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I just set up the system I got song receiver and klipsh reference 5.1 speakers. I like it so far. Wife is complaining. Specifically, we’re watching Schitt’s Creek and have the volume set at a reasonable level. Then the credits come on and the TUBA COMES IN BOOM BOOM BOOM Is there a leveler somewhere? Or is there some other feature to look for? The receiver is a Sony STR-DN1080
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# ? Apr 30, 2020 04:11 |
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# ? Apr 23, 2024 14:02 |
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I couldn't tell you honestly, but... Are compressors/limiters a thing for surround sound receivers?
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# ? Apr 30, 2020 05:34 |
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It's usually called "night mode" or something similar. Edit: https://helpguide.sony.net/ha/strdn108/v1/en/contents/TP0001221278.html KillHour fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Apr 30, 2020 |
# ? Apr 30, 2020 05:36 |
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Have you run calibration? Nothing wrong with adjusting sub down below reference, too.
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# ? Apr 30, 2020 07:34 |
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PRADA SLUT posted:I'm looking for a 3.1 in a soundbar setup to plug straight into an LG OLED. I don't want any external hardware other than the bar and the sub (no receiver), and the sub needs to be wireless. I don't want to dick around with input switching (ie, I'd like a system that just outputs whatever the TV is playing) if possible. I have a Switch and an AppleTV hooked up to the TV. The B&O one definitely looks good https://www.bang-olufsen.com/en/speakers/beosound-stage https://www.whathifi.com/reviews/bang-and-olufsen-beosound-stage
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# ? Apr 30, 2020 22:05 |
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KillHour posted:If I was going to put together a 3.1 system for $1500, I'd consider something like this: Since there seems to be some discussion here, here's my current system: LG E9 OLED lovely Harmon/Kardon 1080p receiver 2 x Homebuilt 2-way speakers that I built for roughly $500-600 in 2005 (these aren't bad tbqh). I was thinking of upgrading, and to start, I was thinking it makes the most sense to add a subwoofer and upgrade the receiver. Our viewing area isn't huge: maybe 15 x 15 feet, but it's part of our attic upstairs which is larger. I want to buy a subwoofer that I'd be happy with for years. If my budget for the receiver/sub is 1200ish, would it make sense to get something like the SB-1000? Looks like SVS also has PB-2000s for $700. Would that be a worthwhile upgrade if I'm just looking to get something and forget about it for the next 10 years? Edit: I guess Hsu makes decent subwoofers too? Residency Evil fucked around with this message at 14:58 on May 2, 2020 |
# ? May 2, 2020 12:10 |
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If I connect my fire stick to the receiver and I need to use one of the inputs on the receiver , can I use the firestick to control that (or get to that input?) I have a tv with 2 hdmi 1 center with 2 extra hdmi 1 fire stick I’m assuming I should connect center to tv and firestick to center? I’m trying to make it so I just use one remote (preferably fire stick) The extra input I need to control is security cams
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# ? May 2, 2020 16:55 |
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HDMI cec is what does all of that and it's always a crapshoot imo. I can't picture what button on a fire stick would possibly tell the receiver toncycle through HDMI inputs so I'm leaning towards no.
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# ? May 2, 2020 17:20 |
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Residency Evil posted:I want to buy a subwoofer that I'd be happy with for years. If my budget for the receiver/sub is 1200ish, would it make sense to get something like the SB-1000? Looks like SVS also has PB-2000s for $700. Would that be a worthwhile upgrade if I'm just looking to get something and forget about it for the next 10 years? Love my PB12 (the older version of the -2000) and I can't imagine needing to upgrade it. Feels like it has more power than I'll ever need. If I had it to do over again I might be tempted by dual 1000s, though.
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# ? May 2, 2020 17:51 |
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KS posted:Love my PB12 (the older version of the -2000) and I can't imagine needing to upgrade it. Feels like it has more power than I'll ever need. If I had it to do over again I might be tempted by dual 1000s, though. Thanks. I guess I could also get a single 1000 and then add one down the road if I feel the need to upgrade. Would the 1000 be too small for my room? We have our home theater in the attic, which is about 15 feet wide, 30 feet long or so, but the actual viewing space is about half of that (since we're viewing along the short end). edit: although it sounds like for home theater use, a ported subwoofer may be better? Residency Evil fucked around with this message at 20:55 on May 2, 2020 |
# ? May 2, 2020 20:38 |
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A ported sub seems like a good fit given the bigger room (less room gain). The $100 off pricing on the PB-2000 is a deal in my book. Didn't know that was going on. Just have to be sure you're ready for 66 lbs of subwoofer.
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# ? May 3, 2020 01:49 |
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KS posted:A ported sub seems like a good fit given the bigger room (less room gain). The $100 off pricing on the PB-2000 is a deal in my book. Didn't know that was going on. Just have to be sure you're ready for 66 lbs of subwoofer. Thanks. Any reason to get the PB-2000 versus the HSU VT2-mk5 or VTF-3 MK5 HP?
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# ? May 3, 2020 02:11 |
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Residency Evil posted:Thanks. Any reason to get the PB-2000 versus the HSU VT2-mk5 or VTF-3 MK5 HP? I guess no strong opinions?
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# ? May 5, 2020 20:47 |
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No experience with any of them
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# ? May 5, 2020 20:57 |
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Just get an SB-16 Ultra and be done with it. Oh poo poo I didn't realize that SVS still had the cylinder subs! You can get Dual PC-2000's for like $1800 Or a PC-4000 for $1700 https://www.svsound.com/products/pc-4000
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# ? May 5, 2020 21:49 |
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Residency Evil posted:Thanks. Any reason to get the PB-2000 versus the HSU VT2-mk5 or VTF-3 MK5 HP?
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# ? May 6, 2020 00:25 |
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I'd say you can't go wrong with either Hsu or SVS. I had a VTF that the amp took a poo poo after about 8 years but I wouldn't hold that against them. I was going to recommend SVS factory outlet for their blem sales because I got my PB13 Ultras for $600 off each and you'd never know they were blems unless I told you, but I just looked at what they're currently selling and there's stuff that seems a lot more hosed up and they're only giving $200 off, so maybe the decided they were discounting stuff too much.
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# ? May 6, 2020 02:26 |
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I bought a Yamaha 5.1 system. Connected the speakers and plugged the bluray, firestick and camera respectively. If I play the Blu-ray it works , but once I switch inputs to firestick then back to blu, the bluray player flicks on and off every few seconds. This also happens with the camera doing the off and on . If I start with cam it works fine but once I switch input, and back again, it blinks. What I end up doing is unplugging the tv connect to the receiver to get it going again. Any ideas what I’m doing wrong or what I set up wrong?
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# ? May 6, 2020 20:51 |
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Sounds CEC related, see if you can find the "control device through HDMI" setting and turn it off.
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# ? May 6, 2020 22:43 |
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brand engager posted:Sounds CEC related, see if you can find the "control device through HDMI" setting and turn it off. Which device should i turn it off at, the tv itself or the bluray player? One other thing I just noticed. If i have the receiver off, i can still switch inputs and they all work and switch fine. Also, I noticed that when i move from bluray to tv, the tv gives a message that it's adjusting for UHD (my bluray is also UHD so i dunno). Thanks.
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# ? May 6, 2020 23:17 |
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I'd like a pair of 2.0 speakers for listening to Spotify on my desk - I don't have any higher quality sources. They need to be pretty small as I don't have much room next to my monitor so they might need to go under or behind it - ideally no more than 10" high. Most of the music I listen to isn't massively bass heavy so I don't think I need a subwoofer. I listen to a lot of shoegaze, singer songwriter, dreampop etc, although it wouldn't hurt if it could output some nice bass for when I put on Glowing by Pete Rock... I don't have a DAC so I'm looking for powered speakers, I guess. I could fit an amp elsewhere on the desk so long as the speakers themselves are small, but my budget probably doesn't stretch to buying speakers and an amp. My budget is £350 (probably about $430 these days). So far I've identified the Ruark mr1 mk2s, Audioengine a2s, or the Stelje ns3s as possible powered speaker options. Any advice appreciated so I can cease the endless scrolling of hyperbolic Amazon and Reddit reviews... Chas McGill fucked around with this message at 01:17 on May 7, 2020 |
# ? May 7, 2020 01:12 |
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Buy cheap, buy twice is my mantra when it comes to equipment that should last a while/get used a lot. I make exceptions for cheap but good stuff, like the DAC (first hit on ebay) I use for my PC setup. Not sure if I read about it ITT or somewhere else, but whoever was raving about the sound quality wasn't lying.
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# ? May 7, 2020 21:37 |
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Honestly I've never had a situation where I've thought, "I'm so glad I saved $$ in this one." I constantly think I will, but every time I'm meet with the failures of my own cheapness.
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# ? May 7, 2020 21:49 |
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Currently have one set of Pioneer SP-BS22-LR bookshelf speakers connected to my receiver that I use for movies, games, and listening to records. They sound fine and I never play at super high volume BUT I have them on some old 31" tall speaker stands my dad had and they are just too tall. They cover the bottom corners of the tv if you aren't mostly in front of it. Anyone have some recommendations for something discrete to set the on? No room on the tv stand, and it's kinda wedged in a corner so it's a little cramped. the tv stand is about 29" of the ground so something between like 18" and 24" would probably be perfect. I looked up the big floorstanding speakers from that same collection and they'd be a perfect fit but I don't want to upgrade to those before I have a way to wire up my current bookshelf guys for some kind of surround solution, and I'd rather start somewhere that process somewhere else. Speaking of, I know I've asked in here before but I finally am going to get a sub, what's the cheapest generally recommended option?
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# ? May 7, 2020 21:55 |
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Wasabi the J posted:Honestly I've never had a situation where I've thought, "I'm so glad I saved $$ in this one." Always happy to make good deals on used, good equipment, but other than that - yeah.
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# ? May 7, 2020 23:31 |
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I recently got a center speaker because why not, they're good to have. I had to disable my TV's internal speakers for it to pass AC-3, etc. properly and holy poo poo. Not only was the TV folding everything down to two channel PCM, it was doing a stunningly poor job of it. I don't know what processing it was running but it seems like it was blending L and R to the point of being near mono because now even stereo material has a lot more separation. So uh...something to consider if you're passing audio through your TV. (mine is an LG B8, if anyone was wondering).
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# ? May 9, 2020 03:52 |
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By 'passing audio through' the TV, what exactly do you mean here? What setup did you have previously that you've added a centre to?
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# ? May 9, 2020 13:56 |
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In this specific case it's the Plex app in the TV out via optical to a surround receiver that I had been using as stereo only for the longest time
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# ? May 9, 2020 20:14 |
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Ah so you had L/R previously and have just added a centre. And the TV was doing some shithouse mixdown to the signal... Seems weird. I wasn't even aware you could change the optical output format on some TVs considering they usually only output 2.0
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# ? May 9, 2020 21:35 |
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I assume it varies from TV to TV, and who knows what it goes through. The TV actually has shockingly decent audio including Atmos processing. I had left it as internal speakers + optical out but that locks the optical to strictly 2.0 LPCM. As soon as I turned off the speakers it just passes whatever it is out the optical, and for whatever reason even stereo material was way better separated.
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# ? May 10, 2020 04:17 |
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I have no idea what went on there then but it's certainly quirky. All the more reason to never run audio through a TV at all.
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# ? May 10, 2020 15:28 |
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Do any receivers have low latency modes?
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# ? May 10, 2020 15:55 |
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Aren't all no latency as they're generally a switcher without doing video processing? Some may have OSD that could perhaps add some, but turning OSD off may disable it. Usually they also have an audio delay option too to sync up if necessary.
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# ? May 10, 2020 15:58 |
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They usually have modes that don't do any audio processing, like 'pure mode' on my denon
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# ? May 10, 2020 16:32 |
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Depends, there are a lot of receivers that have video processors. Or at lease there were in the analog video days, maybe it's not such a thing now
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# ? May 10, 2020 20:36 |
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I'm looking for an alternative to a Bose Wave for my private home office, somewhere in the $75-150 range, with a 4" bass driver/speaker/cone/whatever. My office is not massive so I was thinking between 10-25W, I don't listen to drum and bass so that's not really a concern. I was thinking about getting a pair of studio monitors, with bluetooth. Then I just pair my laptop to the speakers and away I go. I tried looking at M-Audio and Behringer monitors, but can't find one with bluetooth M-Audio: https://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-BX5-D3-Production-Recording/dp/B01J66YEU0 Behringer: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-MS16-High-Performance-16-Watt-Personal/dp/B00181T20O/ I found this no-name brand Edifer @ $150: https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1700BT-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016PATXSI/ Any other ideas? I would like something sober-looking and no neon yellow or blue LEDs, "ultra bass" decals etc
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# ? May 11, 2020 21:34 |
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I have the $130 model of the Edifers (one step down) and like them, used in an office-ish room generally for Bluetooth audio and some retro gaming. Mine have a standard speaker wire our from right to left, the one above has some proprietary thing, unsure what that about unless it carries power and there's an amp in each speaker. If be slightly concerned about the length of that cable depending on what you're doing. Edit: I'm slightly confused why the $150 Edifers above cost more than the $130 ones I have. The $150 are lacking digial optical inputs, frequency response isnt as low (60 vs 55hz). I presume they sound better due to something in their spec sheet that I don't understand. I do prefer the wood colour on the $!50 models, but they tilt back which seems a bit odd to me. falz fucked around with this message at 16:18 on May 12, 2020 |
# ? May 11, 2020 22:58 |
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I’ve got a low-end 3.0 setup with some Klipsch Icon floorstanders from 2010, but I like the simplicity of sound bars since I live in an apartment where I don’t require lots of volume and they’d let me stream Spotify with voice commands. Are modern sound bars like the new Sonos Arc likely to sound as good as my current speakers for low to moderate volume use? Or am I still better off with the cheap Klipsch towers? I’m not too worried about bass.
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# ? May 13, 2020 01:52 |
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Panty Saluter posted:Do any receivers have low latency modes? My Yamaha has a “Pure Direct” mode that bypasses all the audio dsp stuff and just sends the unmolested audio and video through. Most receivers will have a similar mode
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# ? May 13, 2020 06:51 |
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# ? Apr 23, 2024 14:02 |
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Tacier posted:I’ve got a low-end 3.0 setup with some Klipsch Icon floorstanders from 2010, but I like the simplicity of sound bars since I live in an apartment where I don’t require lots of volume and they’d let me stream Spotify with voice commands. It's really hard to do midbass [eg male voices] from the small drivers soundbars use, signal processing can make up for it a bit but a 3" driver has to move 4 times farther than a 6" one to produce the same volume at a given frequency. If you replace them there will definitely be compromises but the difference between 3 towers vs one soundbar is significant. If you're looking at spending Sonos money maybe consider the Bluesound option? It has bigger drivers and also does voice control. Another option would be a Sonos Amp or Bluesound Powernode2i with only 2 of your towers.
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# ? May 13, 2020 17:00 |