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Man, have been looking for a decent used hand planer, but I swear every local one is marked up as "antique", "rare", "vintage".
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Apr 13, 2020 16:10
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Hasselblad posted:Man, have been looking for a decent used hand planer, but I swear every local one is marked up as "antique", "rare", "vintage". Yeah I think eBay just has a better supply of decent 20th century hand planes at "reasonable" prices. Too rare for local prices to be not outrageous.
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Apr 13, 2020 16:50
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Granite Octopus posted:Made a bread box based on a Paul Sellers project. I didn’t actually watch the videos since it’s pretty simple. Did some basic box joints as I didn’t like the design of his. That's really pretty grain, friend. I've never heard of turpentine as anything other than a solvent. The bread looks pretty well crafted also.
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Apr 13, 2020 17:28
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Thanks for the info. Managed to mess around with SketchUp for a bit and got this.
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Apr 13, 2020 17:59
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I concur with the plywood recommendation. High-quality plywood with a gentle roundover looks good (so long as you don't mind the visible plies on the edges), takes finish well, and is definitely stronger than a door would be. Or if you're equipped to do more intensive woodworking, it's really not hard to make a solid wood desktop. Buy 4/4 lumber, edge join (biscuits/dowels aren't needed for strength since the glue surface area is so large), plane flat, sand, finish. You'll want some cross-supports underneath to help bear load, but you'd want that for any tabletop unless it's made from really beefy materials. I'm not particularly well equipped, but I've been meaning to get more tools for a while. Trying to build a desk for cheaper than a commercial solution seems like a great reason to buy tools that cost more than a commercial desk. I have a reasonably ok miter saw, not enough clamps, the aforementioned scroll saw which is of tremendous use to building a desk I'm sure, and various hand tools. Time for a table saw? Or I could just use plywood. And buy a table saw anyway.
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Apr 13, 2020 20:33
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Projects are a great excuse to buy tools! That said, I think the big thing you'd be missing from your current toolset is a means of jointing the boards (so they have straight edges that can be glued up) and of flattening the desk after everything's glued. A hand plane can do both of those jobs, but it takes some practice to get good results. A tablesaw can do the jointing but not the flattening -- that said, they're also pretty useful tools in general. A belt sander could do the flattening (or at least, can produce a smooth top) but isn't appropriate for jointing. Or you could just use a sheet of plywood. 
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Apr 13, 2020 20:53
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Also cutting down an 8x4 sheet of ply on a table saw requires a big table saw and/or an outfeed table. Get a circular saw and a track or just a long straight edge, and something to cut it on (a big sheet of dense pink insulation foam works well if you don't mind that it gets chopped up and eventually you trash it; or, you can get hobby horses or something). I mean, by all means get a table saw if you're going to do lots more woodworking projects, but I own one and I'm not comfortable with breaking down 8x4 on it.
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Apr 13, 2020 21:50
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You can break a sheet down with a jigsaw if you're going to neaten it up afterwards.
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Apr 13, 2020 21:59
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Leperflesh posted:Also cutting down an 8x4 sheet of ply on a table saw requires a big table saw and/or an outfeed table. Get a circular saw and a track or just a long straight edge, and something to cut it on (a big sheet of dense pink insulation foam works well if you don't mind that it gets chopped up and eventually you trash it; or, you can get hobby horses or something). Same. I loving HATE trying to break down a 4x8 sheet of any type of material, even with my outfeed.
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Apr 14, 2020 01:55
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I just finished cutting and fitting panels for my new desk. The steel structure will be welded into the angle pieces that secure the sides. Effectively, the strength will come from the steel since to two side pieces that hang down won't be loaded. This whole thing is a complicated way to hang my humanscale keyboard tray. The long piece of flat stock that connects the two sides is recessed so that the underside is flat for mounting the tray track: Design sketch:  
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Apr 15, 2020 19:14
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Anyone have any suggested books/articles etc on building/designing chairs? Not so much interested in Windsor/staked chairs as much as historical-ish Queen Anne/Georgian stuff. Anything generally on ‘this is what makes chairs comfortable and this is why’ would be useful too.
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Apr 17, 2020 19:16
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Finished desk. I really like this wood finish (tried and true original): 
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Apr 17, 2020 20:12
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I'm making my plane pointlessly flat (yes the handle is broken too)
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Apr 18, 2020 17:42
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'm making my plane pointlessly flat You ought to be able to glue it together. I did one, but you have to overlook how silly looking a clamp on a plane is.
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Apr 18, 2020 18:38
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So if I want to buy a saw rail and a decent circular saw (I don't think I have the space for a decent table saw, especially if I need an outfeed table) is there a go-to circular saw model/manufacturer? My basic understanding of woodworking tools so far is Kreg makes really great pocket hole jigs and that I need more clamps. Also is it better to just buy something like 3/4 inch mahogany plywood or do a 3/4 inch cheap thing and glue/affix a 1/4 inch mahogany face to it? Make something out of solid wood and face it? Is this the same as veneering or is 1/4 inch too thick to be considered veneer? Eventually I'll get around to installing sketchup and then agonize over plans, but not yet.
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Apr 18, 2020 19:27
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1/4" is thicker than what I'd consider veneer. That said, my experience with doing veneer myself is "don't". It's fiddly work and all too easy to leave gaps between the sheets. Just get the mahogany veneer plywood. Circular saws: I don't have a ton of experience with 'em, but they're fairly simple tools, so I expect that most will work fine. It's not like there's a ton of features you need -- as long as you can set a depth stop and tilt the blade, you're set. I'd avoid the absolute cheapest offerings on the theory that they're likely prone to being out of square and/or wobbling, but everything else should be fine.
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Apr 18, 2020 21:11
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One thing about circular saws: the Skil HD77 worm drive absolutely chews through wood effortlessly in a way that a typical home improvement store sidewinder will not.
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Apr 18, 2020 21:17
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I'm having an absolute poo poo of a time finding hose for dust extraction that isn't either absolute rock bottom black plastic stuff, or £30/m ridiculous pricing. Help.TooMuchAbstraction posted:Circular saws: I don't have a ton of experience with 'em, but they're fairly simple tools, so I expect that most will work fine. It's not like there's a ton of features you need -- as long as you can set a depth stop and tilt the blade, you're set. I'd avoid the absolute cheapest offerings on the theory that they're likely prone to being out of square and/or wobbling, but everything else should be fine. The festool track saw has a riving knife that drops into place as you cut, which is nice, but.. festool.
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Apr 18, 2020 23:19
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Olothreutes posted:
Yeah 1/4" is too thick to consider a veneer. If you want to do it with figured mahogany or some rare species then I'd say go with veneer, but if you're going with regular mahogany and trying to save a few bucks by veneering just shell out for the mahogany plywood. Here's an update on the jewelry cabinet I've been working on, got the doors fitted and front and back veneers applied. Then I hacked up the doors a bit for some abalone shell inlay that I still need to glue in. I've embedded a couple rare earth magnets in the doors and a couple more in the door stop to keep them closed.   
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Apr 19, 2020 01:13
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'm making my plane pointlessly flat I've thought about doing this so many times. Love it. Also one of my secret reasons for wanting to get more into machining is so I can get an older small surface grinder and use it to flatten the backs of chisels and plane blades amongst normal surface grinder use.
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Apr 19, 2020 01:30
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Yeah 1/4" is too thick to consider a veneer. If you want to do it with figured mahogany or some rare species then I'd say go with veneer, but if you're going with regular mahogany and trying to save a few bucks by veneering just shell out for the mahogany plywood. You do gorgeous and inspiring work-thanks for sharing! I need to get back into veneering. It opens so many possibilities.
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Apr 19, 2020 01:45
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Olothreutes posted:So if I want to buy a saw rail and a decent circular saw (I don't think I have the space for a decent table saw, especially if I need an outfeed table) is there a go-to circular saw model/manufacturer? My basic understanding of woodworking tools so far is Kreg makes really great pocket hole jigs and that I need more clamps. I went through this problem a while ago, I decided to make something out of bb plywood hoping to veneer it later. I ended up painting it as veneering would have been very difficult at that scale and ended up more expensive than buying veneered plywood in the first place. My recommending for a beginner is to make whatever out of normal plywood, then have another go out of pre-veneered ply when you've made mistakes in the cheaper material.
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Apr 19, 2020 16:45
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:1/4" is thicker than what I'd consider veneer. That said, my experience with doing veneer myself is "don't". It's fiddly work and all too easy to leave gaps between the sheets. Just get the mahogany veneer plywood. If you plan to use it as a track saw, buy something dedicated to being a track saw. If it was me, I would pick up the kreg ACS with the fold up table for $800. Circular saws can be converted to track saws and there are several companies offering that kind of kit for cheaper than a track saw setup. The downside of a traditional circular saw is lack of plunge cut on the saw + you can't do bevel cuts with those systems since changing the bevel angle would require moving the cutting edge on the saw track.
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Apr 19, 2020 17:49
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cakesmith handyman posted:I went through this problem a while ago, I decided to make something out of bb plywood hoping to veneer it later. I ended up painting it as veneering would have been very difficult at that scale and ended up more expensive than buying veneered plywood in the first place. My recommending for a beginner is to make whatever out of normal plywood, then have another go out of pre-veneered ply when you've made mistakes in the cheaper material. fwiw, baltic birch or maple multi-ply (appleply?) are a joy to work with, if you're into the striped edges (or you do mitered edges).
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Apr 19, 2020 21:18
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asmasm posted:If you plan to use it as a track saw, buy something dedicated to being a track saw. If it was me, I would pick up the kreg ACS with the fold up table for $800. Circular saws can be converted to track saws and there are several companies offering that kind of kit for cheaper than a track saw setup. The downside of a traditional circular saw is lack of plunge cut on the saw + you can't do bevel cuts with those systems since changing the bevel angle would require moving the cutting edge on the saw track. Yeah I keep considering buying the ACS and table since it seems like such a handy setup. I have been disappointed with the Kreg Accu-cut system-- since as you said it lacks a plunge feature starting the cut always seemed awkward since I don't have a good elevated work surface and starting my cuts never seemed very accurate.
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Apr 20, 2020 08:26
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MetaJew posted:Yeah I keep considering buying the ACS and table since it seems like such a handy setup. You mean they "never seemed very KREG® Accu-Cut™️"
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Apr 20, 2020 10:56
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When a free tablesaw pops up on craigslist 3 blocks away so you can live your best regular and dedicated dado stack life.  Pretty silly but im digging having the extra tablespace.
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Apr 21, 2020 06:10
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The Spookmaster posted:When a free tablesaw pops up on craigslist 3 blocks away so you can live your best regular and dedicated dado stack life. i’m sorry to have to tell you that your new saw is haunted, that’s why it was free good news i can exorcise it for you, just send it to me along with $100k
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Apr 21, 2020 09:13
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The Spookmaster posted:When a free tablesaw pops up on craigslist 3 blocks away so you can live your best regular and dedicated dado stack life. I'd love to have a setup like this.
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Apr 21, 2020 12:41
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HolHorsejob posted:fwiw, baltic birch or maple multi-ply (appleply?) are a joy to work with, if you're into the striped edges (or you do mitered edges). Are folks finding the birch ply in more than 5 layers? I read somewhere that 9 layer was good stuff, but cannot find it hereabouts. Also the inner layers appear to be the most knot-void riddled poo poo wood possible with the thinnest veneer on the surfaces. Of course a derivative of murphys law causes all of those voids to exist aling finished edges. Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Apr 21, 2020 |
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Apr 21, 2020 15:51
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The Spookmaster posted:When a free tablesaw pops up on craigslist 3 blocks away so you can live your best regular and dedicated dado stack life. drat, I need to start monitoring craigslist.
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Apr 21, 2020 15:53
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Now you just need two more table saws for outfeed support
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Apr 21, 2020 16:00
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Hasselblad posted:Are folks finding the birch ply in more than 5 layers? I read somewhere that 9 layer was good stuff, but cannot find it hereabouts. Also the inner layers appear to be the most knot-void riddled poo poo wood possible with the thinnest veneer on the surfaces. Of course a derivative of murphys law causes all of those voids to exist aling finished edges. 3/4” Baltic birch has 13 plies about 1/16” thick (the faces are sanded to make it 3/4”). 1/2” BB looks like it has 9 plies. Either should have very very few/no internal voids and all the plies are birch. It is very good plywood. You’ll probably have to get it from a specialty lumber/hardwood/cabinet supplier. 3/4” Chinese birch (usually sold as chinabirch) also has 13 plies but it is some poo poo that’s full of knots and voids and doesn’t stay flat and the internal plies aren’t always birch, but it’s a lot cheaper than Baltic birch or domestic hardwood plywood. Most of what you’d buy at a big box labeled as ‘birch plywood’ is just normal domestic hardwood plywood with a thin birch face veneer. Around here the core plies are usually poplar, but I think alder, aspen, birch and gum get used some too. It’s decent plywood, but not nearly as stiff as Baltic birch. Home Depot here sells some stuff called ‘sandeply’ from South America that I’ve had good luck. It is some kind of tropical hardwood and it’s a little soft, but it stays very flat and is quite stiff.
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Apr 21, 2020 16:17
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:3/4” Baltic birch has 13 plies about 1/16” thick (the faces are sanded to make it 3/4”). 1/2” BB looks like it has 9 plies. Either should have very very few/no internal voids and all the plies are birch. It is very good plywood. You’ll probably have to get it from a specialty lumber/hardwood/cabinet supplier. 3/4” Chinese birch (usually sold as chinabirch) also has 13 plies but it is some poo poo that’s full of knots and voids and doesn’t stay flat and the internal plies aren’t always birch, but it’s a lot cheaper than Baltic birch or domestic hardwood plywood. Yeah, I’ll have to hit up the custom cabinet folks nearby, because the bb I have gotten from home depot is not remotely that level of quality, and it is in the neighborhood of $50 per 4x8.
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Apr 21, 2020 17:48
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Be warned that HD will mix in some really porous core plywood as "Baltic Birch". I learned the hard way grabbing a sheet to cut on a laser and it just lit the whole thing on fire from the inside out. Its cheaper and better quality to get it from a lumber yard.
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Apr 21, 2020 18:36
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JEEVES420 posted:Be warned that HD will mix in some really porous core plywood as "Baltic Birch". I learned the hard way grabbing a sheet to cut on a laser and it just lit the whole thing on fire from the inside out. Its cheaper and better quality to get it from a lumber yard. Huh interesting, usually I burn my projects after I complete them I've never thought of saving a step and doing it during. Good trick
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Apr 21, 2020 18:49
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I. M. Gei posted:i’m sorry to have to tell you that your new saw is haunted, that’s why it was free He knew that already. It's a Sears. You really do not want that to be your 1st table saw. Harry Potter on Ice posted:Huh interesting, usually I burn my projects after I complete them I've never thought of saving a step and doing it during. Good trick lol
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Apr 21, 2020 20:59
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JEEVES420 posted:Be warned that HD will mix in some really porous core plywood as "Baltic Birch". I learned the hard way grabbing a sheet to cut on a laser and it just lit the whole thing on fire from the inside out. Its cheaper and better quality to get it from a lumber yard. 
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Apr 21, 2020 21:45
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Hasselblad posted:drat, I need to start monitoring craigslist. I use an app called "Freebie Alerts" that you can set to only show posts that have your specific search terms. It pulls from craigslist, offerup, letgo and one other. Ive grabbed a bunch of tools and hardwood from it
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Apr 22, 2020 21:47
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Due to working from home, I’m building myself a desk. Nothing fancy, it’s literally made of construction 2x4s, 2x6s and 2x2s. I’m staining it with minwax oil based stain. I’ve laid the rags I used out flat to dry so they didn’t spontaneously combust. Now that they are dry and stiff, is there still a combustion danger? I’ll post pictures once I put the poly on, just don’t expect anything great, it’s the first major thing I’ve ever built and there are plenty of flaws in it.
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Apr 24, 2020 01:04
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