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Rapulum_Dei posted:In case anyone hasn’t already seen it: https://youtu.be/Sx2y7MAys20 What is the tool they're using at 9 minutes, 5 seconds?
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May 7, 2020 22:35
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What is the tool they're using at 9 minutes, 5 seconds? Thanks for sharing that video Rapulum_Dei. I’ve not seen it but excited to watch the rest later.
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May 7, 2020 22:40
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Aha, clever. So the drillbit hogs out material and the chisels make the walls straight. Sounds useful, though I expect the chisel would be a pain to sharpen! Thanks for the explanation.
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May 7, 2020 23:18
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Thanks. A friend has one he uses for model making and he’s willing to try some stuff out for me, I just didn’t know if it was even worth trying. I’m trying to figure out how to do some marquetry lettering that doesn’t involve cutting 50 letters by hand. Sounds like it is probably better to cut the male and female parts separately instead of making a stack and cutting both at once like marquetry? Yeah, you will want to cut them separately. The laser can only cut straight down and while the kerf is thin it will leave a noticeable gap. It will also require more power or slower cut to go through twice the material. The less power and quicker you can go the cleaner the cut. You can use the same drawing though and just adjust the cut side of the line (inside for female, outside for male) and they will line up exact. The male side won't really matter as much on machine placement as long as it fits and you like the grain direction. Female obviously will need to be lined up exactly where you want all the lettering.
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May 7, 2020 23:37
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Aha, clever. So the drillbit hogs out material and the chisels make the walls straight. Sounds useful, though I expect the chisel would be a pain to sharpen! Thanks for the explanation. I have one of these, been awhile since I've built any furniture so I haven't cut any mortises lately. They are easy enough to sharpen, you just have to get the right abrasive cone then it's just a matter of sticking the cone in the drill press and putting the hollow chisel below. Then you flatten the outside faces the same way you'd do a chisel back. Easily my favourite way to cut a mortise, quick and quiet. Here's what the cones look like: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...hisels-and-bits
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May 8, 2020 01:39
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What is the tool they're using at 9 minutes, 5 seconds? You need to start watching some of Ishitani Furniture's videos.
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May 8, 2020 11:12
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:That coop is beautiful and absolutely perfect for what I want to build. Do you happen to have plans for it? Sorry for the delay, I wasn't checking the thread recently. The plans are here https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/wichita-cabin-coop.47747/ They sell them for $5 for a couple different SketchUp files and a PDF. It's literally a mom and pop selling them on the side so I don't mind at all tossing them some cash. Only big modification I made was using plywood for the coop walls and floor instead of tongue and groove boards. Also the nesting box partition is removable in mine to allow easier cleaning and i used corrugated PVC roofing. You can see tons of other people's examples and mods in their Facebook page linked in the above website.
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May 8, 2020 13:13
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Aha, clever. So the drillbit hogs out material and the chisels make the walls straight. Sounds useful, though I expect the chisel would be a pain to sharpen! Thanks for the explanation. This is the same model I have and they're the best that were ever made. Built like tanks to run 3 shifts a day in a factory for 35 years, and it'll punch a 1" sq. hole through 2.5" of solid oak as easy as poplar. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvuZZ9ssd2s This shows some of the guts/mechanics that are kind of neat. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_3yeBe8sJE
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May 8, 2020 13:56
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Aha, clever. So the drillbit hogs out material and the chisels make the walls straight. Sounds useful, though I expect the chisel would be a pain to sharpen! Thanks for the explanation. We had to chisel out mortices when I did timber framing. Was fun.
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May 8, 2020 15:17
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Yeah, my usual mortising method is to hog out most of the material with a drill or drill press, then chisel out the corners and any little ridges left over from the drill. The hollow chisel mortiser just combines those two steps. I wonder if anyone ever made one to go with a hand-cranked portable drill press like this thing: 
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May 8, 2020 16:15
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, my usual mortising method is to hog out most of the material with a drill or drill press, then chisel out the corners and any little ridges left over from the drill. The hollow chisel mortiser just combines those two steps. I actually miss the mortice hogger we used to partly clear out the wood on large beams. It clamped onto the beam and while running it would endmill out wood as the bit was moved like an etch-a-sketch.
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May 8, 2020 21:28
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This is from a page back but latex paint is like the easiest paint to strip? Just use a paint stripper chemical. Hell, undiluted simple green will strip latex! Citristrip works great and is among the less horribly toxic ones, but still use gloves and do it outside. You can use heat but you probably don't even need to do that. Just glob on the stripper, wait a while, and it'll come off with a plastic scraper or whatever. Often the stain in the paint will have stained the wood a little, so like bright red paint might leave you with not very pretty wood underneath, your mileage may vary. But I'd far rather strip latex than just about any other kind of paint.
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May 8, 2020 21:37
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Leperflesh posted:This is from a page back but latex paint is like the easiest paint to strip? Just use a paint stripper chemical. Hell, undiluted simple green will strip latex! Citristrip works great and is among the less horribly toxic ones, but still use gloves and do it outside. You can use heat but you probably don't even need to do that. Just glob on the stripper, wait a while, and it'll come off with a plastic scraper or whatever. Often the stain in the paint will have stained the wood a little, so like bright red paint might leave you with not very pretty wood underneath, your mileage may vary. Yeah, lead paint is really great for endurance and really not for removal.
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May 8, 2020 23:07
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Stultus Maximus posted:Yeah, lead paint is really great for endurance and really not for removal. Lead paint is unironically great except that it kills children. On an aside, I ruined a bandsaw blade and can't bring myself to throw out 60 inches of good spring steel. Any advice on making marking knives and scratch stock out of it? I have an unfortunate habit of overheating things on the grinder when I'm not being careful.
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May 9, 2020 02:26
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I've got this old table we found in a shed on a family member's property, and I was going to sand it down so I could refinish it, but then someone told me I should just get a scraper instead and oh my god this is so much better than sanding.
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May 9, 2020 05:05
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The junk collector posted:Lead paint is unironically great except that it kills children. Those and old sawzall blades make great pumpkin carving knives haha
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May 9, 2020 16:53
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The junk collector posted:Lead paint is unironically great except that it kills children. My advice would be not to use a grinder. I've made some scratch stocks out of bandsaw blades and I use tin snips to cut the pieces, then files and sharpening stones for the rest. Probably a bit slower than anything powered, but no risk of overheating.
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May 9, 2020 19:29
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couch project: I hadn't gotten past rough drawings and had no idea how to deal with a few things until I did this today.   1/4 scale mockup, solved a bunch of problems I had from just rough sketches and thinking. Going to try a couple different leg/sides tomorrow and figure out how I want to upholster the inset panels and if they should have the wood panel in there. Also building a tiny couch is hilarious and actually extremely fun.
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May 10, 2020 04:55
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Hypnolobster posted:couch project: You didn't have to move Barbie and Ken in overalls and toolbelt off camera. This is a safe space.
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May 10, 2020 17:51
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Naw man this is a 1:4 scale couch. Barbie and Ken are 1:6.
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May 10, 2020 17:53
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Hypnolobster posted:couch project: Do you own cats? Because that should be a cat couch.
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May 10, 2020 18:11
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That Works posted:Do you own cats? Because that should be a cat couch. With scratching posts for front legs? Goon project incoming? edit How hard/feasible/areyoueveninterested would it be to hinge the back and seat into a rollout sleeper?
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May 10, 2020 18:54
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Mr. Mambold posted:
Isn't that just a futon at that point? If I have a budget of roughly $750 for a table saw (hah, I have spent so much more than just buying a desk at this point. Oh well) am I best served buying new or trawling through craigslist/FB marketplace/pawn shops for used saws?
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May 10, 2020 20:07
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Olothreutes posted:Isn't that just a futon at that point? If you think you will only use a table saw to make 1 desk and never touch it again than your math works. Otherwise you are buying a tool to allow you to create many things and its value goes up significantly. A single project might be a good excuse to purchase a new tool but don't think of it in terms of x for y.
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May 10, 2020 21:00
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JEEVES420 posted:If you think you will only use a table saw to make 1 desk and never touch it again than your math works. Otherwise you are buying a tool to allow you to create many things and its value goes up significantly. A single project might be a good excuse to purchase a new tool but don't think of it in terms of x for y. Oh, I'm joking. I have wanted to get into wood working for ages in a more serious capacity than I have been able to due to time and money constraints. But I'm working (from home even) now, out of graduate school, and need a solid impetus to clear out my garage so I can store more tools. I would love to be able to buy a crazy cabinet saw, I just don't have the space and that's definitely above the wife-threshold for objections. But at this point I've picked up several tools already that I can use for a lot of projects (ok, the sander is less universal than an impact driver or shopvac) and I'd like to get a decent table saw that will last me a while, but finding actual data I trust is hard. You guys seem reasonable and grounded, other forums get questions like mine and a bunch of people show up like "oh for under a grand/two grand you won't get a decent anything so gently caress that, your budget is dumb and you are dumb" and other related bullshit. It may be that I could get a $300 saw and be fine, I don't actually know. I guess the most important thing is that the table is flat, the blade is true to the fence or vice versa, and that I get a better miter gauge than the stock one? I guess rip capacity over 24 inches might be useful in some applications, but I don't know if that's required or even very useful in reality.
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May 10, 2020 21:11
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Olothreutes posted:Isn't that just a futon at that point? You can get a perfectly adequate table saw on Craigslist for $50 if you just want occasional use. The true cost of a table saw isn't measured in dollars though, it's measured in space. How often would you use it, would you want to transport it, how much ease of use/quality of life do you want?
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May 10, 2020 21:14
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The dewalt jobsite table saw (DW735?) gets a lot of love. For $750 you'd have a good bit left over to build a bench/outfeed table/get a router with. With that budget you're in used unisaw territory but that's a cabinet saw. The older delta jobsite saws on legs are pretty decent too and available used. They are heavy af, which may or may not be an advantage.The junk collector posted:On an aside, I ruined a bandsaw blade and can't bring myself to throw out 60 inches of good spring steel. Any advice on making marking knives and scratch stock out of it? I have an unfortunate habit of overheating things on the grinder when I'm not being careful. But that's a lot of work and I treat scratch stocks as pretty disposable. I grind them and gently caress up the temper, but they usually work well enough, and its easy enough to grind a quick fresh edge. Remember they are scrapers, so they aren't super duper hard to begin with.
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May 10, 2020 21:20
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The junk collector posted:You can get a perfectly adequate table saw on Craigslist for $50 if you just want occasional use. The true cost of a table saw isn't measured in dollars though, it's measured in space. How often would you use it, would you want to transport it, how much ease of use/quality of life do you want? I hope I would use it at least a few times a month, minimum, and quite a bit more ideally. It would need to live on a rolling cart or something like that, my garage is just not big enough to have much of a dedicated space for anything. It's a one car space that the previous owner put a bunch of shelves into awkwardly and also needs to house a bunch of stuff that would usually go in a basement or attic, but both of those are unusable or non-existent for me. Beyond rolling around in the garage when I need it/store it it wouldn't need to go very far. I'm not trying to build stuff on site like a contractor or anything. Also craigslist around here hasn't had anything amazing, just someone trying to sell a $300 dewalt saw for 450 and a super old craftsman thing that I can't find any data for.
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May 10, 2020 21:23
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DEWALT (DWE7491RS) 10-Inch Table Saw, 32-1/2-Inch Rip Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F2CGXGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_drgUEbV9B3VQS This is my saw, I think I paid $500 or $550 for it I love it very much and it packs away vertically which was great when I was in a tiny one-car garage shop that I still needed to park my car in Now I have a house with a 650sqft garage and I’m trying to sell it so I can buy a sawstop but it’s served me real drat well for three years The small size can be pretty limiting in lots of ways, like the picture frame jig I never made because it would be too big
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May 10, 2020 21:32
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So someone a few cities to the south is selling a shopsmith table saw. What the hell is this thing? E: Ok, so google appears to think it is a mark V table saw/lathe combo. Huh. If these are solid tools I might consider this (lathe? Sure). It apparently comes with the bandsaw you can see on the right as well. Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 21:56 on May 10, 2020 |
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May 10, 2020 21:49
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Olothreutes posted:So someone a few cities to the south is selling a shopsmith table saw. What the hell is this thing? Was an attempt at a tool to do everything off one motor, lathe/plane/saw/etc. It does everything mediocre with no safety features (just look at the saw blade). Edit: FWIW I have heard it is more frustration than worth it.
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May 10, 2020 21:56
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JEEVES420 posted:Was an attempt at a tool to do everything off one motor, lathe/plane/saw/etc. It does everything mediocre with no safety features (just look at the saw blade). Yeah that blade is just asking for a hand to chew on, holy poo poo. At least I won't have to figure out how to transport it many miles. Thanks for the input. I found a rigid saw at an estate sale, but it's technically an auction and has like two weeks left on it so who knows how much it'll actually cost.
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May 10, 2020 22:25
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Olothreutes posted:So someone a few cities to the south is selling a shopsmith table saw. What the hell is this thing? ShopSmiths were popular in the 80s and have a bit of a cult following these days. You find them anywhere from $200 to $2000 depending on how cleaned up it is and what accessories it comes with. Like Jeeves says, it does everything but it's not great at anything. The motor on it slides on those rails to engage whatever attachment you have and then you lock everything in place for working. The motor itself is pretty decent but the saws tables are all lacking and like Jeeves also pointed out, these were designed back before safety features were really a thing and never really updated in that respect. I used one for a while and while I enjoyed it, it honestly doesn't save you a ton of space since you still have to store the attachments which are all roughly the size of an equivalent stand alone benchtop powertool but it does roll easy enough to move around the garage. It's also twice the footprint of a typical Craftsman 10" table saw. The "lathe" is pretty decent for spindle turning but if I recall correctly, they aren't a common thread size for chuck attachments so you have to buy the fancy ShopSmith one.
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May 10, 2020 23:22
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I think I'm going to pass on that thing, it sounds neat but looks like more than I need and a hassle to actually get home let alone use. On the other hand there's an auction right now with a Ridgid TS3650, which comes with almost exclusively good reviews but no riving knife. I figure if I can walk away with that for like 200 or less that's probably the way to go.
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May 10, 2020 23:27
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That Works posted:Do you own cats? Because that should be a cat couch. drat this would be such a fun hobby
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May 10, 2020 23:50
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:drat this would be such a fun hobby Probably a big business
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May 11, 2020 00:04
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shovelbum posted:Probably a big business Not that big, maybe 1/4 as big as a normal one
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May 11, 2020 00:14
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For a sub $750 table saw, I really recommend the Lowe's Delta. Cast iron top, integrated mobile base, can be rewired for 240v if desired, can fit a full dado stack. It's my one power tool purchase I don't regret even a little bit. Also I don't have a picture handy, but the right side of the saw has ample room for a router table addition/table extension.
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May 11, 2020 02:10
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Mr. Mambold posted:How hard/feasible/areyoueveninterested would it be to hinge the back and seat into a rollout sleeper? On a related note, I think I've gotten enough out of the mockup to call it good and move on to not-woodworking cushion sewing (and then I can make a full scale partial mockup and actually sit on it and make sure it all works out correctly).  I'm going to be using elasbelt webbing for the decking, and I'll be making a bunch of dados in some secondary wood and making an inset frame all the way around to pass it through.  I want the back and bottom frames to be completely self-contained and removable (because otherwise this couch will weigh many pounds as one piece). Decided on a good way that makes it strong and gives two solid planes that I can do inset upholstery on in case the couch is ever in the middle of a room and the back is visible.  Figured out a width that feels okay for the side panel. On the real thing, I'm going to do a solid inset upholstery panel on the inside with foam and the wood panel will be set back maybe 3/4" from the outside of the frame. It's pushed back all the way in the model because I was too lazy to block it out with more felt. Side note: holy gently caress everything is expensive. 110 yards of elasbelt is about $60, and I need.. A lot more than 110 yards. Also the fabric I'm considering is about $30 per yard and I'll probably need ~10 yards. Cheap couch my rear end.
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May 11, 2020 02:41
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Hypnolobster posted:Doable, but a significantly more complex/way less sturdy design to make it happen. Also I'm grossed out by sleeper couches and futons. That's really the main danger of building a partially-upholstered couch. It's always going to be on the bare edge of looking like outdoor furniture/cheap futon (especially with the general design I'm going with, which I love but it's definitely one wrong choice away from looking really mediocre). Fair enough. Hypnolobster posted:On a related note, I think I've gotten enough out of the mockup to call it good and move on to not-woodworking cushion sewing (and then I can make a full scale partial mockup and actually sit on it and make sure it all works out correctly). You realize a yard of fabric is a lot more than a square yard, right?
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May 11, 2020 03:53
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