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Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Been looking at Miatas for a bit now, There's a guy I've been talking to about a green '02 with 57k miles on it that he's selling for his mom. Looks mint, was planning on going to look at it in a few weeks or so.

Then today found a Montego Blue '95, 46k miles, Torsen, and looks mint as well. Or as the seller put it "a time capsule"

Both sellers are asking $7500

I thought I really wanted an NB2 because VVT, but drat this Montego NA looks so sweet.....

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Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
The VVT should only catch your eye if you’re willing to do I/H/E and a standalone. Bone stock it’ll feel marginally quicker due to the extra bit of torque and possibly a 4.3 in the back. My point is the VVT motor itself isn’t a massive selling point onto itself unless if you have brainworms like I do and are ready (and willing) to spend $100 per whp ($1k MS3, $450 RB header, $300 header back, $150 in misc aluminum tubing and silicone elbows). It’s a perfectly serviceable BP motor, but it’s not like an F20C marvel of engineering; after all, they only put VVT on the intake cam to fudge emissions.

The NB2 is the “better” car chassis wise, but Montego Blue is so good.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Yeah that was the plan with VVT, I wouldn't mind spending that much if it's worthwhile....Is it?

I just think the NA looks so much better tho and I've had four already so I'm biased.....But like you said too, better chassis on the NB2.

So I don't know, guess I'll have to look at each one.

Here's the NA, looks like he has a Montego Blue FD in his garage too!

Eyud
Aug 5, 2006

God that Montego NA/FD combo is so good, I'd never sell either.

E: I say buy the NA and put a tan top on it.

Eyud fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Apr 16, 2020

UnkleBoB
Jul 24, 2000

Beginner's Version, Copyright,
1991 - Please Copy and Distribute
Get the Montego so we can cruise together in our NAs when things normalize eventually.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

The guy selling the Montego is a flipper, only had the car a few months and had no clue about it’s history. It looked good but every fluid under the hood was black and it was pretty clear it hadn’t been maintained too well. Gonna look at the NB next, soon hopefully

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!

Applebees Appetizer posted:

The guy selling the Montego is a flipper, only had the car a few months and had no clue about it’s history. It looked good but every fluid under the hood was black and it was pretty clear it hadn’t been maintained too well. Gonna look at the NB next, soon hopefully

That sucks. It's good to see you excited about cars though, I know you've been going through some crap lately. I hope you find the right Miata. I'll likely dump mine in a few months.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Thanks man. I've been looking at Wranglers too, so I guess whatever I find first at the right price I'll grab. I just want a convertible, almost bought a Z4, but it's down to Miata or Wrangler now.

Viperix
Apr 21, 2006
I'm looking at buying a '20 GT RF as a daily... in Minnesota. Am I crazy?

I don't really need the cargo space(single, no kids.) - and everyone I know has a bigger car than me, should I need to haul anything. While I fully intend to get snow tires, on really bad days if I can't make it to work it's an inconvenience rather than a deal breaker. I grew up driving on winter roads, including gravel, though my experience is limited with RWD. I have the time, patience, and means to take good care of a car.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
why not?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
ND questions:

Club is the only ND trim with LSD? No hope for GT?

ND2 worth it over ND1, or just tune a ND1 for cheaper?

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

blk posted:

ND questions:

Club is the only ND trim with LSD? No hope for GT?

ND2 worth it over ND1, or just tune a ND1 for cheaper?

Yeah AFAIK the Club is the only one with the LSD (I can't speak for the 30th Anniversary Edition though). I haven't driven an ND2 but I don't feel I need the extra hp even up at my 7000ft. Sure it would be nice but if the price difference is big enough I wouldn't worry about it and just get the ND1. Purely with an ecu tune I think you can approach ND2 power levels.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

The changes go beyond an ecu tune, so keep that in mind. I'd go for ND2 if at all possible.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

ND2 GT has a LSD option, at least in the US.

edit: actually, did they get rid of it? I’m looking on the Mazda website now. The 2019 definitely had it, the GT-S package.

Toe Rag fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Apr 19, 2020

Zorak of Michigan
Jun 10, 2006

All 2020 GTs have it, inheriting it from the Club.

Hikaki
Oct 11, 2005
Motherfucking Fujitsu Heavy Industries
The ND2 has better engine internals and will come with a better revision of the weak transmission. I think it's worth it. That said, most of the extra power from the ND2 comes from the higher redline which you can achieve with an ND1 tune, and I was quoted less than $2k parts+labor for a used transmission replacement which is not that bad. So it's not the end of the world if you can only afford the ND1.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

This guy is building an EV NB, looks like he's just getting started: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PX5XE5mMF38

I've seen a few EV miatas before but they mostly seemed like hackjobs so I'm curious how it would come out. 120kg of batteries for 26kWh (so like 80 miles max range?) isn't great but would be enough for bombing around town at least.

djfooboo
Oct 16, 2004




Tell me about FM reception with a stubby antennae for an NB1. I tried a stubby on my NA and reception was atrocious so I had to go back. Did I just buy a bad product back then?

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
A stubby on my ND has been fine in the city except deep in parking garages where it gets a bit fuzzy going up and down the ramps.

I did have a cheap stubby at first though that sheared off, so there is definitely something to be said about getting a quality one.

Goober Peas
Jun 30, 2007

Check out my 'Vette, bro


From my experience, retrofitting a stubby never gives the performance as the original. But those that come from the factory with stubbies work just as well as those with mast.

The Prong Song
Sep 7, 2002


WHITE
DRIVES
MATTER
You need an antenna tuner if the aftermarket stubby is not tuned. Which they probably are not as most everything is made as cheap as possible nowadays.

EDIT: Just get a used S2K antenna.

The Prong Song fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Apr 22, 2020

BloodBag
Sep 20, 2008

WITNESS ME!



Who's got two thumbs and just dropped a whole ton of money on fresh weatherstripping for a 25 year old miata? This guy.

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Looking to replace my clutch and the old stock exhaust that likely won't even be able to be reused once it comes off to replace the clutch.

91 NA 1.6

Any suggestions for a stock clutch replacement kit? I won't be doing more than bolt-ons so doesn't need to handle power, just some spirited driving.

I'm currently looking at this cat-back system: https://mossmiata.com/1990-1997-miata/exhaust/exhaust-systems-mufflers-pipes-tips/cat-back-performance-exhaust-system-by-cobalt-1

I have an aftermarket header from my brother he never installed, and was going to get some compatible free-flowing cat as well. The Cobalt has a good low tone and isn't very expensive, so it seemed like a fine choice.

This isn't exactly a cherry NA specimen so I'm trying to avoid a lot of cash put into it.

Diametunim
Oct 26, 2010

BloodBag posted:

Who's got two thumbs and just dropped a whole ton of money on fresh weatherstripping for a 25 year old miata? This guy.
It's going to look so good though. Have you made any progress on the paint job? Just curious, how much was the bill?

ShaneB posted:

Looking to replace my clutch and the old stock exhaust that likely won't even be able to be reused once it comes off to replace the clutch.

91 NA 1.6

Any suggestions for a stock clutch replacement kit? I won't be doing more than bolt-ons so doesn't need to handle power, just some spirited driving.

I'm currently looking at this cat-back system: https://mossmiata.com/1990-1997-miata/exhaust/exhaust-systems-mufflers-pipes-tips/cat-back-performance-exhaust-system-by-cobalt-1

I have an aftermarket header from my brother he never installed, and was going to get some compatible free-flowing cat as well. The Cobalt has a good low tone and isn't very expensive, so it seemed like a fine choice.

This isn't exactly a cherry NA specimen so I'm trying to avoid a lot of cash put into it.

If you're only doing bolt-ons I think you best bet would be to use the OEM Exedy Clutch. They're cheap ($100) and hold stock power. In your case I believe the only reason you would want to use any other clutch would be to modify the clutch feel. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. The other thing you could do is pick up a FM Happy Meal kit if you're looking to install a lightened flywheel with the clutch replacement.

As far as I know cat back exhausts on the NA / NB Miata are pretty much 100% user choice so choose whichever sounds best to you.

BloodBag
Sep 20, 2008

WITNESS ME!



Diametunim posted:

It's going to look so good though. Have you made any progress on the paint job? Just curious, how much was the bill?

I keep meaning to make a thread but I'm always exhausted at the end of the day and even more so at the end of a day working on the miata. The paint is 'done' so much as it's on the car and it's clearcoated, but it needs wet sanding and a buffing and I don't have the paper or the buffer yet. I was going to work it from 1500-2000-3000 grits with the trusty dual action and then get an autogeek kit with a porter cable.

The primer, basecoat, and clearcoat ran about $750 altogether. E: I've read that to change a car's color to this extent would have run around $8,000 to have it professionally done, and I now know why. It's PPG shopline paint and honestly I didn't need to buy a whole gallon of it. The miata is such a small car that I only ran through a half gallon of both base and clear. Primer, base, and clear all shoot completely differently and honestly the learning curve was very steep. The first time I shot primer, the epoxy solids had all settled out and I didn't know I had to mix it really well with a stir stick so the whole coat ran right off the bumper and left a hard clear shell that was a massive pain in the rear end to take off. I ended up bying an HTE gun at harbor freight specifically for clear coat. A word of advice for clear: make sure that gun gets all the volume of air as fast as you can cram it in there or it will orange peel to gently caress. Clear is such a temperamental pain in the rear end and there is so much technique to shooting it, much more so than primer or base. I can't say I'll ever do this again.



The IL motorsports rear finish panel is a really nice piece and lines up very well with the rest of the car, can highly recommend.

BloodBag fucked around with this message at 11:42 on Apr 25, 2020

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
Looks great. Lots of work!

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




That colour is fantastic, that looks awesome.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
really nice pop on the color

GOD IS BED
Jun 17, 2010

ALL HAIL GOD MAMMON
:minnie:

College Slice
That color is gorgeous, and it looks like your hard work paid off in a big way. I can't wait to see it all put together.

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


BloodBag posted:

.



The IL motorsports rear finish panel is a really nice piece and lines up very well with the rest of the car, can highly recommend.


This looks very close to my favorite car color of all time, Porsche Miami Blue.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
Yeah that looks amazing. Good job man.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。

Russian Bear posted:

This looks very close to my favorite car color of all time, Porsche Miami Blue.

:thunk:

BloodBag
Sep 20, 2008

WITNESS ME!



Russian Bear posted:

This looks very close to my favorite car color of all time, Porsche Miami Blue.






Well spotted! That's exactly the color I've painted it. The first time I saw a Boxster in that color I fell in love. I've always wanted a car in a lurid blue, and this one really fits the bill.

E: it's the strangest blue. It looks almost teal, peacock, or aquamarine in darker lighting and almost like Ford grabber blue in direct sunlight. I've never seen another color change hues like this depending on the light.

BloodBag fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Apr 25, 2020

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
montego blue mica :ssh:

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




BloodBag posted:

E: it's the strangest blue. It looks almost teal, peacock, or aquamarine in darker lighting and almost like Ford grabber blue in direct sunlight. I've never seen another color change hues like this depending on the light.

It's pretty similar to the hikari blue that was available on a few subarus as a special edition, seemingly with a bit more green. My partner has a BRZ in that colour:



It's another one that varies big time based on lighting.

Voltage
Sep 4, 2004

MALT LIQUOR!
A few quick questions if anyone is familar with overhauling an NA suspension -

Going to install:
Energy suspension bushings
KYB AGX shocks+ Flyin' miata springs
KYB mounts/bump stops/boots
Mazdaspeed ~competition~ motor mounts
ProForged upper+lower ball joints, tie rod ends, tie rod... rods

I'm in the midst of the install right now, just pulled everything out of the rear and pressed out the old and installed the new Energy bushings, just waiting on a c-clamp press to do the final bushing that is in the rear hub.
pulled out front/rear shocks
disconnected front ball joints

I am trying to assemble the new shocks now, but i have a mystery washer that came with the boot kit - where on earth does this go?

???


the old ones have no washer on the mount:



I also bought the tie rods themselves - I assume replacing these is a waste of time?




BloodBag
Sep 20, 2008

WITNESS ME!



I think the washer goes on top of the bump stop but under the strut hat. All I can tell you is you get to do it a few times and eventually do it right in the end. I hate suspension work and it always ends up that way.

A word to the wise, I think you'd like the fatcat motorsports progressive bumpstops more. The stock-like ones come on waaay too fast and upset the rear end in my experience.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
The R package tie rod ends alleviate some of the geometry issues when you lower the car, but you didn't specify which ones you bought...

Voltage
Sep 4, 2004

MALT LIQUOR!
I got these
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pof-104-10546/model/miata

and these:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pof-104-10152/make/mazda/model/miata

(but from rockauto, just easier to link these)

I assume I can just return the main tie rods, unless there is a benefit to replacing them?

I just finished easily popping all 3 ball joints on both sides with this puppy, bought it after watching the SMA video on it. https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pnemat...87937528&sr=8-5

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As Nero Danced
Sep 3, 2009

Alright, let's do this
I'm currently deliberating this, wanted someone else's opinion.

https://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/d/swannanoa-2000-mazda-miata-mx5/7114466783.html

My problems with it are the front bumper gap to the hood seems a bit larger than it should (didn't wiggle or move under hand pressure, but I don't know if it's sagging or if I'm just not familiar with it), the shifter feels wobbly (from what I've read it's worn out bushings, shouldn't be too hard to fix but still, first impression wasn't very favorable) and the stereo doesn't work. The top seems secure at speed, no tears and he said no leaks, the interior is worn, but not excessively so for its age. Yes I know automatic is usually the wrong way to go with miatas, but bum knee so manual isn't really that viable.

Is there anything else I need to check, or bargain over? I'm leaning towards walking away from it and waiting for one in better condition.

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