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rifles posted:That camper is cool as poo poo. Curious if you had any issues with getting it secured down on the flatbed? He threw in these andersen pucks and chocks which made loading easy.  Tomarse posted:Get some interior photos please. Nothin' structural as its aluminum framed. if it were wood I would have walked. Here's some interior shots.   So the cabinet David is standing next to is our first attack. there's some soft paneling behind it. The bunk area is probably the worst. The ceiling in the bathroom is another Behind the fridge and respectively behind the sink/tv cabinet.  He stripped out the cabinet while I stripped down the bunk area. There's a single layer of plywood left, it's adhered to the foam insulation, won't come out with a fight. hit it with some killz and move on. This window is gonna need to come out and get rebuilt. They all do. It's not a big deal, 47 screws and 20' of seal.   rdb posted:My 2018 3500 has 3 leafs and an overload. I bet the spring pack on donkey looks like it came out of a semi. Payload stuff... 4 pack + overload + factory helper spring. Front is a 2 pack. Both front and rear are 3" wide springs. Pack rating is 6820 rear. 4410 front. tire rating is 7050/axle Sterling Visteon junker rearend is rated for 9750, and a D60 front is 6500 respectively. Upfitter never fixed the gvwr ratings, so David and I with a tent on the back is about at the gvwr. Sounds about right for a ford diesel with vacuum brakes. That was fixed. Using the rear axle + tire rating I'm good to play with about 4200lb. Staying within the spring limits is 3960. The camper in that picture is about 3400lb with the shitters full, gray tank, fresh water, LP, and batteries. Dry is 2900. That's going to get significantly altered as we tear poo poo out and replace it. There's a scale nearby so I'll be scaling it when it's done. E: rifles posted:
cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Apr 18, 2020 |
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Mar 22, 2020 17:32
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Man, I've seen that seat fabric pattern in what must be a million trailers. Was there only one supplier for this kind of thing?
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Mar 22, 2020 17:50
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Man, I've seen that seat fabric pattern in what must be a million trailers. Was there only one supplier for this kind of thing? RV interiors are all designed by the same group of people. They have been kept in an underground bunker since the early 70s and only have access to design catalogs that are at minimum 20 years out of date.
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Mar 22, 2020 18:02
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I love camper/RV projects! Please keep it updating. I watch too many #vanlife videos on YouTube which has given me “own a camper” brain worms.
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Mar 24, 2020 13:00
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You could free up a bunch of inside space if you choose to make your cooker and sink live outside in a permanent awning type structure. Assuming you are happy not having a 'proper' oven. But you might also want to keep everything contained. Like this: 
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Mar 25, 2020 01:34
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Motronic posted:RV interiors are all designed by the same group of people. They have been kept in an underground bunker since the early 70s and only have access to design catalogs that are at minimum 20 years out of date. Seriously. The electrical system in this camper is straight outta the 70s. They never update poo poo. beep-beep car is go posted:I love camper/RV projects! Please keep it updating. I watch too many #vanlife videos on YouTube which has given me “own a camper” brain worms. I'm gonna post camper progress here For a firehose of the project, go here Anphear posted:You could free up a bunch of inside space if you choose to make your cooker and sink live outside in a permanent awning type structure. Assuming you are happy not having a 'proper' oven. But you might also want to keep everything contained. I'd like to keep it self contained. I'm torn on tearing out the oven cause making bread fuckin rules. If it were to go, induction would go in its place. Some Truck stuff! Last year I printed the driver's door handle in PETG. It's still holding up and it's so much nicer than the original. The cad file was flipped and printed for a rainy day project. That rainy day is here.  It's not a perfect match though it'll do. The bracket was modeled off of a very busted left handle. The old gross farm foam goes right into the bin after spreading hantavirus onto your workbench and PC's keyboard. Be sure to take in the smells. Get your favorite x-acto knife and cut  Measure once, cut 45 times. Repeat until frustrated. The vinyl cover needs to be free and clear of all things hantavirus contaminated. An old pan scouring pad or something along those lines will work. Loctite makes this vinyl, fabric & plastic trim adhesive that is flexible. This stuff rules. Get some. Glue it together, use extra medical bandage tape from the foam project to hold the frame together.  Let it sit overnight, remove the tape, and go sling it back into the vehicle. Now is a good time to ignore the door clips.  On the topic of measure once, cut twice. The flatbed was reconfigured to work with these   Actual projects list as of now for things that I can think of. 1. the gauges. The micropython project stalled out cause python2.7 can eat blown headgasket sludge. which means 2. Find a suitable display or something drivable that works in all lighting conditions. I have a literal box of stm32s with rather nice built in ADCs. go this route. The RV will have can bus, this should too. 3. the ancient cooling system probably should get looked at 4. lugnuts, would want fully enclosed ones. more threads engaged, more better. 5. There's a york compressor from the gillig laying around. On board air is kinda needed for 37" tires... Find a home for it and cobble some brackets. Donno what to do about an air tank yet.
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Mar 26, 2020 16:21
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cursedshitbox posted:
quote:5. There's a york compressor from the gillig laying around. On board air is kinda needed for 37" tires... Find a home for it and cobble some brackets. Donno what to do about an air tank yet.
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Mar 27, 2020 00:46
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cursedshitbox posted:Actual projects list as of now for things that I can think of. Anti-archival bumpage 1. Here's a video of some progress: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfOVCSqyoUA 2. no progress there outside of rolling some modifications into a 20x4 panel like in the above. 3. Haven't hosed with that 4. Ordered some on ebay, they showed up hosed up, sent em back, USPS lost em and I never got a refund for it. 5. Lol this has escalated into a $500 project to use a york compressor. There's 110V on the truck at all times, so uhh that'll be an easier route to just plug it in. Down that rabbithole of power... 200A+ Leese Neville alternator?
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May 21, 2020 17:44
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cursedshitbox posted:Anti-archival bumpage you spell "gauges" correctly you can stay!
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May 21, 2020 21:14
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cursedshitbox posted:Anti-archival bumpage That's awesome! Details?
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May 22, 2020 14:25
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It's all running on an esp32 right now. The ADCs on em are kinda meh though it natively supports bluetooth/wifi/can-bus MPU9050 accelerometer gyroscope knockoff (gy-521) that'll be used as an inclinometer. There's a bmp280 under it for temp/pressure which is used for boost gauge altitude compensation. (this builds on code that is in there now that originally used a constant (pressure at sealevel)... go up in altitude, it'd read erroneously) MCP2561 will be the CAN interface controller. I gotta build some dummy CAN modules to test this and haven't had the chance yet. The boards all reside on removable cards, I can go in and upgrade when it's required and this will all get mounted somewhere easier to get at. The current board is buried deep in the dash and every time I go in to update its code I gotta take the center stack apart. The plastic is getting mighty old and I don't want that stuff broken. In all likelihood it'll get mounted below the cluster where a huge kick panel drops out. With an ESP this will allow for over the air updates which will allow for even less mechanical disturbance of the interior. Some of its outputs will be to trigger the dash warning lamp and door chime for anything critical to the engine (think high EGTs, low fuel pressure, etc) The light is fairly easy as there's already an indicator in place for low voltage/oil pressure/high coolant temp. The chime itself is easy and fairly loud as it was reconditioned sometime last year. (transistor to switch a ground and send it) Inputs: I'd like to get a vss (there's one in the xfer and the rear diff) plugged into it to send to the camper over CAN as the camper has GPS. Some analog sensors like fuel pressure, flow, fuel tank levels, coolant, rear differential, trans, and engine oil temps. Tach is gonna be a side project of its own. its read off of the bullhead gears at the injection pump and runs to a processing board on the back of the cluster. Pretty sure I can break that out and send it to the computer. I also need to sniff the usb ports on the mirror as that can open a whole new world of fuckery if I can poll the front/rear cameras.
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May 22, 2020 16:05
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Incremental progress! Ported the project to the STM32. ADCs aren't working yet though everything else up to this point is running fine. As soon as I figure that out this project will be ready for installation. So far I have one input on the ADC working so I'm not far off the mark. Only need 8 more. Here's a setup using a potentiometer to flip the onboard leds on and off https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_hIhtHgHn4 This project was useful enough I'm porting parts of it to a moto project as well using an eink display.
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Jun 13, 2020 17:51
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cursedshitbox posted:Anti-archival bumpage what is the knob / input device you're using here? looks neat.
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Jun 13, 2020 18:53
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generic rotary encoder with a bakelite knob from some vintage amateur radio stuff.
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Jun 13, 2020 20:46
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cursedshitbox posted:Incremental progress! Ported the project to the STM32. ADCs aren't working yet though everything else up to this point is running fine. As soon as I figure that out this project will be ready for installation. U P D A T E. ADCs working. Not just one. All of them. We're talking the dashboard of a peterbilt levels of gauges. Did the E-ink thing, got it refreshing at a significant clip. Software progress all around! Next week I'm either gonna perfboard this poo poo like I've done forever, or actually put some sweaquity in and get a kickin rad purple pcb. I need to get can-bus for cruise control/throttle control, camper chat, however there's an elephant to address in the room. As per the camper thread. The camper is heavy. ultra loving heavy. I've been anticipating this since eh, May, and have been working on this as a side project. I have 10 options. I'll condense them down into something more manageable for a project thread. 1. Sell this truck, buy a F450/F550, 7.3/4x4/6mt. There's no other loadout i'm interested in unless it has a 6.7PSD which is way outside of what I want to spend for a truck. This is an enormous pain in my rear end living in CA as they have a retrofit rule for trucks with a gvr over 14k that costs as much as the truck does. I could try to push the line that it is a "personal vehicle", however with the trucks of this size you get pushed towards commercial insurance. A hassle. Lastly, mount the camper to it permanently, and have it re-registered as a RV. Not really my thing, cause this truck would have to go, and I need a truck that does truck things. Not a low-buck Earthroamer. I also know this truck. I'm not too fond of having to baseline something new on a cramped timeline. However, it still doesn't have a home for the spare, cruise, aircon, and the bench kills my back. 2. Air suspension front and rear. 2klb front, 5klb rear. Remove and sell the H2 wheels/K02s. Replace with this and this I'm not fond of these wheels. However they're the highest rated ones I've found. Including options in steel. If you know of a better alternative that keeps a ~17",  . I've exhaustively looked around for wheel/tire combos and this is about the best I've found that slips in, and also keeps the truck on a decent sized tire. The H2 wheels on it have no published rating, and I don't trust them at the end of the day to stand up to my kind of abuse.Weight capacity out back goes from 7050 to 8600. That'll grease the wheels of progress, though a little on the light side with 1360lb available for our junk including more solar. This effectively makes this truck comparable to a drw F350. This is the way I'll probably go. Side note. the Cab Chassis 350 supposedly uses the same rear end whether its single or dual rear wheel. (the 10.25/10.5 pickup axle uses the same hubs, the housing is longer/shorter). There is a possibility to convert this to drw, though the bed will need to go or get redesigned. nope. Of which, I'm gonna remove the tailgate as that saves about 50lb. I'm not worried about the 10.25 @ 8600lb, not with 1/2" thick 3" OD tubes and oil lubricated wheel bearings the same size used on a deuce and a half. I solved one of the two weak spots by deleting the crush sleeve. The other? Crank on the pinion regularly. the 10.5 is rated at 9750lb, though this is its older, crustier, sibling. 3. Bags, rear springs, DRW hubs on the front 60. swap the Sterling 10.25 for a Dana 80. 8x65 to standard 10 hole/8x225-F450/F550 adapters + 19.5 wheels, then these emt/fire tires Pricey. Ups the capacity to 5560lb additional over what the camper weighs now. The rgawr would be 12800. fagwr is limited to 6410. It'll be a 450-lite at that point in that it'll have all the goodies of the F-superduty brethren of the era without the odd 10-lug wheels and 9-ton rated leaf springs. This is kind of getting excessive for this truck IMO, but I'll keep goin for posterity sake. 4. Varying degrees of $CubicDollars$ and CubicEffort. 99-05 f450 axles, or ideally 05+ WIdetrack 450 axles, the full coil sprung suspension, 20" super singles, and MPT80/81 tires. This nets 6318lb over what the camper weighs now. A total rgawr of 13558lb, fgawr rated at 7000lb. 3 and 4 cost within $100 of each other, totaling more than I paid for the truck 4 years ago, with 2 being less than half that. When the camper is done, it gets reweighed, and this truck becomes the new project. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Jul 18, 2020 |
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Jul 18, 2020 03:17
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Why not option 2 air bags, plus the 19.5" super singles from option 3? I have a lot more faith in that commercial wheel/tire package to hold up. At your weight, the tire will probably dry rot before needing replaced from wear. Weakest link at that point is your axle and it's not exactly a bad axle. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Jul 18, 2020 |
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Jul 18, 2020 14:38
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angryrobots posted:Why not option 2 air bags, plus the 19.5" super singles from option 3? I have a lot more faith in that commercial wheel/tire package to hold up. At your weight, the tire will probably dry rot before needing replaced from wear. I could find tons of wheels in the 19.5x6-7" range, not much in the 8"+ range on a 8.6x5. There's a few manufacturers for the medium duty patterns however. The one 8x6.5 I'm aware of is 1st attack and it's a 20" which means going to the MPT80/81 tire. The standard 8x6.5 to 8x225 or 8x6.5 to 10hole budd don't provide much in the way of thickness requiring a second spacer or swapping the hubs. The reason for the hub swap is the super singles run no offset. The H2 wheels on it now are around 5.25" which leave no room for airbags. DRW hubs move the flange 4" outwards. Going to a drw front hub means new rotors, not really a big deal. The rear end is kind of the wild west in that there's no real solid information outside of measuring and adapting. The trucks on super singles flip the rear out, which would be fine on this application if the bed gets notched to fit the new tire combo and a fender built around the tire.
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Jul 18, 2020 15:44
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I see. gently caress. 
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Jul 18, 2020 16:12
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The AI solution? HEMTT. https://portland.craigslist.org/yam/hvo/d/dundee-hemtt-crane-truck-8x8-oshkosh/7159788515.html  E: not a cat fan, LMTV for 12 thou. https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/d/las-vegas-98-stewart-stevenson-lmtv/7145315662.html 
cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Jul 18, 2020 |
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Jul 18, 2020 16:23
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You seem to have invested plenty of quality time in this truck. Keep it and beef it up to suit the camper. Better the devil you know... Have you driven it to a weighbridge and got the actual weights of the camper and truck so you know exactly what you are dealing with? cursedshitbox posted:U P D A T E. ADCs working. Not just one. All of them. We're talking the dashboard of a peterbilt levels of gauges. Did the E-ink thing, got it refreshing at a significant clip. Software progress all around! Is there a super simple and cheap project write up somewhere on how to build some basic can gauges? I've got can output off my megasquirt and I want a couple of simple gauges.
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Jul 18, 2020 17:13
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Tomarse posted:You seem to have invested plenty of quality time in this truck. Keep it and beef it up to suit the camper. Better the devil you know... That's one of my arguments. The devil I know versus the rear end in a top hat I don't. There's not a whole lotta time left in this year to baseline a whole new truck. Yup.  Loaded on the left, Unloaded on the right. Both are with full tanks of fuel. Fuckin lmao the whole kit is nearly 6 tons without me in it. Kastein would know more on the topic than I do. There's a buncha libraries out there for reading CAN data. You could take whatever microcontroller with a transceiver and blit CAN pids to a display using that. Pomp and Circumcized's RX7 electrothread would be another to visit as they built a new digidash for the car which owns.
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Jul 18, 2020 17:39
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Some incremental progress. I designed a nice pcb for the computer upgrade. Kept having this nagging feeling something is wrong. Ok I'll make a board on perfboard to scribble it in, then get the nice smd laden board fabricated and swap em out. yep, found the problem. I'm trying to pile 10lb of poo poo into a 5lb enclosure. It's just not possible no matter how I stack it. Enter the scope creep. I also have a RGB backlit display working now using the APA102 leds. I need to get a gray lcd instead of blue though. I'm currently watching these two headunits. This one is from a W210 E320  This is one from a new Sprinter.  Both are from mershitties and its contents aren't relevant. What is relevant is that I can cram my 20x4 lcd in there and re purpose the buttons. The one from the E320 is a tape deck and the lcd flips down. I'd gut all that and 3d print some modparts to house the new lcd. Downside is integrating the truck's computer with the trucks bluetooth radio. It seems wonky to me to have radio and computer functions on the same panel. Upside is the control buttons are labeled well on the PCB and would make for an easy reverse engineering project. The sprinter headunit would be more amicable to this idea however it has fewer buttons for future upgradeability. I can build a daughterboard to interface the right knob and some of the pushbuttons for the radio, and the left knob and a couple buttons for the truck computer. If I had the dash space i'd drop the double din ML320 nav system in after it was thoroughly gutted. Not gonna scope creep that bad though.  That's a 5" lcd for reference sake. Some actual hardware progress that's related to the too-heavy camper. I've added a hitch to the front to hang the spare, highlift, and cargo basket off of.  The tailgate was also removed.  Next week or weekend sometime when it's not 100F and I can run the welder I'll flip the pin so that the tailgate is removable when opened, and the hinge will sit just shy of the deck so it's not stabbing the camper. This removes 73lb from the rear of the truck. The 5th wheel plate is also removable, so I'll yoink that and weigh it too. Soonish new tires, wheels, airbags go on order. The computer is the most pressing thing at the moment as I have less than 90 days to get something up and running. CAN isn't a priority at the moment as the camper has shifted off using it, however I do need it to interface with future GM modules like cruise control.
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Aug 16, 2020 21:54
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I am totally on board with "old truck containing a surprising amount of tech", and I appreciate your efforts to make it as OEM-like as possible (repurposing an existing head unit, for example.) That's pretty neat.
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Aug 18, 2020 15:25
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Posting in here since my usual googling isn't returning anything helpful - I took my 89 7.3 out for my recent elopement and halfway to our destination the speedo, odo, and trip meters all conked out. Tach still works. Where should I even start looking? I thought it might be a fuse of some sort but the list underneath the dash didn't say anything about gauges. Truck forums can't seem to agree where the problem might be.
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Aug 19, 2020 17:59
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All three of those would be tied to the same input, so the input is the most likely culprit. Do these have a speed sensor or is that run off of a gear?
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Aug 19, 2020 18:12
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Given how old it is, I'm guessing it's a mechanical speedo cable driving it, though I have no direct experience with those years of Ford. Did the speedo jump and wave for a while before quitting? If so the cable is likely bad or the speedo gear wasn't correctly clocked for the tooth count that was installed.
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Aug 19, 2020 18:37
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Cable driven. Check for a broken cable drive. Gear could strip though that's indicative of bigger problems. Takes about 5 mins to pull the sender on the tcase side. Cluster takes about 20 to remove. Cable is routed up between the brake and throttle pedal.
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Aug 19, 2020 19:05
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Re: wheels / tires Toyo M-608Z in a 285/70R19.5 (max 6395lbs) Rickson 19.5x7.50 wheels (p/n 1194-1668-68-X) (max 5000lbs) Nets you another ~1400 lbs over the methods / 37s for about a $100 a corner. https://ricksontruckwheels.com/wheels-ford-srw.php https://ricksontruckwheels.com/tires-28570R195.php
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Aug 20, 2020 18:01
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Their customer service is known to be a shitshow. I had the capacity to deal with that kinda thing with the turbo and the hydroboost unit as they were comparatively cheap items in a world of pre covid. now less so. With a few shipments currently lost to a blackhole, another badly damaged, and one sent to Puerto Rico, I don't have the available stress capacity to send four plus thousand dollars off into the great unknown with a company that has been known to dawdle around. Yep this limiting myself further, I'm well aware. 2020's game is roll with the punches, and right now I'm rolling with the punches the best I can. Getting parts from 4WheelParts is preferred over even Amazon at this point. Originally I had planned to have this stuff ordered by now so that I could have a fat runway to land on. Thanks to the GOP ransacking our postal system I just lost four weeks.
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Aug 20, 2020 20:51
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Fair enough, can't blame you for that. I looked at them for a project years ago but wound up going in a different direction, so no first hand experience. American Force also makes a 19.5x7.5 but they are $$$ and a bit bro-ey. 6600lb capacity though. Otherwise I couldn't find anything that would beat out the method hds and tires you found while staying 8x6.5 / srw. Federal tire makes a 37x12.5 with the same capacity if you wanted something narrower for suspension clearance. You've obviously done your homework though, so I'm probably not telling you anything you don't already know.
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Aug 20, 2020 22:16
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ThinkFear posted:Fair enough, can't blame you for that. I looked at them for a project years ago but wound up going in a different direction, so no first hand experience. Actually, I didn't know about the AF wheels, which, thanks for pointing those out! Their "Beast SS" model looks similar to the Alcoas that came on the OBS fords. Straight up polished wheels is a bit loud for my likes however with the M-608Z you pointed out would allow for a full 12,790lb out back, aka 9930lb of cargo capacity not taking the axle or springs into consideration. On the spicier side with 5 up running well into $5k, however I'm not loving with axles, spacers or adapters. (4whp also sells those wheels). I would need to bore the hubs out since they come with a 122mm bore since the farm truck needs a 130ish mm bore to work. The old KP60 hubs are stupid huge which really cuts down on what fits. Boring the wheels would screw with its weight capacity however i'm gonna add em to the spreadsheet as a possible solution, thanks again. Worst case I can yoink the hubs off and turn them down to fit. The method 305/37s so far have been about the best pick so far. With the different offset over the H2 wheels the bags should still fit fine. If not I'll adjust the bracketry. Hub and bore is all good, it clears the brakes, etc. I did find the Federals too, They were actually the first that I found with a higher capacity than the BFGs (3525lb/LI124). I don't have any experience with them, they're rated for 4080lb which is a load index of 129. Nitto also has a comparatively sized tire in a mud terrain with a load index like the Toyos at 4300lb/LI131. I'm completely ambivalent about Nitto vs Toyo outside of maybe the toyos will probably last a touch longer and be a touch quieter, not that 'quiet' matters in this thing. The price of the two is within a dollar.
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Aug 20, 2020 23:06
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 Just so I know to pull the right thing next week, is this the housing for the cable? I looked up in the cab between brake and throttle and they look like the same size housing. Sorry to keep hijacking your thread.
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Aug 21, 2020 16:22
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cursedshitbox posted:Originally I had planned to have this stuff ordered by now so that I could have a fat runway to land on. Thanks to the GOP ransacking our postal system I just lost four weeks. Man you ain't kidding. I went to the PO 20 minutes before open just to open a PO box (reserved online within a few minutes of getting the notification that one was finally ready... been on the waiting list since April). Line was already 10 deep, with 1 Karen ahead of me, 2 behind me making a loud racket about how long I was taking by the time I left the counter. One. Poor. Clerk. working the counter, and he was loving clueless about how to do... anything (he did say 3 were scheduled, but he was the only one who showed up). And the 2 Karens behind me making a big shitfit about me DARING to do something besides mail a letter (which is why I showed up way before open). Got in line at 8:10. Left at 9:30, and the supervisor had to come out and let me know my PO box won't actually be ready until at least tomorrow, she has to rekey over 100 PO boxes by herself before she goes home today.  Nearly everybody else in line was there to bitch about mail not showing up regularly for a few weeks - they just see the mail truck do a flyby down their street (I've seen it plenty too, just hear/see a screaming Iron Duke blow past doing about 10 mph with a cloud of Superfund behind it). I still haven't received my driver license or voter registration card at the house (actually all I've ever received here so far was one toll bill... electric, insurance, internet, etc have never shown up in the mail), though the replacements I had sent to my old PO box showed up over a month ago. But my old PO is 20 minutes away. This one is at the end of my street. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Aug 21, 2020 |
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Aug 21, 2020 17:17
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Admiral Bosch posted:
Yep that's the one. 3/8 or 7/16" bolt. I don't remember offhand. The circlip next to the connector should free the cable. The driven gear inside has its own circlip too. The connection on the back of the cluster can be a little bit of a bear to unclip. IIRC that VSS connector you see is for cruise. The one in the rear diff is for RABS. See if you can pull the drive cable out. you'll know right away if it is dead. The one on my truck used to make noise when it was "cold" and bounce the needle a bit. I pulled the drive cable out and used it to fish some bearing grease into the tube a few years ago. Haven't had an issue since. FWIW you can also update it to the 92+ OBS PSOM electronic clusters using the RABS sensor. They can be reprogrammed only a couple times so get your math correct for tire height.
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Aug 21, 2020 18:17
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Okay, cool. I don't expect this will give me too much trouble. As long as I'm picking your brain, have you had to replace the fuel sending units before? Ever since I bought this several years ago Tank 1 always reads full until it gets close to empty and then it starts bobbing around, whereas Tank 2 just always shows empty.
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Aug 21, 2020 18:21
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Nope. I don't trust em much below 1/4 tank and it'll suck air around the red E mark. The front tank SU gets fucky if I leave it parked for a while in that it won't read above 3/4 tank. Once the level hits 3/4 tank or below it reads fine all the way to empty. Usually on a trip after a tank or so it'll work correctly again. This is something that started happening this year. It hasn't annoyed me enough yet to dig into it. Otherwise they both work and are relatively accurate. RA has new units for about 100 bucks. You *might* be able to repair it. I've yet to pull the ones on this truck, I've seen the units get crapped up with barnacles or corrosion leading to em not reading right. There's some small wire that connects the resistor bar to the SU frame, that could have vibrated apart. The tank level wiring also goes through your fuel tank switching valve on the frame. Yours might be a larger pain to test than mine, I can yank the sending units without having to drop the tank because of the flatbed. You can test for an open circuit at the tank switching valve on the 6 pin connector. This is the pinout I have for the 90: Pin1: Motor pin 1 (DB-Y) Pin2: Motor pin 2 (Y-W) Pin3: Front tank sending unit input (Y-LB) Pin4: Tank sending unit to cluster (B-W) Pin5: Rear tank sending unit input (RD) Pin6: open. 10ish Ohms empty, 160ish full tank.
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Aug 21, 2020 18:45
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Okay, thanks for the advice. I think I'll probably not bother - I use my trip meter and flip tanks every 200 miles so not having the trip meter working when out in the middle of nowhere was a little bit unsettling. I put a speedo/odo app on my phone for the time being but i'd just as soon have the trip meter tell me.
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Aug 21, 2020 18:58
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After removing the tailgate I cut the hinges off, spun em, and welded them back on. The tailgate can now be removed when it is open. Though it doesn't just fall off, it'll take a few taps from a hammer to get it going. I bent the pins removing the hinge and they're not perfectly parallel though the tailgate does open smoothly.   The pins are below the deck which won't hit the camper or anything else for that matter. I should have just done this to begin with.  The front basket arrived. I've welded a highlift mount to it and soon a plate to bolt the spare tire to. Unscientifically bouncing up and down on the edge of the basket does twist the bumper a little however it doesn't dig the bumper extensions into the fender.  Currently bidding on a headunit to rebuild into an onboard computer..
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Aug 30, 2020 21:17
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Annual oil change knocked out. it's easy on big stupid vehicles and hardly worth an update. Fresh coolant and SCA to go in. Brotires and wheels on order. Fresh bushes for the swaybars and panhard ready to go in... If fuckwits would stop doing sex reveal parties. Some post worthy progress on the new computer project. here's our victim from a 2020 Mercedes Sprinter. Paid all of one dollar for it.  First lets tear it apart.  There's a treasuretrove of poo poo inside this thing. BT 4.1 controller, can bus transceiver, 45Wx4 block amplifier with SPI error reporting, 3 LDO power regulators, some LCD without a datasheet but what appears to be a parallel interface. Take it all apart to realize I can't use the 20x4 lcd without it looking like absolute rear end.  gently caress. Whatever it is fine. 16x2 lcd fits about perfect.  I'll get creative with the information displayed. It needs a power supply first off. I salvaged the linear regulator and some other parts from the camper's end of life LP detector. I have nice LDOs and such on hand but reuse is king. This dumb truck won't care.  It all works on the first go without setting the house on fire. Send it!  The enclosure is drilled with pcbs mounted on standoffs.  here's the front panel pcb with the rotary encoders removed. They're inductors which makes it a righteous party to ring out when the 50 pin connector has 15 ground planes. I'm gonna pull the pads anyway as I want these pulled to 5v for this project. The 8 front panel buttons use a 6 pin charlie plexed style array to handle which button is being pressed. and gates or an if statement can put these buttons to work for alternative uses.  Switched the lcd out for the inverted one as it ghosts less. Running through a range of colors here using an apa102 addressible. https://imgur.com/MZlmTAY Annnnd the cyanoacrylate used to locate the 3d printed alignment bracket reacted with the pc-abs housing ghosting everything.  put the parallel to serial converter on an extension header built from a pata cable. Front panel at this point is basically functional, down to the usbc connector. Fixed the ghosting as well.  First power on after plugging the front panel in. It's powered over usb in this shot.  (the acrylic cover will be reattached later in the project)   This is where the project sits currently. There's a handful of pull resistors and a few transistors that need to be added for button backlight control. Need to add a sense for the cluster light wiring. I've gotta rewrite all the display side code to work with the smaller lcd. The library for the backlight I'm using doesn't like the stm32 so I gotta hack on it till it does. I'm gonna design and build a housing for the IMU to mount it to something a little more solid than a bricknose dash to reduce errors in reading. The buttons across the bottom I'm gonna repurpose to control different parts of the truck using the two rotary encoders. For instance, the computer itself, the radio, electronic air suspension. I want to use the same two encoders across systems so there's only one real way to go about it. How will I know what subsystem is selected? Each button has its own backlight. Set a higher pwm duty cycle for the subsystem that is selected and that button will be brighter than the rest. I might replace these lights with red. I'm 1 module shy of having enough, naturally.
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Sep 11, 2020 19:19
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 22:14 |
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Aye. Owns.
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Sep 12, 2020 00:19
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