that. Edit: For heel fit in miura vs specifically, you need to sink your heel into the shoe heel very specifically, and then really strap the velcro down tight so it stays there. The heel DOES NOT stretch on these shoes, so if your heel doesn't fit snugly in there, they likely won't feel right on your heel even over time. When I put them on I press my toes all the way up into the front, and then I really sink my heel aaaaallllll the way into that heel cup, and the I strap the velcro down very tightly, starting from the toe. There are zero spare millimeters anywhere inside the shoe at the point. I mean that absolutely zero dead space at all. armorer fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Feb 26, 2020 |
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Feb 26, 2020 03:20
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On Terra Firma posted:Other shoes my heels slip out if I point my toes down. The shoes I've tried so far: Sportiva Skwama, Otaki, Miura vs, Scarpa Vapor Vs, instinct VS, Veloce, Butora Acro wide and narrow, Narshe, and one other model I can't remember. Evolv defy and shaman. I tried on a few so ill shoes too but can't remember the names. The ankle of a Skwama will stretch a little, though I'm not certain what you mean by digging into your achilles. If it's even remotely tolerable I'd probably try that.
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Feb 26, 2020 06:25
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asur posted:The ankle of a Skwama will stretch a little, though I'm not certain what you mean by digging into your achilles. If it's even remotely tolerable I'd probably try that. The edging feels very sharp compared to other shoes so when I bend my ankle in different directions it presses into my skin in an uncomfortable way. If you're familiar with them it's sort of how the material around a vans era is more padded and comfortable than a vans authentic if that makes any sense. edit: This is the area that feels sharp and digs into my skin a bit:  The heel cup itself actually fits me very very well. The Toebox is tight and a little painful, but probably tolerable provided it stretches and conforms to my foot after a few sessions. On Terra Firma fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Feb 26, 2020 |
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Feb 26, 2020 15:21
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On Terra Firma posted:Define "hurt" though. For me it's borderline unbearable pain while standing on even large jugs. Some people say it should just be uncomfortable or just a tiny bit painful but that hasn't been my experience. Like you rush gasping to the end of each pitch so you can take them off and have to hold back from hurling them into the forest and giving up climbing. Four years and two resoles later, I love them to bits. Try to avoid buying shoes midway through a climbing trip because you have no option but to climb, and use them, every day.
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Feb 26, 2020 20:18
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Endjinneer posted:Like you rush gasping to the end of each pitch so you can take them off and have to hold back from hurling them into the forest and giving up climbing. I measure it whether or not I can climb up and downclimb a V0 without wanting to cry.
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Feb 26, 2020 21:14
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Sizing shoes is going to be a bit of a learning curve, and what you can tolerate will change. It's not just the shoe stretching as you wear it, your foot definitely conforms to the shoe a bit. I only wear evolv shamans and scarpa dragos now and I've had multiple pairs of each in the same size and the break in period is way easier now. I remember my first pair of Dragos it was weeks where I'd put them on, do one V0 in pain the whole time (down climb because no way I can land in them), then take them off to rest my feet, and it'd be like 2-3 boulders before I could climb in them normally each session. Now it's pretty much fine, although I did bruise the poo poo out of my big toe by hiking like 5 minutes in dragos after lowering off a rope traverse. Should have just gone barefoot I guess. Definitely want to try some Butora Gomis if I can find some on sale though, I really liked the Acros, but they fit the same niche as the Shamans so I just stuck with Shamans in the end.
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Feb 26, 2020 21:59
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Just ordered some gomis to try out so I'll report back once I have them. I've got really wide feet which is probably contributing to the issues finding shoes that aren't brutal on my toes.
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Feb 26, 2020 23:50
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I feel like my feet have shrunk a bit from regularly wearing tight rear end climbing shoes over the past 12 years
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Feb 27, 2020 03:49
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:I feel like my feet have shrunk a bit from regularly wearing tight rear end climbing shoes over the past 12 years I'm in the same boat, when I started climbing 6 years ago I was a street 10, now I'm lucky if I can fit into a 9 Unfortunately pain is necessary for a good fit sometimes, your foot will slowly conform over time.
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Feb 27, 2020 04:36
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Too many people try to cram their feet in shoes that do not suit the shape of their feet. If you try a pair of snug shoes that still have a pocket of air under the foot arch, ill fitting heel cup or painfully curled toes the solution is NOT to downsize to get rid of the 'dead space', but to find a better fitting shoe. Ideally find one that feels great straight off the shelf, and then downsize a half or a full size depending on how stretchy the material is. I'm a size 40 street, a 36 Python and 37 laced Miuras. They are still tight after resoling and never painful after the first week of climbing/resoling. Many models are too painful for me, even when trying them at street size.
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Feb 27, 2020 11:52
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I hope you guys climb vInfinity. Because while Im ok with a pair that is sort of painful for the first month, the type of unbearable pain you guys are describing does not seem necessary unless youre climbing really hard. I may just be lucky that the instinct vs fit is just perfect for me but still. But ill confirm that pain tolerance does go up with time because i went down a full size from my previous pair of instinct and found that they were somehow much easier to break in even if they were much tighter
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Feb 27, 2020 14:51
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My shoes were definitely in the "gasping in pain as I rushed to finish the climb" at first, but the payoff is that I can go on full point like some sort of hairy, chalky ballerina.
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Feb 27, 2020 15:08
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I pretty much don't downsize anymore. Maybe a half size. Definitely not on my gym shoes though, which makes outside shoes hurt more. I do a lot more easy trad with my super comfy TCs though. Glorious. Then I go to IC or the voo and punish my entire self.
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Feb 27, 2020 15:30
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Yeah 95% of the time I wear Miura laces that are snug but not at all tight or uncomfortable, they fit like a glove. Usually keep em untied until Im trying hard. If Im trying to send a hard steep boulder Ill wear Geniuses that are tight enough that I dont want to wear them a second longer than I have to.
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Feb 27, 2020 16:23
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So the Butora Gomi arrived today. Good for wider feet but I think it would have been better if they included some way for the front to stretch out. The whole front of the shoe is nothing but rubber and if I size up my big toe probably wouldn't hit the end of the shoe. The heel feels way nicer than the acro though. Still going to return them because I can't see how or where these would stretch over time. Ended up sizing down a half size on the Kronos and they fit about as snug as I could ask for. Annoying as gently caress that I can't find anything but these that work but whatever.
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Feb 28, 2020 22:17
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I haven't looked at the Gomi yet but if it is similar to the acro the acro does stretch a bit despite having a ton of rubber over the front.
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Feb 28, 2020 23:49
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I don't know where they could stretch though since they're are no gaps in the rubber anywhere.
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Feb 29, 2020 19:27
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Took my daughter climbing outside for the first time yesterday. She did really well until she saw an ant halfway up the second climb then she only wanted to hike. 
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Mar 3, 2020 02:01
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Very nice!
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Mar 3, 2020 03:35
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M. Night Skymall posted:Took my daughter climbing outside for the first time yesterday. She did really well until she saw an ant halfway up the second climb then she only wanted to hike. See I wasnt sure I was going to learn how to top rope outside this summer. This post just convinced me that I need to and that I need to take my oldest with me at some point. Must have been fun
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Mar 3, 2020 23:13
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KingColliwog posted:See I wasnt sure I was going to learn how to top rope outside this summer. It was super fun, but depending on how old your kid is it might help to be comfortable outdoors, or have extra people. Taking a toddler at least made the whole thing a lot more work than a regular outdoor trip, and basically meant I had to be fine soloing up stuff to put up the rope since my wife couldn't completely abandon watching the kid to belay me or anything. Anyway, take your kids outdoors, my parents dragged me around to camping and hiking trips all the time when I was a kid, and it cemented the idea that I was an outdoors person by the time I was an adult. Hopefully I can do the same thing with my kid.
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Mar 4, 2020 17:10
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I would also quit climbing if I saw a bug
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Mar 4, 2020 21:52
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One time I found a snake hiding behind a big flake I grabbed, which was horrifying. Thank God for bail biners
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Mar 5, 2020 00:57
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M. Night Skymall posted:It was super fun, but depending on how old your kid is it might help to be comfortable outdoors, or have extra people. Taking a toddler at least made the whole thing a lot more work than a regular outdoor trip, and basically meant I had to be fine soloing up stuff to put up the rope since my wife couldn't completely abandon watching the kid to belay me or anything. Anyway, take your kids outdoors, my parents dragged me around to camping and hiking trips all the time when I was a kid, and it cemented the idea that I was an outdoors person by the time I was an adult. Hopefully I can do the same thing with my kid. I actually want to learn this summer so I can do awesome stuff like that next year once I feel comfortable enough to put my sons life's on the line. And yeah we're also working hard on making our kids outdoor persons. It was rough for the last 2 years with the twins, but we should be able to start getting back into hiking and camping and everything outdoors now. I always wished I had parents that made me do amazing stuff (they were good parents and we were camping all the time, but they are very "boring") and now that I'm a dad I understand that it's not always easy to be awesome and do cool poo poo with kids, but I'm going to try as hard as I can. Pics like those you posted just motivate me even more.
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Mar 5, 2020 18:59
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Xyven posted:One time I found a snake hiding behind a big flake I grabbed, which was horrifying. Thank God for bail biners Go to Potrero Chico and you can experience the horror of 10 long centipedes coming out of what you thought was a great hold! 
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Mar 5, 2020 21:45
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