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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Yeah they're omnidirectional. I should have worried more about that. I'll try rigging something to ram them near my face first. Actually, I got my mittens on a cardioid microphone and it didn't make any difference. I think the issue is that it's generally designed to pick up similarly as well as the omnidirectional from the sides.
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Apr 11, 2020 01:53
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Rocko Bonaparte posted:Actually, I got my mittens on a cardioid microphone and it didn't make any difference. Unless you can, like, get a shotgun mic and a table stand and point it at yourself. Or maybe a Cs1000s from AKG
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Apr 11, 2020 05:58
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FilthyImp posted:Hypercardioid is probably what you want. Probably. I'm guessing I want whatever a poor-rear end Twitch streamer is using.
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Apr 11, 2020 06:32
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I feel like the mic type might not make as much difference as you’d hope in this situation. How is the mic positioned now? Ideally you’d do something like a headset mic on an arm right by your mouth on the opposite side of your face from your wife. A bigger mic like the C1000s or whatever you’re going to have to have further away from your mouth and I think that might wind up negating a lot of the benefit you’d get from the pickup pattern. You don’t necessarily want what a high end twitch streamer or whoever has because I’m guessing they aren’t trying to remove the voice of someone right next to them from the stream. All that said, if you do try, make sure to look at the polar pattern to figure out how to position the mic to make the most of the pickup patter dead spots. Here’s one for the c1000, for example: https://www.akg.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-masterCatalog_Harman/default/dw4a1dad15/pdfs/AKG_C1000S_Polar_Patterns.pdf Did you try the noise gating apps?
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Apr 12, 2020 04:23
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You could try using push-to-talk as well.
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Apr 12, 2020 05:10
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Man why don't Monoprice.co.uk have the same items for sale as Monoprice.com I really wanna try a couple of those Monolith 12's. The cost to import them is bad enough but I'd also get hit with the UK's luxury electronic goods import tax Ak Gara fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Apr 13, 2020 |
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Apr 12, 2020 23:58
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I just got a new 4ktv. I bought a new receiver, but forgot to ask... If I use optical out from the tv to my old receiver, and just plug all hdmi devices into the tv, will there be a difference between however many lost hdmi additional ports?
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Apr 22, 2020 16:07
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Some TV sets don't output more than 2.0 from an optical port on them.
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Apr 22, 2020 16:10
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It’s a lg c9. It looks like I’m able to. If this is possible I’d love to save the money and lose some convince if that’s all I’m missing.
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Apr 22, 2020 16:22
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My problem with my soundbar still had basically no solution. Anytime I am in a system menu or video game that has short sounds or brief periods of silence (like when the screen goes black between rooms loading) the sound will just totally cut out for a second and then on the soundbar display it pops up "PCM" like it is detecting the sound mode. It's really annoying. The soundbar actually has a "Standby" mode you can see in it's display anytime you turn the TV off, that is not popping up so I don't think it's going into standby. It is just forgetting if it's PCM or Dolby or whatever. I've tried several different settings on the tv for Passthrough , Auto, or PCM and the problem is the same but all three with normally otherwise. I've also tried switching between PCM and bitstream no avail. I wish I knew whether this is my soundbar being stupid or my tv being stupid. This problem happens on my Nintendo Switch and in internal tv apps. This is a JBL 3.1 and LG smart TV, has anyone had any kind of similar problem and been able to fix? Edit: this is all over HDMI arc John Wick of Dogs fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Apr 22, 2020 |
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Apr 22, 2020 16:43
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Veskit posted:It’s a lg c9. It looks like I’m able to. If this is possible I’d love to save the money and lose some convince if that’s all I’m missing. Skip the optical and use HDMI-ARC if both devices support it. Optical is severely limited, and ARC should work via the HDMI cable you were going to run anyway.
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Apr 22, 2020 16:47
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eddiewalker posted:Skip the optical and use HDMI-ARC if both devices support it. Optical is severely limited, and ARC should work via the HDMI cable you were going to run anyway. The way I see it is that it’s 250 dollars to use arc, and I’m trying to balance whether or not it’s worth it. If optical is limited then it’s really a question of what am I losing for 250. I’ll reconnect and try and see what it sounds like and go from there. Thanks!!! Veskit fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Apr 22, 2020 |
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Apr 22, 2020 17:18
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Veskit posted:The way I see it is that it’s 250 dollars to use arc, and I’m trying to balance whether or not it’s worth it. If optical is limited then it’s really a question of what am I losing for 250 Optical is fine for stereo signals, as it does uncompressed stereo at basically any bitrate you want, but for surround it's limited to Dolby Digital (AC-3) or DTS. It's not horrible, but you can't do uncompressed surround formats. And obviously it depends on your TV, as mentioned.
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Apr 22, 2020 17:27
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Ak Gara posted:Man why don't Monoprice.co.uk have the same items for sale as Monoprice.com For woofers in the UK I'm a big fan of BK Worth checking Ebay for their 'Grade B' items too. The mark on mine that made it a second is pretty much invisible in daylight when looking for it, let alone in a dim room at a distance.
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Apr 22, 2020 18:37
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It's funny how with all the ways of getting sound out of a TV, and I'm here in 2020 with a 3.5mm cable running back into my amp because for multizone on a non-$1000+ amp you can only independently do a second zone from an analog input. Hell, I'm not even sure that spending $$ on a higher end amp would even solve my issues as a lot of issues are down to the source being multichannel and the 2nd zone being a stereo output, and previous setups have meant me not getting the dialog come through. Nothing is ever simple!
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Apr 22, 2020 18:43
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KozmoNaut posted:Optical is fine for stereo signals, as it does uncompressed stereo at basically any bitrate you want, but for surround it's limited to Dolby Digital (AC-3) or DTS. Well, it turns out the compression type that the tv is outputing isn't a signal my old receiver can handle without doing some wonky magic to make it produce sound so I'm considering that DOA. With that said I've tried doing research, on my LG B9 oled and it can produce eARC, so does that mean I need or should buy an eARC receiver? Will getting the right receiver also resolve this issue i'm running into? https://www.cnet.com/forums/discussions/lg-oled-audio-dropping-out-arc/ Receivers got so much more  over the past 5 years sorry for all the confusion.
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Apr 24, 2020 00:03
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arsegrit posted:For woofers in the UK I'm a big fan of BK Thanks I'll check them out  Veskit posted:Well, it turns out the compression type that the tv is outputing isn't a signal my old receiver can handle without doing some wonky magic to make it produce sound so I'm considering that DOA. It's completely backwards. If you want a receiver with preouts (ie you're using powered monitors like JBL 306p MKII), you need to go up to the higher level ones with the more powerful amps which you won't even be using And if you want "standalones" (just a receiver, no amp) well then that's now considered "enthusiast level" and hah gently caress you add a zero to the price! 
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Apr 24, 2020 00:42
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Ak Gara posted:It's completely backwards. If you want a receiver with preouts (ie you're using powered monitors like JBL 306p MKII), you need to go up to the higher level ones with the more powerful amps which you won't even be using Lol I'm still having this god drat Dolby atmos issue from netflix that is causing audio issues, and is this something that needs to be resolved with a better receiver or do i just change the sound settings and keep on keeping on and live a life with no surround sound (i only have a 2.1 system no desire for it)? Also am i future shooting myself in the foot if some gaming system comes out and fucks up my audio cause i have a lesser receiver.
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Apr 24, 2020 01:13
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Veskit posted:Lol I'm still having this god drat Dolby atmos issue from netflix that is causing audio issues, and is this something that needs to be resolved with a better receiver or do i just change the sound settings and keep on keeping on and live a life with no surround sound (i only have a 2.1 system no desire for it)? If you only have 2 speakers try setting your devices to output PCM, should clear up any weird decoding issues instantly.
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Apr 24, 2020 01:14
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qirex posted:If you only have 2 speakers try setting your devices to output PCM, should clear up any weird decoding issues instantly. I will do that thanks!
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Apr 24, 2020 01:25
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I have a current gen Yamaha S202 stereo receiver and an old Sony DE875 5.1 AVR. They're both 100wpc but the Sony seems to put out way more power. For example, if I have both of them set to 100%, the Sony will get "loud" at 5 or 6% volume on my source while the Yamaha needs to go to 15%. Similarly, if I use line in, the Yamaha needs to be about 60% to be loud while the Sony dial does fine with a quarter turn. The same thing happens with with headphones. Why would there be such a huge discrepancy?
Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Apr 24, 2020 |
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Apr 24, 2020 02:04
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Ak Gara posted:Thanks I'll check them out I meeeeeeeeean... yes? It's cheaper and more profitable to manufacture a lot of something that will mostly meet everyone's needs than to build tens of boutique items that do the specific thing that you and a handful of other people want. Receivers cost more than just the sum of their components to make, and if you want a niche thing made of nice components it's really going to cost you. What do you consider an expensive price point? Because Emotiva makes a loving spectacular 7.2 channel preamp called the XMC-1 that does 4k + HDR that is like $1100/1200. But they also make a 16 channel (9.1.6) Atmos/DTS:X prepro that is just batshit nuts and costs like $5000 Both of those price points are what I would consider "bargain" territory for what they are. I mean you could spend like $3000 and get the XMC-2... that does essentially the same thing but isn't this fully discrete behemoth that the RMC-1 is. Or you could spend like $4000 on a Denon full receiver with a bunch of "unnecessary" frills like bluetooth, and airplay, and an iPhone app, and get a few less channels, but not need to buy amps. A Marantz 13.2 pre will set you back drat near $3000 and that's only if you can find a hella good bargain. But on the other side of that coin, you can spend a fuckton less and make a lot of compromises and wind up with a 10 year old, used/refrb'd 5.1 receiver that doesn't even have HDMI inputs but still costs like $250 somehow. Veskit I bought a used Emotiva XDA-2 that worked perfectly for what you need and cost me like $100. Then I bought an Emotiva XPA-2 that cost me another $100 and I was very happy. Then I bought an UMC-200 because it was $100 and so "gently caress it why not?" and I saw an XPA-200 that was $200 and I thought... eh gently caress it why not? I'm already in this deep. And now I have 4 separates that I didn't have to spend all that money on, because I could have probably just done with a cheap lovely receiver, or a $20 DAC instead, but you know what? I'm happy. I found boutique separates that perfectly fit my use case (I needed them to work with my TV remote, deliver 100WPC, and be less than 3.5" tall) and they've been nothing but perfect. I don't even know what the point of this whole rant was. If you just want stereo, then turn off surround sound.
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Apr 24, 2020 02:07
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Josh Lyman posted:I have a current gen Yamaha S202 stereo receiver and an old Sony DE875 5.1 AVR. They're both 100wpc but the Sony seems to put out way more power. For example, if I have both of them set to 100%, the Sony will get "loud" at 5 or 6% volume on my source while the Yamaha needs to go to 15%. Similarly, if I use line in, the Yamaha needs to be about 60% to be loud while the Sony dial does fine with a quarter turn. The same thing happens with with headphones. Why would there be such a huge discrepancy? Wpc hasn’t really meant anything since the 70s. They’re all kinda phony numbers now.
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Apr 24, 2020 13:02
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BigFactory posted:Wpc hasn’t really meant anything since the 70s. They’re all kinda phony numbers now. Some manufacturers are honest [or even conservative] about their power ratings but that does nothing because you still can't compare it to to other stuff.
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Apr 24, 2020 16:47
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How important is it for the center speaker to match the mains in a 5.1 setup? The bookshelves I ordered are new old stock so the matching center isn’t available. I could get a lower tier center that has the same woofer (x2) but slightly inferior tweeter. I could also get another one of the bookshelves but it would lay on its side. I know that isn’t recommended due to lobing, but I could always change positioning in the future. Or I could save $60 or $70 and buy something used locally. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Apr 25, 2020 |
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Apr 25, 2020 01:43
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Honest question: will you listen to anything anyone says or continue buying truckloads of garage sale crap?
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Apr 25, 2020 01:55
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qirex posted:Honest question: will you listen to anything anyone says or continue buying truckloads of garage sale crap? Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Apr 25, 2020 |
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Apr 25, 2020 01:57
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If you want to use a center it should be the best speaker in your whole system, like half your whole speaker budget.
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Apr 25, 2020 20:02
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qirex posted:If you want to use a center it should be the best speaker in your whole system, like half your whole speaker budget. I know Steve Guttenberg isn't taken seriously but he definitely knows more than I do, and he says a center speaker isn't necessary if you don't really listen off-axis (my situation), that 4.1 is fine, though the context is that most people's mains are nicer than their center. I tried moving my current satellites to the center of the TV and while I could tell the sound was coming from the center, dialogue wasn't particularly better. There's also the drawback that my mains would mostly be wasted during movies while the center does most of the work. Hmm. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Apr 26, 2020 |
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Apr 26, 2020 05:14
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I dunno if this is the right thead, but does anyone have a recommendation for something reasonably priced that will mix two stereo line-in and a mic then pipe it in via USB?
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May 15, 2020 18:11
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I’m attempting to use two amps, an integrated and a A/V receiver, with one pair of speakers due to room constraints. Has anyone ever set something like this up before? Aiming to maintain the convenience of being able to turn everything on/off via my Apple TV, but use the integrated for the turntable since it’s an all around better amp/phono stage. I found something from Niles (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006HOFR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EyTVEbXV1NBYQ) that can switch inputs into one pair of speakers, but this thing looks like an afterthought, spring clamps and all.
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May 15, 2020 19:01
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Unless your integrated has a home theater bypass function you are on a path of woe. Quality speaker selectors are surprisingly complex and expensive. Maybe look at getting an outboard phono preamp to make your AVR sound better for music?
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May 15, 2020 19:24
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If your AV receiver has pre amp outs, feed those into your stereo amp and then the turntable into it also. Fronts are then powered by the stereo amp, surrounds and centre by the receiver. ...but I bet yours doesn't have pre outs. 
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May 15, 2020 20:24
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No real pre-out other than a ‘zone 2.’ It’s a Denon x2100w. I have a NAD PP2e plugged into it currently and the sound is fine, just a bit boring. The integrated is a Sony 1120A which is why I’m trying to avoid having to flip it on every time we want to watch tv. I might have to do plan B and jam a second set of speakers in there.
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May 15, 2020 20:37
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BlackMK4 posted:I dunno if this is the right thead, but does anyone have a recommendation for something reasonably priced that will mix two stereo line-in and a mic then pipe it in via USB? Join us. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3599662
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May 15, 2020 21:35
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Wow, I did not expect that. Thank you
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May 15, 2020 21:54
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This is probably an all around naive question but whatever. I don’t usually care to listen at a particularly high volume, living in an apartment and all that, but I’d still like to get something that sounds nice, just a stereo pair. So volume-wise, I could do with fairly small speakers, but then, I’d imagine they’d be physically incapable of producing very low frequencies and all that? So alternatively I could get something medium sized, but then I would almost always listen to them at way below ”capacity” in terms of volume. So the question is, is this bad for audio quality or something, like are these things optimized towards playing as loudly as the comfortably can?
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May 16, 2020 21:15
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My sis asked me to help her pick out a stereo receiver for her husband for use in the garage. I gather it's just gonna be used for AM/FM and Bluetooth, maybe piping in audio from the TV. The one part that is throwing me is that he has four speakers setup in the garage, hanging from the ceiling, and I'm getting all confused by the impedance discussion. Unfortunately, she can't get a good look at them, so I don't know what the specs on the speakers are; is 8 ohm the most common? I was assuming that he would hook them up in an A+B configuration. I'm looking at a Pioneer SX-10AE, which says: quote:Note that when connecting to both SPEAKERS A and B terminals, connect speakers with 8 ohm to 16 ohm impedance to both A and B. And a Yamaha R-S202, which says: quote:SPEAKERS A and SPEAKERS B 16 ohm or higher(except for North America model) Seems like the Pioneer will work properly with a larger range of speakers in this case. I dunno, halp?
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May 16, 2020 22:20
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sinc posted:This is probably an all around naive question but whatever. I don’t usually care to listen at a particularly high volume, living in an apartment and all that, but I’d still like to get something that sounds nice, just a stereo pair. So volume-wise, I could do with fairly small speakers, but then, I’d imagine they’d be physically incapable of producing very low frequencies and all that? So alternatively I could get something medium sized, but then I would almost always listen to them at way below ”capacity” in terms of volume. So the question is, is this bad for audio quality or something, like are these things optimized towards playing as loudly as the comfortably can? Listening at "below capacity" as you put it isn't really about the speakers, it's about human hearing. The speakers will reproduce low frequencies just fine at low levels, but we won't hear them very well, since our hearing gets less sensitive the lower the frequency gets. This is exactly what the "loudness" function on older amplifiers was designed to compensate for, as are the dynamic EQ functions in modern receivers. They boost primarily the low frequencies to counteract the somewhat thin sound you get a lower volumes. Get the good speakers, adjust bass/treble/EQ to a level that sounds good at your preferred listening level and enjoy!
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May 16, 2020 23:08
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Yes, quality over volume every time. You can blow 10 grand on the rest of the setup but you may as well flush that down the toilet if the speakers are subpar. Absolutely get the nicest mid-sized pair that you can justifiably afford. E: Conversely, btw, you can completely cheap out on the rest of the setup but with really nice speakers it'll still sound very good (as long as you don't crank it beyond the amp's capacity to deliver power). Hipster_Doofus fucked around with this message at 12:31 on May 17, 2020 |
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May 17, 2020 12:29
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