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Raluek posted:Many of the reproductions from catalogs are of visibly inferior quality compared to NOS. Back in the day I bought a number of aluminum-foil-thickness replacement fenders panels fro, JC Whitney for 70s fords........(trying to maintain a hooptie fleet of landscaping trucks) The paint was the most important structural component.
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Mar 27, 2020 05:01
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Raluek posted:Agreed with this. No experience with cjp, but I've used LMC and Macs in a pinch. Yeah, Mac's has oem part numbers in their catalogs (physical and online) that makes searching some stuff really easy. It makes poo poo like finding out that certain years of ford 390 truck motor water pumps are the same ones used on edsel pacers (which have no listings because lololol, who actually has an edsel besides two of my customers) a ton easier for me. Same with original model a parts and corvette parts. They've saved my rear end many a time.
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Mar 27, 2020 22:41
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Elmnt80 posted:Yeah, Mac's has oem part numbers in their catalogs (physical and online) that makes searching some stuff really easy. It makes poo poo like finding out that certain years of ford 390 truck motor water pumps are the same ones used on edsel pacers (which have no listings because lololol, who actually has an edsel besides two of my customers) a ton easier for me. Same with original model a parts and corvette parts. They've saved my rear end many a time. Well, what do you think FE stands for?  E: Somewhat surprised that they aren't all the same, though. Ford was big on parts interchange in the 60s, like how there was just "the V8 distributor" and it would work in an FE, a Windsor, a Y-block, whatever
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Mar 28, 2020 04:36
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Earlier today the stupid questions thread helped me find the gas tank input for my now-deceased friend's 1972 Plymouth Gran Fury. She now starts first try, after it got a splash of gas, a screwdriver in the choke, and charging the battery externally for like four hours. She's an absolute nightmare factory at the moment - steering is crazy drifty, brakes work by clapping your hands and believing in them, upholstery is shot, radio doesn't work...oh, she's a mess. I am in love. I'm going to drive a '72 Fury to the beach one day and it's gonna be absolutely absurd.
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Mar 28, 2020 04:53
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Achtane posted:Hey man, I really appreciate all the help so far. I double checked the fuel pump fuse and relay, and with the help of my dear wife, pulled the bed off. Power seems to be getting to the fuel pump, but I think it's toast. Fingers crossed that the new one will be working this weekend... Uhm. Ouch. That's probably (maybe) an evap line into an evap solenoid, if I had to guess - the fuel pressure regulator is normally on the fuel rail on this era of cars (I know my 99 Altima had it there - same engine family, but with a DOHC head and hamfisted into working in a FWD car), with a dedicated return line. Either way though, that's not helping things. Make sure to use fuel-rated hose; if that's an actual supply or return line, you'll want to use EFI rated hose (it's rated to handle EFI-level fuel system pressures vs the laughable pressure a carb setup runs). You can buy it in bulk at most parts stores, you need to know the inside diameter. Cut a bit off and take it with you to match. I highly doubt that's the reason it's not running (if it's evap related), but that's an issue that needs fixing But yeah, if the fuel pump isn't making noise when the key is turned on, it ded with a D-E-D. And you'll definitely hear it with the bed off. I had to deal with evap solenoid issues on my Altima (again, same engine family), and everything evap related was right by the tank. Really annoying to deal with, especially since a check engine light on OBD2 here = automatic fail on yearly inspection. I wound up gutting a junkyard car's evap system and shotgunning most of it, and that got rid of the CEL and gas fumes. CEL isn't an auto fail on pre-OBD2 here (they got a dyno + rear end sniff up until this year), and anything not OBD2 is now old enough to not deal with emissions tests in my state. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Mar 28, 2020 |
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Mar 28, 2020 17:07
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Your Boy Fancy posted:Earlier today the stupid questions thread helped me find the gas tank input for my now-deceased friend's 1972 Plymouth Gran Fury. I suggest you don't watch the movie "Christine" before you head out.
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Mar 28, 2020 18:24
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C-Bangin' it 
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Some ogre overtightened the oil filter on my Focus ST. Me. I'm the ogre. I had to use a screwdriver. At least it's done now.
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Mar 28, 2020 20:55
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I replaced the oil dipstick tube on my Volvo 960 so it's no longer leaking when parked on my hill of a driveway and I can get a semi-accurate reading. It still reads lower than the manual says for some reason but at least it's on the stick now.
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Mar 29, 2020 01:47
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Removed the 389 junk engine from the Sham Prix  Have a 350 I picked up to drop in and going to throw a fresh TH350/400 depending on what I can get then have a drive shaft made up. Also put up a metal carport today since my tent one collapsed in the snow last week
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Mar 29, 2020 01:47
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Got my new endlinks on, and new bushings in Then as I was torquing down the last bolt it just doesn’t stop spinning  I must have cross threaded it while pushing the holder down to get the bolt lined up. Now I’ve got to order another brace because those threads are destroyed and probably wait a week before making any more progress.
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Mar 29, 2020 05:37
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Wrar posted:Some ogre overtightened the oil filter on my Focus ST. I only use K&N Performance filters now because of the built in 1" hex on the end for just such a situation.
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Mar 29, 2020 20:58
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I bought one of those oil filter wrench kits that comes in handy almost every time I need to change the oil on a new car! Weird kei stuff and strange diesels, there is a wrench cap that fits and makes my life so, so much easier because every shop in Japan seemingly glues filters on. Just changed the oil in this today, and although the kit I just mentioned is ultra handy, it doesn't have a wrench cap that fits 'the big Toyota filter' that they use in every diesel ever  The plus side is on KZs like this the filter is right up top. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FWL73ZK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is the kit I got, probably not needed for most people BUT great for someone like me. Or everdave I suppose.
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Mar 29, 2020 22:26
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I replaced the IAC in my old 2000 Camry my sister is using while she goes to school today, the aftermarket one that was in there took a dump so I reinstalled the original 320k mile one and it's working great again. For anyone wondering I had to replace the throttle body on the car at one point and figured a lower mileage sensor would be better. Car's up to ~360k-370k miles now and looks like it'll get another timing belt at this rate. Also re-adjusted the kickdown in my Golf since the thing was shifting really hard when barely on the pedal and it seems to be better now, the adjustment is now almost to the loose end but I suspect it's just due to the trans being a different code with a possibly different adjustment range. (010-TNA vs 010-TJ). Now if I could just make it stop engine braking every time the idle switch is hit (every time I try to coast down a hill) that would be great. We also got some new seats for our Volvo 960 from a junkyard a few days ago along with some fresh carpet and other bits, these were pulled from a '98 V90 but are compatible and have lumbar adjustments! I was surprised how nice they are. 
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Mar 30, 2020 01:41
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Crossposting from the LX/Cruiser thread... I got bored waiting for my PC to try and unbreak itself on my first day of leave... And these have been in the shed since October... was going to wait till i could get all the barwork powder coated in one go but since theyre 12 nuts to remove and black down that low looks fine its not a big deal. Went from factory mediocrity and flex  To maximum clearance, minimum short missus approval rating  To shiny new ARB hotness!  There are scrub rails to go with it, but they would have looked really odd in gloss black going to a gold coloured front bar!
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Mar 30, 2020 02:36
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I HAVE hosed UP HORRIBLY AND THE WIPERS ON MY '72 FURY WILL NOT STOP GOING AT FULL SPEED AND ONE CAME OFF ENTIRELY ...all I did was touch the switch and every setting on the switch appears to be gooooooooooooooo
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Mar 30, 2020 19:28
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I have plugs and wires to do, but my propane heater's tank is empty and I'm
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Mar 30, 2020 19:34
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Minto Took posted:I have plugs and wires to do, but my propane heater's tank is empty and I'm Ugh, mine is nearly empty, it's a race between my tank of propane for the heater and 75/25 for the welder.
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Mar 30, 2020 23:03
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Honestly don’t know how I’m gonna route this 5” ‘downpipe’ anywhere. Considered doing dual dumps but drat that’s a lot of hot pipe.
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Mar 31, 2020 00:06
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Straight up?
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Mar 31, 2020 00:19
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 I am not sure if it being so far forward in the front would make visibility poo poo going in a straight line tehk fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Mar 31, 2020 |
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Mar 31, 2020 00:24
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Turn turbo 90 degrees so that exhaust inlet is pointed rearward and exhaust outlet goes to the left, giving you some more space to work with the routing?
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Mar 31, 2020 02:29
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tehk posted:
never stop going sideways. problem solved.
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Mar 31, 2020 03:46
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jamal posted:Straight up? That was my thought. Right through the hood.
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Mar 31, 2020 04:17
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:That was my thought. Right through the hood. It can't possibly be more obstructing that that scoop. I'd personally make it flush with the surface of the hood, and probably teardrop it just for looks.
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Apr 1, 2020 18:40
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Darchangel posted:It can't possibly be more obstructing that that scoop. Honestly the scoop and the exhaust pipe are not the issue. The issue is the fire. During a pass it will be shooting flames 3’ out or so https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leA4vzgjueU
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Apr 1, 2020 22:34
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Used my day off yesterday to switch out the spark plugs. Had about 25k miles on them, NGK 6510s gapped at 0.026 both old and new. No oil, they looked pretty good, but I didn't have a gapper to measure the gap on them. Cylinder 1 shown for reference. Also finally changed my RC car antenna to a stubby.     Edit: got furloughed today so maybe I'll have more car things to do!
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Apr 3, 2020 16:26
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tehk posted:Honestly the scoop and the exhaust pipe are not the issue. The issue is the fire. During a pass it will be shooting flames 3’ out or so I... had not considered that. God drat that thing sounds fantastic naturally aspirated already!
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Apr 3, 2020 23:18
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 This doesn’t look right...  One angle grinding session and taking an implement of persuasion to the inner fender and we are in, bench bled and hooked up to a combination valve.
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Apr 4, 2020 20:02
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Me: STR, there's no way you can't reuse all those OEM spring-style clamps when you swap the radiator, right?  Car: gently caress YOU, MOST OF THESE HAVE BEEN REPLACED WITH 25c WORM CLAMPS FOR YEARS, THEY'RE ALL GONNA SNAP THE MOMENT YOU TRY TO REMOVE THEM So Brokeback is sidelined until I can find a way to the parts store. Upside is at least I dug my bicycle out of the back of the garage before backing Brokeback in, and aired up the tires, so I can go get hose clamps tomorrow. I'm loving done for now though. Riding bike to work tonight, then to Advance to get hose clamps. So. loving. Annoyed. Upside is the new radiator is at least sitting in place, with the fans mounted to it, and the fans are confirmed to power up with key on/engine off (AC switch on, even with engine off, will force them on). Here I was thinking the plastic thermostat neck would the thing to fail... instead of every loving hose clamp. All of the hoses are confirmed to fit, I just don't have a single goddamned hose clamp for any of them, they all snapped during removal. Even the 2 remaining OEM ones. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Apr 6, 2020 |
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Apr 6, 2020 16:33
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Going stir crazy and it was gorgeous again so I finally pulled the front bumper to install the factory black pony that I bought right after buying the car more than 2 years ago. Up until 2018 you could easily reach down and get to it after taking the upper radiator cover off, but 2018+ requires removing the bumper because of extra junk in the way. I had plastidipped my chrome badge but it was not holding up at all. Job was kind of a pain in the dick, a billion plastic fasteners and so so many screws holding the undertray on. My M12 ratchet is my new favorite tool. Oh and I also installed some jacking rails so I'm not beating the crap out of my pinch welds, and have plenty of space for jacking and placing stands without doing questionably safe things.    
opengl fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Apr 6, 2020 |
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Apr 6, 2020 22:01
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 The natural habitat of an older Subaru.  And we're back in business. New transmission cooler lines and radiator hoses. Only forgot to tighten one hose clamp.. so it sprayed transmission fluid all over the exhaust.  Caught it while it was idling while trying to burp the cooling system, but it made for a hell of a smoke show when I caned it for a bit afterwards to confirm no leaks. Clearly this thing has seen regular cooling system maintenance.  The inside of the hoses I replaced had some buildup as well. Guessing it's been leaking a little around there.. Didn't take a picture of the old radiator until I chucked it in the dumpster, but holy poo poo it was nasty. Maybe that's why I've had issues with it getting warmish going up long hills? Never much above halfway on the gauge, but any movement to me once the thermostat opens = bad.  And it looks like my transmission pan leak has gotten a little worse.  That's a bit over 24 hours. I have a bunch of cardboard on the floor of the garage for when I pull it in forward, but if I do that, there's no room to work on the front of the car... so it was backed in.  Sidenote: fitment of CSF radiators is pretty lovely, the whole thing sits slightly offset compared to how it should (with the pegs in the holes they belong in on the lower support). It also interferes with the intake duct that goes over it a bit. But hey, <$70. The Dayco lower radiator hose (molded, not a generic replacement) was also WAY longer than it should have been. The Gates upper hose was a little on the short side, but I think that's more because the entire radiator is about a half inch to the right of where it should be, compared to the original (even holding them up against each other, it's obvious the lower pegs are moved over a bit). The original radiator was leaking transmission fluid (on top of the transmission itself leaking), but there was so much that it was hard to tell if it was from the original hoses being rotten (with lovely hose clamps instead of OEM) or from the cooler itself. There wasn't really anything around where the hoses went to the hard lines. The lower radiator hose was also leaking a bit. loving POs... and loving $1600 cars too. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Apr 7, 2020 |
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Apr 7, 2020 15:20
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Yesterday I finally installed the brake rotors and pads that Jamal sent me a year ago. I'm now retroactively angry at myself for every time I've ever paid someone to do that, it was stupid easy.
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Apr 7, 2020 15:42
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Tell me more about the bike with blue tires
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Apr 7, 2020 15:51
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STR posted:loving POs... and loving $1600 cars too. So glad I'm not dealing with that poo poo anymore, I did for years until I was able to afford a newer low mileage Toyota econobox that only needs gas. It's been wonderful not having to worry about poo poo breaking, having to repair it in a rush late into the night because I have to go to work the next day or something. That and my wife driving a Lexus has effectively eliminated any wrenching on cars for anything but regular maintenance, my tools are collecting dust now and I'm good with that
Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Apr 7, 2020 |
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Apr 7, 2020 15:53
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Saturn #1 (Saturd) was like that until it got hit. In the entire time I owned it, I fed it a battery, an evap purge solenoid, a MAP sensor, and an AC compressor. And the AC compressor didn't even make it a week before grenading. Got it with 60k, totaled with 203k. Still drove after that, but it pulled hard to the right, and the front apron was shifted over from the hit. It was having issues by then (leaking valve guides, dead AC, catalytic converter poo poo itself 1k out of warranty and GM said gently caress you, a spacer on the rear sensor took care of the CEL, had to change the evap purge solenoid... all little poo poo except for the AC and guides), but the only time I ever had to get it towed was when some furniture fell off a truck on the highway and I blew 2 tires. By far the most reliable car I've owned. It was so reliable that I bought another Ion.... We all know how things went with Negative Ions. Most unreliable car I've owned, despite being the same drivetrain, same year/make/model, just a lower trim. That thing was the biggest pile of poo poo I've owned. I maxed out my AAA tows pretty quickly with it. Tons of electrical issues anytime it rained. Definitely had a pissed off ex-VW person on the assembly line the day it was built. I can forgive Brokeback for breaking.. it's a $1600 car! It's also 18 years old, poo poo is gonna break. I just want it to last until I get another raise. The irony is, it's also the nicest car I've owned. Never had a car with ABS, or heated seats, or heated mirrors, or a heated windshield, or power seats... and this is the base model! (it's absolutely a basketcase of a car mechanically, but everything [except for any gaskets and seals] on it works). big crush on Chad OMG posted:Tell me more about the bike with blue tires  It was a gift from another goon when Negative Ions was down for the count (they never said if I could mention them by name for it, so I won't - if they want to chime in, go for it). It's a mid 90s Cannondale KillerV 500, some kind of aftermarket front crank set on it, otherwise I think it's stock. It came with skinny road tires that were dry rotted. I wanted wider tires that could handle light trails, and went with the finest lovely eBay tires I could get. (these tires SUCK on dirt, but they feel more stable on the road to me) They were a lot brighter blue than I expected. The seller didn't have green at the time, and since the store I work at has a lot of homeless camps around it, I wanted to make it easily identifiable if it got stolen from the bike rack (I can't bring it inside). There's also no bike lane for about half of the ride to/from work from my old place, no street lights, no sidewalk, 45 mph road that people regularly do 60 on, so I wanted it to kinda stand out (it has stupid bright lights on it front and rear courtesy of China via Amazon, but I go to work at 10pm....).It also has an okay carrying rack on the back that I put on, but it's the kind that mounts to both the frame and seat post. The frame is just right for me if I have the seat all the way down, it's kind of a stretch with the rack on the post. I plan to remove it soon, since I don't commute with it anymore. Wanted a pretty hefty one since I was hauling groceries with it, but I have no need for the rack now when Brokeback isn't broken. It's been very well cared for (seriously, the paint has like 1 tiny scratch in it, and it's older than a lot of goons), and I've tried to take good care of it. Those tires were a mistake though.  It's a fantastic bike for what I do - some street riding, some dirt, some light trails. I'd like to put a front crank set on that lets me actually use all 3 front gears (the innermost cog is too close to the frame for the chain to engage on it), but I have no intentions of ever getting rid of this thing. It's pretty drat light for a 90s bike. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Apr 7, 2020 |
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Apr 7, 2020 17:10
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Finally got my replacement sway bar support beam delivered, and everything put back together and placed on the car I've only been able to drive two short trips about 10 miles/20 minutes each, but I have not noticed the creaking/clunking noise return yet. Aside from replacing a couple bolts that were missing on the underbody panels I'm not going to mess with any of this stuff for a while, and if the noise comes back I'll probably have to take it into a shop. Next on the list is getting a reverse camera installed  I was able to drill the hole and get the camera in place, however I can't fit the provided wiring through the rubber boots that connect the trunk lid to the trunk. I'm going to have to feed four individual lines through and splice some connections at each end. Hopefully I have enough laying around and won't have to order any.
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Apr 8, 2020 01:28
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Apr 8, 2020 04:42
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 What did you use on the door panels?
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Apr 8, 2020 06:45
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taqueso posted:
This, please.
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Apr 8, 2020 07:23
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Money and shipping from mitsubishi japan iirc.
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Apr 8, 2020 08:42
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