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um excuse me posted:Yea I think I understand you correctly. I was just trying to convey that a video splitter means you can look for head units with just one video port, if you want. Splitters come in A/V, coax, and HDMI flavor. So they should cover most anything you pick, theoretically. But definitely do the research. I'm just pointing you in a direction and haven't done this myself. taqueso posted:Oh the roof rack? TBH I don't know, but I do know I've seen aftermarket 360 cams for sale on ebay like this thing https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-360-Degree-Seamless-Panoramic-Parking-Monitoring-System-4-Waterproof-Camera/113674113278
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Apr 5, 2020 08:00
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Yeah those kits require you to drill into your mirrors FYI, but I've definitely thought of getting one. They digitally stitch 4-5 cameras around your car to create the birds eye illusion. But there should still be versions that you only need one video out to your head unit, it looks like.
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Apr 5, 2020 09:09
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I did a thing. On tonight's episode of moments from disaster...  She's blown Jim.  New speaker is a bit bigger. NVX XPS65  Side by side  Lets get the moisture barrier off  Off  Makes a good template  Next day, speaker mounted in mdf ring  Sound deadening applied to door  Minor trimming to door panel  Done  Word of caution on the foil backed sound deadening, it'll fukken nip ya if you aren't careful :nsfw:  Absolutely kicking myself for not taking the time to run speaker cable through the factory grommit for a future 4 channel amp install that I already have. Coredump fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Apr 5, 2020 |
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Apr 5, 2020 17:34
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Splice into the existing speaker wire at the other end of the grommet, behind the kick panel. With how much poo poo runs through the factory grommets these days, that's easier than pulling new wire. Unless you're planning on more than 30-40W RMS/60 peak? I know the stock wiring is likely ~18-20 gauge, but that's still enough for up to ~50 peak, and by splicing in behind the kick panel, you're only using maybe 2 feet of the original wire. Unless you're building a dB or SQ machine, it should be fine. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Apr 5, 2020 |
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Apr 5, 2020 20:25
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That’s a good idea but I like to leave the the factory wiring as intact as possible. Plus I would need to bypass the factory amp that’s down there in the kick panel. In theory I could de-pin the wiring going into the factory amp and move into my amp but  and I’d lose the factory sub until I put in another amp. The 4 channel amp I’m planning to run is pretty tiny but it will be powering my tweeters and woofers on separate channels while my Pioneer does the crossover. https://nvx.com/vadm4/
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Apr 6, 2020 14:02
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Double postin'  I did it again. If it wasn't for Honda Element's having a 6" sub in the front of the car I wouldn't have let this go this long. Nah who am I kidding, I'm a lazy poo poo. But that 6" sub being able to be crossed over at 100 hz was working miracles for decent sound given the state of my door speakers as you will see... Driver's door speaker, surround completely gone.  Our friend the moisture barrier  Off  Sound deadener on the door.  I'll call this side the "mistakes were made" side. Pro-tip, make sure when you use your moisture barrier as a template you got it orientated the correct way. This side doesn't look as good and if you look close you'll see some foil tape o the sound deadener. But it'll do. Speaker mounted.  Getting the mdf rings prepared was the most time consuming part. Need 3 bolts facing out and 3 screws going into the door. Have to countersink every thing. And the inside of the ring needed to be clearanced on both sides for the speaker to sit flush. Just a lot of tedium. Done  On this side I managed to get higher gauge speaker wire fished through the door and is tucked under my dash ready to go for a later small 4 channel amp install. I'll do the passenger door later, should be a lot more room in the grommet to do so. Next up will be some Seas H1396 (made in Norvay by Norvegians) tweeters in the A pillars. And I have an older Elemental Designs 8" sub I might see if I can get to replace the factory Honda sub, but that's going to be a while. My head unit is a Pioneer AVH-X2800BS from 2016. It doesn't have Apple Carplay or any of that cool stuff but it does allow me to do digital time alignment, active crossovers, and 13 band equalizer. It even has the ability to use a Pioneer Home theater receiver microphone and do tone sweeps in the car to setup more accurate time alignment and correct the eq curve for the vehicle the head unit is in. Ok that's enough car audio nerding out for now.
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Apr 9, 2020 17:26
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Coredump posted:It even has the ability to use a Pioneer Home theater receiver microphone and do tone sweeps in the car to setup more accurate time alignment and correct the eq curve for the vehicle the head unit is in. Ok that's enough car audio nerding out for now.
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Apr 9, 2020 17:38
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I'm a bit of an idiot that can't leave things alone, so I've been looking at the ideaa of upgrading the Harman Kardon speakers in my brand new car. As I understand it pretty much all cars have super cheap speakers, but is it really that big of a difference?
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Apr 9, 2020 17:48
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It can be. Factory premium stereos are usually a bit of a ripoff - you pay a substantial amount extra when the car is purchased for something with a good name on it, but generally not their top quality kit. I.e., your Harman Kardon setup is certainly better than whatever the base model option was, but certainly not as good as top end Harman Kardon, and probably more expensive than low end Harman Kardon. There are certainly factory stereos that are "fine" - they're not the best, but they're more than adequate for the average user. Personally, I have a weird mix of basically all the choices - I have a 2000 Mustang with the Mach 460 system and an aftermarket headunit, which sounds better than the original Mach 460, but not as good as full aftermarket, I have a Jeep Cherokee with a fully aftermarket mix of gear that is definitely the highest audio quality of any of the three (and not all that expensive, honestly), and my wife has a more modern Ford Focus which we optioned with the upgraded Sony stereo because, honestly, I didn't want to gently caress with it. It sounds fine, but certainly cost more than just putting a stereo in a base model would have. All that to say - the single best thing you can do if you already have the factory premium system is probably an aftermarket headunit. The factory premium speakers shouldn't be THAT bad.
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Apr 9, 2020 17:56
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I can only speak for Toyota's optional JBL system here, but the speakers they used (in 2003 anyway) looked to be only slightly better quality (still paper cones and poo poo surrounds). And the sub was so low power that using any aftermarket one (when the surround and cone disintegrate, because they're sitting in the sun) basically meant you got nothing. I've heard the Mach systems before, and to me, they sound terrible. Muddy bass and not a lot of anything else. Granted, my hearing is hosed, but I'm used to a $150 head unit + $75/pair speakers + old rear end sub. Not exactly a high end setup, but better than what most cars roll with. My Kenwood head unit offers a lot of customization, including speccing how far the speakers are from the driver, what size the speakers are, what kind of car (compact, mid size, coupe, sedan, wagon, etc etc etc), where the speakers are (door vs rear deck, etc), 7 band EQ, etc. TBH, in my old car (with sub/amp + speakers), most of that didn't make a noticeable difference for me except for the EQ. In my current car? The speakers make a lot of farting noises, because I'd rather buy beer instead of speakers, and I don't want to deal with running a power cable to the hatch (my last 2 cars had the battery in the trunk, so wiring up the sub was stupid easy). I also drive ~4 miles a day now instead of well over 100; I spend very little time in the car now. So I don't really give much of a poo poo at this point. TBH the only reason I even put my old Kenwood HU in was to get bluetooth. The factory radio worked fine. And I may throw it back in - I have a good set of bluetooth earbuds that handle calls far better than the Kenwood HU does, and the factory radio has a weather radio built in.  I honestly have no idea if the CD player works on the original one. I haven't tried it, and I think I've only used it a few times in the year and a half I've had the Kenwood. Don't really care TBH. I know the factory radio had an optional CD changer, I may see if Crutchfield carries an aux adapter for it... or see what it takes to add an aux input. Random upside: my car has a triple DIN opening, but both the factory and current radio are single DIN. They're real DIN too, so stuff just screws into the existing brackets without any brackets. I just lose storage pockets if I go to, say, a double DIN thing (... backup camera would be nice...) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:39 on Apr 10, 2020 |
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Apr 10, 2020 08:34
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STR posted:I've heard the Mach systems before, and to me, they sound terrible. Muddy bass and not a lot of anything else. Granted, my hearing is hosed, but I'm used to a $150 head unit + $75/pair speakers + old rear end sub. Not exactly a high end setup, but better than what most cars roll with.
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Apr 10, 2020 16:48
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I'm in the middle of installing a backup camera in my BRZ. I have the camera installed in the deck lid and starting to work the wiring up to the front. Rather than run a ground to the head unit, I found this in the trunk, it seems like a ground but I wanted to check before using it:
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Apr 11, 2020 23:29
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Almost def a ground. I'll let another person chime but I'd be willing to use it.
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Apr 12, 2020 00:13
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Dunno what else something screwed into the body could be. Can always bust out a multimeter.
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Apr 12, 2020 00:18
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Yeah you shouldn't be doing any of this without a multimeter, but yeah that looks like a ground.
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Apr 12, 2020 00:23
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I do have a multimeter, hopefully I have enough extra wire to reach the battery to test. edit: found a wiring diagram, I think I'm good:  Its point H1 DrChu fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Apr 12, 2020 |
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Apr 12, 2020 00:44
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DrChu posted:I'm in the middle of installing a backup camera in my BRZ. I have the camera installed in the deck lid and starting to work the wiring up to the front. Rather than run a ground to the head unit, I found this in the trunk, it seems like a ground but I wanted to check before using it: Any wire you attach to the chassis is going to be a ground.
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Apr 12, 2020 01:50
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MikeyTsi posted:Any wire you attach to the chassis is going to be a ground. 
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Apr 12, 2020 02:49
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MikeyTsi posted:Any wire you attach to the chassis is going to be a ground. drat that's so simple that now I feel like a dummy. 
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Apr 12, 2020 03:41
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Krakkles posted:It can be. Hmm I see. Thanks. 
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Apr 12, 2020 08:39
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Coredump posted:drat that's so simple that now I feel like a dummy. I wouldn't worry about it. It's one of those things that you don't think about until it's mentioned, and then you'll never forget again. That particular bolt is clearly intended to be ground, so you'll be fine, but any other handy chassis bolt works too, provided it's not otherwise insulated and it's not covered in paint. Personally I like using seat-belt mounting bolts for amplifier ground.
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Apr 12, 2020 19:56
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I have a strong suspicion that using seat or seatbelt mounting bolts as a ground may be illegal is some jurisdictions, not due to any electrical properties, but because the bolt and mount etc were designed around not having a ring terminal shoved in there. It should be safe as long as it's torqued correctly, but it's something to consider.
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Apr 13, 2020 01:51
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I feel so dumb. I need a harness to wire my speaker level output into this amp. I can find a thousand harnesses on Ebay that are female (male?) Like what I already have but can't find the other gendered connector to save my life. I'm sure the thing is my amp came with one but I was using this for my sub and am now planning to use this for my coaxial speakers. So... without just shoving wires in these holes (ha) how do I get one of these? e: I could buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-1191Pcs-Housing-Connector-Compatible/dp/B07TB8QXMC Nichol fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Apr 21, 2020 |
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Apr 21, 2020 07:19
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Nichol posted:I feel so dumb. I need a harness to wire my speaker level output into this amp. I can find a thousand harnesses on Ebay that are female (male?) Like what I already have but can't find the other gendered connector to save my life. I'm sure the thing is my amp came with one but I was using this for my sub and am now planning to use this for my coaxial speakers. The make and model number for the amp would be helpful. Does it also have low level inputs?
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Apr 21, 2020 07:37
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It is a clarion xr2210. The manual says it came with a harness but that is 10 years gone so. It does have low level inputs but the head low level is hooked up to my sub E: or this: https://www.amazon.com/2-54MM-Femal...7450969&sr=8-30 Ee: or this: https://www.amazon.com/TOOHUI-Conne...7451505&sr=8-57 Nichol fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Apr 21, 2020 |
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Apr 21, 2020 07:40
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Nichol posted:It is a clarion xr2210. The manual says it came with a harness but that is 10 years gone so. The steps I would take would be contact Clarion directly to see if they have something for you, or at least point you in the correct direction. If that didn't work, I would look at getting a line out converter to run your speaker level output to the low level input of the amp. I would also consider a new head unit that has 6 channel RCA outputs, if possible in your vehicle, or a new (used) amp. Unless I was looking for a project I wouldn't mess with trying to recreate a proprietary plug, especially when you could get a new amp for less than $80 https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_121755_Pioneer-GM-A3702.html
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Apr 21, 2020 08:14
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This is a fine point to the extent that what I really need is a better head unit, but I've been putting off that investment for eons, I'm trying to save $$ here and it's not so much a proprietary connector as a ubiquitous and standardized one..... hmmm
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Apr 21, 2020 09:05
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Nichol posted:This is a fine point to the extent that what I really need is a better head unit, but I've been putting off that investment for eons, I'm trying to save $$ here and it's not so much a proprietary connector as a ubiquitous and standardized one..... hmmm You could also get real wild and just solder the wires directly to the plug terminals.
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Apr 21, 2020 09:08
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Or just get a crimper and ferrule terminal ends small enough to fit. like this maybe
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Apr 21, 2020 11:57
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Looks like you found it, though it's always hard to tell. Searching JST XH 5-pin brings up a bunch of options. Ebay has some with free but slow shipping; Digikey and Mouser are reliable but shipping isn't free.
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Apr 24, 2020 15:33
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Captain Cool posted:Looks like you found it, though it's always hard to tell. Searching JST XH 5-pin brings up a bunch of options. Ebay has some with free but slow shipping; Digikey and Mouser are reliable but shipping isn't free. Bigger question: I currently have a 900w 2ch powering dual subs as my only amp between the deck (45wx4) and any speakers. I have the 2ch 90x2 mentioned above that I should like to use to drive my front coaxial speakers. Should i: Run a new power line from the battery terminal (new fuse near batt terminal) Add a splitter between batt terminal and power both amps on one line (the line from batt to the big amp is currently 0g), I would need to split into 2x2g? And add more fuses? Some other thing???? Nichol fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Apr 24, 2020 |
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Apr 24, 2020 19:04
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Anyone have any experience with Volvo amps? My 2016 AM DB9 has this Volvo subwoofer amp and the subwoofer doesn't have any sound coming out of it. I know it's not the fuse, because unplugging it makes all the speakers stop (because fiber loop  ), but I'm not sure how to tell if it's the amp, the infotainment, or the wiring.Edit: Yes, I checked to make sure the subwoofer volume wasn't turned down. I'd reset the infotainment to factory settings, but I'm not sure there's a way to do that.
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Apr 25, 2020 21:04
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Do you have VIDA? I think the sub has a canbus interface and some info would show in vida
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Apr 25, 2020 21:22
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I don't - my tools are pretty much whatever you'd find around a normal house. I do have a Bluetooth OBD2 reader, but nothing proprietary. I'm not sure a Volvo interface would even talk to an Aston Martin. I think they just use the audio setup.
KillHour fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Apr 25, 2020 |
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Apr 25, 2020 21:44
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I meant the amp, but I guess it doesn't have canbus if those are the connections in total.
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Apr 25, 2020 21:50
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Anywhere I can find a pinout for the amp? Maybe I can deduce something from that. Edit: Here's a better listing for the same amp with the connectors visible. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aston-Martin-Vantage-Volvo-Amplifier-Radio-Premium-Amplifier-31210040-31210041-/163930493186 Double edit: Maybe I should just buy the one off the first listing for 40 bucks and see if that fixes it. KillHour fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Apr 25, 2020 |
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Apr 25, 2020 21:54
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This is the pinout of the 16-pin connector on the AUM, however, I am not sure it's the right bit for the subwoofer, this seems like everything but the sub. Maybe I need to tell vida I'm using a vehicle with a sub installed.
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Apr 25, 2020 22:17
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How many wires are actually in that big grey plug on your car? The first listing claims that sub amp is also used for cars including the 2010 C70, and apparently my library's Chilton subscription has wiring diagrams for that. Here's all it shows for what I believe to be the same unit:  The letters seem to be the connector names, with C looking like the fiber optic, and A looking like the big two-pin connector. For what it's worth, it looks like on that car the power is triggered by the "CEM", seems like a body control module. A1 runs through some fuses to get to a relay controlled by CEM, A2 runs to ground. B would then appear to be the big connector, but at least this diagram only shows four wires in it, which are just outputs straight to the sub(s).
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Apr 25, 2020 22:17
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IOwnCalculus posted:How many wires are actually in that big grey plug on your car? 8   IOwnCalculus posted:For what it's worth, it looks like on that car the power is triggered by the "CEM", seems like a body control module. A1 runs through some fuses to get to a relay controlled by CEM, A2 runs to ground. If I unplug A, all the speakers shut off, so I know the unit is getting power, at least. KillHour fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Apr 25, 2020 |
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Apr 25, 2020 22:28
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Yeah, I'd bet that diagram I posted is accurate enough then, with each of those pin pairs (1/6, 2/7, 4/9, 5/10) feeding a speaker. Theoretically you should be able to put a multimeter across each of those pin pairs and get continuity, but not with any other pair. If you want to confirm, if you can get at one of the subs, you should probably see matching wire colors. Given that there's no signal other than the fiber, and you've already determined that the fiber itself is good, and you're straight up getting no output, I'm inclined to think you do have a dead amp. I'd expect a wiring problem between the amp and the speakers to have at least some intermittent or partial behavior, unless somehow all four of those pairs got severed at once. edit: Unplugging A killing everything else also confirms that the fiber to/from the unit is good, and the signal it's seeing is likely usable, because it's able to accurately repeat whatever it sees so the network still works.
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Apr 25, 2020 22:35
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