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Dogen posted:Buy some lamp cord and terminate it yourself Real talk, searching braided lamp cord brings up some pretty and cheap cables. Is there a problem if I do this?
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Feb 23, 2020 20:57
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I’ve been using a roll of 12 gauge wire from Home Depot for like... ever With the screw on banana plugs like the ones just posted it’s foolproof Dogen fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Feb 23, 2020 |
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Feb 23, 2020 21:29
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Big thick cabling is only required if you're pushing big power or you have a really long run. So feel free to use whatever, within reason.
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Feb 23, 2020 21:35
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Han Nehi posted:Thanks for the advice everyone! I settled on these speakers to go with my 90w receiver. This is for 3-channel movies and very very rarely for music. I read this as "plenum" rated so many times and even started to type up a rant about how you don't need plenum rated cable unless you're running in wall cabling and how thick the gauge should be and so on... Anywho... on that note the Monoprice CMP rated cable is pretty good for what it is. Bonus points for being able to run it in the wall. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13716 and 100' of 14AWG is still less than $40. I usually just use their regular speaker wire: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2747 But they're out of 14AWG so you have to choose between 16AWG (which is still fine. You're not going to have a run long enough for it to matter, I'm sure.) or 12AWG which is just more wire to have to deal with. Wasabi the J posted:Real talk, searching braided lamp cord brings up some pretty and cheap cables. Braiding the individual conductors actually does not do as good of a job at mitigating EMI as running them very closely in parallel. You're even better off if you can twist the two conductors. Besides that I say go wild. I bought some nice cloth wrapped lamp cord and the conductors were actually well twisted inside so I said "why not?" and made a bunch of 10-12' speaker cables out of them.
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Feb 23, 2020 23:05
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FilthyImp posted:Who ever owned my house before decided that speaker wire was adequate for the sconce extension lights they put in the dining room A friend of mine bought a foreclosed-on house and they had done this with the front entrance hall's overhead light. When he opened the ceiling to rewire wire it correctly the speaker wire turned to dust when he touched it.
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Feb 24, 2020 20:33
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RichterIX posted:A friend of mine bought a foreclosed-on house and they had done this with the front entrance hall's overhead light. When he opened the ceiling to rewire wire it correctly the speaker wire turned to dust when he touched it. probably the cheapest CCA out there just to top it off. I won't even use that for speakers 
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Feb 24, 2020 22:40
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Not sure if this is better in this thread or the hdtv thread but I grabbed a new receiver (denon avr s650h) and am having what I believe are handshake issues between devices and my tv. I’ve tried different high speed cables but still have the same issue. All devices work fine on normal 4K but 4K HDR at 60hz, Dolby vision, and rgb on the ps4 all experience issues. Hooking directly to the tv devices are fine. On the avs forum I found a suggestion to purchase an EDID manager to put between the receiver and tv. Anyone have any experience with these devices? I went ahead and ordered one from amazon but am traveling all week so can’t test it until this weekend.
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Feb 26, 2020 14:34
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Yeah a lot of our kit at work has EDID managers. They work well but then our equipment wasn't struggling holding a particular resolution so it's difficult to say if it's going to work for you. Our switching kit has them integrated and they're purely to push an input to a specific resolution output rather than try and fix something that should already be working. Have you tried the latest firmware on both the TV and Receiver? It's certainly an issue I'd push back on the manufacturer if so.
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Feb 26, 2020 16:02
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Yeah everything is updated. It seems like a semi common issue with LG oled TVs and certain devices (especially the ps4). This is the 2017 oled c7 I think. Not sure if newer ones have the same problem. The other device I have issues with is the 4K Apple TV. Xbox one s works fine.
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Feb 26, 2020 16:14
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Have you checked to see what chroma sub sampling is being used on the problem sources? If the receiver is having bandwidth troubles reducing that can help. Really only affects the display of you have a pc hooked up.
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Feb 26, 2020 17:17
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Hopefully this is a simple pair of questions (and hopefully the right thread) - I recently cut cable and tonight I set up my antenna. I have a Sony TV and my sound system is a Logitech Z-5500. Is it possible for my Sony's stock remote to control the volume on the Logitech? Likewise, I also have a Sony Blu-Ray player connected to the Z-5500. Its remote also have a volume control, but it adjusts the TV's volume which I keep at 0. Can this be switched to control the Logitech's volume level?
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Feb 27, 2020 05:55
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TITANKISSER69 posted:Hopefully this is a simple pair of questions (and hopefully the right thread) - I recently cut cable and tonight I set up my antenna. I have a Sony TV and my sound system is a Logitech Z-5500. Is it possible for my Sony's stock remote to control the volume on the Logitech? The only way it would work (to my knowledge) is if you have a variable audio output on the TV. How are the Logitechs connected?
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Feb 27, 2020 05:59
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My roommate's Xbox has the Logitech's optical port, the Blu-Ray player has the coax port, and the TV is connected into one of the 6ch direct ports.
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Feb 27, 2020 06:20
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Yeah look for a variable output option in the sound menu (Sony used to have separate ports for fixed and variable out but not recently IIRC). Mind you don't blow your head off switching sources though 
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Feb 27, 2020 21:50
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How important is 4K upscaling in a receiver (versus the TV)? I'm looking at the Denon AVR-X1600H versus the Denon AVR-X2600H. Am I correct in thinking if I'm ok with the lack of the additional inputs, I should just go with the 1600h?
Residency Evil fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Feb 29, 2020 |
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Feb 29, 2020 21:04
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I have an older Bose home system. I’d like to get a new AV receiver with things like HDMI Connections, usb, Bluetooth etc. I know very little about AV. The speaker connections to the Bose however look like they’re proprietary DIN connectors. Can I cut the DIN connectors off and use the Bose speakers and wire with another receiver? I’d like to drive the 5.1 speakers already in the living room and two outdoor speakers. The speaker connectors are the multi-conductor wires seen toward the left in the picture below. Here’s the back of the bose unit: https://imgur.com/gallery/TgWXAPk Proust Malone fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Mar 1, 2020 |
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Mar 1, 2020 00:15
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That’s not going to happen with that Bose unit. Generally the speakers are custom low impedance designed to work with that system. You could use the optical input, but I’m wondering just how old that thing is. You have a model number? Long story short if you want to keep using those speakers your gonna have to keep that unit and work around it.
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Mar 1, 2020 01:20
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Residency Evil posted:How important is 4K upscaling in a receiver (versus the TV)? I'm looking at the Denon AVR-X1600H versus the Denon AVR-X2600H. Am I correct in thinking if I'm ok with the lack of the additional inputs, I should just go with the 1600h? It’s not important , upscaling in the receiver is best turned off in most circumstances. Ron Jeremy posted:I have an older Bose home system. I’d like to get a new AV receiver with things like HDMI Connections, usb, Bluetooth etc. I know very little about AV. No, get new speakers.
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Mar 1, 2020 01:22
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Dogen posted:It’s not important , upscaling in the receiver is best turned off in most circumstances. Thanks. Sounds like the X1600H is a solid choice then, versus the X2600H?
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Mar 1, 2020 02:03
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Well the 2600 has a better amp section and a few more hdmi ins/outs. Depends on your use case and the price difference.
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Mar 1, 2020 02:15
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Dogen posted:Well the 2600 has a better amp section and a few more hdmi ins/outs. Depends on your use case and the price difference. It looks like the X1600H can be had for $350 while the X2600 is $450. This would be for a 5.1 system. Our setup is in our attic, so it's not a very far distance from the TV to the couch. I'm not going to be close to maxing the HDMI in/outs. edit: looks like the X3500 could be had for around $450 too. Residency Evil fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Mar 1, 2020 |
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Mar 1, 2020 02:47
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skipdogg posted:That’s not going to happen with that Bose unit. Generally the speakers are custom low impedance designed to work with that system. You could use the optical input, but I’m wondering just how old that thing is. You have a model number? Model is AM267606-001-02 Bose AV 18 I think. I’m fine getting rid of it, I was just hoping to save the speakers since they’re already wired and mounted. Oh, there’s a pair of outdoor (Bose environmental 251) speakers too that were driven by the same bose unit. If I have to scrap it and start over, can you recommend a something? E: I tried the optical input but the remote doesn’t work to assign the optical input something something. I looked into getting g a new remote but it’s old so I figured I’d just replace the whole thing E E: ok so looks like the consensus is to start over. Can I get some recommendations? I have a TV that i plug a fire stick into. I'd also like to drive two external speakers on the patio. (They're currently the Bose, but I guess I can replace them). How is this system? Klipsch Reference Theater Pack 5.1 Surround Sound System Bundle with Pioneer VSX-LX303 9.2-Channel 4k Ultra HD Network A/V Receiver Proust Malone fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Mar 1, 2020 |
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Mar 1, 2020 02:54
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Anyone have experience with the Klipsch R-41SA atmos speakers? There's a local sale on them and I'm wondering if they're worth replacing my current, very modest, Atmos speakers with.
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Mar 2, 2020 19:28
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Looks like Sonos changed their mind on that stupid trade-in program that bricked your old device.
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Mar 5, 2020 23:36
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thank you internet complainers o7
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Mar 5, 2020 23:50
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This will do nothing unless they let them be endpoints for opensqueeze or something. Once the sonos app stops supporting the hardware they won’t do anything.
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Mar 6, 2020 01:22
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Is there such a thing as a set of active speakers, maximum dimension approx 400x400x280mm or so (HxWxD), that will act as a sound bar (HDMI in and out)?
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Mar 11, 2020 17:17
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bolind posted:Is there such a thing as a set of active speakers, maximum dimension approx 400x400x280mm or so (HxWxD), that will act as a sound bar (HDMI in and out)? What is your use case? I'm having trouble understanding exactly what you're looking for. Maybe I'm just an idiot 
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Mar 11, 2020 20:53
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bolind posted:Is there such a thing as a set of active speakers, maximum dimension approx 400x400x280mm or so (HxWxD), that will act as a sound bar (HDMI in and out)? I haven't seen active speakers with ARC yet and for some reason there's no such thing as a dumb box that accepts HDMI ARC and spits out optical or RCA. Probably something to do with licensing fees. A small/cheap AV receiver is probably the closest option. For now optical out from the TV is your best bet, plenty of speakers available and some might even have auto power on/off.
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Mar 11, 2020 22:17
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Optical out will not have volume control which may be a deal breaker.
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Mar 11, 2020 22:23
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DoLittle posted:Optical out will not have volume control which may be a deal breaker. A lot of the better powered speakers have remote controls. The absolute most minimal solutions I can think of are sadly pretty expensive: the Sonos Amp, Bluesound Node 2i, NAD M10. It's weird that even the expensive stuff like the KEF LS50 wireless don't have ARC.
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Mar 11, 2020 22:39
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qirex posted:I haven't seen active speakers with ARC yet and for some reason there's no such thing as a dumb box that accepts HDMI ARC and spits out optical or RCA. Probably something to do with licensing fees. J-Tech Digital 4K 60HZ HDMI Audio Extractor Converter SPDIF + 3.5MM Output Supports HDMI 2.0, 18Gpbs Bandwidth, HDCP 2.2, Dolby Digital/DTS Passthrough CEC, HDR10 [JTD18G-H5CH] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074HHSJVN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8rAAEb64NK64Q This should work if you connect it to the arc port. I’m phone posting but that box is $40ish.
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Mar 12, 2020 03:58
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TheWevel posted:J-Tech Digital 4K 60HZ HDMI Audio Extractor Converter SPDIF + 3.5MM Output Supports HDMI 2.0, 18Gpbs Bandwidth, HDCP 2.2, Dolby Digital/DTS Passthrough CEC, HDR10 [JTD18G-H5CH] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074HHSJVN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8rAAEb64NK64Q I instinctively assumed that all sub-$100 no name amazon boxes will not work properly. Read the one star reviews from actual humans instead of Chinese robots: handshake issues, tinted video, turning itself off and on, etc. qirex fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Mar 12, 2020 |
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Mar 12, 2020 17:38
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The amazon mobile app doesn't make it easy to read reviews, but for what it's worth, I've used a lot of j-tech stuff for various work things and they worked fine. Primarily it's been to get around HDCP (cable boxes into an sdi video router) but as with any cheap Chinese video device, your mileage will vary.
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Mar 12, 2020 19:42
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qirex posted:I instinctively assumed that all sub-$100 no name amazon boxes will not work properly. Read the one star reviews from actual humans instead of Chinese robots: handshake issues, tinted video, turning itself off and on, etc. I've used like 4 of these sort of cheap boxes with no issues. Speaking of HDMI boxes...will one of those EDID manager things let me tell my Shield TV that yes, my TV supports 50Hz? When I used to use a HTPC I had to set up a custom resolution in the AMD drivers, but of course I can't do that on a Shield.
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Mar 12, 2020 19:42
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I've seen people reprogram the EDID data in a monitor for that reason (which requires a lot of model specific info), I imagine the right EDID manager thingy would be able to do it.
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Mar 12, 2020 20:21
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Thermopyle posted:I've used like 4 of these sort of cheap boxes with no issues.
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Mar 12, 2020 20:41
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I have a pair of Axiom M3Tis connected to a NAD 3020 v2 in a small listening environment (400 sq ft studio apartment). I'd like to add a subwoofer, but have never owned one before. Stupid questions: -Any recommendations on what I should get? -How do I connect the sub to the NAD? The NAD has a 3.5mm stereo mini as its sub jack, but most of the subs I see have all sorts of different connections on them - mostly RCA and speaker wire.
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Mar 16, 2020 19:17
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I bought some new upfiring Atmos speakers and realized that my speaker cable is too thick, I managed to squish (some of) it into the opening and sound does come out of the speaker but I'm not sure if this is detrimental to audio quality and if I need new cables.
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Mar 16, 2020 19:27
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Incessant Excess posted:I bought some new upfiring Atmos speakers and realized that my speaker cable is too thick, I managed to squish (some of) it into the opening and sound does come out of the speaker but I'm not sure if this is detrimental to audio quality and if I need new cables. Do they not have holes for banana plugs? My immediate response is "It's an up firing atmos speaker. It's going to sound like poo poo, even properly installed. So who cares?" But also, you really want to make sure that any stray wires from the speaker cable don't touch because that could kill your amp or at least make it go into circuit protection mode if you have that. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Mar 16, 2020 |
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Mar 16, 2020 19:31
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