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I'm slowly in the process of converting my desktop into a something I can do all my work from, and having just acquired a headset so I can take work-calls from it, now I'm thinking about a camera for Zoom meetings and whatnot. What should I be looking for, for something that's going to be better than your average grainy laptop webcam?
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# ? May 10, 2020 04:18 |
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# ? Apr 24, 2024 20:22 |
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gradenko_2000 posted:I'm slowly in the process of converting my desktop into a something I can do all my work from, and having just acquired a headset so I can take work-calls from it, now I'm thinking about a camera for Zoom meetings and whatnot. Good luck finding anything at this point. CDWG has our webcams backordered for at least another month. I like my Logitech C920 HD Pro. The mic is decent on it too.
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# ? May 10, 2020 04:23 |
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Ryzen 7 3700X 2X16 Corsair RGBPro 3200 Gigabyte B450m Is it normal for a stick of ram to go bad after a month? A game froze my entire pc today, then 20 minutes later froze again, then blue screen loop on boot. Pulled out my second stick, booted fine. Swapped sticks, blue screen. Up until this point Ive been running my ram with XMP to 3200, 16-18-18-18-36 and a manual voltage setting of 1.35. Everything else is stock. The voltage on Newegg is listed as 1.35. Edit: after removing the faulty stick, I reset the bios to default, turned XMP on and left the timing and volts in auto. Its running totally fine and reporting 3200. It wouldnt do that stable with both even when they were new. Rolo fucked around with this message at 06:41 on May 10, 2020 |
# ? May 10, 2020 06:23 |
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gradenko_2000 posted:I'm slowly in the process of converting my desktop into a something I can do all my work from, and having just acquired a headset so I can take work-calls from it, now I'm thinking about a camera for Zoom meetings and whatnot. Also, brightly light yourself with some lamps. Also get a decent microphone and consider the room acoustics. Because every kid wants to a 'game streamer' or ''Youtube star' there's an absolutely ton of channels/videos dedicated to the gear and setups. Be careful not to go down the rabbit hole where you suddenly lust after a microphone setup costing several hundred... (only to be saved by it all being out of stock...) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rXsWPEZosQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NJRzWgF9k9c https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61TcpH7RI_8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqTx8kYwckg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cf3bqgxn-2I
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# ? May 10, 2020 08:01 |
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Rolo posted:Ryzen 7 3700X If your RAM can't run stable at the advertised speeds by just turning on XMP and not touching anything else, it is faulty and you should seek a warranty replacement. Under no circumstance believe anything about XMP being overclocking and therefore not covered by warranty.
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# ? May 10, 2020 10:33 |
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Geemer posted:If your RAM can't run stable at the advertised speeds by just turning on XMP and not touching anything else, it is faulty and you should seek a warranty replacement. Under no circumstance believe anything about XMP being overclocking and therefore not covered by warranty. I was hoping to hear that but I wasnt sure if faulty ram is a thing that actually happens anymore or if I was just missing something. Is it ever the motherboard slot? Should I try the good stick alone in it and make sure before filing a Corsair ticket?
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# ? May 10, 2020 15:02 |
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Absolutely that is possible, and not even a rare occurrence. Similarly, motherboards are notorious for not liking all of the slots being populated, or being fine with one dual channel pair being populated but not the other, with the same ram.
Hipster_Doofus fucked around with this message at 16:43 on May 10, 2020 |
# ? May 10, 2020 16:40 |
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I bought them from my local Best Buy and just got off the phone with an absolute dude who is letting me do a quick curbside swap for a new set while they do the warranty claim themselves.
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# ? May 10, 2020 16:53 |
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Hipster_Doofus posted:Absolutely that is possible, and not even a rare occurrence. Similarly, motherboards are notorious for not liking all of the slots being populated, or being fine with one dual channel pair being populated but not the other, with the same ram. CPU memory controllers often can't run faster dual rank RAM at full speed when all slots are populated. If you're using four sticks, single rank is always a better choice.
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# ? May 10, 2020 17:21 |
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Im just on 2/4 slots but thats good to know. Before boxing it up I put the good stick in 2 slots and it booted fine. Put the other stick in both and got a blue screen both times. Im all but positive replacement sticks are the way to go.
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# ? May 10, 2020 17:22 |
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New RAM didnt fix it. XMP on gets me a boot loop 3-4 times then boots with the RAM at 2133. Granted at this stage theyre at least working. Bad motherboard maybe?
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# ? May 10, 2020 19:13 |
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Sounds like maybe the ram *and* the mobo are dodgy, or that brand of ram has compatibility issues. Try a different brand?
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# ? May 10, 2020 20:28 |
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Totally forgot I have 2X8GB of T-Force 3200 from an older build I could swap out for testing. Cleared CMOS, turned XMP on and nothing else and its booting fine, passing memtest and reporting 3200. I think my specific motherboard/ram/cpu combo just didnt like each other? I think Im going to return this new memory and just try to get a refund. Id rather just have my 16 gigs that work well than 32 that take effort.
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# ? May 10, 2020 20:48 |
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Is the BIOS up to date? They often address RAM compatibility issues.
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# ? May 10, 2020 20:54 |
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Yeah it is. Edit: got a very easy refund and my pc has been fine all day with my older memory. Im just going to revisit memory/motherboard upgrades next year if I end up with a new Nvidia card. Rolo fucked around with this message at 22:56 on May 10, 2020 |
# ? May 10, 2020 20:58 |
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The one stick is probably just a "little" defective... just bad enough for your mobo to poo poo the bed over it, rather than an inherent incompatibility, which is why it's bad in both slots. E: oh wait you got it replaced. Huh. Hipster_Doofus fucked around with this message at 01:56 on May 11, 2020 |
# ? May 11, 2020 01:51 |
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I have an Intel NUC (MODEL: BOXDC53427HYE) and I want to get an SSD for it. Can I just get any mSATA SSD or is there something special about these boxes that require a certain kind/speed/cache? I've been out of the hardware loop since I bought this thing in *checks notes* late 2013...
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# ? May 11, 2020 04:11 |
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poo poo POST MALONE posted:I have an Intel NUC (MODEL: BOXDC53427HYE) and I want to get an SSD for it. All of the mSATA stuff should be compatible, it's only when they moved to M.2 slots that there was a split between sata and nvme drives. I'd just get a known name brand, although prices are a little weird because there's not many made but mostly older laptops and NUCs that use that form factor.
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# ? May 11, 2020 04:23 |
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poo poo POST MALONE posted:I have an Intel NUC (MODEL: BOXDC53427HYE) and I want to get an SSD for it.
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# ? May 11, 2020 05:49 |
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I've had 2 cheapass printers crap out on me in a row, about a year or two after I buy them. Since I'll be working at home for at least a year I should get a printer. Is there some kind of 'buy this printer it won't explode' recommendation? Do I have to get a laser printer? Are there any good recommendations on printers? I suppose there are no sales... everyone must be buying a printer these days.
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# ? May 15, 2020 02:00 |
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I bought a Xerox Phaser 6130 laserjet printer in 2006 and I've only replaced the toner one time. I think it was the color toner too.
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# ? May 15, 2020 02:12 |
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redreader posted:I've had 2 cheapass printers crap out on me in a row, about a year or two after I buy them. Since I'll be working at home for at least a year I should get a printer. Is there some kind of 'buy this printer it won't explode' recommendation? Do I have to get a laser printer? Are there any good recommendations on printers? I suppose there are no sales... everyone must be buying a printer these days. Printer thread here if you like: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3862377 Get inkjet if you print occasionally or if inkjet has other capabities you need. Make sure you print a test page every so often, like every other week or so, to keep the ink moving, or else it dries up or clogs. Get a laser only if you print a lot or if laser printing fills specific requirements (like crisp text on average paper). Also laser printers tend to "just work" and do not require the kind of periodic maintenance that inkjets do. But when something has to be replaced, it is expensive. Manufacturers matter a lot. I usually go with Canon for inkjets or Brother for lasers. Others swear by HP. Dell is universally hated.
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# ? May 15, 2020 02:19 |
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This is probably the thread for this question: Since I'm lucky enough to be working from home, I have a desk with my desktop, wifes desktop, and a work laptop + docking station. When working I use the monitor from my desktop as my main monitor and my laptop monitor. Now when we want to use our desktops together, I need to move all the cords. Which is both a pain in the rear end, and probably not great for the ports. I know what I need is some sort of KVM switch solution but I'm a little lost on what to buy.
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# ? May 15, 2020 09:05 |
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el dorito posted:Make sure you print a test page every so often, like every other week or so, to keep the ink moving, or else it dries up or clogs. Or just buy a laser. Jfc why would you recommend a sure-to-dry-up inkjet to someone?!
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# ? May 15, 2020 14:28 |
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EssOEss posted:Or just buy a laser. Jfc why would you recommend a sure-to-dry-up inkjet to someone?! Trolls gonna troll. Last I checked the goonsensus was one of the little Brother HL series. Dunno what's up with the latest models, etc. We had one at work (HL2240?) and it was cheap, good, and reliable. I've had one of their MFC models for 10 years since I wanted copying+scanning, still going strong. I print rarely but when I do need big print sessions it's also reliable. And refilling the toner cartridge with cheap-rear end eBay toner (make sure you get one with the gear kit) is pretty easy, and is good quality/hasn't messed up the printer or any prints. I assume this holds for the HL series toner cartridges, but do a little research on that if you care--the original toner cartridges are not that expensive for how many pages you get out of them anyway. Not that you care about this, but the batch scanning is alright. I don't think it's as good as a dedicated batch scanner. The only other complaint is that its feedthrough for envelopes mangles them. It might be my unit or something else I'm doing wrong. I switched to printing on labels, which works fine.
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# ? May 15, 2020 14:58 |
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ChiralCondensate posted:Last I checked the goonsensus was one of the little Brother HL series. Yes. I snagged this for $100 on an amazon lightning deal for my in-laws https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0764NWFP8 It's been amazing.
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# ? May 15, 2020 15:14 |
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I got a refurb Dell laptop about a year ago, and it's been working fine for me for a while. This morning, however the C drive wasn't recognized. So I opened it up to find a little mSATA chip connected to a SATA adapter, which I've never seen before and don't have any experience working with. After reseating it to no avail, I plugged it into my HDD dock, where it wasn't recognized at all, which really sucks because this is Finals weeks and I was about 90% of the way through a term paper. Has anyone else has this happen to them before? And is the adapter a common/possible point of breakage? Thanks for any and all help, there couldn't have been a worse possible time for this to happen.
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# ? May 15, 2020 15:28 |
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DildenAnders posted:I got a refurb Dell laptop about a year ago, and it's been working fine for me for a while. This morning, however the C drive wasn't recognized. So I opened it up to find a little mSATA chip connected to a SATA adapter, which I've never seen before and don't have any experience working with. After reseating it to no avail, I plugged it into my HDD dock, where it wasn't recognized at all, which really sucks because this is Finals weeks and I was about 90% of the way through a term paper. I suppose it's very possible that the adapter failed, yes. You can get MSATA to USB adapters on amazon or just buy a new MSATA to SATA adapter and hope for the best.
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# ? May 15, 2020 15:42 |
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EssOEss posted:Or just buy a laser. Jfc why would you recommend a sure-to-dry-up inkjet to someone?! If you want anything besides a simple black and white printer it's still tremendously cheaper to buy an inkjet. A full color wireless multifunction inkjet printer + scanner that can print passable photos is $40. Same thing from a laser would be $300+
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# ? May 16, 2020 16:53 |
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imho the specific use case and overall cost of ownership are 2 important factors in buying printers just imho
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# ? May 16, 2020 17:17 |
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To be serious, I was not trolling but simply putting out the options keep in mind that I posted the link to the printer thread and mentioned how annoying it is to maintain an inkjet but I have had a career in a computer repair shop and still have the role of tech support as a minor part of my current position so I can understand how people are unhappy about any kind of inkjet recommendation because it's inadequate for many roles and situations and is the source of a lot of pain for many users and computer touchers
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# ? May 16, 2020 20:08 |
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having said that... if you print color and exclusively color, frequently enough, you might want to get a color printer but in most cases a b&w is good enough but there was very little info from OP so in general the better thing to say is Statutory Ape posted:imho the specific use case and overall cost of ownership are 2 important factors in buying printers just imho
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# ? May 16, 2020 20:11 |
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I want to test a USB key which I think failed at some point but I'm not sure. It's not for anything critical. Is there something like memtest86 for USB keys?
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# ? May 17, 2020 01:11 |
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Trying to install an RX 570 into an HP Z620 workstation. The video card has a 6 pin slot. (circled red) I read about how RX 570s need an 8 pin for the purposes of providing enough power, but maybe that's not true for all of them? The blue circle is around two six pin cables (male and female) plugged in to each other. One comes from the PSU, the other goes behind a panel to parts unknown. Maybe it's not even used, I don't know. Either way, it's about a foot from the card. I'm going to need an extension cable, or maybe a splitter like this to make sure everything's plugged in? Just trying to confirm all of this so I don't blow up my video card immediately. There is basically no manual for this, and extensive googling has produced paltry answers at best.
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# ? May 17, 2020 01:44 |
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Ramrod Hotshot posted:Trying to install an RX 570 into an HP Z620 workstation. Risky. That is probably the 12v aux supply to the CPU (who knows what bizarre reason HP put an extension on it for instead of just having their OEM make a PSU with the cables long enough, probably cost savings and standardization). You may need to invest in an auxiliary power supply just to feed that video card because it will not function without a 6 pin connected. I'd just pull the whole PSU and motherboard out of the case and see if there is an available 6 pin tucked away somewhere (and also verify the PSU has the wattage to even handle the combined system load).
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# ? May 17, 2020 02:22 |
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Indiana_Krom posted:Risky. That is probably the 12v aux supply to the CPU (who knows what bizarre reason HP put an extension on it for instead of just having their OEM make a PSU with the cables long enough, probably cost savings and standardization). You may need to invest in an auxiliary power supply just to feed that video card because it will not function without a 6 pin connected. Christ. Even if I split the 6 pin to feed both the CPU and the video card, that won't do it?
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# ? May 17, 2020 03:40 |
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Ramrod Hotshot posted:Christ. Even if I split the 6 pin to feed both the CPU and the video card, that won't do it? Those are the two most power drawing/spiking things in any computer.
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# ? May 17, 2020 03:48 |
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Ramrod Hotshot posted:Trying to install an RX 570 into an HP Z620 workstation. One of the nice things about nicer workstations is that there's usually a service manual somewhere. You're looking for a power cable labeled "G1." It's hard to tell from your picture, but if that power cable that's circled is labeled "P2" then it's your CPU power supply and shouldn't go to the graphics card. Your power supply should be 800W, so it shouldn't have any issues with that video card and a single CPU even though it's on the old side.
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# ? May 17, 2020 05:10 |
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VelociBacon posted:Those are the two most power drawing/spiking things in any computer. imagine unironically wanting SLI Just imagine the type of sick gently caress that, if the gains would even remotely justify the cost and component stress and heat.. I'm really glad SLI doesn't work tbh, cost: performance has always interested me at both ends of the spectrum lol What's the most wattage running through built in USB PD through computers now? The keeping it around 18 or so or can I do full throttle yet lol
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# ? May 17, 2020 10:51 |
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# ? Apr 24, 2024 20:22 |
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Space Gopher posted:One of the nice things about nicer workstations is that there's usually a service manual somewhere. Thanks. Can't find a part of the manual that details every power cable inside the case, but there is one about installing a PCI card with an auxilliary power cable (auxilliary power supply assumed but not shown ) Is this an indication that an aux PSU is required for a power-hungry graphics card in this system? You say that I should look for a G1, and indeed, this PSU (S10-800P1A) should have two six-pin 18a connectors called G1 and G2. I found G1 (circled yellow), along with a G2, plugging in to the case fan. These are six pins. I guess ideally I could use one of these but they are both plugged in to the fan. Any thoughts on this?
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# ? May 17, 2020 18:36 |