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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, I'd bet that diagram I posted is accurate enough then, with each of those pin pairs (1/6, 2/7, 4/9, 5/10) feeding a speaker. Theoretically you should be able to put a multimeter across each of those pin pairs and get continuity, but not with any other pair. That was my exact thought. I pulled the trigger on the $40 replacement. Thanks.
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Apr 25, 2020 22:36
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I got your loving grounds right here https://youtu.be/r4FVnv8qd5A Reminds me of my first install.
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Apr 30, 2020 05:53
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
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Oh god. Suddenly I'm very proud of my 3/4 assed stereo install on basically the same mazda 6 he has. Except wagon in my case. All wires are tucked away from sight, run through factory conduits, etc. I don't have a sub though. 
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Apr 30, 2020 07:48
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So good. It is like the RedLetterMedia of car stereo installs
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Apr 30, 2020 17:52
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Can anyone suggest a good 12" subwoofer replacement? I currently have one of these in a ported fiberglass sub box: https://acd18d33-4461-49d0-9804-8fc4a14d22d2.filesusr.com/ugd/d53db0_1e2bbe1f7fd94f259851ed7b85037046.pdf This is my amp: https://tacotunes.com/shop/z-amps-processors/txd8005-plug-play-5-channel-amp-75-watts-speakers-350-watts-subwoofer/ Which I think is rated for 350w RMS. So I'm thinking it would be drop in to replace the current woofer (rated for 250RMS at 2 ohms) with something a little bigger. The enclosure's dimensions are: 40.5 × 26 × 14 in Would either of these be better choices? https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CVR124/Kicker-CompVR-43CVR124.html?tp=68897 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13612TW3/JL-Audio-12TW3-D4.html?tp=68897
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Apr 30, 2020 18:26
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I absolutely loved my JL 10TW3 right up until it was stolen. Went with a more secure under seat Rockford Fosgate dual 8 inch set up, but it isn't the same. Someone with a little more technical knowledge can speak up, but I can find Kicker stuff in Walmart, which puts a sour taste for the brand in my mouth.
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Apr 30, 2020 18:47
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So the stereo in my 2010 Jetta has now failed for the second time in four years (and it didn't have bluetooth support to begin with) so I'm thinking it's aftermarket time, but I have no idea about where to start looking for such things. Any general recommendations on buying stereo systems? It'll be working with my android phone, but based on my limited experience with rentals that had it, Android Auto is somewhat useless anyway, despite seeming useful? This is a dash unit only swap, not looking to touch the speaker system at all.
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May 22, 2020 02:32
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Yes, it's like a lava lamp.
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Crutchfield is the general go to. They have amazing customer support and worth buying from even if they aren't strictly the cheapest out there. Give them a call and they can go through the whole process. Here the advice seems to be split between getting a cheap eBay Android auto head unit and buying higher end. I'm guessing that because the mid range stuff is a horrible compromise of both.
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May 22, 2020 02:44
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PittTheElder posted:So the stereo in my 2010 Jetta has now failed for the second time in four years (and it didn't have bluetooth support to begin with) so I'm thinking it's aftermarket time, but I have no idea about where to start looking for such things. Any general recommendations on buying stereo systems? It'll be working with my android phone, but based on my limited experience with rentals that had it, Android Auto is somewhat useless anyway, despite seeming useful? Go to Crutchfield and punch in your car information would be where I would start. Android auto on Pioneer and Kenwood is better than I have seen on any offering from a vehicle manufacturer. Even though it could be much better, I enjoy having Android auto rather than not. If you can spring the extra money get a capacitive screen instead of a resistive touch screen. If you don't listen to CDs you can save some money by getting a head unit that is a digital receiver only.
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May 22, 2020 02:55
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Yeah ok, and should I be thinking of installing it myself? Or better to just pay somebody to do it for me? I am comfortable messing around with electronics general, but know next to nothing about automotive electronics. e: Oh, and in regards to satellite radio tuners; my car has a satellite radio antenna, is there generally a tuner colocated with it up there? Or would I have to buy one separately if I wanted it to work? Low priority thing of course, I haven't bothered to pay for it in years because there seems to be very little decent content on SiriusXM but I digress. PittTheElder fucked around with this message at 23:59 on May 22, 2020 |
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May 22, 2020 22:55
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For common cars, crutchfield will usually be able to sell you a cable harness and fascia kit that basically makes the whole experience plug and play, as long as you're comfortable using a screwdriver and maybe a 10mm socket. I would not recommend going DIY if you have to cut into the factory wiring because basically every inexperienced person who's done this as a PO of one of my cars has done a terrible job of it. Generally there's a YouTube guide showing you how to get the dash apart and remove the factory head unit.
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May 23, 2020 00:52
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Don Dongington posted:For common cars, crutchfield will usually be able to sell you a cable harness and fascia kit that basically makes the whole experience plug and play, as long as you're comfortable using a screwdriver and maybe a 10mm socket. I would not recommend going DIY if you have to cut into the factory wiring because basically every inexperienced person who's done this as a PO of one of my cars has done a terrible job of it. I just did exactly this:  Everything* works. Steering wheel controls even. My first time ever installing a stereo (I however have electrical and electronics experience). I did need to cut some wires for the steering wheel controls as I could not get the pins for that out of the connector. In addition to a philips screw driver and 10mm nut driver I would recommend a decent wire stripper and crimper, I improvised these and it was a bit of a pain. *Everything except the stuff I saved for later, that being speakers (need a custom mounting bracket), usb (need to either find where the oem connects and get an A-B or run the one from the headunit into the glove box), mic (I'll have better access when doing the speakers), fascia (included screws weren't long enough). Definitely watch some youtube videos specific to your car for everything you want to do. One of the easiest things to mess up can be removing trim to get at the stereo.
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May 28, 2020 05:26
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Hey everyone I'm back. Now its time to do the tweeters. This is what the factory Element tweeter looks like in the car (image stolen from Crutchfield. Thank you Crutchfield)  When you get the A pillar off however the truth reveals itself   You can see the tweeter I'm planning on using up top, a Seas H1396 and the size of the grill  One hole saw and some sanding later we get this:  From the back:  Test fit in the car. Nice thing is the tweeter now points more at me than the factory one did:  Now this part I'm proud of me. I had some spare speaker grill metal from my woofers I installed earlier. So I got a wheel race and bearing in the right size and used them as forming tools to press the speaker grill into shape to go in the hole left in my A pillar  Glued in  Wired up. Thats a 25 uf capacitor inline with the tweeter.  And here's what it looks like:   Now I haven't put the tweeter back in the car just yet. With the way the Honda's factory amp is wired a full range signal is being sent to the tweeter. The old factory tweeter had a capacitor as a crossover to prevent music with too much bass hitting the tweeter. I have a capacitor on my tweeter as well. However my capacitor serves a different purpose. Its a safe guard if I get an amp pop or any sort of full range signal sent to the tweet, it will block most of the damaging bass.Here's a video that goes over that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hscMuzfyxQ4 However the capacitor doesn't block signal up to the tweeter's crossover point. For my tweeter the math works out to: 0.159/(X *3.5) = 0.000025 which means I'm blocking frequencies from ~1817 Hz and lower. Here's a page that has the specs for my tweeter. This Seas tweeter has a frankly ridiculous recommended frequency range of 2500 - 30000 hz. Its the lower range that catches me by surprise. But to make sure I don't see too low of frequency to the tweeter and damage it I plan to switch my Pioneer headunit to active mode. That will allow the Pioneer to set crossover points for the tweeters, woofers, and subwoofer in the headunit. When I do that I'll probably set the high pass filter for the tweeter at 3500 hz or there abouts. But i need to do some more wiring before I can do that. So for the moment I'm down one tweeter while I work on that. But the tweeter is ready to go when I get it done. I have a small 4 channel amp ready to go. However I plan to install it where the factory amp is. When I do that my factory subwoofer will no longer be powered. I plan on getting the matching NVX micro class D amp as well but that will be some time down the road before it gets installed. In the meantime the plan will be to power the tweeters off the headunit and let the factory amp continue to power the front speakers in the doors. Coredump fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Jun 7, 2020 |
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Jun 7, 2020 00:33
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PittTheElder posted:e: Oh, and in regards to satellite radio tuners; my car has a satellite radio antenna, is there generally a tuner colocated with it up there? Or would I have to buy one separately if I wanted it to work? Low priority thing of course, I haven't bothered to pay for it in years because there seems to be very little decent content on SiriusXM but I digress. Late the the party, but... You need an add-on tuner, and the factory satellite antenna likely won't plug in. A streaming-only SiriusXM account is considerably cheaper these days (can get the first 3 months free, then threaten to cancel; they'll usually throw out a $30 for 6 months offer pretty quickly.. and they'll actually tell you to call back every 6 months to get the same deal), assuming you have unlimited data or you're on a plan that exempts music streaming from your data caps (such as an older T-Mobile plan). All SiriusXM cares about these days is subscriber count, even if they're almost giving it away. TBH the playlists on many of the stations are stale as hell, Howard Stern is really the only reason to get SiriusXM these days. And he's getting ready to retire anyway. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Jun 8, 2020 |
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Jun 8, 2020 05:45
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Is their audio quality any better than it used to be?
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Jun 8, 2020 05:50
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On the default "normal" audio quality it's pretty meh. There's also High and Maximum. Maximum sounds downright decent, High sounds.... a bit better than normal. I had occasional buffering issues on Maximum. I'm on a T-Mobile plan that has unlimited music/video streaming; normally they force the streaming provider to downgrade down to 128kbps audio, but they don't seem to do that with Sirius. Or didn't last year, anyway. And they don't offer those plans anymore; I'm clinging to this plan as long as I can. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Jun 8, 2020 |
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Jun 8, 2020 06:00
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STR posted:Late the the party, but... You need an add-on tuner, and the factory satellite antenna likely won't plug in. Yea the only reason I had it at all was for long Canadian highway drives, where things like radio and data connections generally don't exist. But I could never find much worth listening to, and then even worse they would run constant commercials for the station I was already listening to.  But yeah thanks for the heads up.
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Jun 8, 2020 06:24
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Back again. At this point my front door speakers and tweeters have been installed. Remember these: Here's another pic of the forming "tools" i used to get the tweeter grill shape:  Cut out a circle of speaker grill, put it between the bearing cage (minus bearings) and race and use a bench vise and some 2x4's and you can form the shape. I made pie cuts where the grill material began to bunch up. And here is a pic of the tweeter installed in the car:  My factory Honda amp outputs to front channel, rear channel, and sub. I've gone full active so my speakers are powered thusly; tweeters run off headunit power, front woofers run off the factory front channel of the amp, however that channel of the amp is plugged into the headunit's rear channel output, which becomes the woofer output in active mode. Subwoofer stays the same. Then tonight I got my pioneer home theater receiver microphone and with the help of a 80's style exercise headband, put the mic on my forehead and let the headunit do time alignment for each speaker, signal sweeps to set crossovers, then output test to set speaker sound level, and finally set the subwoofer phase. After the headunit got done I did some manual tweaks to the crossover point between my woofers and tweeters. But now the headunit knows where the speakers are physically located in my car relative to where I sit in the passenger seat and can now focus the sound on the driver's seat, the passenger's seat, or the midpoint in between. Its pretty neat to hear the sound bounce around going through the different time alignment presets once the speakers got measured. Powering the tweeters off the headunit's internal amp brings up a funny situation. Pretty much any headunit's built-in amp to power speakers will put out middling power, we're talking 12 watts continuous power if we're lucky. To put this in contrast the micro 4 channel amp I have ready to install claims roughly 50 watts continuous power (75 watts rms at 4 ohms at 14.4v if we're being specific). But even with the tweeters being powered off the headunit the auto eq set them to -6db for left tweet and -7db for the right tweet. And I have to agree them things were singing before the auto eq. But at this point all the speakers I plan on replacing for now are installed. Hooray!
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Jun 19, 2020 02:49
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I know at one point, Appradio was THE thing. How has it aged? Roommate gave me his 2015 Pioneer double DIN head unit, and it has Appradio support. I've heard of issues past Android 8 (my phone runs 10). Haven't bothered hooking the phone up to it yet. Not a big deal if it won't play nice, free is free. And I may wind up going back to my 2018 Kenwood in the end (aptX, dual USB on the back so a nice place to power my dashcam, HD Radio tuner). The touchscreen is nice, but I'm already missing having actual buttons (this does have volume buttons though). Specifically, it's the AVH-X4800BS. 
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Jun 21, 2020 07:04
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I found app radio to be a steaming turd that didn't work when I tried it. Granted I may need to give it another shot now that I have the ground wire handbrake bodge done.
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Jun 21, 2020 08:16
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Yeah I just spent half an hour just getting my phone to work with it, and it absolutely does not like QHD display phones. I can't type anything on the stereo when it's in appradio mode (it thinks I'm 1-2 letters away on the keyboard, depending how far away I am from the center of the screen). Only 2 navigation apps that still work with it, and I can't type on them (they both blank out the phone itself, so there's no inputting it on the phone to get around that limitation). It's also insanely laggy. Probably gonna go ahead and just use the rear USB port to power my dashcam and forget about Appradio. The head unit's screen is properly calibrated. I did find an upside. It doesn't do aptX, but it does do some kind of higher end codec instead of just SBC - my phone shows the HD Audio option for streaming when connected to it (probably AAC? if it was aptX I would get a "Powered by Qualcomm aptX" popup when it connected; not sure aptX even existed in 2015). Streaming sounds fine on it. Phone calls seem to sound better than they did on the Kenwood, though that was just a couple of test calls to my voicemail. Why the gently caress can't they standardize on either 2.5mm or 3.5mm for the loving microphone already?! I didn't feel like tearing the dash and pillar apart to run yet another new mic, so I just snipped the wire at both ends, tucked it away, and ran a new mic to the top of the steering column. At least it's wired properly, with a proper adapter harness, instead of this mess that I encountered removing it from roommate's old car:  Remembered to hook up the antenna amplifier this time too.  e: gently caress Sygic, loving thing is keeping GPS active - my phone battery has dropped 30% in the past hour when it can normally go 2-3 days with light usage. Just uninstalled everything related to Appradio. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:35 on Jun 21, 2020 |
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Jun 21, 2020 08:27
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I'm looking for a stereo upgrade for my 2005 Tacoma. Speakers are still factory (until they pack it in). I'd like to keep the steering wheel controls, BT for my phone (Galaxy S10), and a front USB key. I don't need satellite radio or even really CDs anymore. I don't really care if it's touchscreen or not, but if it is I see capacitive is better then resistive. From what I can see, Android Auto is essentially a fancy way to mirror your phone to an in-dash tablet, essentially? The last time I installed a stereo in a truck was really straightforward - module for the steering wheel controls, dash kit, and a wiring harness. I'd like to go that route again. Any recommendations of brands to look for, or avoid?
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Jul 30, 2020 05:30
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Captain McAllister posted:I'm looking for a stereo upgrade for my 2005 Tacoma. Pioneer, Alpine, and Kenwood are usually the go-to brands. They do make digital receivers that do not have CD drives, and they are usually cheaper. I would go to Crutchfield to top in your vehicles information and filter from there. You can narrow down your choices from there. There is even the ability to filter by digital receivers, and capacitive or resistive touchscreen.
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Jul 30, 2020 06:50
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I got a Pioneer a couple of years ago with similar requirements to yours. Note that you can use resistive touchscreens with winter gloves, if that's part of your climate. Mine doesn't have a front USB port so I have a mostly-hidden USB extension cord coming through the console trim.
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Jul 30, 2020 17:38
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Random sidenote: if you have a dashcam, most head units put out enough power to power them from a rear USB port (and a ton of them have at least 1 rear port now). Lets you ditch the power socket supply and cables disappearing into the dash/headliner/etc. Really makes a dashcam install neater if you haven't already picked up a hardwire kit. My HU only has 1 USB port, so I kept it fairly accessible (I can get to the dashcam cable + USB extension cable by popping the ashtray out) in case I need to do a firmware update or, for some weird reason, actually plug a storage device into the stereo.
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Jul 30, 2020 17:52
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I don't have a camera to plug in but I do use Carplay. Android Auto and Carplay need USB unless you're spending $600+ on a head unit that can do the wireless version.
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Jul 30, 2020 18:05
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Captain McAllister posted:I'm looking for a stereo upgrade for my 2005 Tacoma. Android Auto is a little more nuanced; only apps that work with it will show up, but your general description that it mirrors your screen up on the screen in the dash is mostly correct. In the VW it waffles back and forth on whether the knob on the right zooms GMaps in and out or tabs between the fields on the screen at the time, depending on which update I got last. Haven't really used most apps other than Audible, Spotify and GMaps.
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Jul 30, 2020 19:32
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Uncle Lizard posted:Pioneer, Alpine, and Kenwood are usually the go-to brands. They do make digital receivers that do not have CD drives, and they are usually cheaper. I would go to Crutchfield to top in your vehicles information and filter from there. You can narrow down your choices from there. There is even the ability to filter by digital receivers, and capacitive or resistive touchscreen. I am very happy with the Alpine iLX-W650 I put in our '03 Outback, assuming you have double-DIN. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500IL...bBoCBKoQAvD_BwE It's mech-less, can be paired with a 4-channel amp that mounts to its rear, and is CarPlay/Android Auto. It also has an input for a rear-view camera, with a trigger wire. The only thing it does not have is the front USB for you. It's on the rear, but does come with a cable to extend it out. You could even get a panel jack. I preferred that - I don't like things sticking out of the face of my stereo, particularly.
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Jul 30, 2020 19:52
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Audi A4 B6 Alpine stereo, pretty sure it's a CDE-112Ri I hooked this up many years ago with a buddy and we couldn't get it to power on unless it got 12V from somewhere else to let it know to turn on, because unlike the stock one it wasn't activated by canbus We got this to work fine for many years by sticking a wire into a fuse in the dash that came on with the key being put in the ignition, and forgot it all. Come to today, where I'm hunting a parasitic draw and decide to tidy it up with a proper fuse tap while I'm there- the stereo now refuses to turn on, despite getting 12V from the same drat fuse as before. The fused circuit originally tapped (window washer pump) works fine. I tried giving it power from another fuse, no luck I tried giving it 12V from a battery, no luck What next?
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Aug 5, 2020 16:20
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DesperateDan posted:Audi A4 B6 See if you can pull the radio from the dash. It should have a 10 amp mini fuse by the plug for wiring harness.
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Aug 5, 2020 19:01
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Coredump posted:See if you can pull the radio from the dash. It should have a 10 amp mini fuse by the plug for wiring harness. Thanks- will try and pull it out and test/replace
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Aug 6, 2020 08:01
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DesperateDan posted:Thanks- will try and pull it out and test/replace No problem. Might need release tools or a butter knifes in each side.
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Aug 6, 2020 08:49
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Coredump posted:No problem. Might need release tools or a butter knifes in each side. Some locking pliers and a bit of wiggling did the job a lot easier than I feared given the internal frame was put in the car using self tappers, swearing and woodscrews  The fuse continuity tested fine both from the top and on the legs but was for whatever reason pretty dirty (the rest of the stereo was factory clean) so I hosed out the socket with contact cleaner and popped in a new fuse and  Works like new, thanks!
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Aug 8, 2020 15:45
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I love a happy ending. 
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Aug 9, 2020 03:56
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I had this wild idea that I was gonna try pulling a head unit out of a '16 Civic with AA to try in my 15 and see if it would fit but they are more different than I had thought. Is there any such thing as an aftermarket unit that will work with my side and rear cameras and steering controls and such?
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Aug 27, 2020 11:50
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Quick question: do makes change the way their single (or double) DIN units fit regularly? I have a probably 15-year-old Alpine head unit in my car in the U.S. (CD and ability to plug in iPods with the old 30-pin connection, the install shop ran the wire to my glove box). I think we ordered that from Crutchfield and got the adapter, but if I ever want to upgrade (front USB alone would be nice) I was wondering if a newer Alpine would fit in the same adapter.
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Aug 27, 2020 12:26
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codo27 posted:I had this wild idea that I was gonna try pulling a head unit out of a '16 Civic with AA to try in my 15 and see if it would fit but they are more different than I had thought. Is there any such thing as an aftermarket unit that will work with my side and rear cameras and steering controls and such? I’m sure the connectors are different, but this company makes an add on to the factory stereo so you keep climate, cameras, etc. I have one in my Lexus. https://gromaudio.com/store/all-hon3.html
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Aug 28, 2020 20:18
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My Subaru HK amp has preset crossovers, and I replaced the door woofers with coaxial speakers and of course the built in tweeters on the coax speakers don't do poo poo. I don't want to run wires or anything, but since I can put the coax speakers in the rear, I figure I can find some woofers to replace the fronts. Being that the HK system is 2 ohm, it's complicating things. I'm using woofer to mean a component speaker. Dumb questions:
Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 08:10 on Aug 29, 2020 |
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Aug 29, 2020 08:05
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savesthedayrocks posted:I’m sure the connectors are different, but this company makes an add on to the factory stereo so you keep climate, cameras, etc. I have one in my Lexus. Yeah looks like they don't make it for the civ. Also looks like it would have spoiled $1000 CAD ffs. I fuckin hate putting money into vehicles
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Aug 29, 2020 15:26
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Alright, So I can't get good sounding vocals at all in my 93 RX7. I bought a pair two way speakers, don't remember what they were, but they are "good ones." My doors are dynamatted, sealed as best as I could, but that range of around 200hz or so is just... so gross and I've tried EQing it, which is never the best way to do it. I only have door speakers (its a tiny two door car), and one 10" JL that is more than enough for the size of the car. Should I go with a 3 way setup? What's recommended? Every time I get in my Kia optima with the Infinity setup its just light years ahead in audio quality. It even kicks the poo poo out of my XC60 volvo's "premium" sound. A god drat Kia is taking names in the audio department. EDIT: where can I get a two single din bezel? The RX7 stock units are two separate single dins, which ends up being a taller hole than a standard "double din." My double din head unit needs proper spacing in a two single din spot. If that makes sense. Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Aug 29, 2020 |
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Aug 29, 2020 23:52
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