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Yeah, sorry to leave that fact out, I did that, and driving it for half an hour will charge up enough juice to start the car right after the drive, but then 2-3 days later it's unwilling to even click, it's so dead. I am wondering if maybe it's just a faulty battery that I should get warrantied before the year runs out because I can't think of anything on the car that'd be pulling any power while it's sitting, it has literally no features, and I can't imagine that SoCal winter temps are variant enough to murder a relatively unused battery in a year. Luckily I have a couple $50 chinese battery start packs, it's been a pain in the balls to start on its own for a couple weeks now and getting worse but those things are godsends.
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Feb 21, 2020 00:32
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You have parasitic draw most likely. Something is draining the battery. All you need is is a multimeter. https://youtu.be/KF1gijj03_0
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Feb 21, 2020 01:36
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um excuse me posted:My 96 hell Miata ended up not liking the new lifters. loving God drat piece of poo poo. They're deflated and not inflating. No oil pressure in the top end. The oil pressure sender shows pressure. I'm completely out of ideas. I've replaced the oil pump, and there's oil in the head, so I don't know what's working, what isn't I've fallen completely into madness, started asking the internet of all places for help. Like, not here, for help. I got a suggestion to check the head gasket. Did any of you know you could out an NA gasket on upside down? Because nobody told me.  Can you spot the smoking gun?   Anyways shits off, gotta clean it and put it all back together. I'm pretty sure I have to manually refill the lash adjusters to get the air out.
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Feb 24, 2020 23:53
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Seeing as you just did it, how hard is it to get the engine out without the transmission attached? I've never seen anyone do it with just the engine. Also what harbor fright hoist did you use? E: I'm leaving my idiot comment up. I just noticed you used the hoist to pull the head? It can't be that heavy, can it?
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Feb 25, 2020 19:04
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The hoist is an aid so I can double and triple check around the head to make sure everything is disconnected and out of the way while the head is in the air. I'm sure leaning over and lifting that up isn't good for your back either, of which mine is bad. As for pulling the engine without the trans, you have to basically disassemble the starter mount which isn't easy to reach. But I wouldn't be worried about pulling it out more than putting it in, assuming you were somehow able to reach the bolts on top of the bell housing to begin with. Lining it all back up would be a nightmare. Having pulled the engine out of this car 3 times now, I say take the time and take it out connected. After you do it once, it all goes much faster. The first time I did it must have taken 40-60 hours The second time was 16 hours. That's out, rebuilt, and reinstalled.
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Feb 25, 2020 19:22
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Gonna post again? Sure. Got the sanding block and straight edge today.
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Feb 28, 2020 00:54
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Do NB2 Miatas have the same crank (or is it cam?) sensor problems the NB1 has?
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Feb 28, 2020 17:37
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Cam and yes
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Feb 28, 2020 19:10
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Oh well. Going to look at a low mileage NB2 tomorrow, if the price is right I'm gonna grab it I think.
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Feb 28, 2020 19:36
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It's like $50 and a bolt right on top of the valve cover. vOv
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Feb 28, 2020 20:29
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Phone posted:It's like $50 and a bolt right on top of the valve cover. vOv Yep - definitely not a deal killer by any means
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Feb 28, 2020 22:21
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More head progress. This is for my sanity. I know it's on correctly now.   Looks like it'll be running later today, barring any issues.
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Feb 29, 2020 06:07
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Never stop posting. 
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Feb 29, 2020 07:32
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Goober Peas posted:Yep - definitely not a deal killer by any means Oh yeah I know it's not, just making sure so I know to buy an extra one to keep in the car if i get it. For some reason I thought only the NB1 had the issue, no big deal. [e] if I can get the seller to respond, apparently he doesn't give a poo poo if he sells it or not. asks me if we can reschedule then nothing. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Feb 29, 2020 |
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Feb 29, 2020 16:06
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Miata's running again. Had to open it back up to check timing, find a fuel leak, and find a large oil leak Found the oil leak.  Found the fuel leak:   Timing was fine, I had a weird sounding idle and I think I forgot a vacuum line on the last assembly. Now there's only a small oil leak from the oil filter. Manageable, will probably have Mazda look at it while they do the alignment.
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Mar 10, 2020 00:34
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Ugh. My NB overheated today on the highway for the second time. After the first time I replaced the radiator cap with the cap from my (dead) NA. Seemed to work fine until I was pretty much on the exact same stretch of highway and gauge started climbing again. Both times I pulled over with 10s of the gauge climing past halfway, with it quickly climbing towards the right as I stopped. Let engine cool down, reseated radiator cap. Drove home relatively slowly and gauge sat at the normal position the whole time. Same symptoms both times, coolant starts boiling in the overflow and shooting out the vent tube. Coolant level is not low, radiator is still full. Do not see any leaks anywhere. Does not appear to be any change in color/oil in the coolant. Does not appear to be any air in the system/it was burped. I ordered a new OEM radiator cap. What are the chances my first cap was bad, and my replacement cap was also just not up to the task? I don't think either were OEM. Don't know how old the caps were, but my NB is 20 years old and my NA 26 years old.
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Mar 10, 2020 20:06
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Mazda made way too many automatic Miatas. Every time I run across what I think is a great deal it turns out to be a slushbox 
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Mar 10, 2020 21:13
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Elysium posted:Ugh. My NB overheated today on the highway for the second time. After the first time I replaced the radiator cap with the cap from my (dead) NA. Seemed to work fine until I was pretty much on the exact same stretch of highway and gauge started climbing again. ambient temp? fans working? undertray in place? last time the radiator was replaced? last time the water pump was replaced?
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Mar 10, 2020 22:06
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Mazda made way too many automatic Miatas. Every time I run across what I think is a great deal it turns out to be a slushbox Manual swap
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Mar 10, 2020 23:07
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Nodoze posted:Manual swap Nah been there done that not worth it. I'll just wait 
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Mar 10, 2020 23:08
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Phone posted:ambient temp? fans working? undertray in place? last time the radiator was replaced? last time the water pump was replaced? Temp was about 60, pretty sure the fans work (wouldn't it overheat not driving on the highway if they didn't?). Don't think the radiator or water pump have been replaced, car only has 60k miles.
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Mar 10, 2020 23:16
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Elysium posted:Temp was about 60, pretty sure the fans work (wouldn't it overheat not driving on the highway if they didn't?). Don't think the radiator or water pump have been replaced, car only has 60k miles. your 15 to 21 year old car has 10 to 16 years worth of deferred maintenance e: you also didn't answer my question about the undertray e2: did you just fill the entire thing with antifreeze with no water? Phone fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Mar 10, 2020 |
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Mar 10, 2020 23:21
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um excuse me posted:Miata's running again. Had to open it back up to check timing, find a fuel leak, and find a large oil leak Just wanted to say congrats on getting the car back up and running 👍. Pretty rad stuff. Were your cam seals toast or did they actually back themselves out?
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Mar 10, 2020 23:50
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They didn't feel great, seemed pretty brittle. I replaced both while I was in there. Drove it 6 miles on the highway today to get it to Mazda. The coolant temp gauge wasn't operating, there's some sort of exhaust leak, the oil leak is actually a coolant leak, and an engine light that I haven't read yet. A wheel or two need to be rebalanced as well. The list never shrinks it seems, but at least the engine is square.
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Mar 11, 2020 01:54
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Phone posted:your 15 to 21 year old car has 10 to 16 years worth of deferred maintenance Seriously just do a full TB/wp/radiator job. It's like $200 for all of it
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Mar 11, 2020 04:15
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 New car! New car leaking day 1 by the front right tire (pretty sure it’s.. water) https://youtu.be/_HwIj4AtFOc https://youtu.be/T_VacvFbu-g Any pointers?
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Mar 12, 2020 02:30
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were you driving with the AC on? e: amazing parking job
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Mar 12, 2020 03:14
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Phone posted:were you driving with the AC on? In fairness, it is a handicapped spot 
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Mar 12, 2020 04:11
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Thom ZombieForm posted:
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Mar 12, 2020 05:03
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Mazda wants $1000 for a new radiator and another $1000 to replace the oil cooler. So thread, who makes your favorite of each for an NA8? Should I just go with an aftermarket oil cooler kit? How easy is it to delete the factory cooler?
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Mar 12, 2020 12:43
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I replaced the radiator on my friends NB a real oem denso unit for about $80, was fairly easy. My NA8 has a ~500 mishimoto unit and its extremely beefy and cool.
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Mar 12, 2020 13:22
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I've heard great things by Mishimoto extending past Mazdas. Since I don't plan on turboing the car, their performance option (MMRAD-MIA-90) looks pretty appealing. For the oil cooler, I'll start with a new gasket and get more drastic from there, since a new one is over $300.
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Mar 12, 2020 13:33
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$2000 for that bullshit? Is the cooler dead or is the bigass o-ring on the back of it? I got the o-ring for like $12 (part number KL0114702A)and the radiator for $80 at o'reilly, nothing special. Getting the oil cooler off in the car is kindof a bitch just to get the coolant lines off of it, but afterwards it just spins off. Radiator was a piece of cake. Sadly heaters are no longer available, but you can find them on ebay (part number BPE8-14-700) but they're big money for what they are.
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Mar 12, 2020 13:40
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get a plastic OE radiator buy an ultrasonic cleaner or something for the oil warmer plate if you're having issues with it
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Mar 12, 2020 14:11
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Changing ball joints is the devil. I kid you not this is the rusult of roughly 8 hours in the garage today. Those videos that show people tapping their ball joints out with 3 swift hits of a 3lbs hammer are loving liars. I bought a 3 lbs hammer and a pickle fork and I still can't get these bastards separated. So much for having my new coilovers on this weekend. What's the go-to to prevent these things from being so difficult to remove in the future? Should I grease the bore of the ball joint to prevent coroding? I'm going to have to put these Tiens back on when I sell the car and I am not doing this fight twice. 
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Mar 15, 2020 01:04
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Diametunim posted:Changing ball joints is the devil. I kid you not this is the rusult of roughly 8 hours in the garage today. Those videos that show people tapping their ball joints out with 3 swift hits of a 3lbs hammer are loving liars. You could put a thin layer of anti-seize on them. To get the current ones out you should use a torch on the knuckle to expand the metal and break the grip. I've used air hammer pickle forks before as well. If the balljoints are good you can leave those together and just disconnect the sway bar and pull the big long upper arm bolts out when replacing shocks. That's what I always do on Miatas.
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Mar 15, 2020 03:13
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New hotness.  Also replaced the three coolant hoses going to/coming from it. Still waiting on the seal for the oil heater. I should know better than to have thought AutoZone could deliver it on time.
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Mar 15, 2020 05:13
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Diametunim posted:Changing ball joints is the devil. I kid you not this is the rusult of roughly 8 hours in the garage today. Those videos that show people tapping their ball joints out with 3 swift hits of a 3lbs hammer are loving liars. I wound up using a ball joint press on mine, there wasn't a hope in hell otherwise.
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Mar 15, 2020 18:27
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Things I'll always pay a mechanic to do for $500, Alex.
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Mar 15, 2020 20:02
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| # ? Apr 27, 2024 11:33 |
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Diametunim posted:Changing ball joints is the devil. I kid you not this is the rusult of roughly 8 hours in the garage today. Those videos that show people tapping their ball joints out with 3 swift hits of a 3lbs hammer are loving liars. 
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Mar 15, 2020 20:47
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