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Look at all that rust. You don't need any loctite, nature will lock them up in a few months.
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Apr 25, 2020 04:53
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EvilBeard posted:I'd go red. if it's not something you expect to take apart again, go red. That's going to gently caress the next guy. Pro tip: You are going to be the next guy.
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Apr 26, 2020 02:54
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chrisgt posted:That's going to gently caress the next guy. Yup. Seriously. I used no loctite. No torque wrench. It was fine. You guys are overthinking this and yes, you will be the next guy who has to gently caress with it. As I recall the flange is designed to keep the bolt heads from spinning. Try loosening the nut not the bolt I guess. One of the few times Subaru did something nice for the mechanic other than the make-work scheme/rolling broken window paradox known as "the whole car".
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Apr 26, 2020 04:02
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chrisgt posted:That's going to gently caress the next guy. If they are not already then can you not just use nylock nuts?
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Apr 26, 2020 08:20
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Tomarse posted:If they are not already then can you not just use nylock nuts? They aren't on a subaru or anything else I can ever remember working on. I have never had a driveshaft fall off, i have also never even thought about torque on those. I guess i have spent enough time working on cars i have a feel for how tight things can be, i dunno. Give them all the same number of grunts and it'll be loving fine. I very rarely use loctite on anything. Old subarus have flywheel bolts that go into the oil galley (don't ask...), i use blue on those. Sometimes there are internal engine parts that want loctite, but for the love of all that is rusty and holy, don't go slathering it on poo poo that's going to rust into place and fight you anyway. edit for a rant. I loving hate nylocks. If you need one to keep your poo poo from falling apart, design your poo poo better in the first place. Also, the driveshaft bolts are so short, i doubt they'd engage the nylon part of a nylock, there isn't a ton of spare room in there. chrisgt fucked around with this message at 13:19 on Apr 26, 2020 |
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Apr 26, 2020 13:16
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chrisgt posted:edit for a rant. I loving hate nylocks. If you need one to keep your poo poo from falling apart, design your poo poo better in the first place. Haha. I nylock or lock washer everything as I prefer thing to fall off on my terms  You can get low profile ones. The last prop I did was on a landrover and I bought new nuts and bolts to go with it to replace the mismatched and rounded 50 y.o ones. The new nuts that came off the part number were low profile nylocks..
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Apr 26, 2020 13:35
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Low profile ones will reduce thread engagement though which is something I definitely would not do on a driveshaft flange bolt.
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Apr 26, 2020 14:27
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iirc all the late range rover classics and newer had a pinch nut on the drivelines. a good grunt and maybe a weak fart then send it. I've never had a driveline come apart from the flange even when it was a horrible piece of junkyard poo poo. Yokes/drive flanges backing off? haha wellll that's another story. gently caress people that use loctite with nylocks.
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Apr 26, 2020 15:45
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Change the EVAP vent solenoid in my wife's car to chase said system's leaks. Thank you, Honda, for making that job easy.
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Apr 27, 2020 01:27
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I have made a terrible mistake. I guess this is a "ride" of some sort. Preview:  Gallery of the nasty: https://imgur.com/gallery/KevZDDJ It's a 1984 Cheetah 176DLX, 17 feet (5.2m) long with 7'8" foot (2.33m) beam, weighing in at 2400 lbs (1088kg). The garbage is powered by a Mercruiser 140 3L four cylinder. I bought it from a friend for $1000 and it's been sitting up for two years. It seems good mechanically and doesn't have any huge cracks or anything. I need to do some gelcoat repair but all cosmetic stuff. The trailer is in great shape. List of the work done so far: Changed oil. It was clean but very gasoline-diluted. Charged the battery. It stands at 13.6V, so I think it's ok. Degreased the engine bay. Pressure washed it. Test-started it several times in the driveway. Took it to the river. Got towed at the river. Changed the corroded negative battery terminal. Tested restoring the gelcoat in the most conspicuous spot I could find. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ao_QfbjR54 Woo! wallaka fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Apr 27, 2020 |
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Apr 27, 2020 02:40
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I finally got the Saab out and about, so it could trade its place in the garage with the 2008 335i. Aired up the tires and took it for a shake down drive after sitting all winter. The pulling issue I felt right before parking it appears to have been caused by low pressure in the tire. I didn't feel any evidence of pulling or misalignment. Yay! However, I did completely forget about the fact that I had been having issue with the driver's side door lock actuator. Enough that I already bought a replacement. So I got locked in and had to climb out the passenger side door. After spending a half hour looking for WHERE I actually stuck that box and my trim removal tools (turns out those were in a random box of Datsun parts), the Bimmer surgery could begin. I might have been able to do this without trim removal tools, but drat did they make the job easier.  There were about 8 clips on the middle trim piece which in turn covered 3 torx screws. With those off, the door card was held on by a bunch of pretty standard trim clips. Under that, was a layer of insulation held on with some sort of butyl adhesive.  I got the insulation off by carefully slicing the adhesive and pulling the insulation off. It took a bit more time, but was worth it as it was able to just stick right back on after I was done.  Oh BMW and your interesting latching connectors.   I know some people do this job by just disconnecting the window from the guides and taping in place in the up position but I opted to just take the window out. Resting safely on a wood pile, as is specified in the official BMW E90 shop manual.  I took out the latch mechanism and the door handle bit. I suspect I could have done it leaving the door handle piece in place, but it seemed a lot easier to pull it all out.  Comparison of the new door lock actuator on the left and original on the right:  Ignore the broken tabs, that was my doing trying to pop it open and see what was going on inside. The replacement is a BMW OE replacement. It's interesting to see the design changes from the originally installed unit. Fun fact: that is held in place by 3 screws. The holes those screws go into in the lock actuator are not threaded, so BMW recommended procedure is to use new self tapping screws to mount it. All lubed up and ready to slide it in:  (The astute among you might notice that the door handle mechanism is not pressed out all the way into place, which would make it impossible to get the lock core in place. If you are: congratulations, you would have been saved about 10-15 minutes of frustration and swearing trying to figure out why that wouldn't slide in properly.) Door card popped back on. Identify what is wrong in this picture:  If you said that the inner door handle is just sticking out and that the inner handle actuating cable is sitting on the driver's seat, you are more observant than I was. It didn't take long to fix, but I did need to pop the door card off again and mount the cable. When all was said and done, the new lock actuator worked perfectly and it really wasn't that terrible of a job to do. And because I don't know to quite while I'm ahead, I decided to spruce up my headlight lenses a bit with the 3M restoration kit. Not a perfect job by any stretch and the car needs a bath badly, but it does look a LOT better.  I did scorch a little spot on the other lens, which chaps my rear end a bit, but it isn't terrible and isn't in an incredibly noticeable spot. Now I also need to address the 3 completely separate light failure codes that it is giving me. At least one is the lamp for the angel eyes on the passenger side. I have a replacement lamp already because it's gone out in the past, however, it always just starts working again. Also, to replace that lamp, you need to remove the front wheel and inner fender liner. And that's not something I really feel like doing right at this moment.
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Apr 27, 2020 13:26
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That post reminded me to look up how to replace a non functioning lock actuator on the passenger side for a Jeep. Of course going in I'm thinking "yeah, it is the right side so it will be more." Wasn't disappointed, it was 60% more for the same brand. Never fails.
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Apr 27, 2020 15:15
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:That post reminded me to look up how to replace a non functioning lock actuator on the passenger side for a Jeep. It actually ended up being cheaper, or barely more (it's been a while since I bought it so I don't really recall), for me to buy the driver and passenger sides as a set than just buying the driver's side individually.
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Apr 27, 2020 15:47
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I popped the old lock actuator apart to see if I could find the failure mode. My guess was a messed up nylon gear. I'm reasonably sure none on these were broken during the disassembly of this part.   
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Apr 27, 2020 16:51
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Yeah, I'm not actually sure where the failure mode is at this point. Not my car, she mostly drives alone, etc. so not a big thing. IIRC there really isn't a "humming noise" or things of that nature. Could be a switch? Who knows.
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Apr 27, 2020 17:26
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I've been mildly concerned that I had a CV joint on the way out for the past few months but I lacked the space to work on it so I've been ignoring it. I've had a garage for a month now so I finally got around to taking a look at it. I went to slide the jack under the front of the car and it immediately got stuck on the undertray. All but three of the remaining push pins finally let go and the tire was rubbing on the tray when at full lock. I've been meaning to get new pins for that thing for at least three years now so I'm not surprised by this. And that's how I fixed a CV joint with a screwdriver.
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Apr 29, 2020 05:35
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My second attempt at breaking the driveshaft free from the diff resulted in yet another tactical retreat. I guess my blind application of PB Blaster, since I didn't want to bother jacking up the car, was inadequate despite applying it on Friday. (I didn't get to wrenching today due to work and weather.) I also slightly mangled one of the nuts which signaled me to stop wrenching. One I get this fucker free, I probably should replace the nut depending on how bad the damage is. One of the flats is all nice and shiny now. At least I've gotten a routine down with jacking the car up and I was able to perform a more methodical application of PB while making sure I hit each nut and thread very thoroughly. Now I guess I need to give it time. By the way, is there a good way to dispose of the excess drippings?  I made a big mistake the first time around and didn't have anything to collect the excess so I ended up cleaning the floor with Dawn since it's all I had that I thought would be appropriate to clean it with. EDIT: Oh yeah. And I almost got PB Blaster in my eye if it weren't for the fact that I was wearing prescription glasses. Again I'm stupidly lucky (I've had this car break down twice; first right as I got to work and we have an auto service shop that could fix it and second right after pulling out of my driveway and I could limp the car back home) and fortunate that polycarbonate seems to resist PB Blaster. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Apr 29, 2020 |
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Apr 29, 2020 17:35
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Went from "eh yeah I definitely need brakes but I can see pad material and these stupid rotors look fine" to "oh gently caress, limp it home" real quick. I bought pads and rotors ~2 months ago and was procrastinating putting them on for possibly too long.  Still have paint on the face of the hub. I love this stupid car. 2003 and it's still actually 100% free of all rust. It's hilarious.   I think the pads didn't appreciate the combination of autocrosses and the car sitting over the winter and breaking free of rust over multiple years. They're EBC redstuff that have been on there for a very long time, but not many miles. I need to paint the stupid calipers silver or black because red is gross. Falling off red is even worse.
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Apr 29, 2020 17:47
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Wasabi the J posted:What kind of one would I need to look at on Amazon for a Subaru Depends on the year, could be CF15 or CF18. Try searching on here: https://www.diodedynamics.com/ I got their SmartTap CF18 used off of another forum and installed it in my BRZ today. I got it for the tap-to-pass feature rather than for putting in LED lights so I can't comment on how well they work for that, but their basic models are only  so probably comparable to whatever's on Amazon. Installation on the BRZ was a bitch, they put the relay way up along the steering column held on by a clip not accessible from the underside, so the new one is taped right next to the old one. Hopefully on other models its in a more sensible place, like maybe with all the other relays.
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Apr 30, 2020 21:11
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Older Subarus cram it way up there too. I ran into mine when trying to disconnect the DRL module...
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Apr 30, 2020 23:24
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Spent some time refreshing the intake bits on my BX 16v while it's apart:  Just waiting on the injectors to come back from cleaning!
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May 1, 2020 14:35
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I'd recognize an XU intake anywhere. Looking good!
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May 1, 2020 15:32
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Grakkus posted:Spent some time refreshing the intake bits on my BX 16v while it's apart: How did you clean this? It looks incredible.
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May 1, 2020 18:06
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DrChu posted:Depends on the year, could be CF15 or CF18. Try searching on here: https://www.diodedynamics.com/ Oh, that's a neat feature to have. I drive old junk, so have only experienced that on a Home Depot rental F-250. Handy. Would not mind adding that feature to, well, everything.
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May 1, 2020 20:20
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I love that feature but most OEM's default to 3 blinks which I feel isn't nearly enough. I was able to code mine to 5 though.
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May 1, 2020 23:33
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It was a bit touch and go for a moment but I finally did it.   I'll probably get around to installing the replacement tomorrow. Maybe. This took a lot out of me trying to wrench through all that rust and in somewhat tight clearances. Two of the cover bolts were a complete pain in the rear end because the exhaust was covering them and I ended up partially removing the exhaust to get at them with the breaker bar. I left the transaxle end of the shaft in place since it's trivial to remove at this point and I didn't want to leave that part of the transaxle exposed to the weather while I rest before installing the replacement.
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May 2, 2020 23:40
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I put in a softer clutch assist spring last night and clutch action is much better. Hydraulic clutches are still weird to me. No pictures because "tiny car" interior. Why do I like tiny cars? 
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May 3, 2020 00:05
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Edward IV posted:It was a bit touch and go for a moment but I finally did it. You replacing the u-joint, or did it damage the yolk too bad? Rockford drivelines makes replacements for the staked in u-joints. They're not super fun to install, but not that hard. Just takes patience.
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May 3, 2020 00:09
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Good work, Edward! You were the one asking about what tools to get, weren’t you? Anyway, I worked, so I guess I made money that I’ll spend on my Golf somehow.
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May 3, 2020 02:20
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Finally got all of my stuff together to replace the diff I blew up. AP2 S2000 rear diff with 115k miles (stronger than AP1 in multiple ways) AP1 diff flange since the AP2 driveshaft has a different flange and I don't have an AP2 transmission output flange right now, though I'd prefer to have just tossed an AP2 driveshaft into it since you can swap transmission output flanges without worry, unlike diff flanges. Rebuilt OS Giken with ramps that make it a 1.5 way rather than '1.1 way' J'S Racing solid pinion spacer Hopefully it doesn't break this time.  Ramps before  Ramps after 
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 02:41 on May 3, 2020 |
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May 3, 2020 02:30
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chrisgt posted:You replacing the u-joint, or did it damage the yolk too bad? The joint is integral to the shaft so the whole driveshaft has to be replaced. I ended up buying a remanufactured driveshaft from Rock Auto since none of the junkyards around me seem to have manual Subaru Foresters to scavenge from. This was also right around when COVID-19 started taking off here and calls for quarantines so I didn't think it was worth the trouble perusing pick and pulls anyways. This is the carnage that I just took out.   The driveshaft had also smacked the shifter linkage so hard that the shifter no longer points up straight in neutral. Edward IV fucked around with this message at 02:46 on May 3, 2020 |
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May 3, 2020 02:42
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Edward IV posted:The driveshaft had also smacked the shifter linkage so hard that the shifter no longer points up straight in neutral. 
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May 3, 2020 02:49
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Mother-in-law's 95 Nissan Hardbody is being stored at our place while she relocates. I took it for a drive today to keep the battery topped up and ended up helping a neighbor move a dining table so gently caress yeah, truck things. It's really kind of a beat up piece of poo poo that needs a lot of TLC but simultaneously feels like it will run forever. I figure that is the fate of all 90s Japanese trucks.
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May 3, 2020 03:48
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Minto Took posted:I put in a softer clutch assist spring last night and clutch action is much better. Hydraulic clutches are still weird to me. Did you get the MTEC spring?
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May 3, 2020 15:32
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Finished the disc brake kit install after having to get shorter bolts for the bracket to spindle and started working on the rear end as I have a new center section and axles coming. 3 hours of torching, hammering and swearing the thing is out and I finally got a good look at the trailing arms and the passenger side one is bent a good 45 degrees in the middle, so solves the mystery of why it was lower on one side. Of course no one makes new ones apart from one guy in WI who wants $500 for a tubular set with all 4. Ehhhhh guess the wallet is opening up again. Coilovers are due to be here tomorrow so I can finish the front end and get it back on ground and then while I wait for rear end parts to get here start grinding and cutting out the rot and plating it with my stack of license plates. Found some wiring diagrams so feeling better about trying to get the electrics working. Also found a set of the proper 63 Grand Prix grill and parking lights of ye olde ebaye for $100 which was nice.
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May 3, 2020 17:41
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DrChu posted:Did you get the MTEC spring? Yep
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May 3, 2020 18:06
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It's done. After sitting for 6 1/2 weeks being unable to safely move under its own power, my Forester is driveable again.   I haven't tallied up the cost of the shaft and tools were nor do I know how much this would have costed to have the car towed and repaired so I can't do a price comparison. Despite needing to buy all my tools brand new including sockets, ratchets, wrenches, 3 ton floor jack, and jack stands, doing this myself is still the better choice regardless of pricing since the tools are all mine to use again and the experience is certainly worth while. That said, I probably need to work on my upper body strength because gently caress am I sore. And in case some were skeptical, this is the shifter in neutral.  
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May 3, 2020 20:38
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I ordered what I thought was the correct parking brake cable for the '88 4Runner. It was not:  I dumbly assumed this was just an updated design, but the bolt pattern isn't the same and the connector at the end of the spring is different:  I have the proper cable ordered and on the way. I'm really glad my driveway is mostly level. One thing I did notice while I was unbolting the old parking brake cable from the fire: https://i.imgur.com/bHL37V6.gifv One of the studs for the exhaust/PAIR system (I think) seems to have stripped out its hole.  I did have a slightly larger bolt on hand and appropriate tap:  Well crap:  Nothing a slot for a screwdriver via cutoff wheel won't help:  You've got to make sure you torque down those regular head screws appropriately:  I didn't have to screw it far beyond that flange, I had a stubby 3/4" socket that was able to fit in there without issue. 
nadmonk fucked around with this message at 17:21 on May 4, 2020 |
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May 4, 2020 17:12
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May 4, 2020 22:15
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nadmonk posted:You've got to make sure you torque down those regular head screws appropriately: Can we make a picture a thread title?
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May 4, 2020 23:47
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