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Should maybe post this in tech support sub but there doesn't seem to be a general questions thread there and this is too small for its own thread: I got an I/O error that prevented me from accessing one of my SSDs at all for about an hour today. It's an old Samsung Evo 840. After running a CHKDSK on command line, it seemed to come back to life and works fine again now. Samsung Magician says it's OK. Is there anything else I should do to check whether it's OK? I checked that the driver is up to date and stuff.
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Apr 2, 2020 18:00
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Klyith posted:Hmmm, sounds like patching could be a lot worse though. You'd either have to download full blobs which would suck for people with caps, or decompress and recompress locally. I would guess they'll probably use an overlay system where the 1.0 gold master blob never changes and patches are a seperate compressed blob off to the side that can override files in the original blob. Last gen they did something similar to patch games running directly from the DVD. e: or maybe they just won't compress the whole game as one blob, it may be up to the game developers what granularity to compress at repiv fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Apr 2, 2020 |
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Apr 2, 2020 18:03
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Idk but back it up if you haven't. I realized the other day that with all games loading from solid state memory, the new consoles are basically going back to cartridges. Yeah it's more of a inbuilt flash cart than a cartridge proper, but still amusing.
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Apr 2, 2020 18:03
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repiv posted:I would guess they'll probably use an overlay system where the 1.0 gold master blob never changes and patches are a seperate compressed blob off to the side that can override files in the original blob. Last gen did they something similar to patch games running directly from the DVD. Yeah, I'd expect it to be something like that, where there's a mutable file look up table directing the system to pull the files from the update blob instead of from the original blob. Decompress -> recompress makes no real sense for patches of any reasonable size, considering that it would make patching take an excessive amount of time (how fast do you think it can recompress 30GB?) and require you to keep probably a big chunk of free on the disk for temp files. File size growth could be a minor concern if you have a whole series of patches and now your 50GB original install is 80GB or whatever, but since it sounds like even the base models will have 1TB of storage, I don't think that's going to be a blocker.
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Apr 2, 2020 18:39
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El Grillo posted:Should maybe post this in tech support sub but there doesn't seem to be a general questions thread there and this is too small for its own thread: Assuming that it's a 2.5" and not a M.2 style SSD, I/O errors can be caused by faulty SATA cables. If it's working right now, as ItBreathes said, back it up. Then once that's done, try swapping cables and see if that fixes it. Otherwise it'll be time to demote that to a Steam library or other "I won't be mad when I inevitably lose this" drive.
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Apr 2, 2020 18:41
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It would be extremely stupid for the game's executable, which is what needs to be patched for bugfixes and is probably no more than 100 MB, to be stored in the same blob as the 100 GB of assets that never need to be changed. But knowing game devs they will do exactly that
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Apr 2, 2020 18:43
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Yeah, but there's often a lot of assets that get patched/updated/fixed/whatever, as well. I mean, there's a reason that a lot of updates are >1GB, and not just a new 10MB .exe Either way, I guess we'll find out this winter!
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Apr 2, 2020 18:47
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VostokProgram posted:It would be extremely stupid for the game's executable, which is what needs to be patched for bugfixes and is probably no more than 100 MB, to be stored in the same blob as the 100 GB of assets that never need to be changed. But knowing game devs they will do exactly that Uh, games patches cover way more than the .exe
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Apr 2, 2020 18:50
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Klyith posted:Uh, games patches cover way more than the .exe When do patches actually modify the existing assets? Instead of adding new ones
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Apr 2, 2020 19:22
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VostokProgram posted:When do patches actually modify the existing assets? Instead of adding new ones To fix geometry issues, or change AI scripts, or item attributes, or...
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Apr 2, 2020 20:01
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Seemingly minor changes can have a cascading effect that ends up changing lots of data too - e.g. making a small tweak to a level may require rebaking the lighting, and baking usually isn't deterministic, so the entire dataset ends up being slightly different to before and blows up the patch size. I've heard some horror stories about accidentally non-deterministic build systems too, like developers who used to compress their textures with a GPU encoder but stopped because the results weren't deterministic across vendors/drivers and kept blowing up the patches even when the input data didn't change.
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Apr 2, 2020 20:10
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You guys are over complicating the patching issue. Because it’s hardware decompression, the data is likely compressed into discrete chunks of some size, and no chunk will have any need for another chunk during decompression. Any patch will just replace affected chunks with new ones, with it all determined during patch creation to be as efficient as possible. The compressed data can not be some giant winrar equivalent where there is a dictionary that gets built up so the decompressor must have access to earlier blocks to decode later blocks. Each chunk needs to be completely stand alone, so replacing chunks is easy.
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Apr 3, 2020 04:48
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El Grillo posted:Should maybe post this in tech support sub but there doesn't seem to be a general questions thread there and this is too small for its own thread: Do you have the latest firmware? There was the fw bug that old data becomes slow.
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Apr 5, 2020 00:32
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For m.2 NVMe drives, what is the difference between something like a Samsung 970 Evo (~$200 for 1 TB, though was down to $180 recently) and a WD Blue (~$120 for 1 TB)? Is the practical difference something that's worth considering for gaming?
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Apr 15, 2020 22:55
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Splinter posted:For m.2 NVMe drives, what is the difference between something like a Samsung 970 Evo (~$200 for 1 TB, though was down to $180 recently) and a WD Blue (~$120 for 1 TB)? Is the practical difference something that's worth considering for gaming? The 970 Evo is faster, but mostly only in benchmarks and under crushingly heavy load (like doing 50GB transfers regularly). For day to day use and gaming the WD Blue will be virtually the same. The ADATA XPG XS8200 Pro has performance even closer to the 970 EVO, with a price-point that's somewhere in the middle (~$150 on Amazon today). Up to you what you want, but I would expect your normal user would be happy with any of the three. Just make sure you're getting the WD Blue SN500 NVMe drive, not the WD Blue SATA M.2 version.
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Apr 15, 2020 23:33
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Splinter posted:For m.2 NVMe drives, what is the difference between something like a Samsung 970 Evo (~$200 for 1 TB, though was down to $180 recently) and a WD Blue (~$120 for 1 TB)? Is the practical difference something that's worth considering for gaming? If it's for gaming just get a QLC drive
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Apr 15, 2020 23:33
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The iops seem low, and that temp seems high, but its not a real great time to try and do an exchange. :/
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Apr 16, 2020 00:26
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54C seems totally acceptable for an SSD to me?
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Apr 16, 2020 02:18
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DrDork posted:The 970 Evo is faster, but mostly only in benchmarks and under crushingly heavy load (like doing 50GB transfers regularly). For day to day use and gaming the WD Blue will be virtually the same. The ADATA XPG XS8200 Pro has performance even closer to the 970 EVO, with a price-point that's somewhere in the middle (~$150 on Amazon today). Up to you what you want, but I would expect your normal user would be happy with any of the three. Just make sure you're getting the WD Blue SN500 NVMe drive, not the WD Blue SATA M.2 version. Nope, the SX8200 Pro 1TB is all around the superior drive than the 970 Evo 1TB, especially in SLC cache size which is least 3x as large. https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/adata-xpg-sx8200-pro-ssd,5955-3.html Anybody should much rather buy from somebody that focuses on engineering instead of marketing. The latter from Samsung is so strong that the meme of "The Evo is better than everybody else except their own Pro" still persists. Palladium fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Apr 16, 2020 |
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Apr 16, 2020 03:17
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Eletriarnation posted:54C seems totally acceptable for an SSD to me? I guess its actually doing better than I was worried about. It never drops below 48-50, which is what I wasnt expecting, but it also hasnt gotten past the low 60s even moving a bunch of data around. Maybe Ill poke around the mobo settings more. (Ive been lazy working through the whole set since switching to a new one.) The random iops should supposedly hit like 550,000+ though, so that still seems off by a lot. Palladium posted:Nope, the SX8200 Pro 1TB is all around the superior drive than the 970 Evo 1TB, especially in SLC cache size which is least 3x as large. If I upgrade to a second one this is what I would go with. FRINGE fucked around with this message at 10:03 on Apr 16, 2020 |
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Apr 16, 2020 10:00
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FRINGE posted:I guess its actually doing better than I was worried about. It never drops below 48-50, which is what I wasnt expecting, but it also hasnt gotten past the low 60s even moving a bunch of data around. Maybe Ill poke around the mobo settings more. (Ive been lazy working through the whole set since switching to a new one.) Do you not have a heatsink on the drive? The reviews I saw for it put it idling around 45C, with stress-temps in the low 70's. By comparison, both of my SSDs (with heatsinks) chill at ~25C. I'm not sure where thermal throttling starts kicking in, but if you've got a heatsink you could throw on there, it wouldn't hurt. Palladium posted:Nope, the SX8200 Pro 1TB is all around the superior drive than the 970 Evo 1TB, especially in SLC cache size which is least 3x as large. You're right--I'd been mentally thinking about the 970 Pro, which is faster. I think you're being a bit hard on Samsung there--their SSDs, including the Evos, were compellingly faster and more reliable than most others for years. ADATA and others catching up has only really been true for the last year or two, and even then Samsung's Pro line are some of (if not the) fastest drives you can get. Their EVO offering, though, is certainly a bit more expensive than it should be, and there's really no reason to go for one over the XPG.
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Apr 16, 2020 14:39
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FRINGE posted:I guess its actually doing better than I was worried about. It never drops below 48-50, which is what I wasnt expecting, but it also hasnt gotten past the low 60s even moving a bunch of data around. Maybe Ill poke around the mobo settings more. (Ive been lazy working through the whole set since switching to a new one.) Where is it installed in your PC and what's around it? If your mobo is one that puts the first m.2 between the CPU and GPU, that can be a heat trap area with some heatsinks (or especially water cooling). OTOH unless you are running a heavy database server on this machine you don't need to give a poo poo about iops in the slightest. Palladium posted:Nope, the SX8200 Pro 1TB is all around the superior drive than the 970 Evo 1TB, especially in SLC cache size which is least 3x as large. lol toms hardware This is an example of the crushingly heavy load that makes the 970 Evo beat down the SX8200. Nobody ITT has workloads like The Destroyer. But go ahead a couple pages to the Light workload test and you also see the 970 Evo ahead (and where the Adata's less sophisticated controller falls down). That's the difference between very simple synthetic benchmarks and real-world io. Samsung SSDs are overpriced and average users don't get anything from spending the extra money on them. But they're really really good drives, samsung stuff is still a go-to in high performance applications. And the idea that adata of all people is spending money on engineering is stupid. Adata makes drives by putting other people's controllers on a board with other people's nand. That's not a bad thing, but it does mean that they have a wide range from good to crap -- they make a ssd with a realtek  controller.The marketing advantage that Samsung has is that for like 6 years, from the launch of the 830 Evo until a couple years ago, the answer to "what ssd should I buy?" was Samsung. They were in the lead of both price and performance. That's not true anymore, now they're the most expensive. And the performance advantage of samsung's nvme drives is totally irrelevant to anybody that needs to ask what drive to buy in here.
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Apr 16, 2020 14:55
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DrDork posted:Do you not have a heatsink on the drive? The reviews I saw for it put it idling around 45C, with stress-temps in the low 70's. By comparison, both of my SSDs (with heatsinks) chill at ~25C. I'm not sure where thermal throttling starts kicking in, but if you've got a heatsink you could throw on there, it wouldn't hurt. Klyith posted:Where is it installed in your PC and what's around it? If your mobo is one that puts the first m.2 between the CPU and GPU, that can be a heat trap area with some heatsinks (or especially water cooling). I will have several vms and at least one ms sql server running later, but this is all test/lab/learning stuff, not production. Something must be off though. Most of the online test/review people (anandtech etc) seem to have hit the predicted results. (Theres a 250gb sata 860 evo hanging out near it idling at 25, and a couple bigger harddrives at around 30) FRINGE fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Apr 16, 2020 |
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Apr 16, 2020 15:27
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FRINGE posted:No heatsink yet, but its in the "bottom" m2 slot on a Crosshair VII (ie not behind the video card). The video card itself (1050ti Ill be swapping in a while) idles around 40-45, and the cpu around 32-35 (2700x w a Mugen cooler). Yeah I dunno, the bottom m.2 on that mobo is the "good" one (direct connection to CPU, not m.2->chipset->cpu). You're hitting the expected sequential bandwidth, so it's not operating at some reduced PCIe mode or anything like that. And a 1050ti doesn't make enough heat to matter. The 970 controller is stupid hot and will throttle itself in benchmark tests, so a heatsink or direct airflow on the drive might be needed. I'm not sure what reviewers do -- anandtech's storage benchmarking system is a mobo without built-in m.2 heatspreaders, and they don't mention putting a heatsink on it. But tech bench setups are open-air and generally have extra fans pointed at stuff. Or honestly you could just forget about it, because you won't experience any difference in anything but benchmarks.
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Apr 16, 2020 16:01
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I'm just building my first gaming PC in over 15 years so lots of things are quite new to me. I read through the OP but have a question about the easiest way to setup my SSDs and HDD on my new PC. For my PC I purchased a Crucial SATA 120GB SSD, a Crucial SATA 500GB SSD and finally a Seagate 1TB HDD. This was mainly from a mistaken believe that I even really needed an HDD, and unfortunately with Covid where I bought it from wont accept reutrns. Oops. The intent is to use the 120GB SSD as a boot drive, and the 500GB SSD to load my most common games and apps from, and then the 1TB as a storage/backup HDD. I'm just finishing the build now and currently I've mounted the HDD into one of the trays in the PC. I'm not really a poopsock media hoarder so I really don't have any media to save, so my use of a 1TB of space is not much. Even games I don't care much to save or hold on to (I envision getting most of my games from Steam or similar services so I'd rather just reinstall it if I want to play it). So, to make the most of this I want to use the 1TB HDD as a backup disc for both my PC and my laptop. I know Win10 has a fairly simple automated backup app for PC's where the drive is connected, but is there a way to setup automated backups of harddrives on my home network? So, on a monthly cycle have it so my laptop can backup to my HDD over the network? Is this possible or do I have to buy an HDD enclosure and manually connect it to my laptop every time I want to back it up?
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Apr 16, 2020 16:23
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Oysters Autobio posted:Backups a better thread to ask about backups is the backup thread But one word of caution is that an online backup drive on the same PC as the data isn't a great idea. It protects you from the other drives failing, but not against power spikes, or something like ransomware that encrypts your drives.
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Apr 16, 2020 19:56
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Someone gave me an old laptop and I wanna put a new SSD in it to get it running good again, i’ve never really messed around upgrading a laptop before is there anything I should keep in mind picking an SSD? Everything seems standard on this thing and all I really need is a 250-500gb SSD (hopefully on the cheaper end) would going with the best priced intel/Samsung/etc that I can find be fine, or is there anything special I should be taking into consideration? I don’t think an nvme/m2/whatever is an option (it’s an hp pavilion from 2011/12) so something that can be easily slapped into place where the lovely 5400rpm drive is now would be great.
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Apr 16, 2020 21:37
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Sounds like you just want a bog standard 2.5" SATA drive, the Crucial MX500 or WD Blue are good choices. They're both usually about $50 for 250GB or $70 for 500GB but get whichever is cheaper.
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Apr 16, 2020 21:49
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^^e: eh, even a blue or mx500 seems overqualified for a decade-old laptop that's probably just a webbrowser machineWowporn posted:Someone gave me an old laptop and I wanna put a new SSD in it to get it running good again, i’ve never really messed around upgrading a laptop before is there anything I should keep in mind picking an SSD? Everything seems standard on this thing and all I really need is a 250-500gb SSD (hopefully on the cheaper end) would going with the best priced intel/Samsung/etc that I can find be fine, or is there anything special I should be taking into consideration? I don’t think an nvme/m2/whatever is an option (it’s an hp pavilion from 2011/12) so something that can be easily slapped into place where the lovely 5400rpm drive is now would be great. Any 2.5" SSD can replace the laptop HDD, and on a laptop that old there's no point in anything besides just "a ssd". A WD Green of 240 or 480 GB is quite cheap and suited for the job. Kinda slow by modern SSD standards, but they're at least TLC drives so they don't have any gotchas or unusual downsides besides that. Alternately, Crucial BX500s are slightly faster than a WD Green but a few bucks more expensive. Klyith fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Apr 16, 2020 |
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Apr 16, 2020 21:55
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I figured all I needed was the most basic thing available. When I built my main PC I got it so beaten into my head that crucial drives were garbage so it's good to know thats not true/less true now. All I really plan on using it for other than having an extra web browser laying around is having an audio program or two so I can move some of my music peripherals away from my main desk space, so nothing that will need much horsepower.
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Apr 16, 2020 23:26
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Silicon Power 1TB NVME drive MSI B450M Gaming motherboard Came home from work and my computer was off, Windows couldn't find a boot device. No drive was visible in the BIOS either. Pulled the drive and re-seated it and it booted fine. Should I be worried it will go out again? Any tools to run to see if there are errors piling up or anything? CrystalDiskInfo says drive health is 100% I do have all my important files on my NAS, and Windows installer on a thumb drive. jeff8472 fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Apr 18, 2020 |
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Apr 18, 2020 22:56
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jeff8472 posted:Silicon Power 1TB NVME drive If this is a desktop, the SATA contacts were likely just not very good. If it happens again I suggest just replacing the SATA cable.
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Apr 19, 2020 03:10
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jeff8472 posted:Pulled the drive and re-seated it and it booted fine. Should I be worried it will go out again? Well, the sad thruth is, yes. You should never trust a storage drive, whether ancient spinning rust or the hottest NVMe. They are highly reliable, but still they are only waiting for the perfect moment to stab you in the back. Thankfully you seemed to already have a one part of the solution, your NAS. Instead of storing the important files in there how about putting a full backup of your computer in there, at least daily and possibly even more shorter intervals for the more important stuff. Duplicati and Duplicacy are probably one of the more popular choices for that. You say all your important files are in the NAS. Do you mean you have backups of those on the NAS, or is the NAS the only place those files are stored? Because the NAS can't be trusted either, it's just waiting to go up in smoke. Maybe set up a cloud backup for the NAS. Backblaze B2 or one of the multitude of competitors. My choice was a large harddrive installed in my work computer and daily rsnapshot of my home server.
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Apr 19, 2020 16:49
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jeff8472 posted:Silicon Power 1TB NVME drive Silicon Power is basically as bad quality as you can get. I've had plenty of those things die on me. Make sure you have a backup for sure.
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Apr 19, 2020 17:12
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Does anyone have a tip for a cheapish m.2 2242 ssd that isn't complete garbage? The SSD in my Chinese tablet is getting kind of wonky again and will randomly get lovely read performance and occasionally fail reads completely. It's replaceable, but the problem is that it's the smaller 2242 variety and most stores here don't seem to have any of those. I've bought a 2.5" Alixpress SSD before and it woks as advertised, but overall it turned out to be pretty bad value - barely cheaper than a normal brand for mediocre performance and questionable reliability. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Apr 19, 2020 |
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Apr 19, 2020 20:05
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mobby_6kl posted:Does anyone have a tip for a cheapish m.2 2242 ssd that isn't complete garbage? Are the mediocre $/GB prices for Transcend stuff on amazon too off-putting? $50 for a 256gb isn't ideal, but at least Transcend is a reliable if very unexciting brand.
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Apr 19, 2020 20:22
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I'd double check that it's definitely not msata rather than m2. Depending on the age of that tablet's technology anyway.
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Apr 19, 2020 20:27
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I'm not gonna open it up now but yeah it definitely looks like m.2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOd-ZI9YbMU&t=134sKlyith posted:Are the mediocre $/GB prices for Transcend stuff on amazon too off-putting? $50 for a 256gb isn't ideal, but at least Transcend is a reliable if very unexciting brand.  more than the mystery Chinese one but at least I'd have a warranty and won't have to wait for two months for it to arrive.
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Apr 19, 2020 23:39
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You're thinking of Uvex. Umax seem alright, I remember the name from their scanners.
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Apr 20, 2020 00:15
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If m.2 is physically limited to 4 lanes how close is the industry from saturating that link speed? I’m sure it doesn’t matter for most people using it but it’s an interesting point none the less. Would additional speed be useful if SSDs had larger DRAM caches and could burst more data? If the link speed is pcie4x4 then 8GB of cache would provide a full second of burst. Obviously it wouldn’t work exactly like that.
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Apr 21, 2020 17:17
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