|
oXDemosthenesXo posted:I'm finally circling back to my utility sink project if anyone remembers. Just cut it. You won’t be able to torch that hot enough to melt the solder with water inside. https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-0-62...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2020 23:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 18, 2024 14:53 |
|
|
eddiewalker posted:Just cut it. You won’t be able to torch that hot enough to melt the solder with water inside. Good point about the water. I have one of those cutters already so I'm good to go. Should I plan on recapping it after, or just leaving it open?
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2020 23:56
|
|
|
My garbage disposal is leaking through the motor housing, rather than any of the plumbing fittings. I’m guessing a seal on the drive shaft is failing or something. Probably 14 years old. User serviceable, or no point, just replace?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2020 16:14
|
|
|
If you can get the same model so you don't have to redo any of the waste pipe, then I would just replace it. It's $100-$200 for a new disposal, and swapping one out can be done in under an hour if you don't have to change any piping. Can't even imagine the time to try and dismantle and reassemble your disposal to replace a seal, which may not even be the issue.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2020 16:46
|
|
|
Yeah, I'm not at all afraid of swapping units, but if I can fix it for $5 instead of $200, cool cool. I was sort of assuming it'd be a replacement gig, just thought I should sanity check it. The bolts holding the motor housing on look to be a specialty bit anyhow, so that was my first indication as to the manufacturer's intent. I assume it gets worse from there. So I guess I'm off to consumer reports.  e: Lookin' at the GE GFC1020N, our maybe the Moen EX75C, they rate better in every way than the Badger 5 that was in there and I love an upgrade e again: Looks like I'm going with the Moen EX75C Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Apr 28, 2020 |
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2020 16:49
|
|
|
Well that was a super easy swap but holy poo poo I'm taking that Moen back to Home Depot, it's stupidly loud. Not in a broken way, just naturally loud, and it's a lower pitch so it carries through the whole drat house.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 01:26
|
|
|
how do we feel about rockwool / mineral wool insulation? I think that is what I decided on doing the crawlspace with since it is vented and the mineral wool doesn't pick up moisture like fiberglass
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 02:40
|
|
|
It's not as itchy either, which is a plus when installing.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 04:08
|
|
|
shortspecialbus posted:Replacing the gasket is probably quick enough that I'll chance one from amazon and hope it helps. If that isn't enough, yeah, I'm done with this stupid loving toilet. I already had the whole tank off about 3 years ago to replace the entire innards and then it was fine for 3 years until it wasn't, and while it's hard to tell for certain, it really seems like the gasket is getting unseated somehow. Since I imagine everyone is very invested in my toilet, this seems to have done the trick I think. I expected the gasket to be conical like the old one, so I was worried I got the wrong thing, but no the old one was just worn and deformed and that's why it was not seating properly anymore. The new one seems to work a charm.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 15:14
|
|
|
Rockwool has a much higher melting point. When I worked insulation in college we used to put it around recessed lighting. It will gently caress your hands up something fierce though. And wear a mask. One time I was insulting a can on a job site and got distracted talking to someone. I wasn't wearing a mask because it was 107 degrees outside. A half inch by half inch piece of rockwool drifted down from the can just as I was taking a breath and turning back to my work. I sucked it right down into my throat. I have asthma and had the worst coughing fit which caused me to fall off the ladder onto the floor. I continued coughing until I had to lean out a window opening to throw up. It really sucked.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 16:57
|
|
|
Therrrrrrre we go
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 17:56
|
|
|
Hang that air switch on the cabinet and make a proper drip loop ya filthy animal!
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 18:20
|
|
|
You mean the box in the back on the floor of the cab? Yeah. That's actually just a junction to wire in the dishwasher. But yeah, it needs to be attached to the wall anyhow, it'll happen.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 18:30
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Hang that air switch on the cabinet and make a proper drip loop ya filthy animal! Ya happy now, boss? 
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 20:27
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Therrrrrrre we go Make an air gap. Just loop the dishwasher drain hose and use a zip tie.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 20:48
|
|
|
The loop's there, was in the first pic, too. You can just see it snaking up to above-sink-height in the back if you look closely. e: Oh poo poo, maybe I grabbed the wrong hose while I was in there, lol. Haha, yup, I grabbed the supply hose, whoopsy Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Apr 29, 2020 |
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 20:55
|
|
|
There, grabbed the right hose this time, and tucked the supply hose up too just to keep things tidy.  And I spun the thing so the trap turns to the other side, just keeps the plumping tucked back that much more. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Apr 29, 2020 |
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 21:14
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Ya happy now, boss? Thank you for your service. Bad Munki posted:There, grabbed the right hose this time, and tucked the supply hose up too just to keep things tidy. So you've got a Bosch dishwasher I see.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 21:56
|
|
|
Motronic posted:So you've got a Bosch dishwasher I see. 800 series, I ain't fuckin' around. And now I have a skookum disposal to match. I don't remember if it was this thread or another that turned me on to the Bosch dishwashers. Might have been the tool thread somehow? Anyhow, best appliance purchase ever, and the one time a dude is legit able to get his wife an appliance for Christmas without being an rear end in a top hat. That was a couple years ago and she's still jazzed, I hear about it at least monthly. It's so good
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 22:02
|
|
|
Yeah, they really are. I recognized the packing material/high loop attachment you had in the cabinet. I recently replaced my old dishwasher that smelled like it was on fire one morning with a Bosch Benchmark. Not because it's so much different from the 800 series, but because I really wanted that time countdown projected on the floor. I feel like it's entirely fair to judge me for this.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 22:14
|
|
|
That’s worth at least a couple hundo right there for sure
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 22:27
|
|
|
Is the 800 worth the price increase over the 500? The kid at the store said the only difference was noise level but he didn't seem to know a lot so I'm not sure if he was leading me astray. We're planning a kitchen and bath remodel and have never had an under cabinet dishwasher. Also looking for fridge recommendations. Ice maker and water not required.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2020 23:07
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Yeah, they really are. I recognized the packing material/high loop attachment you had in the cabinet. I recently replaced my old dishwasher that smelled like it was on fire one morning with a Bosch Benchmark. Not because it's so much different from the 800 series, but because I really wanted that time countdown projected on the floor. I uh... now need to replace my perfectly working dishwasher so I can have this.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2020 02:03
|
|
|
Just so you other Bosch-havers know, here’s a little pro tip for ya: if you ever see error code 24, it means you forgot to knock out the dishwasher drain plug in your new garbage disposal
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2020 02:30
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Just so you other Bosch-havers know, here’s a little pro tip for ya: if you ever see error code 24, it means you forgot to knock out the dishwasher drain plug in your new garbage disposal Or so you've heard, right?
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2020 04:18
|
|
|
I just imagine that'd be a likely cause, if one were in such a situation. Obviously, reading the disposal install directions and not skipping step 15 would alleviate this potential issue, but not everyone is as mindful as myself.therobit posted:Is the 800 worth the price increase over the 500? The kid at the store said the only difference was noise level but he didn't seem to know a lot so I'm not sure if he was leading me astray. We're planning a kitchen and bath remodel and have never had an under cabinet dishwasher. I think just go to the Bosch website and have a look yourself, don't rely on what's on display at Lowe's and/or what they're telling you there, as they're more focused on selling what they have in stock or at least normally carry. I believe if you go to the Bosch website, you can pretty much build your own specs and you just end up with a model number that is based on what you want in a washer, so that'll make it clearer what the differences are. For me, noise was one of the major deciding factors. As for fridges, I have a Samsung, super happy with it. Used to have dual full size units (like a full size single-door fridge next to a full size single-door freezer) and I don't miss them at all. The Samsung we picked is a full depth one, so it has plenty of space, and we went with a drawer freezer on the bottom and French doors on the top (no separator, so it opens up nice and wide.) No door dispenser, which normally takes up a ton of space in the unit. I guess my only annoyance is that it seems like with the fridge doors shut, I don't have as much view into the freezer drawer as I'd like? It's not really a problem, though, and my wife doesn't experience this sensation so maybe it's just me.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2020 15:57
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:I think just go to the Bosch website and have a look yourself, don't rely on what's on display at Lowe's and/or what they're telling you there, as they're more focused on selling what they have in stock or at least normally carry. I believe if you go to the Bosch website, you can pretty much build your own specs and you just end up with a model number that is based on what you want in a washer, so that'll make it clearer what the differences are. Agree with all of this. The Bosch site is quite nice for comparisons between models. Besides the nifty floor display, the other things on the benchmark series that may be of interest to you came from Thermador (which are MUCH more expensive): a box of some minerals (marketing blah blah) that basically just holds heat from the high temp rinse cycle. Between that and the tub being hot it dries REALLY well. The other thing that I don't think you can get on the 800 is a water softener. While I have a whole house water softener, I don't keep it turned to "soap never feels like it comes off of my skin" levels, just "white crap isn't immediately on the bottom of any sink I've run water and not towel dried", which isn't enough to keep glasses from spotting in a dishwasher. The extra softener does the trick quite nicely. Bad Munki posted:As for fridges, I have a Samsung, super happy with it. Used to have dual full size units (like a full size single-door fridge next to a full size single-door freezer) and I don't miss them at all. The Samsung we picked is a full depth one, so it has plenty of space, and we went with a drawer freezer on the bottom and French doors on the top (no separator, so it opens up nice and wide.) No door dispenser, which normally takes up a ton of space in the unit. I guess my only annoyance is that it seems like with the fridge doors shut, I don't have as much view into the freezer drawer as I'd like? It's not really a problem, though, and my wife doesn't experience this sensation so maybe it's just me. We have amazingly similar taste in appliances. Mine is an LG but basically the same layout/feature set which is what mattered to me. It replaced a side by side that fit in the same physical space, but somehow only held half as much, and made everything difficult to get at unless it was right up front.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2020 16:18
|
|
|
It may be optional in the 800, but mine has the softener for sure. Feeding the thing a rinse agent also does wonders for drying and spots.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2020 16:21
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:It may be optional in the 800, but mine has the softener for sure. Yeah, I always use rinse agent, but that doesn't necessarily do it with my particular water hardness. So it's definitely an "it depends" whether something like that is gonna be worth it or not to someone. One thing that should be pointed out about all of these new dishwashers, while they're great in most every way there is one way in which they are not: time. Energy and water efficiency standards have gimped them so forget about ripping through a load of nasty unrinsed plates and pots in an hour like you can do in a noisy old GE/whirlpool/whatever. They extended the cycle times to make up for it. You're looking at over 2 hours now. I find it a completely acceptable trade off as a well and septic haver.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2020 16:27
|
|
|
TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:Okay! I managed to figure out how this works and can adjust it. Any advice on next steps? Mail is still being returned to sender. Gosh darn it.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2020 04:40
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Yeah, I always use rinse agent, but that doesn't necessarily do it with my particular water hardness. So it's definitely an "it depends" whether something like that is gonna be worth it or not to someone. Yeah, I don't have much of a choice about it unless I buy something grey market though. My old 90s rollaway requires that I remove every trace of food from the dishes prior to washing them or they won't get clean, so that probably make sup for 15-30 minutes at least.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2020 05:09
|
|
|
At one point, the detached garage of my house has a Pittsburgh toilet (just a... free standing shitter with no door or walls perched in a corner) When I bought it, it had long since been removed, though the drain and flange are still there, just plugged. As I turn this garage into a workshop, it strikes me that having a utility sink would be great, and my garage has plumbing and a drain. The actual series of connections that I'd want to make to connect the ~1.5" drain from the sink to the 3" toilet drain and setting up a trap etc isn't really obvious to me, though, and trying to google what I'm trying to do is just a lot of people trying to tie a bathroom sink into a toilet line behind walls etc What's the correct way to do this / is this a thing that I can logistically do without having to tear up concrete?
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2020 07:04
|
|
|
It's hard to know for sure without a photo showing what you have to work with. We'll begin by assuming that the plugged line runs to a sanitary line and not out into the ground, etc. If there's a vent line somewhere near for that toilet, I'd leave the floor capped & tie your sink drainage into to vent line. If there is no vent: Then we need to know what kind of flange set-up is there - is it a metal ring set into the concrete, or a flange set into the pipe in the floor? If you can remove the closet flange (the ring that holds the bolts for the toilet) from the pipe, then it is a straightforward matter of fitting a new piece of pipe in where the flange was, than reducing it to whatever size you want for the sink drain. Even if it's an old steel ring set-up, then you have to take measurements of the available opening to tie into and fabricate a connection. In such case I'd consider adding some kind of support to your new floor stub pipe because just jamming it into the hole & sealing it with silicone won't be particularly structurally stable. If there is no vent, you should add one when plumbing for your sink.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2020 16:15
|
|
|
I'm roughing in a tub, and I ran across what may be a potential issue:  It looks like I may have 3 potential solutions: 1 - Buy a "shallow" drain, which will probably impact drain flow (I think they had this in before) 2 - Drill through the subfloor and connect it directly below the subfloor 3 - Cut a notch in the subfloor long enough to put the drain there. 4 - Nothing/Something entirely differently. I'm kind of shooting for 2, but I want to make sure there isn't a better option.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2020 16:17
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:It's hard to know for sure without a photo showing what you have to work with. Here's what I'm working with  I can't see any obvious vents- there's no obvious vertical pipes poking up from my garage other than the exhaust from the heater, and the rainspouts
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2020 00:53
|
|
|
Well You could try the 100% unicorn long-shot and see if that is a screwed-in closet flange. Highly unlikely, but give it a left-loosy & see if it spins. If you win the lottery, then you can just screw a 4" PVC union into it Bonus crappy glue job if it simply pops free...then you can just glue a 4" PVC coupler in. If not - and you want to keep the toilet option for the future/next guy - I have a suggestion that's not in the code book and which might give a few posters here the hives: - Get another closet flange & the cheapest wax ring (or a silicone toilet seal, if you wanna get fancy) - Flip the new flange upside-down, put the wax between the two faces; install a new set of bolts, and tighten that fucker down. - Clean off excess wax - Declare victory as you glue your new sink drain line into the upturned stub. (yes, yes; you're gluing an outie onto an innie against traffic. Holy poo poo. OK, then: just get a coupler) I mean, after all, this is a sink, and unless you plan on dual duty as a post-6-beer urinal, you're going to be running cat 2 / gray water (at worst) down it, and the traffic demands on it won't be that high. (edit) you could even begin the step-down process by (mis)using a 3" closet flange. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:41 on May 3, 2020 |
|
#
?
May 3, 2020 04:33
|
|
|
Anyone have a good way to find/search for poo poo like this. It's 3/4" female to 3/8" barb 90 degree elbow (I think). I've searched lowes and HD and Amazon and google and one of these may bear fruit but none of them did very rapidly and I wondered if I'm just using the wrong search terms, I've been trying stuff along the lines of "3/4" female 3/8" barb elbow" It's for a cheap rear end shower panel to screw onto the pipe coming out of the wall and feed into the hose that goes to the 4 way valve. 
bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 20:32 on May 3, 2020 |
|
#
?
May 3, 2020 20:30
|
|
|
That's an oddball part. I can only find it in straight: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-in-FHT-x-3-8-in-Lead-Free-Brass-Garden-Hose-Barb-Adapter-Fitting-801629/300096741 Search terms: 3/4 FGH 3/8" Barb elbow Either throw on a 3/8 Barb to Barb elbow, or maybe this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/381800508363
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2020 02:47
|
|
|
Thanks, yeah it doesn't seem like it's readily available as is but two parts combined should work.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2020 15:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 18, 2024 14:53 |
|
|
I have an original-to-house 1962 Price Pfister set of bathtub handles/valves with a shower diverter in the middle that has a leak. Doesn’t matter if the diverter is engaged or not, if water’s running, there’s a leak from the diverter knob. I can remove the screw but the knob doesn’t want to seem to budge. I’m hoping to pull the diverter stem/cartridge/whatever it’s called to find a part number. I’m trying to do this without marring the vintage tile. Any suggestions?
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2020 00:27
|
|
