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Side note: I splurged on myself and bought this Wera ratcheting screwdriver and holy poo poo where have ratcheting screwdrivers been all my life?!coathat posted:Milwaukee 12v stuff is aimed at trade professionals not diy users This is true and fair, but I guess what I meant was that the m12 tools generally are more affordable and sometimes slightly less feature-rich (while still being very solid). The Wonder Weapon posted:This is a great post that you made AFTER I already placed an order  Well look at it this way: Use the Ryobis until they break, and then when they do you can buy into a new system when you have a better idea what you need, and if they don't break on you then you've made the right choice!
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May 10, 2020 16:13
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I would almost say invest into a drill driver (a combo on offer) from the prosumer lines and buy Ryobi for ancillary tools for a home gamer and just use adapters. Also the most compatible battery for adapting for the cheap brands is Porter Cable. Ryobi batteries don't have adapters for the other brands because of the shaft. deimos fucked around with this message at 16:38 on May 10, 2020 |
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May 10, 2020 16:36
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So I have a Ryobi lawnmower, and I'm generally happy with it, but after a season of mowing I'd like to take the blade off to be sharpened. Reading the instructions for blade changing, however, I gagged on the final step: tighten the blade nut to 350 lbs. with a torque wrench. I don't own a torque wrench, let alone one that's capable of that kind of force, and even a cheapass (i.e. Harbor Freight) 300-lb wrench is 80 bucks. I would really rather not spend that much on a tool I'm going to use possibly once a year. Is there an alternative? On my old mower (a Neuton), I always retightened the blade with a regular crescent wrench and in a decade of use I never had any trouble with blade looseness.
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May 10, 2020 21:36
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Ryobi is fine for most homeowners. Spend more on pro-level tools if you want (I certainly have), but today's Ryobi is really solid, dirt cheap, and surprisingly feature-packed. They all use the same battery technology, and brushless isn't necessary for anything other than professional uses. You'll be happy with the Ryobi.
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May 10, 2020 21:59
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wesleywillis posted:Lowes is selling craftsman stuff now. Don't know if they'll cover warranty, but you might try your nearest. They do cover craftsman warranty stuff
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May 10, 2020 22:00
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Selachian posted:So I have a Ryobi lawnmower, and I'm generally happy with it, but after a season of mowing I'd like to take the blade off to be sharpened. 350ft-lbs means "make sure that fucker is tight as gently caress" in my book, I wouldn't worry about it if you reef it down with a decent sized lever.
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May 10, 2020 22:02
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Hubis posted:Well look at it this way: Use the Ryobis until they break, and then when they do you can buy into a new system when you have a better idea what you need, and if they don't break on you then you've made the right choice! I think this man is smart and you should listen to his advice. edit: caveat: Ryobi specifically may not be the best baseline to start with specifically because their batteries feature a protrusion on the top. It is comparatively easy to find an X to ryobi adapter but I have not found a ryobi to X adapter. For example, is anyone able to find the inverse of this product: https://www.kecotabs.com/products/surebonder-ryobi-to-makita-adapter ? DreadLlama fucked around with this message at 23:41 on May 10, 2020 |
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May 10, 2020 23:17
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Ryobi is one of the only brands that actually warrants their batteries. (That being said, I'm a huge idiot who went into Hitachi.)
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May 11, 2020 02:19
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~Coxy posted:Ryobi is one of the only brands that actually warrants their batteries. Milwaukee has a 3-year warranty for most of their battery packs (2-years for the cheaper/smaller compact versions.)
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May 11, 2020 02:32
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Selachian posted:So I have a Ryobi lawnmower, and I'm generally happy with it, but after a season of mowing I'd like to take the blade off to be sharpened. Are you sure it's ft-lbs and not inch-lbs? 350 ft-lbs sounds like a crazy high torque spec for something like that, 350 in-lbs is ~30 ft-lbs and much more in line with what I'd expect (and close to what the manual for my EGO mower says...)
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May 11, 2020 02:36
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fralbjabar posted:Are you sure it's ft-lbs and not inch-lbs? 350 ft-lbs sounds like a crazy high torque spec for something like that, 350 in-lbs is ~30 ft-lbs and much more in line with what I'd expect (and close to what the manual for my EGO mower says...) It's 350-400 inch pounds, at least on this one. https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/55/555723c3-174a-455c-9b0e-743b9365087e.pdf
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May 11, 2020 03:19
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Bondematt posted:It's 350-400 inch pounds, at least on this one. 350 inch pounds, is 'snug but not too tight' using a 12" long standard socket wrench. 350 foot-pounds is 'gently caress this poo poo, Larry, go get the cheater bar' because even with a 4 ft fulcrum, you still need to lean into it with 80-odd pounds of force.
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May 11, 2020 04:22
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~Coxy posted:Ryobi is one of the only brands that actually warrants their batteries. I had a DeWalt li-ion completely quit after 1.5 years, called their warranty number and they mailed me a new one. No inspection, no receipt, and told me to take the old one to a recycler.
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May 11, 2020 04:46
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:350 inch pounds, is 'snug but not too tight' using a 12" long standard socket wrench. 350 foot-pounds is 'gently caress this poo poo, Larry, go get the cheater bar' because even with a 4 ft fulcrum, you still need to lean into it with 80-odd pounds of force. Which also begs the question, how big is this bolt? Because even the crank pulley on a LS engine isn't torqued to 350 ftlb and it's a bigass piece of hardware.
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May 11, 2020 05:51
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What is that loving fastener made out of if it can even survive being torqued to 350 ft lbs without snapping the head off?
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May 11, 2020 07:51
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Yeah 350ftlbs is three grunts and a bit of poo, 350inlb is a solid humph at most.
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May 11, 2020 08:05
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kid sinister posted:What is that loving fastener made out of if it can even survive being torqued to 350 ft lbs without snapping the head off? 3/4 grade 8 and up
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May 11, 2020 08:09
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kid sinister posted:What is that loving fastener made out of if it can even survive being torqued to 350 ft lbs without snapping the head off? Anything that's bigger around than your dick is. Some 2" oil derrick fittings want 1200 ft-lbs of torque, which requires a special hydraulic torque multiplier tool. Which also costs more than your dick can earn in a month of Sundays.
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May 11, 2020 09:54
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:. Which also costs more than your dick can earn in a month of Sundays. Maybe his dick, but not mine.
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May 11, 2020 11:38
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Truck/RV wheels start getting up there with class 6+. I think a lot of them are 400+.
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May 11, 2020 17:06
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I'd like to remove the factory paint from some car wheels. Are paint strippers that claim to be able to remove epoxy and polyurethane basically the same across brands? Any recommended brands? Alternately I could have them media blasted or do a bunch of sanding e: I found a partial jug of methylene chloride, which was banned from paint strippers. Does that mean it's really good stuff? taqueso fucked around with this message at 20:35 on May 11, 2020 |
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May 11, 2020 17:23
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https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/makita-xsr01pt-18v-circular-saw-kit Pretty great deal here if you are in the Makita family. It's 4 batteries and a saw/charger for $250. I'm so torn on whether to get this. I don't love my current circ saw, but I have no experience with the rear-handle saws and don't know if I'd like it.
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May 11, 2020 23:41
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/makita-xsr01pt-18v-circular-saw-kit It really depends on your needs. If you're cutting a lot of sheet goods freehand it's easier to cut straight with a rear handle saw, it's more stable. The added power with 36v helps with 3/4" plywood especially. If you bevel cut or rip 2x material with any regularity, the 7.25" blade is better than the 6.5" on the 18v. Don't know if your current circ saw is an 18v Makita, but I love that saw due to its light weight and ease of use. I'm mostly cutting 2x4s, 2x6s and 1x trim though. For 2x12 stringers and plywood/MDF, I'm not sure the corded Skil Mag77 can be beat.
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May 12, 2020 00:34
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socketwrencher posted:It really depends on your needs. If you're cutting a lot of sheet goods freehand it's easier to cut straight with a rear handle saw, it's more stable. The added power with 36v helps with 3/4" plywood especially. If you bevel cut or rip 2x material with any regularity, the 7.25" blade is better than the 6.5" on the 18v. This is great info, thank you. My current saw is the 18v (not brushless) makita, and it bogs down sometimes when ripping plywood. It also chews batteries. I usually use my miter saw for cutting 2x's. I was thinking of getting this mostly because of the 4 batteries and dual charger. Those would both be handy. Wish I had a buyer for my saw lined up, then I'd probably take the plunge.
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May 12, 2020 00:39
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:This is great info, thank you. My current saw is the 18v (not brushless) makita, and it bogs down sometimes when ripping plywood. It also chews batteries. Yeah the 18v isn't so good with plywood. The two extra 5.0 Ah batteries make this a killer deal. Resistance is futile!
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May 12, 2020 00:55
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Does a saw with 2 18v batteries not get obnoxiously heavy?
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May 12, 2020 02:35
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taqueso posted:I'd like to remove the factory paint from some car wheels. Are paint strippers that claim to be able to remove epoxy and polyurethane basically the same across brands? Any recommended brands? Is that how it's labeled? It's always so odd seeing chemical names used in one industry differently than others, like HCl. My godfather blasts his from what I recall but apparently other folks do strip or burn off powder coats. DCM is the same stuff in aircraft stripper afaik and will probably give you an awful oxide patina you'll have to polish off aluminium wheels, but should be fine in Theory. Give it all a good wash first to clear any possible aluminium chloride and test a spot, but do note it's pretty volatile so don't be breathing it and don't get it into open wounds.
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May 12, 2020 03:01
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It's labeled "Ace Remover, Adhesive" On the back it says "contains methylene chloride, cannot be make non-toxic". I wrote methylene chloride on the front and circled that bit on the back so I probably bought it specifically because it is dcm. Or maybe because I thought it was scary
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May 12, 2020 03:31
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:This is great info, thank you. My current saw is the 18v (not brushless) makita, and it bogs down sometimes when ripping plywood. It also chews batteries. Make sure you're matching the cutting depth to the material, even if nothing is under the cut it makes a difference in performance of the saw and prevents deflection which may be the cause of your bogging down.
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May 12, 2020 04:04
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Pressure washer question. Selling a house. I need to quickly refinish a deck. I would also like to clean the siding, driveway, and cement path at the side of the house. I'm already scraping the peeling paint on the deck so the pressure washer would be more for a good cleaning before painting than it would be for stripping the old paint. I have the choice between a 1400 PSI electric unit for $200 and a 2500 PSI gas unit for $550. How much PSI do I actually need? The gas one seems like overkill but I don't want to be considering an upgrade a year from now because the 1400 PSI one doesn't cut it. I don't anticipate the corded-ness of the electric washer being an issue for me but also who knows.
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May 12, 2020 04:09
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just another posted:Pressure washer question. Doing big jobs with an electric one takes a long time. Maybe consider renting a gas one? And if you are doing decks/driveways what about those surface cleaning heads that does like 12 or 18 inches at a time? Like this kind of thing https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-18-in-Surface-Cleaner-for-Gas-Pressure-Washers-Rated-up-to-3700-PSI-DXPW37SC/310460885
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May 12, 2020 04:48
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I live in a podunk town so no rentals available, unfortunately. Closest rental is maybe ~6 hours away. I was watching some reviews of those heads on Youtube, they seem nifty.
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May 12, 2020 05:25
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/makita-xsr01pt-18v-circular-saw-kit Great deal, thanks for the heads up!
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May 12, 2020 05:29
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If you're going to do more than a few square metres (yards?) of driveway and pathways then you are absolutely going to want the gas powered washer. Cleaning surfaces like that is all about trying to get the widest nozzle that actually removes the dirt and grime. You will be able to clean the surface effectively with the electric washer but you will be on the narrowest possible spray. I once did this, and it took literal days.
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May 12, 2020 05:45
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deimos posted:Truck/RV wheels start getting up there with class 6+. I think a lot of them are 400+. Yeah, this. My work trucks, when we get work done to them, if the wheels come off, we'll get a card saying "bring this poo poo back to retorque (whichever wheels were removed) to XXX torque. Usually 400-450 ftlbs. Guy brings out a torque wrench and torques them bitches down. Its usually a pretty big wrench, but its not huge. The trucks are Hinos, from 268 to 338 in size.
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May 12, 2020 11:48
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Bob Mundon posted:*Edit*. These ok for a starting point? I've got a kit like that, and I've had the bearing on one of the bits come apart on me while using it, but otherwise they've been fine. Plus, the bearings are mostly interchangeable, so it's not a huge deal.
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May 13, 2020 13:39
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n0tqu1tesane posted:I've got a kit like that, and I've had the bearing on one of the bits come apart on me while using it, but otherwise they've been fine. At least two of the bearings let go on my cheap-ish set that had lots of stars on Amazon. Depending on what you're doing, that could ruin your workpiece.
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May 13, 2020 16:42
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Dielectric posted:At least two of the bearings let go on my cheap-ish set that had lots of stars on Amazon. Depending on what you're doing, that could ruin your workpiece. Loctite on the little allen screw that holds the bearing on helps.
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May 13, 2020 18:07
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I have a Pace ADS200 and absolutely love it, but now I find myself in need of a desoldering tool. I have to remove the keys from 4 full sized keyboards. 2 tabs per key. 104 keys per keyboard. That's 832 points I have to desolder. Is there a tool or (attachment for my existing station) that's up to the task? Preferably one that won't make me want to just stab myself in the eye with the finest Pace cartridge tip?
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May 13, 2020 18:13
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I had an 80s Pace desoldering station (PPS-5) and recently replaced it with a Hakko FR-301 when I was no longer able to source tips for it. The little Hakko works gangbusters for PCBs of all kinds. The Japanese models on eBay are a lot cheaper than if you buy them here.
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May 13, 2020 19:09
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